All Activity

Hey Russia, SAY WHEN!

Invented by Alexander the Great and used by the Romans.... The war in Ukraine has repeatedly illustrated that despite significant advancements in military technology, the most simple solutions often prove to be the best. This is emphatically demonstrated by the Ukrainians' adoption of an ancient Roman invention in their conflict against the Russian forces. This invention, known as the "caltrop," showcases the enduring efficacy of basic military tools. More than two years have passed since the escalation of the war in Ukraine on February 24, 2022. Over this period, the frequent use of technologies and tactics far removed from modernity has been observed on the battlefield. A prime example of this is the Russian use of outdated tanks that hail from the USSR era. Recently, the media has highlighted the Ukrainian military's adoption of weaponry that reaches further into history. This references the "caltrops," devices modeled after those used in ancient Rome, now deployed via drones. This strategy exemplifies the seamless integration of modern technology with millennia-proven methods of warfare. Ukrainian drones are now scattering a four-pronged, metal weapon across roads, ingeniously designed so that one end always points upwards regardless of how it lands. The term caltrop derives from the Latin word meaning "heel catcher." These spiked obstacles can be traced back to at least 313 BC when Alexander the Great's army used them to thwart Persian cavalry, as reported by Forbes magazine. Since the onset of the conflict, the military has utilized large, sharp anchors that required manual placement. The current method is far simpler and more efficient; drones facilitate the distribution of caltrops more widely and with greater precision. The strategy of deploying caltrops via drones is poised to inspire numerous innovative tactics. Drones are already being used to lay mines, place ground sensors, and even deploy small robots. The potential applications are limited only by the users' creativity, Forbes concludes.

I'll try to catchup with recent posts. I reached out to Jim at Long Hunter first when I identified the problem and he replied and has been incredibly helpful although I didn't want to drag him too deep unless I send it to him to completely rework (which I still might). I was *told* the rifle was Long Hunter tuned when I bought it but there's no way for me to know if that was true or not or to what extent he did the work and I think it is an older rifle with a lot of miles on it. It is .38/.357. The top of the block was very very worn where the cartridge rim scrapes along the top/rear edge of the carrier during ejection. When I eject a cartridge, about 1-2 times per magazine full the lever would jam at the bottom with a cartridge stuck at a 45d angle trapped between the bolt and carrier block. A quick jiggle and it would release but of course when shooting a stage it completely wrecks your rhythm and time when it jams a couple of times during the stage even though you can clear it. A friend of mine just purchased a new rifle from Long Hunter with the FULL action work. He had all the original parts removed from his rifle so I did attempt to go back to an original block but that wouldn't cycle at all. I have no idea why but it was a total no-go. Jim resells an identical looking "Pioneer" block so I ordered one because to all appearances my problem was only because of the wear on the top of the carrier. I got the new carrier block in and it looked identical but when I replaced it the bolt was dragging and sticking. My calipers showed that the carrier walls were several .001's thicker than the one I pulled so I just filed it out until the bolt stopped dragging. That allowed the rifle to cycle smoothly. I did take the rifle to a match last weekend and it did not jam and no issues with feeding it during cycling. Back to the remaining problem with loading. Cartridges loaded pretty smooth/easily with the original block but with the new block they have to be pushed hard to get them to feed into the tube. My guess was that the thicker carrier walls wasn't allowing the cartridge to feed "around the corner" but Jim followed up and indicated that the gate may be rubbing on the block and not opening all the way and that sometimes you need to file some material off the bottom of the gate. I'm going to take a look and see if it's the gate or if I need to remove a little more material off of the inside of the block where the nose of the cartridge might be rubbing. Maybe a sharpie or some paint on a bullet tip will show were to file. I'm very close to having this rifle back in the groove. I did get a reply from "Willshootem" at Pioneer Gun Works and again "Very Helpful". He did indicate that his supplier is very good with quality but they have had a few occasions where product dimensions were off and did require some filing. I don't know which carrier is correct but there is a definite measurable difference between my old and the new so having to take a file to the new one seems more reasonable now. I feel a little better that I'm not creating more trouble for myself or doing something that could ultimately make the gun a safety concern. I'm going to go back through the thread and see if there was anything I missed but I really appreciate all the replies and help. I don't want to be a gunsmith but I do like knowing how they work and there's a certain amount of DiY that I think you need to be able to do with this hobby. There's also a line somewhere that I don't want to cross. I'm amazed and appreciative by how helpful everybody has been with SASS, from the local guys at the matches to the guys here online and the vendors like Jim and 'Will...'. The amount of support adds to the fun and participation. It's not just showing up on Saturday and pulling a trigger.

I,ll take the CZ . Pm me

Thank you sir!!

PM sent.

I once got a modest raise. It pushed me into a higher tax bracket and take-home turned out to be less than I was making.

Dispute the Order with your credit card co. Cancel the order and shop elsewhere.

Actually the first and last picture is for the item marked #3. 1. Shotgun belt, 50" to center + 2 holes up or down. Holds 18 rounds, made by Hunter Co. Price is $50.00 shipped. 2. Holsters with belt for 38 New Vaqueros. Belt is cut for a lady 46" to center hole plus 2 holes up or down. Made by Tom Harris. Price is $135.00 plus $15.00 shipping. 3. Matching holster and Shotgun belt set made by Tom Harris. Holsters were made for Ruger Single Sixes. The bullet loops on the shogun belt were for 32 H&R but with some work they could be made to hold 38s. The shogun loops were for 20 gauge but with time and wet molding they could be made to hold 12 gauge. Again these belts were cut for a lady. Holsters & belt 39" to center with 2 holes up or down, shotgun belt 38" to center with 2 holes up or down. This is a really nice set of leather! Priced as a set $$220.00 shipped. Will consider selling separately.

I've said it before and I'll say it again..... Its just unfortunate that it wasnt a SUICIDE SCENE that he was rehearsing!

I placed an order for bullets on March 11th. For bullets that were labeled as available to ship the next day. I have sent multiple emails with no response. I have called multiple times with no answer and today I get a standard message that the number is not available or out of the coverage area. anyone else have any trouble. Or any suggestions for what may be going on. Close to disputing the charge with the credit card company at this point as it has been over 5 weeks without any response. there website still shows my order as awaiting shipment, as it has since March 12th.

I remember years ago when I worked at Hughes Aircraft I did a few hours of OT one week and I had a few dollars less that 40 straight on my check. I was telling my coworkers that unless I could do 8 or more hours I wasn’t doing OT again. Sone of the brainiac physicists told me “That is impossible! You don’t know what you’re talking about!” I explained that I did. Then I proved it. THAT shut’em up. Morons with degrees. Where could we have been without them?!

With Sear engagement I think it looks OK but I'm not sure what normal looks like. I assume the lip on the hammer gets worn down and I'd have to replace the hammer right?

I just saw one of these for sale so figured I'd ride that interest. Had this sitting idle for a couple years, since I got my preferred system repaired so.... Shipped at $325 or delivered close by Tucson or at the Four Corners Regional next week. Ol' #4

Check sear engagement first!! a spring won't fix a poor interface between sear and hammer notch. Ol' #4

Been up this trail to the top of Whitney many times. When I was 18, I hiked the John Muir Trail with 2 friends from start to finish. Took 2 months and we had a blast.

I think my trigger spring is worn out on my Uberti 1866. The hammer is riding the bolt forward in matches. I lever the rifle and the hammer is all the way forward. Cock the hammer with my thumb and it goes bang every time. I know I didn't have my finger near the trigger when closing the lever. At the Wild Bunch match last Tuesday I had to cock probably 25 of the 30 rifle shots. Ended up just borrowing a rifle to finish the match. For the life of me I cannot find a replacement though other than some put of used guns. Any help guys?

Lots of non-infantry folks earned CIBs in Nam while serving with ground combat forces. And everyone, regardless of branch who serves in a combat zone, earns the right to wear a combat patch.

Largo, I’d be interested in one.

As I recall, the tsar was heavily in debt after the Crimean war and was figuring that with the British Empire in Canada, they could just push him out of Alaska and he’d prefer having the much weaker US on his Eastern flank.

I'm a unrepented double cocker. I tried to alternate cock, as instructed by my gunfighter mentor, Jackalope. It just didn't feel right. I will alternate cock if the stage works better that way. While double cocking, I have no trouble changing leads. What's funny is that if a pistol sequence is very difficult, I just concentrate on shooting the targets in the correct order and I don't think about single or double cocking. Whatever comes out of the revolvers just happens. Most of the time this works just fine; occasionally, at the end of a string a revolver will just go click. When that happens, I just shoot it with the other revolver.

Don’t eat such a heavy meal before going to bed.

This is a WW II/Korean war era M1 US military carbine stock. It’s an early type III style and comes with metal butt plate, recoil plate and forend retainer. The only markings on the stock are the double set of arsenal refurbishing stamps. The butt plate is marked Standard Products. Overall good condition with minor dings and dents, no cracks, original oil finish. $200 plus shipping.

Up again