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Posts posted by Red Cent
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No brag, just fact.
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There is a man in West Virginia who loves SASS kids and has a big reputation for doing everything from giving kids rifles (all 1873s) to fixing them free, even if he did not work on it before. The kids he has set up with rifles are a lot bigger now and he may know of a deal.
Call:
Don Jones
aka
Cody Conagher
For all he has done for SASS, he should be in the Hall of Fame.
By the way, he and Lone Dude invented the short stroke. Hell, I was there.
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Up to three things is/are broke.
That is a schematic of a single action. Look at #12. That is the bolt/cylinder stop. There are two legs sticking back. One of those legs rides on protuberance on the other side of the hammer. It is a cam and as the hammer is cocked it raises a back leg causing the bolt to pivot and drop down and release the cylinder. The cam like protuberance is shaped so that just before the cylinder indentation gets to the bolt, the leg falls of the cam and the bolt pops up and stops the cylinder.
Since the bolt will not drop I will cross off #19 (trigger and bolt spring) since it seems it is doing its job. One of the legs on the thing we used to call a stirrup is broke or the cam is worn.
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SASS brass needs to be cleaned just enough to rid it of grit and grime. The stuff our brass lands in will scratch the interior of the die. I have never deprimed mine before cleaning. Any hand press has the power to overcome the carbon and should seat with a firm push unless the press is not rock solid. Any give when seating the prime will remove the power to seat the primer.
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Lone Rider, I have won three or four Senior and/or Silver Senior badges and I don't remember having to buy them. Man, do I miss going up there. The Singing Ranch stages will give you a work out. They wouldn't let me bring the golf cart.
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Most holster makers will not make a SOB.
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John Boy, the 38-55 by SSAMI dimensions never had a throat and the area where the throat should be is too big. Many 38-55 shooters claim that if you "fix" it it will only get worse.
I am aware that Manson Reamers sell a 38-55 McPherson reamer which McPherson says will make the 38-55 a shooter if you cut back the barrel and re-chamber.
Ever see this? This chamber accommodates the long brass.
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I get on JM Brown for not wearing his. Hell, I would find somewhere to hang 5-6 National Championship titles and 5-6 World Championship titles.
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Just don't list all your accomplishments on your profile. They b...........gripe about using bandwidth or some other such crap.
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I struggle with choices.
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May I add my favorite? Not tryin' to blaspheme. I love their "smooth" blended harmony.
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http://stores.leeshavergunsmithing.com/
Outstanding sights. The $225.00 economy Soule is great. Add front globe with level for $85.00.
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uh oh. I bet you run around with those folks at High Country. Met Otter yet?
Welcome to the best fun you can find.
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And to get it really interesting: After you have sanded, wetted the wood and raised the hairs for final sanding, you need to get some ArmorAll along with the TruOil. Spray the stock lightly with ArmorAll. Tip the bottle of TruOil to wet down the tips of the three middle fingers and rub on the TruOil lightly. The TruOil should "harden"/ "dry" up quickly. Continue until you have done the stock and fore end. After you get through, you should be able to start with another coat.
Like a lot of other things in the world, we make startling discoveries. And yes, it works. The '73 in the picture was refinished using the method described. And I have done others.
No, I did not discover it. I did discover this article. First, for those who don't read the whole article:)
"Armor All (yes, the kind you use on tires and your dashboard) will cause Tru oil to harden almost immediately and bond to the coat beneath it. I would spray into my hand and rub the whole stock down with just the film on my hands. It does, however, dull the finish just slightly so don't do this for final finsh. It helped for the wiping on/off phase to get the nice translucence."
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331108
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SS, barrels should not be tightened that much in any receiver.
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Get a can of Strypeeze. You can remove all the finish in less than an hour. Also get a small bottle of TruOil. Read up on TruOil and stock refinishing. Time consuming but not difficult.
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I would think any gunsmith would replace a barrel. It ain't like the 'smith is guaranteeing the Henry to run fast and reliable. At the worst he buys a Green Mountain barrel, has the 'smith cut the tenon and screw it onto the receiver. Any other cuts is a piece of cake.
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The dollars were all over the place. No way you could have used them to rank the movies. For instance:
#75 - Blackthorn
Smart Rating: 80.65
Release Year: 2011
Inflation-Adjusted U.S. Box Office Earnings: $210,357#79 - Quigley Down Under
Smart Rating: 80.18
Release Year: 1990
Inflation-Adjusted U.S. Box Office Earnings: $36,426,200Quigley next to last!!??? Balderdash!!!!
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Who and how did they came up with their rated choices. Boy, do they need some SASS advisors to get it right.
http://movies.prettyfamous.com/stories/19384/best-western-films-wayne-eastwood
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Look in the dictionary under warthog. There is a picture there of........
Value of Black Diamond 97
in SASS Wire
Posted · Edited by Red Cent
I would guess $1500.00 to $2000.00 for the extra barrel and gun. I would guess $1500.00 for the single gun. One has to assume that based on the exterior the guts are in great condition.