Rancid Loosehammer
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Posts posted by Rancid Loosehammer
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Weeeeeeell... I'd like to fire them.
I'm considering the .44 as a SHTF trunk gun. I could get full house loads and not worry about accidentally stuffing one into my .45LC '73 - and scattering it's pretty guts all over creation. And the 44 will go well with my Suppah Blackhawk.
Say "Hay" to IS for us!
I have a Marlin 1894P (16" ported barrel, butt pad)(They don't make 'em any more) in .44 mag. That stubby little bugger is one awesome little rifle! When it goes off you know it, but it doesn't hurt you ... I call it "just a little snotty". I have a Leupold 4X9 scope on it in Mil Spec quick-release lever rings. What is awesome about it is its accuracy. From a sandbag rest I can consistently bust shotgun clays @ 100 yards, and then consistently bust up the shards that are left over. No kidding. I LOVE that little rifle. I have a nylon sling on it that holds 20 rounds of spare ammo, and a nylon ammo thingie on the butt that holds another 10. It's a grab it, toss it in the back seat and go affair. And it actually looks rather "tactical" and "mean".
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What abot the average John Doe, that goes out and spends $1200.00 on a rifle, for pleasure and hunting...is his rifle going to work when he needs it most, or as a dealer, is someone going to stand there and tell him for day to day usage, it should have another severral hundred put into it, on top of the 1200.00 original price tag? I know that would scare me right out of a purchase right there!
Granted, it can be made better by a Cowboy Gunsmith, but is it NECESSARY, for the guy that gets to go shoot only once , or twice a month.Say, it IS in the plans, but budget wise, it would be 6 months down the road....will he still have a reliable, if not as smooth and quick a rifle? RELIABLE being the key word.
Hmm. Do you want it for SASS shooting, or hunting, or both?
I have a Rossi Puma 1892 44 mag, and a Uberti 1873 44 Special. Both have been slicked up. Both are perfectly adequate for SASS and the '73 is about as good as you can get for SASS. But NEITHER are really accurate enough for hunting in my humble opinion. For a rifle to be accurate enough for hunting, in my book at least, it had better put a full magazine into one ragged hole @ 25 yards. Neither of these two guns will do that. On the other hand, I also have a Marlin 1894P 44 mag (16" ported barrel with good butt pad) that has NOT been slicked up AT ALL and THAT WILL put an entire magazine into one ragged hole @ 25 yards. Unfortunately Marlin no longer offers the 1894P with its short barrel.
Don't know why, because one simply couldn't ask for a better brush gun for deer. I think I have close to $600.00 into the 1894P but can't remember exactly.I only have around $500.00 into the Puma. But the Uberti 1873 cost has rattled right up to $1,800.00 with all its goodies. Big difference. Is there THAT much difference in the way they handle and shoot? NO! The Uberti does handle better/faster than the Rossi ... but is it $1,300.00 worth of "better"? I say NO.
As far as handling goes, the Marlin 1894 is closer to the Puma than it is to the 1873 ... but it's more accurate than either. So I'm thinking you would be happiest with a Marlin 1894.
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Well, I'm a simple sort, and was raised in Montana just off the Ft. Belknap reservation. My view is that Custer was an arrogant, narcisistic, egotistical, overly ambitious, stubborn, certified jerk who got exactly what he deserved. As was stated before, his men may not have deserved that fate, but Custer certainly did.
As an American, what America did to the plains indian is a chapter in our history that I am absolutely ashamed of. If I had been in the military and had received the same orders that Custer did, I would have refused to obey those orders and the consequences be damned. Just the fact that he followed those orders defines him as a certified jerk in my book (along with all those who were responsible for issuing those orders, right up to the President). His arrogance, narcisism, ego, ambition, and stubborness simply add to my disgust for the man. My opinion of Custer is formed well before the actual battle ... just the fact that he was hunting the Indians in the first place is enough for my disgust. And yes, that means I am disgusted with 90% of America at that time.
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After dropping right around $1,800.00 for my Uberti 1873 from Long Hunter, there is no way on this earth that I'm going to wear it out or break it by dry-firing it! Absolutely NO WAY!
I don't dry-fire my revolvers either.
If I never get better, well, then I never get better.
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Bart,
I don't want folks to get the wrong impression of me but I have THREE 73' rifles, my main match rifle and two that are supposed to exact copies for back up. So, I speak from experience when I say that no two rifles feel the same even if they are made up of the same parts and workmanship. Even if I was blindfolded, I can tell my "everyday" rifle from either of the back ups. They can be close, but they will never be the same.
The reason I bring this up is that after spending all this money on "back up" rifles, I am starting to understand the wisdom in competing with what you practice with and keep my gunsmith's number on speed-dial on my phone.
Save the money, buy some spare parts and have your gunsmith fit them to the gun in advance so all you have to do is drop them in when necessary.
That's my .02 worth anyway.
Dang It Dan
Dang it, that's probably the best, most sensible advice I've heard yet on this subject.
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A competitive shooter wants his backup guns to function identical to his main match guns.
Well, if your emphasis is on "being competitive" then it goes without saying you have the resources to back that up and are willing to put those resources into the game. If you don't you're just howling at the moon.
I am just a poor ol' regular geezer whose emphasis is on "being entertained" and "having fun" and "not taking myself too seriously", as I suspect most of us are. I started with a Rossi Puma 92 44 mag stainless 24" and had that slicked up at around $500.00. Later I bit the bullet and got a Uberti 1873 44 special from Long Hunter with all the goodies, and it ran me right arund $1800.00. The fact of the matter is that the 1873 is nice, but it's way more gun than I actually NEED to just have fun, be entertained and shoot matches. My 92 is a perfectly adequate backup. And so long as I'm mindful of which gun I have in my hands, I can't actually run the 73 all that much faster than my 92. Faster yes, but not by much.
Another thing that may make me different from you is that my emphasis is on ACCURACY, meaning putting all rounds within a 3" circle in the center of that target ... as opposed to scattering lead all over that large target just for the sake of speed. The fact is that if one were using that rifle to actually defend one's self, all the speed in the world would get you real dead real fast unless you can hit what you're aiming at.
And to maintain the same level of accuracy, I just can't run the 73 all that much faster than the 92. 
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For best results, make sure to use Athletic socks - they go faster!!!
:DAnd it probably wouldn't hurt if they haven't been washed for a couple months.
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I don't remember the brand name - or if the gun even had one. I was 12 years old in 1959 and tried to pull a fast one on my folks who wouldn't let me have a handgun. I ordered a .22 cheapo pistol for $8.00 out of an add in the back of a magazine ... can't remember what magazine either except that it was some kind of macho adventure magazine, not a gun magazine. When it arrived, the front sight sat at about a 45 degree angle and the gun seemed to be made of pot metal. Even at 12 years old I was smart enough to know it wasn't safe and never even fired it. At the same time I had an old hand-me-down little Stevens rolling block .22 rifle that had a broken firing pin and that I kept making firing pins for from nails with a file.
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I just switched from 4 3/4" clones to 5 1/2" Rugers and since my holster rig was set up for the clones they were very tight with the Rugers. What I did was to slip the Rugers into a pair of athletic ankle socks and shoved them in to proper depth, then put them in the safe. I did this last night and after seeing this thread I pulled them out of the safe for look. They now fit perfect, no slickum needed! Hope this helps.
The sock treatment works very well! Just put your gun in a sock, cram it all the way into the holster (POUND it in with your fist if necessary), leave it sit over night or 24 hours. That will stretch the leather just a bit and loosen the holster up. If doesn't loosen up enough with one sock, go to TWO socks, or even THREE. Leather will stretch quite a bit actually, and it will hold its shape once stretched.
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2. Muzzle direction is important between, before, during, and after shooting a stage. A muzzle must not be allowed to “sweep” the other participants at any time. Long guns shall have their actions open with chambers and magazines empty and muzzles pointed in a safe direction when transported at a match.
Page 21, Shooters' Handbook.
I can think of only one safe direction, up.
What goes up ... must come ... DOWN!
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I agree about getting the best gear you can afford early on, but.... I'll repeat my skeet example. I started with a sawed off standard 1100 and it worked just fine until I got better and could afford a higher rate gun. Rarely do you ever see a beginner show up with a $10,000.00 + Perazzi just to see if he/she gets better enough to justify the $10,000.00 + cost of the gun. They may never make it in 30 years of shooting. That does not mean that they cannot have fun during this time with a cheaper gun. Of course I only was able to shoot SASS for a very small amount of time before being forced by health to quit shooting, but I know for a fact that I'd probably never surpass the abilities of my 92, or my Rugers, or my Stoeger. There are quite a few folks that the same condition applies, so why invest so much money at the start if they will never need it? Rarely do people jump head first and full throttle into a sport. I imagine that Tiger Woods's first set of clubs was nothing to write home about. As he improved, so did his equipment. Same with my ice hockey run in grade school and high school. I started goalkeeping with Sunday newspapers strapped to my legs for padding (I couldn't afford the $500.00 cost for pads that fit (this is in 1970 dollars). As I improved playing on frozen ponds, I slowly acquired better and better equipment to match my abilities. Why is it so wrong for a new SASS shooter to do the same with his/her starting equipment? If they get better, then great get some newer gear. If not, then they are already set with what they'll need for a long time to come. I saw skeet shooters that were just average like me that were talked into buying a muli-thousand dollar gun to "improve", and shot for years just as crappy as the rest of us commoners. That was sad. Imagine how much ammo that extra $9,000.00 could have bought. Just my observations. Smithy.
All points well taken and true.
Now let's switch from ice hockey to guitar playing. Nothing will dissuade a beginner from learning to play guitar like a cheap guitar! A cheapo $100.00 guitar will not stay in tune, has an action so high that it is literally blood-blister painful to play, and usually sounds like crap. Step up to around $300.00 and you get a very satisfying, easy to play guitar that stays in tune. Perfectly adequate for a beginner through intermediate. And when you become a serious blues guitarist like me, $3,000.00 isn't too much to pay for exactly what you want in a custom guitar. I got to where even that wouldn't satisfy me and turned to building my own with custom-wound pickups and my own circuitry and still having that much invested.
So with guns there's a trade-off level at some point. You have to pay whatever is necessary to get a fully functional gun with decent accuracy. Anything less won't satisfy even a beginner.
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I don't own a Marlin that's SASS legal, but I do own a Marlin 1894P (44mag, ported 16" barrel, padded rubber but pad) and dearly love that short stubby little monster. Even with the ported barrel it's a little "snotty" when it lets loose.
I have a 3X9 Leupold scope on it in quick-detach rings, and that little bugger is a real tack-driver. If its accuracy translates to all Marlin 1894s, then you can't beat the Marlin for accuracy.I have a Rossi stainless 1892 with 24" octagon barrel in 44 mag and a Uberti 1873 in 44 Special also with 24" barrel. My Marlin is more accurate than both of them.
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But...... If you do end up talking to the power's that be, I think that it would look a lot better if the Police picked up the brass and did find your prints on the casings. If not, why would you shoot a guy and pick up the finger print void shell casings unless you were up to no good? That certainly looks like you would be trying to hide things instead of being open and honest. I do believe that if you are faced with having to defend your life (or that of your family's), you'd better aim real good so the only aftermath story they hear is the one you've provided them with. Smithy.
That was my original point. Make sure they don't survive to provide a different story. As for "having to roll them over", well, it is well-documented self-defense practice, as taught in most self-defense courses, to keep shooting until the bad guy is DOWN ... not fire one shot and wait to see if it had effect.
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Yer kidding, right?
I did say "excellent CCW gun"..you even quoted me saying that... you put the NAA mini into the excellent catagory? Just saying.
But go ahead if you think it will do the job for you.
Blastmaster
The definition I refer to as "excellent" is your reference to working in all kind of weather with all kinds of clothing.
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Police will find you after the perp you shot with your NAA mini gun (you mentioned above) cks in at the hospital and the perp spills his guts to when/where/how/by who'm shot him.
Perps have crawled off the scene after being shot by bigger stuff than a 22. Will you be shooting to stop the threat or to roll them over and shoot again? If you roll them over, then you are then another criminal.
But anyhow, if you have the presents of mind to erase all evidence/witness and form an aliby (sp),,,, more power to ya.
Wow, all started with a carry rig.
And the race is on.
Who said the NAA was the only gun I carry?
My main CC gun is a Kahr MK40 Elite. It will definitely get the job done. And I am EXTREMELY careful to MAKE SURE that none of the cartridges in its magazine have my fingerprints on them!
I hope and pray that I NEVER have to use either of those guns!!! I will exercise every ounce of my energy/awareness to stay OUT of those situations. But I am also very aware that if you do have to use a gun to defend yourself, you are basically guilty until proven innocent. The strong probability is that if you do end up in court, your life will be ruined (unless you're wealthy enough to foot the bill for years of legal representation, appeals, etc.). In a case where there are no witnesses and it's just your word against the bad guy's word, whichever attorney can best manipulate the jury's emotions WINS. Period. There is no such thing as justice, there is no such thing as "right" or "wrong".
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I don't think finding your empty casing will come into play in a self defense situation. If you survive, you will be down at the police station and THEY will gather the empties up for evidence. They can gather the empties from the cylinder or the ground. Doesn't matter to them.
Good reasoning between a semi and a revolver. However, a DA revolver is superior to a SA revolver in a self defense situation. Something you should really consider, train toward and getting proficient with. In the mean time, ya, stick with the SA.
Well, regarding empty cases in a self-defense situation:
Odds are very good that if you ever are in that situation there will be no witnesses - crooks don't like witnesses.
That leaves just you and them.
I don't know about you, but if I am ever in that situation, my first instinctual priority is to check for witnesses and if there are none, I do NOT intend to leave any of the bad guys alive to ruin my life in court later, I do NOT intend to leave any brass with my prints all over it, and I do NOT intend to say one mumbling word about the incident to ANYbody.
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Yep!! full size revolvers are long, wide and thick. Length can be shortened somewhat by barrel length choice.
I don't believe there is an all inclusive one 'excellent' CCW gun that will work in all weather contions (hot/cold) and all types of dress (jacket, sweater, no jacket, no sweater and so on). With that thought in mind, a person must own a few different CCW of different sizes and shapes and calibers and with different holsters so they will have some combination that will allow them to carry no matter what the weather or clothing dictates. That also means the person has to belly up and learn how to handle/shoot all these different firearms. Of course, along the way, the person will have to compromise on some aspects of his CCW performance cause that is all he has. NO, a 380 is not a first choice main match CCW IMNSHO, but it is better than nothing, and should be in your fleet cause there are times, the 380 is all that you can conceal.
So, it sounds like the OP is limiting himself by choosing only the SAA revolver type to cold weather carry were jackets and swethers will be worn. Try setting in a restraunt with your coat on for the entire meal. Or will he leave it in the car more time than not. Think Luby's.
Just a thought.
Blastmaster
"I don't believe there is an all inclusive one 'excellent' CCW gun that will work in all weather contions (hot/cold) and all types of dress (jacket, sweater, no jacket, no sweater and so on)."
A NAA mini revolver is exactly that gun! It is a gun that you have NO EXCUSE for not having on your person.
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All of these ideas MIGHT work if I could keep my britches up, too. Everything south of the equator seems to slide down except my boots.
Me too! God in his perversion decided that I didn't need a butt to hold my pants up. And when I wear suspenders I get a wedgy every time I bend over.
But I do wear suspenders with my SASS get up, and just try not to bend over. Hey, do you know of a discreet, nonchalant way of pulling your pants and jockey shorts out of the crack of your yaas yaas yaas - I mean that doesn't draw attention? I have tried just blowing them out of there with a good fart, but that's unpredictable (other things can happen) and can be dangerous (I got slapped once by a little old cowlady) 
.As for my gunbelt slipping down, my solution is to wear a one-gun rig and pack the other gun in a shoulder holster. The one-gun rig pulls at a diagonal and doesn't slip down.
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One more off the wall thought:
You're from Wyoming, so cowboy boots are common. You can stuff a whole lot into the top of a cowboy boot.
You might think about finding a leather worker who can make you a minimalist holster that would attach to one of the pull-on loops at the top of your boot top to keep the gun from working its way down to grind on your ankle. This would be more comfortable than the typical ankle holster. If you have skinny calves like me this might work, but if you have big calves the gun might not fit into the boot top.
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I have the NAA "regular" 22mag with the 1 5/8" barrel.
Yes, it is LOUD.
I dearly love the little bugger. I have absolutely no problem putting all 5 rounds into a cantelope sized circle at 15 yards (slow, deliberate fire). The NAA oversize rubber grip that I have on it (same grip as on their mini-master) goes a long way towards enabling me to do that. But the gun is meant for very up close and personal last-ditch self-defense. At 3 or 4 yards I could VERY EASILY put all 5 rounds in the the bad guy's HEAD.
People poo-poo the short-barreled 22 mag as a viable self-defense round, but I will guarantee you that just one round into a person's HEAD at 3 - 4 yards is GOING TO STOP THE FIGHT. The muzzle energy of a 22mag is very nearly that of a 38 Special! (smaller bullet but traveling much faster). Also consider that a 22 long rifle automatic is often the weapon of choice for assassins (A nice quiet shot to the back of the head at close range will definitely get the job done).
Regarding the idea that most of the 22mag powder burns in the air and that it really isn't significantly more powerful than a 22LR in these guns: My 22mag kicks twice as hard as when it is loaded with 22LR. It wouldn't kick twice as hard unless there was twice as much pressure built up in the barrel behind the bullet!
I like the short barrel because the gun will drop into any pocket regardless what I am wearing (even with the oversized grip). That means I have it with me constantly ... meaning ... ALL THE TIME. A gun that you left home or left in the car for comfort's sake is utterly useless. My NAA is in the front breast pocket of my down vest right now as I type this.
Forget hollow points for this application! For this small caliber, PENETRATION is what you want. Its effectiveness is 100% penetration and shot placement.
If you can find 22mag ammo designed for short barrels and with a solid plated slug, that would be the ticket. -
Well, first off, you're trying to conceal an elephant in a living room.
SAAs aren't meant to be concealed and will be nearly impossible to conceal under anything short of an arctic parka.
I have a Coronado leather vest with the inside special gun "holster".
It will barely conceal my Kahr MK40, but even with that small gun it looks like I have one boob.
That's because the MK40 is all stainless and relatively heavy (like your SAA) so it makes the vest sag on one side and look like I have one boob. Any onlooker would know I had something bulky and heavy stashed in there! My MK40 conceals VERY well in a IWB Don Hume holster. But it's a FLAT pistol less than 1" wide. The large SAA cylinder would be uncomfortable in any IWB holster (unless you're comfortable with a golf ball wedged under your belt somewhere). 
Your best bet would probably be to find (or have custom made) a good high-ride "pancake" or "paddle" holster. And that's going to be very hard to find for a SAA! And you would still have to wear a vest or jacket.
You would have to wear a vest or jacket with a shoulder holster as well.
About the only practical thing I can think of to carry a SAA around concealed without a vest or jacket would be a "fanny pack" designed just for that purpose. A fanny pack doesn't telegraph "GUN" to the world like a big lump under a vest.
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first off, I'd like a set of perfectly tuned and matching .38 special (not .357) Ruger Vaqueros, with all the liability wording removed, as well as any other stampings on the frame. then blued like the early Colt Pythons were, and the frames casehardened by Doug Turnbull. aged ivory grips , of course.
next, a deluxe '73 , custom made by Ruger (durability + USA manufactured), super tuned by Jimmy Spurs, and finished by Turnbull as well.
also a '66, also by Ruger, Spurs and Turnbull.
lets not forget a new Browning BSS coach gun, with Turnbull treatment.
while we are at it, a model '97 , race ready and Turnbull finished.
might as well have a trio of gatlings made,...45.70, 30 carbine, and .22LR
Festus
Well, Festus, you can remove all of that fine Ruger "literature" from your barrel by simply draw-filing it off - and then spending a month or so wearing out your thumbs with fine metal polish to polish it all out nice and purdy. I did that to my Original 44 mag stainless Vaquero. It took about a solid month's worth of evenings in front of the TV with the metal polish rubbing and rubbing and rubbing and rubbing and rubbing and rubbing, but it was a labor of love
combined with "well, I wish I had never had this bright idea, but I'm committed now" 
, but it turned out really really nice. -
I would have Freedom Arms build me two six-shot 45 Colts with fixed sights like the SAA so it would be SASS legal that have the same accuracy as their current offerings (one inch @ 100 yards) and that ACTUALLY SHOOT TO POINT OF AIM
(what a concept!). It would be expensive because Freedom Arms currently offers only 5-shot revolvers .Actually, if I had UNLIMITED funds, I would start my own gun company and produce single action sixguns in 45Colt that were GUARANTEED to SHOOT TO POINT OF AIM and GUARANTEED to SHOOT A 2" GROUP @ 25 yards (with specific commercially available ammo). Then Colt and Uberti and Pietta and Ruger and all the rest could either follow suit or go out of business. To my mind it is absolutely reprehensible that they DON'T produce guns of that level of accuracy and consistency. Or maybe it's all of US who are reprehensible for accepting the inferior quality that they DO produce. Regardless, it is my humble opinion that any gun that will not shoot to point of aim with a decent group is about as useful as goose crap on a pump handle
(and no, I DON'T care whether or not it says "Ruger" or "Colt" on it!).And my first offering would NOT be "The Loosehammer New Model", so the pedantics out there couldn't wast days and weeks squabbling over the name. It would be "The Loosehammer Mark 1". But then I suppose they'd be all confused because it actually had a tight hammer.
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I just this week bought a Ruger Mark III Competition pistol. Don't even have it yet, waiting for it to arrive. I spent 3 days researching every red dot I could find online, trying to find the best one for the money for $100.00 or less. That research pointed hands-down at the Bushnell TRS-25 1X25 Trophy. I must have read several hundred user reviews of this unit and couldn't find a single bad review, and people were using it on everything from 22s to 45-70 rifles and 12 guage shotguns, and quite a few reviews from people who have had it in use for quite a few years with no problems. Over eighty of those reviews are in the link below. It is an ultra compact one-inch tube type red dot with a 3MOA dot and 11 brightness settings and a battery life of 3,000 hours (that's roughly 4 months left on day and night). I bought one yesterday at Cabellas for $79.00. It is very solidly built, the dot is nice and clean and round, and on a mid-setting of 4 or 5 the dot is plenty bright enough for any sunny day. All of the controls have very positive click settings. It is also very compact - it looks like it was made just for the Ruger Mark III.
I also very highly prefer the 3MOA dot over the 5MOA dots in most red dot units out there (like the BSA and Tasco units)!
Also, when I bought mine at Cabelas, the one they had in the display case was marked at $79.00, but when I went to pay for it, it came up on the cashier's screen as $110.00. The manager told her to charge me what it was marked at in the display case. Don't know exactly what was going on there
, all I do know is that most on-line vendors like Midway and Opticsplanet have them at right around $100.00 which is why I jumped on the one I found at Cabelas. I see that Primary Arms has them listed for $89.99 which is the cheapest I've seen them on-line.There was a very small sticker on the bottom of the unit saying "Made in China". That's a bit hard to take, but the look and feel of it is of very high quality nonetheless. I once had a surplus Chinese SKS rifle. It was built like a small tank and was utterly reliable.
The Bushnell TRS-25 1X25 Trophy is very similar to the Aimpoint Micro T-1 Tactical Red Dot Sight that costs around $658.00 so practically speaking it is one heck of a good buy. It has shorter battery life than the Aimpoint, but $500.00 is a lot to pay just for longer battery life, which is the only PRACTICAL difference I can see, plus it has a 3MOA dot instead of the 4MOA dot of the Aimpoint which as far as I am concerned makes it BETTER than the Aimpoint.
It also has metal windage/elevation covers rather than plastic covers like the Aimpoint!
Video - A well tuned Colt SAA
in SASS Wire
Posted · Edited by Rancid Loosehammer
Yup, pretty good shootin' pard. I'll be nice to you if we ever meet up in the Shortbranch Saloon!
And nice pistola!
The ivory grips will make 'er sweet 'n sassy. LOL