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Posted

Looking to possibly purchase an 1873 in the near future.

        Screenshot_20251006_104005_Google.thumb.jpg.94011c723f37d809b265c7ee2c718f92.jpg
Which one out of the box would run the smoothest without gunsmithing that you would recommend?

Winchester...

Uberti...

Taylor & Co...
Thanks

Posted

None of them will run the way they need to to be competitive in our game!  They ALL can use a bit of tuning!

 

My understanding is that the Winchester/Miroku offerings are closest to being useable, but even they can use some attention!

 

If you want one that is “race ready” , go to one of the gunsmith/dealers that offers guns that have been set up for the game!

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Posted (edited)

@Blackwater 53393,

 How do I find a gunsmith in my area that would have one, and are they previously owned, or new that have been tuned?

    I'm new to this aspect of purchasing this way. 

    Thanks. 

Edited by Father Kit Cool Gun Garth
Otto
Posted

I’m not familiar with what area you’re in!  
 

Long Hunter and Johnny Meadows immediately come to mind. I’m not certain, but I think Roughneck Rod does ready to use guns and there are several others that I can’t recall right away.

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Posted
16 minutes ago, Father Kit Cool Gun Garth said:

@Blackwater 53393,

 How do I find a gunsmith in my area that would have one, and are they previously owned, or new that have been tuned?

    I'm new to this aspect of purchasing this way. 

    Thanks. 

 

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Posted

@Sarge,

Thanks. 

  • Florida - Gun Craft Inc. - Dave Smith, 2102 24th St. S.E., Ruskin, FL 33570 (813) 645-3828

He's in the Tampa area of the State.

 

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Posted
13 minutes ago, Blackwater 53393 said:

I’m not familiar with what area you’re in!  
 

Long Hunter and Johnny Meadows immediately come to mind. I’m not certain, but I think Roughneck Rod does ready to use guns and there are several others that I can’t recall right away.

 

Not to be ignorant, but do i purchase the rifle, send it to say Johnny Meadows, who slicks it up,  then mails it back to me?
Or does he purchase the rifle, slicks it up, bills me for the total and send it once payment is made?

Posted

I think that either is possible! If you buy from a gunsmith, you’ll either have to take whatever he has for sale or wait for him to order what you want and do the work.

 

It’s best to deal directly. You get first hand information that way.

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Posted

My first 73 was an Uberti "Competition Ready" in 357. It was short stroked from the factory and was smooth but a little stiff. I had our local smith do the work and the lever is almost too slick as it shoots faster than my brain functions. My second 73 was a Taylors done by Longhunter. Almost as smooth as my first but seems to keep me from running it too fast. If I did it again, I'd buy direct from a smith and save on the FFL and shipping fees. Either way, your gun will always outshoot you. 

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Posted

My Winchester/Miroku was smooth out of the box.  However, it is in a shop awaiting parts for repair.  Buy a Uberti from a reputable smith.  Taylor’s is a top notch distributor.

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Posted
2 hours ago, Father Kit Cool Gun Garth said:

@Blackwater 53393,

 How do I find a gunsmith in my area that would have one, and are they previously owned, or new that have been tuned?

    I'm new to this aspect of purchasing this way. 

    Thanks. 

Contact Shotgun Boogie or Ken Griner. They have new ones tuned for sale.

 

TM

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Posted

I bought my 1st 1873 rifle in 1987... It was a year old... maybe.  The original purchaser had broken an extractor and lost faith in the gun.  It was one of the 1st five Ubertis imported to the US in 45 Colt.  I bought it immediately after it was repaired under warranty.  I shot it for about 8 years when the extractor again failed... although this time it was wear, rather than a breakage.  I fumbled my way thru repairing it myself.  (New bolt assy.).  In 2008 I bought an Uberti "Steel Frame" 1860 Henry (I prefer the color casing to brass), and it was offered as a "deal" from EMF as one of his last rifle shipments from Uberti in 45 Colt.  Then, in 2014 I purchased another Uberti 1873, this time a Taylor's "Comanchero", an 18" ½-octagon/round barrel, also in 45 Colt.  Up to this point, these rifles were "roughly" stock.  I'd disassembled them and smoothed the stock lever and carrier springs as well as deburred/polished the carrier arm.   Around 2019 I purchased aftermarket "Slix" lifter & lever springs for all 3 along with a couple of the "Cowboy Shop" carriers to run the Cowboy45Special cartridge.  I also purchased two short stroke kits from Pioneer Gun Works, and proceeded to install them in the 1860 & Comanchero.  They're probably not as well done as if they'd been done by a competent cowboy gunsmith, (all the ones mentioned are more than competent)... but... they're way smoother and I can run them faster than when they were stock.  I mention this as cost is always a factor... and they're not difficult rifles to work on.  The '73s are easier than the '66 or '60 with their dovetailed sideplates.  But, that's really the only difference.  I figure if you can do a tune-up on an distributor equipped engine, change your own oil, replace wheel bearings and such, you can handle installing springs and polishing internal parts on a toggle-link rifle.  As far as a short stroke kit... the PGW kit comes with excellent instructions, and where I had questions, they were quick to respond and provide excellent advice and guidance.  I never was, nor will I be in the future, a top competitor, as that requires thousands of hours of practice, and then some more.  Equipment that is smooth to run is far more enjoyable than equipment that balks are running as fast as you want or suffers breakages.  Is mine as smooth as it could be?  Probably not, but it suits my speed and style.  And every once in a while I feel confident enough to press a little harder on the right hand pedal... equipment that responds instead of balks is a pleasure.  Good luck with your new rifle.

 

P.S.  Uberti... simply due to the aftermarket support and number of "speed" parts available.  I love my Miroku rifles, (I have 3, an 1886, & 2 1885s), but for main match fun, my Ubertis are great.

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Posted

The Winchester/Mirokus come with what can be described as a first generation short stroke, but can be further tuned with parts ( springs ) that are available on Shotgun Boogies' web site.  They can be short stroked even further and Cowboy Carty has done a bunch for shooters.  The Ubertis have been the most common ones used in the game as there are parts available to repair or "slick them up" while the Mirokus have, with the exception of the springs sold by Boogies, no easily obtained parts.  Unfortunately, while Pioneer Gun Works did sell a short stroke kit for the Mirokus, they stopped a few years ago as there were variations in the rifles, which made the kits difficult to install.

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Posted
2 hours ago, Windy City Kid said:

My first 73 was an Uberti "Competition Ready" in 357. It was short stroked from the factory and was smooth but a little stiff. I had our local smith do the work and the lever is almost too slick as it shoots faster than my brain functions. My second 73 was a Taylors done by Longhunter. Almost as smooth as my first but seems to keep me from running it too fast. If I did it again, I'd buy direct from a smith and save on the FFL and shipping fees. Either way, your gun will always outshoot you. 

 

@Windy City Kid 

     Just got a response from Jim who advised that he quit back in April to spend time with the grandkids. The website is for parts and supplies only. 

      Just an FYI.

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Posted

My opinion is you need to educate yourself a WHOLE lot more than just asking a random crowd of us "Which one out of the box would run the smoothest without gunsmithing".

 

I 100% agree with the previous statement that no retail gun from stores will be suitable for even a medium level shooter anymore.  Those are ALL "parts kit guns, already assembled" that have been tuned only a little, or maybe not at all.

 

The ONLY good, value-loaded way to get a smooth gun without having any work done after purchase, is to identify one of the smith's who will do a tune on a new gun before ever shipping to you.   The work will be added on to the price he can purchase the gun for.   And will ship it to your local gun smith/ FFL holder.  This will be an unused gun, fired only by the gunsmith to verify the quality of the work.   AND, you should be providing the gunsmith with any special requests you have so he doesn't just do a job that would satisfy himself (but most would probably be tuned better for the game than you can use right not).   Like - short stroked?  Light carrier?  Barrel length?  Stock - straight or pistol grip?  Checkered/laser checkering? Other than factory sights?  Find the smith, then have a long discussion about what he can do for you with whichever variation of 1873 gun you are longing for. 

 

If you can't answer a lot of those questions....you are not ready to start the purchase!   You may need to be shooting a few other folks guns FIRST to find out exactly what makes your game great.

 

And, I'll toss another suggestion of Ken Griner in Farmington, New Mexico for someone who does great work, fairly quickly, and very easy to work with.   Of course, he's probably out hunting this month.  

 

good luck, GJ

 

 

 

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Posted

 Buy one off the wire from one of the smiths alredy done !

Posted (edited)

Once you KNOW what you want, style, caliber, level of short stroke, etc., best buy a completely setup rifle from a cowboy gunsmith direct if you want new.  Packaging and shipping a purchased new rifle to that gunsmith makes little sense.  FFL and shipping costs etc. add up.  Who is liable for that slim potential for that new rifle is built with a manufacturing defect is another thing to think about.  You own it, but shipped to that cowboy gunsmith, now what??  

 

Once thing I can attest to. -  Unless you have access to a hydraulic press and other gunsmithing tools, plus like shopping for sources of the slick up parts and already have the experience tearing down and timing an 1873, best not build your own.  If you do build your own, you will not save any money but will gain the experience along with some hard lessons possibly.  That is the route I chose but already had many years of other type gunsmithing experience.  My goal was to understand this "gamer gun" and sources for cowboy speed parts, nothing else.  An 1873 is a very simplistic rifle design in general.  

 

One big question not to forget is caliber.  A 357 will save you money over a 45 Long Colt as far as ammo reloading expense goes.  Your call.  A brand new slicked-up rifle should run you less than $2,500 with all the bells and whistles top of the line.  Finding a used rifle on this web site for around $1,200 is another possibility.  It will not look like new for long if you play this game.  New gets you some technical support, however.

 

Uberti is the 1873 gamer gun.  Speed parts and replacement parts are available from multiple sources.  Winchester, not.  

Edited by Pb Mark
worded better
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Posted (edited)

Totally agree with the above.  Call Griner!  Get all the bells and whistles.  New sights, screw removable magazine end cap, tube liner if in 357, nice leather wrap, butt plate wrap etc.  It will hold value and if you never play this game, you will own one nice slicked up rifle with factory support and it will hold its value.  I have never spoke with Ken Griner but respect his work.  Then you will not own a Frankenberger or hand me down rifle that is often sold for a reason.  Not knocking the used rifles, but you are buying used vs professionally built new.  Enough from me.

 

Griner can and will answer all these little questions with appropriate questions back to you before building is my guess.  He will need to.

Edited by Pb Mark
added last sentence
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Posted
1 hour ago, Pb Mark said:

Once you KNOW what you want, style, caliber, level of short stroke, etc.,...

 

Which leads to a question.  Father Kit, do you know what type of '73 you want?  If you do, then disregard the question.  But if you're not sure, there's quite a few options.  From Uberti: round barrel carbines with carbine buttplate in 16", 19" .  Pretty simple.  For rifles with crescent buttstock, many more options: 18", 20" 24" , checkered pistol grip or smooth or checkered straight stock.  Octagon barrels and some have half-octagon.  

 

I'm pretty surprised that nobody has said go to a match and ask to try some rifles, that's a pretty standard response for "before you buy".   And people love showing off how smooth their guns are. :)

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Posted (edited)

I bought a used Miroku competition model 20” round barrel for our son. Only action work done was by the company. Used it for two years. Something went wrong inside. Couldn’t find parts to fix it. 
 

Bought a new Cimarron 73 sporting deluxw 24” full octogon barrel. Straight checked stock from a gunsmith here in New England. He worked his magic on it. Gun runs night and day compared to the Miroku. I spent under 2k on the new one.

 

For me the longer barrel made a huge difference for my shooting. 

Edited by Sheriff Dill
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Posted (edited)
28 minutes ago, Abilene, SASS # 27489 said:

I'm pretty surprised that nobody has said go to a match and ask to try some rifles,

 

 

2 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

 You may need to be shooting a few other folks guns FIRST to find out exactly what makes your game great.

See the above request I made to the OP.   GJ

 

 

Edited by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
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Posted

You're going to get a lot of different answers, but the best thing is to go to your club and speak to shooters that have 73's and ask questions.  I see that you shoot at Lake County Pistoleros, there are a lot of good shooters there that have slicked up 73, ask them questions and ask if you can handle their rifle so you will know which 73 configuration you want, ie barrel length, straight stock, pistol grip stock, caliber and who did the action jobs. Pretty much most of the shooters there are shooting a 73.   I shoot mostly with the SWFL Regulators and the OK Corral Outlaws.  If you ever in those club, I'll let you handle and shoot my 73.  I have a Brushpopper, half round/half octagon in 18 inch barrel pistol grip stock, 357/38 caliber.

 

Any of the mentioned gunsmith like Griner Gunworks is a good place to purchase one.  As far as gunsmith, choose the ones that works on cowboy guns and pretty much knows the game. You just have to figure out which configuration that will work best for you.  All Taylor's and Cimmaron are made by Uberti, Winchester/Miroku are made in Japan.  Good luck. 

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Posted

I recommend Shotgun Boogie. You can buy the short-stroked and smoothed version new from him. I have tried one of his, and you can work it with one finger. From personal experience, I would avoid an unknown cut and weld version. I also recommend going with a 20" barrel vs a 24".

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Posted

Something to think about - what are your expectations in Competition?  If you are realistically in "shoot, learn, have fun" mode it is one thing, just good guns that work.  If you have genuine ability and expectations of being in the winner's circle at some point, something else where top end slicked up guns can make the difference.  I simply wanted to improve incrementally from match to match.  I did slick up the sixguns myself, and had the '97 shortened, the old Winchesters just ran as they came to me.  Good luck, have fun!

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Posted (edited)

Yer in Lake County.. I winter down there.. There’s a huge club. I think in Tavares.. they shoot on Saturdays..

I see you live there..

There are some great “fast”  shooters there and know what their doing.. you can handle their rifles and get recommendations from them..

After a lot of checking for myself?? I got a Uberti Delux.. had curve in the stock

which fitted MY cheek better for sighting.. also Laser etching

on the forearm and the curve stock for better gripping..

18” Octagon barrel.. Super short stroked.. (but wish now I had got 3rd. Generation)

There are a lot of things YOU need to consider.. 

I bought it from Griners Gunworks.. He put together the rifle, cut the barrel to the length I requested and gave me advice and asked me questions.. He mailed it to my designated FFL..

I’m a happy camper ..

Rance..

Just saying..

Edited by Rance - SASS # 54090
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Posted

Shotgun Boogie does some fantastic work on the Uberti 73's. Not cheap...but damn good.

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Posted

Low time shooter here, only a couple years into this game.  But, my take, for what little it's worth, but, owning Marlin 1894s,Uberti 1873s and an Uberti 1894(rifle caliber).

 

Marling 1894 vs Win. 1873 Clones.  The 1873 'may' be capable of slightly quicker/smoother action,  BUT, ONLY with significant work, regardless of manufacturer.   Some will contend a Marlin is capable of >95% of what an 1873 can do and I agree with them.  And, the Marlin, at least the JM made ones, come out of the box closer to their ultimate potential.  The simple addition of a 1 piece firing pin and spring kit, with a bit of polishing to the actuating surface of the lever, does as much as most of us will require.

 

1873s start tight and need more work than the Marlin.

 

If I desired a minimal work entry point, I'd consider the Uberti 1873 Comp model.  Its short stroked, but, not as short as some of the aftermarket kits and has a shotgun style (flat) but instead of the metal crescent plate.  A bit of action smoothing/polishing and spring tuning and I'd consider it a good starting point.

 

From there, there are super short strokes, 1 piece firing pins, etc. available for Uberti made 1873s.  Not so much for the Winchester/Miroku.  But, out of the box, the Winchester/Miroku are a finer firearm.  Just not as easily hot rodded.

 

Not sure if you've seen this, but, it's worth a watch:  (I don't agree with him with regard to Marlin 1894s)

 

 

 

Posted
31 minutes ago, Longfoot said:

Uberti 1894(rifle caliber).

None such, AFAIK.  Talking about a Uberti 1886 clone?

Posted

Father Kit >

 

After all these replies, if you aren't thoroughly confused, you just haven't been paying attention.  GOOD LUCK IN your quest.

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Posted
5 minutes ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

None such, AFAIK.  Talking about a Uberti 1886 clone?

They started making them a couple years ago.  I just got a .38-55.

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