Hawkeye Kid
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Posts posted by Hawkeye Kid
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Thanks for all the advice and potential places to have this repaired.
I was about 90% ready to go down the DIY route - when Johnny Meadows offer to do the repair at a reasonable cost.
Fairly sure I could have made the repair - but nothing is worse than being at a match 1,000+ miles from home and having a gun break with no backup.
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Struck out with the local smiths in CT. FYI: Gunsmithing LTD is out of business.
The DIY route is about $74 for solder and flux, $17 for some iron rods and maybe instead of using iron wire copper wire plus some wet to rags.
Unfortunately, Briley wants the complete gun - price is somewhere between $175 to $200+ without rebluing barrel. 4+ weeks turnaround time.
Guess I will have to break out the back-up that has been standing in the safe for the last 10 years.
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17 hours ago, SGT. ELI 35882 GUNFIGHTER said:
My friend just had his done, $80 soldered.
Do you know who did the work? Contact information would be great.
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Brownell’s Hi-Force 44 solder is out of stock. Would the 4% silver, 96% tin solder sold for electronic use be the same?
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Never had good experience with JB weld.
$300 seems outrageous for this repair. Looks like the lug is silver solder in place. Very little material on the part and in the wedge where it fits.
May try the sleeve once it’s repair. TN Mongo where did you get yours? -
Back from The Last Stand in Florida. Great shoot, stages were ideal with target placement and movement by the way.
Anyways, cleaning the guns today, when it became the shotgun’s turn the lug the forearm attaches to the barrel came off. Does any one know Is this silver solder on? Guess if I can find a local welder or gunsmith they should be able to repair. Heading to the SW Regional in Fort Smith on the 23rd anyone out there who can do the repair that day?
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Any scores for the Black Powder and Wild Bunch matches?
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Back at the range again today. 100 rounds without a problem firing slow and as fast as I could go.
Next project is to install a short stroke kit.Thanks for all the suggestions.
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No factory ammo. Only light cowboy loads all at 1.58 LOA.
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Took two trips to the range. Working about 95% of the time still get an occasional jam. Little jiggle of lever, jam round will cycle.
Little more filing and polishing should be good to go.
Was a lot more than expected to getting this rifle to work.
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Took a lot of metal off to make the ramp. Seems to work with a few test rounds. Off to the range to really test.
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There’s no clearance between the back of the gate and lifter arm to add a shim to make the loading spoon longer. Maybe something could be fabricated to fit inside the spoon, but not on back side
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Some new photos of the issue.
First is a 73, note how the loading gate tab fills the space between the frame.
Second photo is the 1860 without loading gate. The jam is when round bounces over the right side of frame.
Third photo is with loading gate. The void on the left is not filled compared to the 73,
Fourth photo is the loading gate.
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Not going to work, when cycling the carrier hit the extension.
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Loading gate installed.
Not sure how well JB Weld and plastic will hold up, will give it a try tomorrow at the range.
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Not that I can determine. Rifle was sold as new never fired.
Iam trying out Jack Slade’s suggest on adding some material to extend loading ramp. J B weld a piece of plastic that may stop round from bouncing over frame stop.
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Need so good advice on fixing a cartridge jam when cycling the rifle. This jam does not occur on the first round it happens intermittently on the second or third or ….
The first photo with loading gate removed for clarity, shows how the cartridge should feed from magazine tube to the carrier.
Second & third photo is the jam where the rim of the cartridge pops up over the frame (part circled in black in first photo) and jams when cycling lever.Tried filling a ramp on the mortise, only willing to go so far removing metal.
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One more time
BTT
Model P or Lightning in .32WCF?
in SASS Wire
Posted
I have a Colt and USFA both 5.5 inch barrels. Bullet is about same weight as a 38, load l use 2.3 Trail Boss, feels about same under match conditions as Ruger 38s. The best load is full case of 2F with a big lube 115g bullet.
If I ever learn how to shoot with two hands on one revolver , I would use them more often.