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About sourdoughjim

  • Birthday 08/28/1952

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    Pe Ell WA
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    BP Revolvers, Coins, Books

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  1. I don't own any "cowboy" cartridge guns. Most of you "cowboy" folks are reliving TV/Hollywood westerns with your cartridge guns and buscadero rigs. When the Civil War ended, many ex-soldiers and ex-slaves went to Texas in the mid-to-latter part of the 1860's-early 1870's where there were lots of wild cattle and no Single Action Army guns. This is what the cowboys might have carried, among other cap and ball revolvers. Regards, Jim
  2. Education is important, but being a cowboy is importanter.
  3. You would also have to bend the upper tang downward. Regards, Jim
  4. Scout, I cannot imagine that your friend's 1860 Army grip assembly is from an original 1860. If, upon comparing the fit on a Pietta (frames of the 1851/1860/1861 are identical at the rear) and it works, I have a Pietta 1851 Navy 3-piece grip assembly on a 4-screw cut-for-shoulder-stock frame that would like to swap out for the longer 1860 Army assembly. I would like to trade straight across for your friend's assembly. Taylor's and VTI don't give those things away. The Navy trigger guard is flush with the bottom of the mainspring, while the Army trigger guard locates the mainspring higher up. Both use the same mainspring. I am not a SASS member so I can't advertise that in the classified section. If interested, please email me with photos. Regards, Jim jspadberg@centurytel.net
  5. Thanks for the kind response! I am glad that you found the literature interesting, as have I. I am not a SASS member, nor am I a CAS guy. I enjoy viewing posts on the SASS Wire that concern guns and not the posts that concern all the rules and aspects of your sport. These years I am primarily interested in replica BP Colt-type revolvers from all manufacturers (Uberti, Pietta, Armi San Marco, Armi San Paolo, etc.), new and old, no matter the type/model. I tend to stay away from the Colt 2nd and 3rd Gen revolvers, only because they are far more expensive to collect as shooters. I can see from other posts here that others on the SASS Wire have similar attachments toward cartridge Colts for collector purposes which drives the prices for such items very high, and they don't want to shoot them because of that. To me, guns are tools, and I only own one replica revolver that qualifies as a collector item: it is a Pietta 1862 J.H. Dance & Brothers .36 of which only 35 were produced in 1996, and I don't shoot it. (Photo below.) The Italian factories don't produce perfectly functioning revolvers as a rule because they are created for the masses who shoot them and really don't care if they could function better. They are priced cost effectively so that folks like me can do a better job than the factory can because I have a lot of (retired) time on my hands. Thanks to the mods here that continue to allow me to post as a Guest. Regards, Jim
  6. I did not advise tapering the sides of the bolt, just the top. Here is a photo: Remove the cylinder, blacken the entire portion of the bolt that protrudes through the frame, replace the cylinder, and cycle the revolver a couple dozen times, remove the cylinder, and look at the bolt to see where it is hitting the cylinder/stop slots. Regards, Jim
  7. Your cylinder overtravel problem when "shooting fast" is due to the fact that the bolt head does not fit the cylinder stop slots correctly. It is too wide, as is evident on 3 of the 4 guns (second from the top seems OK) because you can see where the bolt is contacting both sides of the stop slot when entering it upon firing the revolver. It is an easy fix by removing just enough of the bolt "head" (that portion of the bolt that sits above the frame at full cock or hammer down positions: do not remove any material below that as that area rides in the bolt slot of the frame) on the left side. You can even give that side a very slight taper at the top to guide the bolt into the slot, but do not remove any material from the right side, as that is what locks the cylinder in line with the barrel bore. Your thick grease idea to slow down the cylinder rotation, if it works, just slows down the rotation movement of the cylinder on the arbor, which is not helping you in the long run. It happens a lot with Pietta C&B Navies/Armies but not so much with Ubertis. Pietta has the proper fit of the bolt to the frame slot, but needs fitting above the frame. Uberti bolts have a bit looser frame slot fit but have the proper head configuration above the frame. Don't take my word for it. Pettifogger (over 12 years ago) published the basic standard for tuning Pietta and Uberti revolvers, to include 1873 clones. Download the .pdf files for the Pietta 2-part series and the Uberti 4-part series. Save the files on your machine because they have been lost online before. It's free: https://archive.org/download/PettiFogger_Files/TOR Posts pdf/ I am in the process of doing the same with a 30-year-old Pietta 1851 Navy .36 that some Bubba used his trusty files and ineptness on both the bolt and the hand. New parts to be fitted, and the old stuff goes into the trash can. Happy gunsmithing! Regards, Jim
  8. I find that to be just the opposite, at least for C&B revolver parts.
  9. Very good video. Pietta used to have a rep for poorly fitting guns, and the statement made by A. Pietta that they used to have different manufacturers supply some of the parts for Pietta guns rings very true. ~2000-2001 Pietta went to CNC machining, making all of their own parts, and never looked back. I can only speak towards Pietta C&B revolvers (I have 8 Navies of various flavors: mostly Confederates), and the newer CNC guns have parts interchangeability like Lego pieces. Pietta revolvers made prior to 2000 are not like that. I currently have a Pietta 1851 Navy .36 steel 4-screw frame cut for shoulder stock (date code AZ/1990) that I bought for a VERY good price because it didn't function. I replaced the bolt and hand with newer CNC parts ($13) but had to hand fit those to the older gun's measurements. (Also, the hammer face has a "safety pin" notch but there are no pins on the rear of the cylinder!) That might be something that folks want to keep in mind when buying an older, used gun with problems. Regards, Jim
  10. Armi San Marco Colt 1860 Army 4-Screw cut for shoulder stock with Uberti full-fluted cylinder and ASM round engraved cylinder, Pietta Colt Type 3 shoulder stock, Colt type powder flask, Colt type 2-cavity (ball and conical) bullet mould, Colt type L-shaped nipple wrench, Eley cap tin (pillbox), and fitted case. It took about a year to acquire it all, piece by piece.
  11. H. K. Uriah, If you have a spare orphan 1873 trigger guard, backstrap, and grip lying around, you should be able to fit this Pietta shoulder stock to your 3-screw revolver. The frame does not need to be cut for a shoulder stock and does not need the "4th screw" extensions. It utilizes a different hammer screw with extensions on each side, available from VTI. EMF sells the stock for $275: https://www.emf-company.com/store/pc/1851-NAVY-SHOULDER-STOCK-229p1196.htm I have a Pietta 1851 Navy 4-screw cut for shoulder stock that uses the Colt Type 3 stock: Regards, Jim
  12. Birdgun, This is my newest Pietta acquisition. Part of a special run of J.H. Dance .36 revolvers made in 1996, commissioned by Tony Gajewski. This one is S/N C00013 of 47 guns marked the same: DANCE FIREARMS CO. - ANGLETON TEXAS . I just took delivery of it an hour ago so this is the only photo I have so far. $300 plus $25 shipping. Info on these guns: https://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,32403.0/nowap.html Regards, Jim
  13. Birdgun Quail, Very nice revolver. I very much like the wood, much better than the standard quarter-sawn lumber that they usually come with. The case is nice, also. Congrats! Regards, Jim
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