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  2. But I wanted to make sure I got it posted.
  3. There is a wonderful thread about tuning the '73 Miroku in archives. I'd asked about a couple of problems I had with my rifle that never got answered. It is answered now. I had until this morning a problem on closing the lever. Never took the time to really sort it out but seems I am not the only one with something similar happening. El Cubano sent me a PM and mentioned his problem a few days ago and what he was seeing. I hadn't had the side places off mine since last year and never bothered to look at the bolt. Bingo! Cubano saw if before I even thought about it. "Noticed you have the same issue I do, the lever seems to have to cam the links in even before it hits the lever safety. Did you ever figure out how to clean this up? Seems to me like the bolt actually has too much material on that block in front of the links and my links are actually deflecting out a bit to account for being too long. One side is more or less perfect, it cams in just as the lever closes and is just a very slight lock, the other side needs a plastic mallet to unlock it. " El Cabano The camming action on my carbine was hard enough it gave my wife a full set of blisters across her fingers after just one short 5 stage match. I just found how hard the lever was to close really annoying. We have other guns to shoot so it wasn't a big deal. I had set the miroku aside and figured I'd sort it out later...….now a year later I got back to it. I had thought it the cams. It isn't. It was the bolt and how the bolt is fitted by the factory. Just too much steel left where the bolt is faced off and fitted to the receiver on my gun. It would have taken a lot of rounds to beat this one into submission. Literally 3 minutes and the careful use of a #2 Swiss file recut the bolt and now the action is typical, '73 smooth. If you look at the first picture at the bolt where it engages the frame there is a V there where metal contacts and then there is open space going up towards the receiver. Not a lot of metal contact where the bolt meets the receiver. In the 2nd photo you can see how Miroku fits the bolt by cutting the front edge to mate with the receiver. My gun had just a tiny bit too much metal left here which made the lever really hard to close on full battery at closing. A few strokes with a fine #2 Swiss file solved the problem. But it would be really easy to cut too much here...so I would recommend going slow and testing as you go. Also worth pulling the links out one side at a time, then working the bolt and making sure the bolt was cut square to the frame originally. Mine was. El Cubano's was not. Hope this helps someone else and thanks again El Cubano for pointing me in the right direction. rt reply
  4. Kind of funny. It it was salmon that had been hung out to dry in the sun until it was like shoe leather people would say it was great.
  5. Howdy, Depends on your operating system but somewhere you are clearing the one cookie you need. Delete the delete action and you wont have to sign in over and over. When I clear cookies and history and all such, I have to sign in again. But I know when to expect it. You may have turned on an option to delete all cookies at logoff. Its in your settings depending on your system. Best CR
  6. If you ordered the rifle under the assumption that they would meet the specs that they provided and they did not comply with THEIR specs, then they either owe you a new rifle or a full refund including your expenses. That’s my legal opinion as an engineer.
  7. I have an original Winchester in 32-20 and I have settled on a .313 bullet and a solid crimp and not a problem in 50 yrs. As the thin case neck is stressed from overuse it does not provide a good grip on the bullet.
  8. I hope you haven't tried to anneal the brass cases. Nearly everyone who anneals "by eye" overheats the brass. Once it is overheated it is ruined forever and can't be used.
  9. My issue was twofold. One in the magazine tube and the second was unfired rounds because of not clhambering fully. Smaller diameter bullet fixed both and didn't hurt accuracy.
  10. It is really good to see some different perspectives that I had not considered. Cliff Hanger is pointing out that the “yield points” of lead and brass are different. That makes the “rebound” of brass greater than that of lead, leading to a bullet that is looser in the case than if I didn’t crimp as much. I’ll try some with less crimp. Tyrel Cody’s solution of using a smaller diameter bullet would address the same issue. Took me a few minutes to understand, but he’s saying squeeze the brass, not the lead for better results. I use 115 gr bullets sized to .313 now. To explain the problem a little more: The round in the magazine tube, usually second or third shot, backs straight back into the case. In a “73 this lets the next round come out of the magazine too far to the point that it prevents the carrier from lifting. The only way to clear it is to remove the offending round. My previous thinking was that a heavier crimp would solve the problem. But maybe not! HKU pointed out the different chamber sizes. I’ve seen the same problems with tight chambers on my 3rd gen Colts. That is the main reason I had to trim the base of my sizing die for use in the Dillon 550. (Had to do the same with 44-40 dies.) I’ve Used Abaline’s method of pushing the round, bullet first into the loading table. It works but is a PITA for monthly matches. I realize I’m doing something wrong, just don’t know what. I ‘preciate the advice so far and have a couple of new hints to try.
  11. https://ussconstitutionmuseum.org/2015/08/25/modern-armament/
  12. There are so many more interesting cartridges than just .45 and .38/.357. While the straight-walled cartridges, (don't forget .44!), are easiest to load, there is so much more available. Explore before buying. I saw one fellow post on another forum that he was into "historically correct", and was kicking himself for buying a rifle in .45
  13. Yep!!!! Let me know if anyone has one they would pass on!
  14. Y'all are missing the point... "Old Ironsides" is a symbol of American permanence. Still a commissioned warship at 222 years of age. Still well-maintained and seaworthy, still has a crew, still has her armament, but her purpose in life is now ceremonial: "Constitution's stated mission today is to promote understanding of the Navy's role in war and peace through educational outreach, historical demonstration, and active participation in public events...." A "BUFF" could could also fill such a role.
  15. Sounds like what you're looking for is one of these; a Uberti Richard-Mason Conversion Uberti Richard-Mason Conversion Ha! Too Tall beat me to the draw!
  16. Easiest solution - look for an 1851 Richards-Mason cartridge conversion revolver. Gives you exactly what you are looking for.
  17. Doesn't matter to me as long as it was done right
  18. I'm surprised that the State of Illinois doesn't kick them out! But then again, Illinois needs to have some companions for their ex-governors serving time in Joliet (or wherever).
  19. I use R-P brass for my smokeless .32-20's and either .312 or .313 115gr bullets. Lee dies with FCD. No turtling problem. Take a loaded round and push the round, bullet first, into a hard object. If it has a proper crimp the bullet should not push into the case. If it passes that test it should not collapse in the mag tube.
  20. Yes I do. I ship 65 pounds for$110. Or $35 a jug(25#) FTF.
  21. Naw! In the first place it would count against the number allowed according to the current Arms Limitation Treaties. Anyway, they have already reclaimed two (2) from the "bone yard" at Davis-Monthan. If those two are "reserectons", are the remaining ones down there "zombies"?
  22. Do you mean a factory conversion from Uberti or one that started as a Cap & Ball that has had a Conversion cylinder added?
  23. How would it become airborne and how would it be armed first?
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