Crimp dies

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

I have used Dillon separate seater and crimp die for years but giving thought to change in crimp die.  Seems Lee crimps more what I call a ribbon crimp versus my Dillon crimp which appears more of roll crimp.  Again my terminology.  I have been testing some different bullet/powder (bp) combinations lately loaded from my 1050 with Dillon dies finding a few primers to seem to be backing out. Considering a need for different crimp I am thinking of a change in crimp dies.  Trouble with roll crimp is a chance to bulge case if excessive.  I am crimping on bullet and not in a "crimp groove".  

I am finding no problem with smokeless loading, in fact very impressed with load.  BP not satisfying in particular bullet/powder combo.   (T7-2f has been good for me for many years with several brand and weight bullets but now off in new experimenting.)  Extreme accuracy can be a very much a mental satisfaction and I like that.

For you veteran reloaders, do you prefer Lee over RCBS, Dillon, etc?

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

I've tested several dies for crimping operations, and the one that comes out tightest and least likely to bulge the case wall below the crimp (because it resizes the case wall to proper loaded cartridge diameter) is the Redding Profile Crimp Die.  Sometimes it only works on a particular bullet profile, so it's not guaranteed to ALWAYS fit the slug that you may have picked out.  

 

Where the crimp is less likely to bulge the case, I lean toward RCBS dies.

 

good luck, GJ

[Widder, SASS #59054]

Billy Boots,

In my 50 years of reloading, I've used Lee, RCBS, Hornady and Redding dies and seemingly have tested crimps mainly with

Lee, RCBS and Redding.

 

Depending upon caliber, I've gotten great crimps with all of them, but I admit that my better crimps for most calibers

were using the Redding crimp dies.

Lee has also served me well.   And I load up everything from .32 H&R, 38/.357,  9mm, 10mm,  44 Mag, Hot 45 Colt, 454 Casull, 460 S&W mag

and 500 S&W Mag.

 

On my heavy recoiling revolvers,  I set my crimps where I can shoot all but 1 round, pull the unfired round out of the cylinder and 

measure OAL difference from original length and ensure bullet creep doesn't exceed approx .006 in OAL

I've been able to do with with Redding and Lee crimp dies WITHOUT causing case bulging or crimp distortions.

 

I would also go along with GJ and try the REDDING Profile crimp die.

 

..........Widder

 

[Preacherman]

18 minutes ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

I've tested several dies for crimping operations, and the one that comes out tightest and least likely to bulge the case wall below the crimp (because it resizes the case wall to proper loaded cartridge diameter) is the Redding Profile Crimp Die.  Sometimes it only works on a particular bullet profile, so it's not guaranteed to ALWAYS fit the slug that you may have picked out.  

 

Where the crimp is less likely to bulge the case, I lean toward RCBS dies.

 

good luck, GJ

I second the Redding Profile Crimp Die! Especially with 44-40. Straight wall, Lee carbide factory crimp is great.

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

Lee Factory Crimp Die has never let me down, have used them since they first came on the market. 

[Colorado Coffinmaker]

 

With one exception, I have never felt the need for "specialized" crimp dies.  I also have never loaded bullets that were sans a crimp groove.  For the last 30 or 35 years, I have reloaded 38Spl, 357Mag, 44Spl, 44Colt, 44 Russian, 45 Colt, 45 Schofield and Cowboy 45 Special.  In all but one application, I found Dillon dies to be perfectly satisfactory when loading Smokeless, Black Powder and APP.  My one exception is Cowboy 45 Special.  For the C45S I went to the Redding 45 Auto Rim Profile Crimp Die.  The Redding has been superb.

 

In my sordid past, primers backing out has mostly been the result of excessive Head Space, or insufficient chamber pressure (light load).  Insufficient chamber pressure can also be cause by insufficient crimp resulting in an incomplete burn.  My initial knee jerk thought is the projectile(s) without a proper crimp groove.  I bet switching to correct crimping grooves with a correct roll crimp will eliminate the problem without any case bulging. 

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

1 hour ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

I've tested several dies for crimping operations, and the one that comes out tightest and least likely to bulge the case wall below the crimp (because it resizes the case wall to proper loaded cartridge diameter) is the Redding Profile Crimp Die.  Sometimes it only works on a particular bullet profile, so it's not guaranteed to ALWAYS fit the slug that you may have picked out.  

 

Where the crimp is less likely to bulge the case, I lean toward RCBS dies.

 

good luck, GJ

Thanks Joe.  I may have a RCBS crimp die somewhere in all my reloading stuff.  Almost 60 years of it,

[J. M. BROWN, SASS # 27309]

I have tried the Dillon and both Lee dies.  When i went to the 105s I had a problem with the Lee Factory Crimp Die and went and tried one of the Lee Regular Dies. I wound up using two of the regular dies, one as a seating die and the other as just a crimp die.. I did this for the rifle only as I only set the crimp where it will not catch on the chamber edge.

More that that and it bulges around the crimp and drags in the shell checker.

By using them separately, if I need to change something, I only have to adjust one thing.

 

JM

Edited July 8 by J. M. BROWN, SASS # 27309

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

48 minutes ago, Widder, SASS #59054 said:

Billy Boots,

In my 50 years of reloading, I've used Lee, RCBS, Hornady and Redding dies and seemingly have tested crimps mainly with

Lee, RCBS and Redding.

 

Depending upon caliber, I've gotten great crimps with all of them, but I admit that my better crimps for most calibers

were using the Redding crimp dies.

Lee has also served me well.   And I load up everything from .32 H&R, 38/.357,  9mm, 10mm,  44 Mag, Hot 45 Colt, 454 Casull, 460 S&W mag

and 500 S&W Mag.

 

On my heavy recoiling revolvers,  I set my crimps where I can shoot all but 1 round, pull the unfired round out of the cylinder and 

measure OAL difference from original length and ensure bullet creep doesn't exceed approx .006 in OAL

I've been able to do with with Redding and Lee crimp dies WITHOUT causing case bulging or crimp distortions.

 

I would also go along with GJ and try the REDDING Profile crimp die.

 

..........Widder

 

W,

I am so surprised in this incident and may find it all in this particular bullet (intentionally not mentioning brand).  It is different and may just not my combinations.  It happens.

I heavy crimp with Dillon on 454 ammo and it appears like a ribbon, 38 & 357 looks more of roll.

I will keep working with crimp and load.  And, may order Redding just to try.  But, again may be entirely due to MY desire that are not working.

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

11 minutes ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

 

With one exception, I have never felt the need for "specialized" crimp dies.  I also have never loaded bullets that were sans a crimp groove.  For the last 30 or 35 years, I have reloaded 38Spl, 357Mag, 44Spl, 44Colt, 44 Russian, 45 Colt, 45 Schofield and Cowboy 45 Special.  In all but one application, I found Dillon dies to be perfectly satisfactory when loading Smokeless, Black Powder and APP.  My one exception is Cowboy 45 Special.  For the C45S I went to the Redding 45 Auto Rim Profile Crimp Die.  The Redding has been superb.

 

In my sordid past, primers backing out has mostly been the result of excessive Head Space, or insufficient chamber pressure (light load).  Insufficient chamber pressure can also be cause by insufficient crimp resulting in an incomplete burn.  My initial knee jerk thought is the projectile(s) without a proper crimp groove.  I bet switching to correct crimping grooves with a correct roll crimp will eliminate the problem without any case bulging. 

I'm going to take crimp die down a little more. At least just back of bulge.  Maybe try some newer brass also.  Charge has worked for years in the 1050 setup.  Here, bullet is very different but outstanding with smokeless.

Change in brass may show light too.  Using some old Nickle (I know yeks)

Thanks

Edited July 8 by Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

6 minutes ago, J. M. BROWN, SASS # 27309 said:

I have tried the Dillon and both Lee dies.  When i went to the 105s I had a problem with the Lee Factory Crimp Die and went and tried one of the Lee Regular Dies. I wound up using one as a seating die and the other as just a crimp die.. I did this for the rifle only as I only set the crimp where it will not catch on the chamber edge.

More that that and it bulges around the crimp and drags in the shell checker.

By using them separately, if I need to change something, I only have to adjust one thing.

 

JM

Do like separate process learning the hard way back in heavy lubed days.

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

57 minutes ago, Preacherman said:

I second the Redding Profile Crimp Die! Especially with 44-40. Straight wall, Lee carbide factory crimp is great.

Carbide.  I did notice Lee offered this version.

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

Thanks to all posts.  Will test more tomorrow and give report.

[Rye Miles #13621]

1 hour ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Lee Factory Crimp Die has never let me down, have used them since they first came on the market. 

THIS ^^^^^^

[Abilene Slim SASS 81783]

Years ago I had the need to load .38 SP bullets long, below the crimp groove. Back then Nate Kiowa posted a nice article on how to do that to make .38 SP feed better in a .38/.357 Win/Rossi ‘92. 
 

I used a Lee combo seat & roll crimp die without any issues of bulging the case or telescoping bullets. The loads worked like a charm. 
 

Since then I acquired a .38/.357 Uberti ‘73 which negates the need for long .38s. Still using the same die set.
 

The only cartridge I load with a separate seating die is .44-40. Having struggled with the Redding Profile die, I switched to Lee FCD which does a fine job. 

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

Note, I never seat and crimp on the same stage.

[Go West]

I got the LFCD for .38 Special after noticing crimps varied too much, some bullets actually spun by hand while most didn't. It didn't matter which headstamp was used and worked with groove or no groove bullets. I picked up another 650 which had Dillon .38 Special dies that seems to work just fine except for the decapper which I swapped in a Lee decapper. Backed out primers have been due to very light loads for me.

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

12 minutes ago, Go West said:

I got the LFCD for .38 Special after noticing crimps varied too much, some bullets actually spun by hand while most didn't. It didn't matter which headstamp was used and worked with groove or no groove bullets. I picked up another 650 which had Dillon .38 Special dies that seems to work just fine except for the decapper which I swapped in a Lee decapper. Backed out primers have been due to very light loads for me.

What was the expander diameter? 

That is not the FCD causing that.

[Go West]

My .38 brass supply is mixed head stamp which likely contributed to unequal crimps. The FCD solved that issue and there are no bulges or loose crimps anymore. I haven't checked the expander diameter and if it works, I don't see the need. I do .32, 9mm, Schofield, and .45 Colt but not all have a separate crimp die if they work without. Those are typically Starline.

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

1 hour ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Note, I never seat and crimp on the same stage.

Back in the SPG lube days, the one s/c die caused me much frustration with lube buildup in die making OAL shorter with every few loads.

Moly & poly coated bullets have sure eased some of old reloading aggervations.

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

1 hour ago, Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator said:

Back in the SPG lube days, the one s/c die caused me much frustration with lube buildup in die making OAL shorter with every few loads.

Moly & poly coated bullets have sure eased some of old reloading aggervations.

Why I went to Bearcreek moly-coated bullets for this game. 

[Vail Vigilante]

There are 3 variations of Lee crimp dies currently on the market and there always seems to be some confusion about them.

Fortunecookie45LC on Youtube has a great video where he contrasts all of them.

 

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

4 hours ago, Go West said:

My .38 brass supply is mixed head stamp which likely contributed to unequal crimps. The FCD solved that issue and there are no bulges or loose crimps anymore. I haven't checked the expander diameter and if it works, I don't see the need. I do .32, 9mm, Schofield, and .45 Colt but not all have a separate crimp die if they work without. Those are typically Starline.

I too load mixed maker brass in .38 special and have no loose bullet issues.

Strongly suggest you measure your bullet dia and expander die.

[Stump Water]

Lee FCD for many years for 45C & 38 Spl.

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

More BP testing today with additional crimp.   Dillon crimp was  just fine but does have a tad different appearance where crimping than Lee yet plenty tight.  I shot low end of T72f and my designation of upper.  Staying with less used  Starline brass seemed to tighten groups and show less primer movement than with older nickel brass..  Crimping in groove of truncated bullet as I have done for many years still impressed me more.  I realize sometimes a desire to have a certain bullet/powder combo just may not satisfy.  I will continue the testing but know for now what I have been using is the better combo.  I do not believe a change in crimp dies will make my desired combo work any better.  

Thanks to all

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

40 minutes ago, Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator said:

More BP testing today with additional crimp.   Dillon crimp was  just fine but does have a tad different appearance where crimping than Lee yet plenty tight.  I shot low end of T72f and my designation of upper.  Staying with less used  Starline brass seemed to tighten groups and show less primer movement than with older nickel brass..  Crimping in groove of truncated bullet as I have done for many years still impressed me more.  I realize sometimes a desire to have a certain bullet/powder combo just may not satisfy.  I will continue the testing but know for now what I have been using is the better combo.  I do not believe a change in crimp dies will make my desired combo work any better.  

Thanks to all

Wonder what the difference in volume is between the Starline cases and the nickel ones? 🤔

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

1 hour ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Wonder what the difference in volume is between the Starline cases and the nickel ones? 🤔

Doubt volume was issue but the less used (reloaded Xs) proved  Starline brass was better for the testing.  I'm cheap and just using quick throw-away stuff in first tests.   For match, brass would change situation entirely.   Not one to use new brass in major match but would choose brass of say 3-5x reloaded versus a lot I have that is probably 20-30x used. (Guess I hoard brass sometimes.) As to practice and non-major matches (for revolver) if no sign of splitting then use it.  Rifle is entirely different, use newer Starline.  Rifle is on test schedule next with the bullet combo I am wanting to use.  But, I bet I stay with what I have been successful using.  Testing can be fun but often frustrating as you surely know.  Your favorite and in my desired combination was another example of some disappointment.  Coming from a  shooting discipline needing accuracy still makes my criteria in loads perhaps a little "more than needed" for CAS but is a great metal satisfaction. 

[Flanigan Flats]

On 7/7/2026 at 5:42 PM, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Lee Factory Crimp Die has never let me down, have used them since they first came on the market. 

I 100% agree and second this. 

["Big Boston"]

In my experience, the LEE Carbide Factory Crimp Die is my go-to anytime I seperate the seating and crimping steps. Not to be confused with the LEE Factory Crimp Die for the 32-20, 38-40 and 44-40. Two different beasts. 

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

Over my many years of reloading I have accumulated LOTS of reloading paraphernalia and sure enough amongst all this was a Lee crimp die.  It is a seat crimp but with use of coated bullets it is worth a try.  Crimp does appear much different that Dillon but certainly worth the experimenting.  May take a little time for me to get use to the vacant station on the 1050.  

[Savvy Jack]

As far as "fhit ding, fhit ding", anything works that works.

If you just want the case to not bulge, just back of the crimp until it don't bulge.

 

If you want a bit more of a refined load technique, get a Redding Profile crimp die.

https://sites.google.com/view/44winchester/handloading/my-preferred-loading-method

 

Profile Left, LFCD right If you want a bullet designed specifically for the LFCD, check here: https://sites.google.com/view/44winchester/handloading/bullet-molds/modern-bullet-molds

 

Look for the 43-219M and 43-220CC

 

Edited July 10 by Savvy Jack

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

8 minutes ago, Savvy Jack said:

As far as "fhit ding, fhit ding", anything works that works.

If you just want to the case to not bulge, just back of the crimp until it don't bulge.

 

If you want a bit more of a refined load technique, get a Redding Profile crimp die.

https://sites.google.com/view/44winchester/handloading/my-preferred-loading-method

 

Profile Left, LFCD right If you want a bullet designed specifically for the LFCD, check here: https://sites.google.com/view/44winchester/handloading/bullet-molds/modern-bullet-molds

 

Look for the 43-219M and 43-220CC

 

Back the LFCD thumbscrew off 3/4 turn for the correct amount of crimp.

 

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

On 7/7/2026 at 8:29 PM, J. M. BROWN, SASS # 27309 said:

I have tried the Dillon and both Lee dies.  When i went to the 105s I had a problem with the Lee Factory Crimp Die and went and tried one of the Lee Regular Dies. I wound up using two of the regular dies, one as a seating die and the other as just a crimp die.. I did this for the rifle only as I only set the crimp where it will not catch on the chamber edge.

More that that and it bulges around the crimp and drags in the shell checker.

By using them separately, if I need to change something, I only have to adjust one thing.

 

JM

So you were using two LFCD separately.  One to seat and one two crimp?  I like that idea. 

Lee appears to only make the one crimp die and it does have the seating feature.  My experience with the LFCD was unless I put lots of bell on mouth it would often "drag" into final crimp.  Hope that makes since.  Seems to also do that with coated bullets as I can often spot shiny sliver of lead at crimp.  In the lube bullet days this was a terrible nuisance.

The Lee dies I am finding are not labeled as to crimp or seat.  By trying I find that it is both.  Perhaps the only way Lee made them.

Speaking of 38/357 only in this thread.

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

On 7/8/2026 at 1:44 PM, Stump Water said:

Lee FCD for many years for 45C & 38 Spl.

Lee # 90861 for 38 sp?

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

I must have had 4-5 busted sets of 38/357 dies in "die box",.  SO, before it gets 100 degrees I am off to my ranch range for more tests with ammo loaded from 1050 with final stations being RCBS seater then Lee crimp.  Crimp looks good and slides in and out of Dillon 38 sp full length checker gage.  Smooth at crimp/bullet-"bite" and edge of ogive of this 105, OAL of 1.485.