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Showing results for tags 'schofield'.
Found 10 results
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so i’ve had a schofield for about a year now, i love it to death. but something started happening as of recently, whenever i shoot it the latch unhinges and it opens up. i can’t find any information as to why this is happening, or any fixes, i figured it might be the latch spring but i just need help. (ps i know not to use here loads, i load all of my bullets and i stick to low velocity loads.) IMG_7939.mov
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I've owned this, my only Schofield, for about a year now. I have a few other 45 Colts, and I had issues that I traced to the throats on the cylinders on some. To remedy I bought a reamer and gave them all a "tune up". I left the Schofield to the last, I wanted to hone my skills before doing this one. I set up the tool and unlike the throats on my other guns, the reamer pilot dropped right through. I steadied the back of the reamer in the chamber and reamed the last quarter inch of the throat. All the throats were the same, which I found rather odd. But even odder was that the chamber was a bit of an oddity as well. There is no defined end to the chamber. The chamber is normal for the length of the brass, then it gently tapers to the end. It has me puzzled and I'm wondering if I just changed a designed in feature. I've not test fired it yet, but I can't see it being any worse for leading the forcing cone and first part of the rifling than it did before I reamed the last bit. Was the blended/tapered chamber a thing? Or is it just Uberti copying a worn out Schofield Cylinder? Or was someone in there before me? I'm tempted to just shoot 45 S&W in it, with the sloping funnel like throat, I cant see it building up much of a crud ring. BB
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I transitioned from Cowboy Fast Draw to SASS in 2019 which meant that I was the proud owner of a new Vaquero 45 Colt. Having never shot a sass match I decided to get a matching revolver and a rifle in the same caliber. I can see the advantages of shooting 38s now but am not willing to change after being this invested. Has anyone used 45 Schofield in a Marlin 1894 or new Vaquero? I'm just wondering if I may be able to run my rifle a little faster and save on some powder to boot. I cast my own bullets and reload so factory ammo cost is not going to be an issue.
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I am looking for Burl Walnut Grips with gold feathers running through them for a Uberti Schofield in .44-40. Seen the grips wanted on a used .38sp Schofield at a Columbus, Ohio gun show, but $950+ was too much to pay to get the grips.. No idea who made them. Anyone know of makers that would be making grips like that. If you could I would like names and contact information for some good grip makers.
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I decided to try making a pair of 1/8” thick rubber inserts to place under the grips on my Beretta Laramies, so that the grips better fill my large hands. The original grip screw, which apparently is called a fillister screw, is approximately 1” long, so I’ll need to find a pair that are 1 1/4” long. The problem is that I don’t know the TPI - it appears to be a fine thread, and most likely is more than the 32 TPI one finds at the hardware store. Brownells only lists the 1” length, as do Taylors and a couple other vendors, and when we called Brownells, they had no clue what the TPI was, let alone the diameter. Anyone here who would happen to know, or can offer tips on how to find out?
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I find the factory wood grips on my Beretta Laramie top-break revolvers to be a bit skinny for my size Large hands, so I’d like to find a maker of custom grips who can produce a thicker pair. I found Tombstone Gun Grips, and his work looks good, but they’re a polyurethane resin epoxy, and I’d like grips made from a wood with a distinctive grain / appearance. Anyone know of such a maker?
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Does anyone know of a gunsmith that would be able to do an action job on Uberti Schofields?
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Does anyone reload 45 Schofield on a Dillon XL650 with case feeder? The caliber conversion kit available is for 45 Colt / 454 Cassull. Before I buy the $80 kit, I would like to know if it will feed the shorter Schofield brass. Many thanks in advance. Claude
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Just got a pair of Schofields from another shooter. Was able to shoot one of them since I dropped the other at a holster maker to be patterned. I have no idea how the other shoots, or if it even shoots! The question is since I have no experience with one; Is the primer strike acceptable to be off center? I know the suggestion is to use Federal primers, since I use Winchesters! But, I had a few misfires. They would go off after the second hit. I only had maybe 3 misfires out of 50 rounds. I removed the grips and side plate, and it was quite dirty inside. I cleaned it all up, and lubed the moving parts. I haven't shot it yet to see if that improved it or not! Another thing is the barrel hinge bolt/screw will not loosen. It will just turn, and the back up nut will not remain locked down, so I figure the tab has been twisted off. Any suggestions on holding the head while in-screwing the screw? And one more thing! Under the grip at the main spring tensioner screw, there is a piece of plastic pinched between the screw, and the spring! Is this a modification to make the main spring stiffer? Thanks in advance for any insights! Pp
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Howdy Cowpokes, I'm strongly considering picking up some Schofields but want to hear first from the voices of experience. 1. Why are they so much more expensive? Are they better guns or just cost more to manufacture? 2. Is it possible to get them "slicked up" or buy them race ready. 3. Has anyone used them and had problems /disliked them for any reason? I look forward to your feed back. S/F Moe T Vator
