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Greetings from Brazil! Just a little bit of context: I am saving money for my first handgun. Due to firearms surcharge promoted by years of a leftist government and disarmament laws adopted by my country, it is very difficult and expensive for a citizen to purchase firearms and practice in the range. So my doubt is: Knowing that semi auto pistols are far more expensive than double action and single revolvers in Brazil, would you recommend single action revolvers for home defense? Thank you all and sorry for my bad English.

Tuned with Jeweled Trigger, hammer and cylinder by Griner GUNWORKS. Model Number: 5134 Caliber: 45 Colt GripsBlack Checkered Front SightBlade Barrel Length5.50" MaterialStainless Steel Capacity6 Rear SightIntegral Twist1:16" RH FinishHigh-Gloss Stainless Overall Length11.12" Weight40 oz. Grooves6 CA ApprovedN/A MA Approved & CertifiedYes Suggested Retail$1699.00 not tuned Traditional western-style, hand-filling grip has long been acknowledged as one of the most comfortable and natural pointing of any grip style. Patented reverse indexing pawl allows for easier loading and unloading, while the traditional beveled cylinder simplifies holstering. Patented transfer bar mechanism and loading gate interlock provide an unparalleled measure of security against accidental discharge. Handsome, larger crescent-shaped ejector rod head boasts traditional form, perfect for every cowboy or cowgirl. Cold hammer-forged barrel results in ultra-precise rifling that provides exceptional accuracy, longevity and easy cleaning. Montado-style hammer Black, checkered grips feature SASS® logo. Comes in a two-gun consecutive serial number set with "SASS" prefix (Ex: SASS00007 and SASS00008, shipped together in same, commemorative case). Please go to evilroy.com or call us at 970-385-4141. Thank you!

Looking to get into cowboy action shooting and I would like to buy a single action revolver in .357mag/.38 SPL. I am looking for a deal as I am on a budget. Really hoping for something fairly local (Lexington, SC). If it has any modifications already made to it, that is a plus. Thanks so much! -Max

After reading a previous post - "returning pistol to leather" (return to leather or get a P) I need more guidance. Scenario - Shooter shoots first pistol ... thinks one round didn't go off and goes around the world in an attempt to expend the unfired round. When the round does not fire (and not really sure where the unfired round is) the shooter declares "it's broke" ... grounds the pistol on the shooting platform/table in front of them then proceeds to shoot the second pistol and the balance of the stage. Considering - Malfunctioning firearms still containing rounds will not warrant penalties so long as the malfunction is declared and the firearm is made safe. P27 SHB Version 22.3 As long as an unfired round if found there is no "P" but Is laying it on the table considered "made safe"??

While preparing for this Saturday's match with the Lake County Pistoleros, I have been trying several different techniques for loading my New Model Ruger Vaqueros using snap caps. When I shot my very first match last month, I opened the loading gate, loaded five (5) rounds in consecutive chambers, closed the loading gate, and then spun the cylinder to ensure there were no raised primers that would prevent the cylinder from rotating, and then set the open chamber under the hammer. I found myself having to re-spin the cylinder several time before I could align the open chamber under the hammer. One of my posse members who was manning the loading table, suggested that I load one round in the first chamber, rotate the cylinder to the next chamber without placing a round in it, and then rotate the cylinder again, and load four (4) rounds in the remaining consecutive chambers. After the last round was loaded, pulling the hammer back with your thumb while gently pulling the trigger, rotated the cylinder one more time, lowing the hammer on the now empty chamber. Practicing this at home, I found that I could easily load the revolver much quicker, and almost always have the hammer on the empty chamber. (Practicing so that at the LT in a match it will ALWAYS be on an empty chamber). Another member of my posse, did not recommend this method, as it did not enable you to spin the cylinder to check for possible raised primers. Later I was told by another posse member that he loads and spins all of his ammo at home before a match to ensure there are no raised primers, which made sense. Taking the time to do it before a match would allow you to use the load one, skip, load four method. I will be using this method this weekend and I have already checked my ammo supply for raised primers. My question in this thread is to find out what method you use to load your revolvers: Method 1: Load five (5) rotate cylinder to place hammer on empty chamber; Method 1A: With Vaqueros load 5, spin to check for high primers, roll revolver to the right side so you can see the case heads in the cylinder, stop the cylinder with the empty chamber just shy of under the hammer, close loading gate and finish rotation, empty chamber should be under hammer. (Courtesy of Randy Saint Eagle) Method 1B: Take out the spring loaded pawl button(or have someone do it for you), you will then have a free spin gun. The cylinder will rotate in either direction when the loading gate is open. You can then load five consecutive rounds, turning the cylinder backwards/counter clockwise (passing each round by the recoil shield), ending up on an empty chamber and you will know right away if you have any high primer issues. (Courtesy of Fireball) Method 2: Load one, skip next chamber, load four (4), cock and drop hammer on empty chamber; Method 3: Something different that either of the above...... As always, I appreciate your input.

So being the good husband that I am, I was going to clean my wife's new-only-shot-once Cimarron Lightning revolvers, and found out the hard way that these things have a base pin that only works one way. The base pin has dimples on only one side that the base pin spring goes over. To help with making sure you orient the base pin correctly, the top of the base pin is flat in one spot. You must have that flat part against the barrel of the revolver. It is very easy to accidentally turn the base pin as you're sliding it into the cylinder, and that's what happened to me. By the time I had this figured out, both revolvers were stuck. To fix it, I removed the base pin screw/spring to make my life easier, then gently tapped the base pin out a bit to free the top of it that had gotten stuck against the barrel. I then carefully made sure I slid the base pin back in correctly, and I was back in business. Flat top of base pin: Beveled part that goes over the spring:

So I'm finally at the point where I'll soon be finishing out my four main guns for CAS. I currently have a Ruger Vaquero .357 Stainless that has a regular plow handle grip. I'm buying another Ruger, but I was toying with the idea of getting a Bisley one instead since it has a lowered hammer. I shoot two-handed, so I'm concerned that the different grip styles would hurt my accuracy or times. Does anyone shoot with revolvers that have different grip styles? Would it be better to get a plow handle model and then later on change out the hammer to a lower style? Is that easy to do?

I have a slightly used Traditions/Pietta pistol in .45 long colt with a 4 5/8" barrel for sale. Used in less than 10 matches. No holster wear though there is some marking around the cylinder notches (shown in pictures) but overall it is great gun. I have had zero issues with it, just trying to switch over to .38. Price is $350 but I'll cover shipping to your ffl provided they will accept shipments from private individuals. Will meet in person around Indianapolis area for $325. These are the pictures. https://www.dropbox.com/s/r1pwr9zig9d9s5f/2015-06-21%2015.52.46.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/c9u0xf2xo4istp8/2015-06-21%2015.53.10.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/jdr1wkygu0u0xd3/2015-06-21%2015.54.02.jpg?dl=0 First person with the money will get it and you can pm me with questions. Thanks, Stu

I'm planning to get a cap & ball revolver soon and I was hoping to get advice on how to accurately load it. I am blind and the only problem I think I will have is loading the appropriate amount of powder. Any advice is appreciated.

I have a revolver with no markings, all it has is a Ser# in the 8000's. It kind of looks like a Lemat. I was wanting to post a photo but I don't know how. Can someone tell me how to post a photo? Then maybe we can identify this revolver. Thank you, Mike