non SASS - 44 Magnum load question-

[Tall John]

I inherited a very old can of Hodgdon H110 that is sealed and appears in very new condition.  Previous owner said it had been stored in climate control home.

 

Assuming that it isn’t red or abnormally aromatic when I open the can and burns vigorously when ignited with a match, I’m thinking about loading up some 240 grain Nosler JHPs in brand new Starline brass.
 

 The published min/max published load data only has a 1 grain spread between the min/max loads (corrected 23-24 grains)  Primer recommendation is Rem 2 1/2 (LPP’s). I have CCI’s, WRE’s and FED LPP’s.

 

1.  Would you try loading with this old powder?

 

2. if yes,  which primer Brand would you choose?

 

3. Assuming I start with the min load,   Would you test fire through a Marlin 1894 rifle or a S&W 6” 629? (Load data is the same for handgun or rifle.)

 

any other thoughts?

 

(obviously these would not be for SASS)

 

Edited September 19 by Tall John
Corrected load range to 23-24 grains

[Cholla]

Signs of bad powder:

 

• An overwhelmingly sharp, acidic, or pungent chemical odor instead of a mild solvent smell.

• Visual Changes: A fine red, rust-colored, or amber dust coating the kernels or inside the container, or kernels turning completely yellow, green, or snow-white.

• Fumes: Visible rust-colored or brownish fumes escaping when you first open the container.

• Corrosion: Rusted container caps from the inside out, or bleached plastic lids. 

I have only seen one can of powder that was rusty, and it went on the yard. Barring these signs, I would use it.

[Cholla]

Hornady has a minimum of 20.7 and a maximum of 24.8 grains of H110 behind a 240-grain JHP. I recommend getting a couple of printed reloading manuals, taking a sample from each, and then deciding. I have a library of 32 reloading manuals going back to the 1940s that I reference.

[Rattlesnake Slim]

I shot a ton of .44 magnum back in my long range handgun silhouette  days in Ruger Super Blackhawks Redhawk, and Dan Wesson revolvers. H110 was one of my favorite, most accurate powders. I always seemed to have the best accuracy at about 90% of maximum. I would start well below that, and just work up until you reach your best groups and call it good. Nothing to be gained beyond that.

 

Get ready for a sore shoulder, I always thought it was easier on me to shoot those loads out of a handgun than a rifle.

[Edward R S Canby, SASS#59971]

This powder (and its twin W296) prefer magnum pistol primers.  Read the manufacturers notes before reducing loads below the published minimum.

[H. K. Uriah, SASS #74619]

Always start with a minimum load.

Fire it first in your rifle.   If it seems similar to your other loads in the caliber, try the revolver.

For .44 Magnum, I use Winchester Large Pistol primers "For Standard or Magnum Loads."   If fact, that's what I use for everything, larger or small, rifle or pistol primers.   Never failed me.

Of course, in this caliber, I load a 200 grain bullet in front of a charge of Trailboss.   Very different performance from what you'll get with the 110.  (I think.)

Good luck.

[High Spade Mikey Wilson]

You'll know pretty quick when you open the can and smell and look at it if it went bad or not. If it's good, which I'm betting it will be, shoot it.

[Sedalia Dave]

9 hours ago, Edward R S Canby, SASS#59971 said:

This powder (and its twin W296) prefer magnum pistol primers.  Read the manufacturers notes before reducing loads below the published minimum.

 

THIS ^^^^

 

Going below published minimum of H110 is not considered wise.  

 

Be sure your rounds are firmly crimped at the correct OAL for that specific bullet profile.

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

H-110/WW-296 works best at the top end of load data with magnum primers and  firm roll-crimp!

[Widder, SASS #59054]

11 hours ago, Tall John said:

 

 The published min/max published load data only has a 1 grain spread between the min/max loads (26-27 grains)  Primer recommendation is Rem 2 1/2 (LPP’s). I have CCI’s, WRE’s and FED LPP’s.

 

 

 

 

 

TALL JOHN,

You stated the load data allows 26-27 grains for your bullet weight.

Double/triple check your data again.   MAX load is 24 grains......and your starting load should be 23 grains.

 

you will be happy with  23.0 grains using H110 with the 240 bullet.   My loads are 23.3 /23.4 grains in my S&W 629, Colt Kodiak and

at one time, my Marlin 1894 (when I had one in .44 mag).

 

As for using 'old' H110 powder.......unless any of the tale-tale signs listed above are apparent, you will be fine using it as a top 

performer in .44 mag.

 

A few years back, I had some 20+ year old H110 that had been stored in a cool, dry closet.   I also had some 20+ year old

loaded ammo and some new loaded .44 mag using new H110 powder.

THEN, I loaded up some new .44 mag ammo USING THE 20+ year old H110.

 

I took all those various pieces of ammo and chonographed them to compare performance variations.   There was

no variations in velocities from one batch to the other.   Incredible performance.

 

PRIMER:  I prefer CCI LP mag primer or Winchester Large Pistol.

 

A good crimp is a must to ensure your bullets stay secure under recoil.   Measure a particular bullet and don't fire it.

Stick it in the cylinder, shoot the other 5 rounds and pull out the previously measured round and recheck its OAL.

Try to set your crimp to where bullet OAL doesn't change more than .006 - .008 in OAL.  This variation should keep

your crimp in the cannelure and also help give consistent performance in each shot.

 

Good luck and happy shooting.

 

..........Widder

 

 

ALSO........case OAL should stay around 1.280

 

..........Widder

 

 

[Ya Big Tree]

From the Hornady Handbook Fourth Edition. Copy Write 1991.

 

Magnum Primers. I use CCI magnum primers

 

[Tall John]

2 hours ago, Widder, SASS #59054 said:

 

TALL JOHN,

You stated the load data allows 26-27 grains for your bullet weight.

Double/triple check your data again.   MAX load is 24 grains......and your starting load should be 23 grains.

 

you will be happy with  23.0 grains using H110 with the 240 bullet.   My loads are 23.3 /23.4 grains in my S&W 629, Colt Kodiak and

at one time, my Marlin 1894 (when I had one in .44 mag).

 

As for using 'old' H110 powder.......unless any of the tale-tale signs listed above are apparent, you will be fine using it as a top 

performer in .44 mag.

 

A few years back, I had some 20+ year old H110 that had been stored in a cool, dry closet.   I also had some 20+ year old

loaded ammo and some new loaded .44 mag using new H110 powder.

THEN, I loaded up some new .44 mag ammo USING THE 20+ year old H110.

 

I took all those various pieces of ammo and chonographed them to compare performance variations.   There was

no variations in velocities from one batch to the other.   Incredible performance.

 

PRIMER:  I prefer CCI LP mag primer or Winchester Large Pistol.

 

A good crimp is a must to ensure your bullets stay secure under recoil.   Measure a particular bullet and don't fire it.

Stick it in the cylinder, shoot the other 5 rounds and pull out the previously measured round and recheck its OAL.

Try to set your crimp to where bullet OAL doesn't change more than .006 - .008 in OAL.  This variation should keep

your crimp in the cannelure and also help give consistent performance in each shot.

 

Good luck and happy shooting.

 

..........Widder

 

 

ALSO........case OAL should stay around 1.280

 

..........Widder

 

 

thanks Widder et al!  Yes I mis quoted the range.  Good advise on checking crimp between shots!

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

H-110/WW231 meters great through my Dillion PM.

FWIW,  I load 24.0gn of 110 in my .44mag/240gn loads.

Fire them through my S&W 629-5 Mountain Gun.

[Griff]

For firearms chambered in 44 Magnum level that have also been chambered in 45 Colt, (Ruger BlackHawk, Super BH, Redhawk, & rifles such as the Rossi 92, Marlin 1894, Winchester 94), it can provide a level of performance that rivals the 44 Mag.    I color my hot rodded 45 Colt loads RED so I don't inadvertently load them in my SAAs or toggle links.  

[Widder, SASS #59054]

Another GREAT powder for stout .44 Mag and .45 Colt is LilGun.

 

Hey Lumpy.....those handholds you mentioned will keep Godzilla out of your back yard...

 

And Griff makes a great point about having those hot loads (.44 mag and .45 Colt) specially marked to

ensure you don't use them in the wrong firearm.

 

..........Widder

 

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

2 minutes ago, Widder, SASS #59054 said:

 

 

Hey Lumpy.....those handholds you mentioned will keep Godzilla out of your back yard...

 

 

 

..........Widder

 

For my Freedom Arms 83 in .454 Casull. 

I load 31gn of 110 pushing a 300gn bullet. 😂

Average MV from the 4 3/4" bbl is 1500fps.

[Rooster Ron Wayne]

I have loaded 44 mag hotter then that myself. 

Im not telling you how hot to load your loads. 

You should start at least 10% below max and work up your own loads and know what they do yourself. 

I usually use Winchester Large Pistol primers for all my 44 rounds ( Hot or Mild )  that's all you need .

 

[Tall John]

Alright fellers,

 

powder smells, looks and burns good!

 

next problem is that after setting up my press and loading some dummy rounds (1.60” OAL) that chamber in both my 1894 and my 629, I can’t get more than three rounds into the magazine of my 1894?
 

I can load up choice 44 mag 240RnFp cowboy rounds but they are only 1.55”.  I can also load up  44 spls with no issue.

 

not enuff crimp?

 

 

 

choice 👇

 

Edited September 19 by Tall John
Finished post

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

Try more crimp on the top ones.

Suggest you buy a chamber gage. 

Clean the magazine tube and follower. 

Edited September 19 by The Original Lumpy Gritz

[Tall John]

I just replaced the mag spring and follower in July. Mag takes 10 rounds of 44 spl and 10 rounds of OEM ammo.

 

I’m being cheap and trying to seat and roll crimp here with an RCBS seat/crimp die.  Will order a Lee FCD and split the operation.

Edited September 19 by Tall John

[Widder, SASS #59054]

Tall John,

I ain't saying that this is your problem, but I have experienced similar situations while working on a few Marlins

from previous years.

 

There is a rare situation with the 1894 Marlin that rears its ugly head while pushing rounds thru the loading gate

that causes the RIM of your previous loaded round to push downward and snag on the front edge of the portal

and prevent the round at the loading gate to push in.

 

And this situation is caused by the bullet style being used.

 

I'm gonna PM you my phone number if you think this is your problem and I can better advise you over the phone

on how to fix it.

Feel free to call me anytime.

 

..........Widder

 

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

58 minutes ago, Tall John said:

I just replaced the mag spring and follower in July. Mag takes 10 rounds of 44 spl and 10 rounds of OEM ammo.

 

I’m being cheap and trying to seat and roll crimp here with an RCBS seat/crimp die.  Will order a Lee FCD and split the operation.

Do NOT, seat and crimp on the same stage! 

[Tall John]

56 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Do NOT, seat and crimp on the same stage! 

im learning that…

[Griff]

17 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Do NOT, seat and crimp on the same stage! 

17 hours ago, Tall John said:

im learning that…

Old wives tale.  Properly adjusted dies do the seat/crimp function just fine.  I've tried a Lee FCD because I was told it made more accurate rifle ammo.  At least with my rifle/ammo combination I found that claim to be false, found no difference between my combo seat/crimp ammo and ammo that thru separate steps with the Lee FCD.  I will concede its usefulness for cases that vary in length, i.e. one doesn't trim brass.  But, that's rarely an issue with straight walled brass, until one gets into the extreme number of reloadings, especially with cartridges that headspace on the case mouth.  

 

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

23 grains of H110 behind most any 240 gr bullet was very common and competitive load back in my days of IHMSA.  I used 240 Sierra often and got in shot off one year at major match versus a traveling buddy,.  Can't remember the exact shot-off targets, possibly chickens at 150 or 200 but regardless. Rick and I went into I believe third bank tied and I was running out of ammo.  I borrowed five of his ammo H110/23 and 240 Speers to finish.  That was one time I beat him in Int revolver class.  As I remember another shooter in AA or AAA class shot a perfect score (40) so won Overall in Revolver.

I still load 23/H110 in 44 mag for my S&W 29,  Dan Wesson, and T/C 14".   Any 240 grain bullet seems to work well.

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

21 minutes ago, Griff said:

Old wives tale.  Properly adjusted dies do the seat/crimp function just fine.  I've tried a Lee FCD because I was told it made more accurate rifle ammo.  At least with my rifle/ammo combination I found that claim to be false, found no difference between my combo seat/crimp ammo and ammo that thru separate steps with the Lee FCD.  I will concede its usefulness for cases that vary in length, i.e. one doesn't trim brass.  But, that's rarely an issue with straight walled brass, until one gets into the extreme number of reloadings, especially with cartridges that headspace on the case mouth.  

 

Well, you're the exception then 🤔

I learned to seat and crimp in 2 separate stages back in my NRA Bullseye dayz.

The target proved it to be the way to go. 😉

 

 

[Chantry]

On 9/18/2026 at 9:03 PM, Tall John said:

I inherited a very old can of Hodgdon H110 that is sealed and appears in very new condition.  Previous owner said it had been stored in climate control home.

 

Assuming that it isn’t red or abnormally aromatic when I open the can and burns vigorously when ignited with a match, I’m thinking about loading up some 240 grain Nosler JHPs in brand new Starline brass.
 

 The published min/max published load data only has a 1 grain spread between the min/max loads (corrected 23-24 grains)  Primer recommendation is Rem 2 1/2 (LPP’s). I have CCI’s, WRE’s and FED LPP’s.

 

1.  Would you try loading with this old powder?

 

2. if yes,  which primer Brand would you choose?

 

3. Assuming I start with the min load,   Would you test fire through a Marlin 1894 rifle or a S&W 6” 629? (Load data is the same for handgun or rifle.)

 

any other thoughts?

 

(obviously these would not be for SASS)

 

 

I like H110.  I will note that you should a current reloading manual as sometimes the max load is less now than it used to be.  H110 is powder that is one of those that has been reduced.  A load used with a 200 grain bullet some 20+ years ago is now OVER max according to a much more current Lyman manual.

 

LInk directly to the Hogdon online reloading for .44 mag:  Reloading Data Center – Hodgdon Reloading Data Center

[Griff]

42 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Well, you're the exception then 🤔

I learned to seat and crimp in 2 separate stages back in my NRA Bullseye dayz.

The target proved it to be the way to go. 😉

I don't see how.  Lee didn't introduce their FCD until 1991.  What'd folks do prior to that?  I shot Bullseye in the early '70s.  Being in the military, I simply shot what they supplied, normally ball ammo.  Quit when I got out.  I didn't start reloading until 1972, mostly 44Spl/Mag & .30-30.  I didn't start reloading 38/357 & 45 Colt until 1973/4 and 45 Auto in 1975.  All of the above were seated/crimped in one step.  Yes, getting dies adjusted properly can be a tedious process.  But, it's far from impossible.  Frankly, if my impatient self can do it... 'nuff said.  

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

20 minutes ago, Griff said:

I don't see how.  Lee didn't introduce their FCD until 1991.  What'd folks do prior to that?  I shot Bullseye in the early '70s.  Being in the military, I simply shot what they supplied, normally ball ammo.  Quit when I got out.  I didn't start reloading until 1972, mostly 44Spl/Mag & .30-30.  I didn't start reloading 38/357 & 45 Colt until 1973/4 and 45 Auto in 1975.  All of the above were seated/crimped in one step.  Yes, getting dies adjusted properly can be a tedious process.  But, it's far from impossible.  Frankly, if my impatient self can do it... 'nuff said.  

Started loading in 1967 when no secondary size dies existed. 

[Tall John]

4 hours ago, Chantry said:

 

I like H110.  I will note that you should a current reloading manual as sometimes the max load is less now than it used to be.  H110 is powder that is one of those that has been reduced.  A load used with a 200 grain bullet some 20+ years ago is now OVER max according to a much more current Lyman manual.

 

LInk directly to the Hogdon online reloading for .44 mag:  Reloading Data Center – Hodgdon Reloading Data Center

The data from my original post came from the Hodgdon load data website

[Vail Vigilante]

Just one thing about old powders, which I learned from Dillon. If it has bee subjected to freeze-thaw cycles, this can be a problem. Rust in the top of the can indicate a problem. Start at minimum.

[Eyesa Horg]

Surprisingly, when I got into SASS and started reloading again in 2012; I finally found my powder and primers that had been miss placed since we moved here in 2005. It was purchased in the late 90s and I thought it all made it into the house!

Unfortunately it was in the attic of the garage, rut- roh! 30 below zero in the winter and over 115 in the summer for 6 years. The powder, mostly 231 smelled OK, so loaded some up. All 4K primers and 4# of powder worked just fine, phew!!

Lucky I think! 

[Griff]

Moisture is what kills powder... tightly sealed and out of direct weather is fine.  Most of my powder is stored in an old refrigerator out in my unheated, uncooled workshop/pole barn.  Some has been there for 35 winters and will shortly be 35 full summers.  I load approximately 10 rounds of 7mmRemMag per year with the same can on IMR4350... no problems so far. 

 

Loaded ammo comes inside the house.  

Edited September 21 by Griff

[Tall John]

Final update:  

 

my issue with not being able to insert more than three rounds in my 1894’s mag was not lack of crimp or it being dirty, thanks to Mr. Widder, we discovered that the longer 44mag case rim was catching on the left side of the magazine “portal” so with advice from Widder, I polished the 9:00 leading edge of the portal going in from the bbl end vs the receiver end which has proven to solve my loading problem.

 

(pics before polishing)

 

 

 

Second,  per Mr. Griff’s earlier comment, it is very possible to get a very good roll crimp out of a combination seat/crimp die IF the die is designed to do so!.  Half of the bullets in the pic we’re done with an FCD and the other half with the RCBS SEAT/Crimp die.

 

note, these 240gr Nosler JHP dummy rounds have been cycled through the rifle  multiple times thus the slight deformation of the soft lead tips fr hitting the floor.  Book calls for a 1.60” OAL thus why the bullet cannelure still shows in this 1.27-8” brand new Starline brass.

 

 

[Widder, SASS #59054]

For everyone involved in this topic, the particular message below was shared with Tall John prior to

our phone conversation last night (Tuesday night).   His rifle gremlin was very similar to others

I have experienced, not only in .44 caliber but other caliber 1894's.

Although not common, the portal entrance can cause some weird effects while loading thru

the loading gate.

 

If anyone wants to know more info on this issue, just ask on this thread in order for others to

see any added comments.

 

 

 

 

Tall John,

I ain't saying that this is your problem, but I have experienced similar situations while working on a few Marlins

from previous years.

 

There is a rare situation with the 1894 Marlin that rears its ugly head while pushing rounds thru the loading gate

that causes the RIM of your previous loaded round to push downward and snag on the front edge of the portal

and prevent the round at the loading gate to push in.

 

And this situation is caused by the bullet style being used.

 

I'm gonna PM you my phone number if you think this is your problem and I can better advise you over the phone

on how to fix it.

Feel free to call me anytime.

 

..........Widder

 

Edited September 24 by Widder, SASS #59054