Another Rifle Question

[joachim slim]

I am going to buy a 45 colt lever action rifle. I cant decide between a Uberti Yellow Boy, Marlin Cowboy or a Henry. What are people's experiences with these rifles?

[Blackwater 53393]

What “Henry” are you considering??  It’ll make a difference in getting recommendations!

 

The Henry Big Boy is a stout rifle, but not well suited for SASS competition. I never had one!

 

The 1860 Henry replicas, (and they’re ALL replicas unless you have found an original from the Civil War era) are unique in how they work and a little more difficult to manipulate at competitive speeds. I’ve had one for nearly twenty years and it’s been thoroughly gunsmithed and short stroked. It has performed very very well with a minimum of maintenance.

 

The 1866 or “Yellow Boy” can be easily short stroked and there are many aftermarket parts that you can get to enhance performance. They can be made to run very smoothly and very fast! I have one of these as well.  It’s had most everything done to it that can be done and with the exception of a minor feed problem that was straightened out easily, it’s been a great rifle.

 

The Marlins are unfamiliar to me. I know several cowboys that swear by them and a few that swear at ‘em!  I also know four or more of the finest Marlin specialists in SASS! They fix ‘em and they shoot ‘em and they’re among the best in the game!

 

Don’t rule out the 1873!!  It’s one of the most versatile rifles and probably the most popular in our game!  Everything that can be done to a ‘66 can also be done to a ‘73!  Mine was so good that someone stole it!! But before they did, I won my share of buckles and plaques and a few big match category championships with it!

 

Go to a few matches and ask to try the rifles you’re considering! Folks will usually be happy to let you try them!

[Griff]

What Blackwater said.  I have 2 '73s in 45 Colt, a Marlin, an 1860 Henry by Uberti and a Rossi.  While it's been many years since I won anything... that 1st '73 was a big part of what I did.  

[Ol Salty Sailor]

Henry makes some good rifles but they are not good for Cowboy Action Shooting sports, I have one in .45 colt.

 

Marlin is probably best if you are going to shoot B Western but can be used for any category except Classic Cowboy.

 

I don't have an 1866 or 1860 but either would be ok for any category except B-Western.

 

I hope you enjoy which ever one you choose.

 

[Whitey James]

There are only 4 real options. 3 Winchester clones and the Marlin.

1866 "Yellowboy" (prettiest)

1873 (Most popular)

1892 

and then the Marlin 1894

I like the Marlin as well as the Winchester clones but I mostly shoot my 73's mostly since I started shooting Classic Cowboy. 

Unless you plan on shooting B-Western, you ca't go wrong with a '73

[H. K. Uriah, SASS #74619]

14 hours ago, Whitey James said:

There are only 4 real options. 3 Winchester clones and the Marlin.

There are actually 6.

Now, as to your original question, as others have said, which Henry?  The Henry Big Boy, while well made, is not for our game.   I have used one at a match as a loaner, and I could see all the plusses and minuses real easy.   And, for SASS use, the minuses are just too much.

As far as the viable options go...

1.  Reproduction of the 1860 Henry.   A very nice gun, with a slight learning curve.  You'll need to master the "Henry Hop" or get a spacer stick to make it not necessary.  But the coolness factor is off the charts.

2.  1866.  Also known historically as the "improved Henry," an all around good gun.

3.  1873.   The Gun that Won the West.  There is a reason why it's the most popular gun in our game.
Now, 1, 2, and 3 are, from the standpoint of the action, basically the same gun.  You can't go wrong with any of them.  For a Henry, I'd get an Uberti and not one made by Henry Repeating Arms simply for reasons of cost.  For the 66 and 73, again, go with the Uberti, not the "Winchesters" made in Japan for the same reason.  
4.  1892  The 92, generically, is a nice gun.  In .45 Colt, you really have only one choice, Chiappa.  This is a faithful reproduction of the original that is good to go right out of the box.  It is also the only one on the market that does not have a stupid modern safety on it.   Unless you can find an older one on the used market that does not have the safety, I'd stay away from the Rossi.  They are not perfect, but more than good enough.  You would want to consider having the action smoothed out a little, but that is not really needed.   The current production ones are very rough and have that horrid safety on top of the bolt that just looks terrible.   This makes them guns to be avoided.   The Japanese Winchesters are better, the actions are good, but they have a tang mounted safety and a rebounding hammer.   I would not consider one at all.

5.  Marlin.  I had a chance to use one at a match as a loaner once, an was pleasantly surprised.  Nod bad guns.  The only drawback is that a modern made one in .45 Colt will have the crossbolt safety.  That aside, they are very well made guns.  Avoid a Remington-Marlin.  Go with a Ruger-Marlin or a real made in Connecticut Marlin.  Actually, I don't know if Ruger makes it in .45 Colt.   Research will be needed.  

6.  The Lightning.   The Lightning is a love 'em or hate 'em gun.  The pump action is very different from a lever gun, but they are wicked cool, and very addictive.  If you are bitten by the Lightning Bug, you will find yourself wanting more and more.  The only one still in production is the Pedersoli.  I don't have one made by them, but by all accounts, they are excellent guns.   If you go used, avoid the Taurus like the plague unless you wanna send it to Lassiter and have him work his magic on it.  The Beretta is not much better.   USFAs are as rare as hens teeth, but by all accounts, well done.   Which leaves the AWA.   An AWA Lightning in .45 Colt is my primary Main Match rifle.  It remains the only gun I've shot a clean match with, and is what got me hooked on the Lightning.   Still available for reasonable prices on the used market, if you can find one, this is an excellent choice.  

So what do I recommend?   Personally, get a Lightning.   Give in to the Bug and join the passionate ranks of those who use this gun!   But, if you really want a lever gun, and based on your original options, I'd go with a 66.

Good luck.

Edited October 4 by H. K. Uriah, SASS #74619

[Rooster Ron Wayne]

1. Chiappa 92

2. Uberti 66

3.Uberti 73

4. Stay Away From The Jamomatic Marlin and The Henry Big Boy !

[Rye Miles #13621]

I’d go with a 73 

[Rance - SASS # 54090]

Of the rifle’s you listed..

“YELLOWBOY”

[Eyesa Horg]

I've been shooting a Marlin Cowboy Competition in 45 colt for 14 years . The chamber is generous, so a lot of blowby. When the timing is correct, there are no jams. Mine runs excellent! Ellie shoots a CB model in 357 with 38s and has had no issues in 10 years. These are both JM Marlins.

[Pb Mark]

If you are going to use it specifically for CAS, then Uberti.  Not a 66, an 1873.  A 66 would work though.

 

If you are going to use it for things other than CAS (plus for CAS), a new Ruger Marlin, not an older one.  Has Ruger service warrantee, sturdy for hot hunting loads, easy to pull the bolt and clean through the breech, can mount a scope if desired for hunting.  Not as fast of an action as a short stroked 66 or 73 though.  Still needs one piece firing pin and a few springs before suitable for CAS (opinion only).  Problem is that Ruger probably not making the classic 1894 in 45 Colt yet.  Just 44 Mag and 357 as far as I know.  Problem with Marlin other than the Ruger Marlin, there is zero factory service for JM and Remi built ones, and parts are hard to come by.  

Edited October 4 by Pb Mark
added stuff

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

Marlin 94, it's the KISS of lever rifles and easy to fix, when needed.

It's also the lightest of the rifles you mentioned. 

[Widder, SASS #59054]

If you're only gonna use it for Cowboy (SASS) competition, ya gotta consider a Uberti or Marlin.

 

If you're gonna load up some hot stuff and hunt deer and bear, ya better stick with Marlin, the 1892,  or the Henry 'steel' frame.

(just my opinion).

 

There are numerous GREAT gunsmiths that can slick up and short stroke the Uberti.

 

There are just a couple of GREAT gunsmiths that I would consider 'tuning' up the Marlin.

If you want a really fine short stroked Marlin, ya gotta stand in line for a 'Cowboy Carty' Marlin.

If you want a really fine, NON-short stroked, Marlin, the line is a little shorter to get a 'Widdermatic' from SLATER, at 'Slaters In-House Guns'.

Longhunter use to be at the top of my list, but he retired..... as did myself.

 

The .45 Colt is a great setup in the Marlin 1894, which I own 2 of them.

But I mostly shoot the hotter fodder in mine.   

 

ROOSTER mentioned above to ...'stay away from the jamomatic Marlin'.

Well, I hope his problem is soon fixed and he can become another 'HMO'.....  Happy Marlin Owner.  

 

God Bless,

 

..........Widder

 

 

Edited October 4 by Widder, SASS #59054

[Cheyenne Ranger, 48747L]

If you go with the Marlin, keep the screws tight.

 

 

[Eyesa Horg]

5 minutes ago, Cheyenne Ranger, 48747L said:

If you go with the Marlin, keep the screws tight.

 

 

A small dab of blue Loctite. 

They stay tight on Ellie's, only the carrier screw loosens on mine without Loctite.

[Edward R S Canby, SASS#59971]

I shoot both Marlins and ‘73s.  The Marlin is very easy to field strip and clean black powder fouling.  The Marlins have also extracted some split cases that would have seized up a ‘73.  I prefer a ‘73 when shooting smokeless powder.  They run a little faster for me.

[Jackrabbit Joe #414]

Got 73's, Rossi 92, use to have a Marlin Cowboy and it was a good one. When Beretta Renegade came out in 2009 I got a .357 and souped it up and its a great rifle for cowboy shooting

[Rooster Ron Wayne]

14 hours ago, Widder, SASS #59054 said:

If you're only gonna use it for Cowboy (SASS) competition, ya gotta consider a Uberti or Marlin.

 

If you're gonna load up some hot stuff and hunt deer and bear, ya better stick with Marlin, the 1892,  or the Henry 'steel' frame.

(just my opinion).

 

There are numerous GREAT gunsmiths that can slick up and short stroke the Uberti.

 

There are just a couple of GREAT gunsmiths that I would consider 'tuning' up the Marlin.

If you want a really fine short stroked Marlin, ya gotta stand in line for a 'Cowboy Carty' Marlin.

If you want a really fine, NON-short stroked, Marlin, the line is a little shorter to get a 'Widdermatic' from SLATER, at 'Slaters In-House Guns'.

Longhunter use to be at the top of my list, but he retired..... as did myself.

 

The .45 Colt is a great setup in the Marlin 1894, which I own 2 of them.

But I mostly shoot the hotter fodder in mine.   

 

ROOSTER mentioned above to ...'stay away from the jamomatic Marlin'.

Well, I hope his problem is soon fixed and he can become another 'HMO'.....  Happy Marlin Owner.  

 

God Bless,

 

..........Widder

 

 

Me too Brother  lol 

[Diamond Jake]

I can't really argue with any of the above posts.  I would add that the '66 Yellowboy is just a bit trickier to open the action to work on it and clean, compared to the simple side plates on the '73.  Not a big deal, but I eventually got tired of it and sold it.  There are a few other minor differences between the '66 and the '73, and you should do more research.  Someday I may get an 1860 Henry, but for now I'm sticking with my two '73s .

[Matthew Duncan]

My first rifle was a new ‘66 Uberti.  Shot it for some twenty years in stock condition with zero problems.  Two years ago I bought a second ‘66 Uberti in used condition and short stroked.  New ‘66 is my main match and old reliable is retired as a back up.

[Rooster Ron Wayne]

7 hours ago, Matthew Duncan said:

My first rifle was a new ‘66 Uberti.  Shot it for some twenty years in stock condition with zero problems.  Two years ago I bought a second ‘66 Uberti in used condition and short stroked.  New ‘66 is my main match and old reliable is retired as a back up.

I have been using all my long guns in stock condition. 

I only ever had one short Stroke 73 and it was the only one I sold. 

I have a Old 66 that has the lever safety on it like the modern 73's have .

But I will always be a 92 Man personally. 

Just Sayin 

Rooster 

[Joe LaFives #5481]

I like 73's - Marlin 1894's as well.   If you do get a Marlin - Before you shoot it, have someone in the know , stone the cam so that it is a bit less sharp and won't dig a grove in the carrier.  Then you won't need to worry about a Marlin Jam.  

[Cinch]

Original 66’s had more drop in the stock. Not as bad on the reproductions. I tire of the side plates when tuning one. Toggle link rifles won’t have the blow by on your glasses with cowboy loads.

 

A 92 should be the B western rifle as only one marlin was ever in a B western movie or TV show. They are great truck guns as you can shoot stout stuff in them. They just fit on a saddle too.

 

Marlins are super easy to take apart and reassemble. Easy to swap extractors and springs and won’t have that tab on the bolt break off because the carrier didn’t get relieved. I like my Marlin comp in .45.

 

If you find a NIB JM the price will be up with a 73 so that is a consideration too. 

When I go to a match I still use my bulged barrel 73.

 

 

 

[Joe LaFives #5481]

1 hour ago, Cinch said:

Original 66’s had more drop in the stock. Not as bad on the reproductions. I tire of the side plates when tuning one. Toggle link rifles won’t have the blow by on your glasses with cowboy loads.

 

A 92 should be the B western rifle as only one marlin was ever in a B western movie or TV show. They are great truck guns as you can shoot stout stuff in them. They just fit on a saddle too.

 

Marlins are super easy to take apart and reassemble. Easy to swap extractors and springs and won’t have that tab on the bolt break off because the carrier didn’t get relieved. I like my Marlin comp in .45.

 

If you find a NIB JM the price will be up with a 73 so that is a consideration too. 

When I go to a match I still use my bulged barrel 73.

 

 

 

There are at least six movies that had Marlins in them.  

[Rooster Ron Wayne]

Its kinda funny how the 92 was the fastest rifle in the game prayer to the short stroke kits invented for the toggle guns .

And Now everyone talks crap about the 92 like it's One step in front of a Henry Big Boy .

But most people repeat what they read and dont know for themselves at all.

The 92 slicked up is a fast rifle.

The average shooter Can Not out run the 92 rifle .

They can't keep there own timing down to run the gun consistently. 

The 92 is a excellent rifle .

[Boggus Deal #64218]

1 hour ago, Rooster Ron Wayne said:

 

The 92 is an excellent rifle .

It may well be an excellent rifle, but a 92 or clone of hasn’t finished in the top probably 30% at the national or world championships in the past 2 decades. 
And this is a speed game. 

[Joe LaFives #5481]

Wanted to add this about the Marlin Jam - great info

https://marauder.homestead.com/files/Marlin94Fix.html

[Whitey James]

Admittedly I have never shot a really slicked up 92, but the one I had was the slowest for me to run between my 73's and my Marlin. Plus, it was a PIA to reassemble compared to the other two so I sold it.

My 73's are in 45 Colt for Classic Cowboy and my Ruger/Marlin in 357/38 in case I want to shoot B-Western.

If I could only keep one it would be one of the 73's.

[Widder, SASS #59054]

To differ on the cause of the 'Marlin Jam' (letting that next round sneak onto the carrier), 

It actually occurs in the LOWER section of the carrier ramp before the snail cam reaches the area where the

notch occurs.

 

Think about it..... if that notch is causing the jam,  what's the difference between the notch or rounding off the edge

of the snail cam and therefore changing the dimensions the same?

 

Rounding off the snail cams sharp edge is a good idea, but basically just keeps that 'cut' from occurring in the

upper portion of the timing ramp.

 

The Marlin Jam occurs in the lower portions of the timing ramp due to wear of a few .000's 

 

Focusing on the lower portion of the timing ramp is the big reason I was able to create the Widdermajik, which is the

Marlin that will feed both the C45S (Cowboy 45 Special) and the .45 Colt interchangeably.

 

Marlin created the carriers of their rifle with slightly softer metal than the lever metal and therefore, the snail cam

will wear on that carrier ramp.  And it wears on the lower portion, which is the area most effected by timing, both good

timing and bad timing.   And, its the area where I put the 'Timing Curve' that is the heart of the 'Widdermajik'.

 

The 'Widdermajik' is the dual cartridge rifle, the 'Widdermatic' is basically the single cartridge setup, but when the

timing is set right, they will reliably feed 38spl/357 and 44spl/44mag.

 

For those who might not know, I spelled 'Widdermajik' with the letters 'AJ' in respect to Adirondack Jack, who

is the creator of the C45S cartridge.    AJ is aware of this and he and I frequently talked when I was setting

up (creating) the 1894 for the C45S and .45 Colt cartridge.

 

..........Widder

 

Edited October 19 by Widder, SASS #59054

[Rooster Ron Wayne]

5 hours ago, Boggus Deal #64218 said:

It may well be an excellent rifle, but a 92 or clone of hasn’t finished in the top probably 30% at the national or world championships in the past 2 decades. 
And this is a speed game. 

And 90% of the shooters are NOT at the Top of the game ! 

So that means 90% of the shooters could shoot the Number One TV Cowboy Rifle ever made and Not loose a single spot they are at right now 😂🤣😂🤣

 

[Dapper Dave]

That's me. I'm a fat old man - I will never win a belt buckle at any match, just small pins with my local club, and I am fine with that. I'm just here for a fun time. My Heritage 92 "Rossi" works just fine, only things I did was replace that full buckhorn with a Marbles flat rear sight with the diamond facing forward to be SASS legal, and add some leather. This light and handy rifle hasn't failed me yet. 

 

Now someday I will get a '73, just because. 

[Joe LaFives #5481]

21 hours ago, Widder, SASS #59054 said:

To differ on the cause of the 'Marlin Jam' (letting that next round sneak onto the carrier), 

It actually occurs in the LOWER section of the carrier ramp before the snail cam reaches the area where the

notch occurs.

 

Think about it..... if that notch is causing the jam,  what's the difference between the notch or rounding off the edge

of the snail cam and therefore changing the dimensions the same?

 

Rounding off the snail cams sharp edge is a good idea, but basically just keeps that 'cut' from occurring in the

upper portion of the timing ramp.

 

The Marlin Jam occurs in the lower portions of the timing ramp due to wear of a few .000's 

 

Focusing on the lower portion of the timing ramp is the big reason I was able to create the Widdermajik, which is the

Marlin that will feed both the C45S (Cowboy 45 Special) and the .45 Colt interchangeably.

 

Marlin created the carriers of their rifle with slightly softer metal than the lever metal and therefore, the snail cam

will wear on that carrier ramp.  And it wears on the lower portion, which is the area most effected by timing, both good

timing and bad timing.   And, its the area where I put the 'Timing Curve' that is the heart of the 'Widdermajik'.

 

The 'Widdermajik' is the dual cartridge rifle, the 'Widdermatic' is basically the single cartridge setup, but when the

timing is set right, they will reliably feed 38spl/357 and 44spl/44mag.

 

For those who might not know, I spelled 'Widdermajik' with the letters 'AJ' in respect to Adirondack Jack, who

is the creator of the C45S cartridge.    AJ is aware of this and he and I frequently talked when I was setting

up (creating) the 1894 for the C45S and .45 Colt cartridge.

 

..........Widder

 

Really interesting.  

[Widder, SASS #59054]

It is interesting, no doubt.

 

One of the reasons that most folks think that 'notch' is the gremlin that causes the Marlin Jam is because

when they fix (build up) that notch and smooth it up, they have also built up that whole ramp, either by

a good TIG weld or with the JB Weld/sawblade method.   Therefore, they have fixed their timing problem.

 

Another 'misguided' fix is the 'heating and bending' process.  A person can heat up the front section of the

carrier (almost cherry red) and bend it slightly upwards.  This process does fix the Marlin Jam.....BUT sometimes,

it causes a worse situation.   When bending up the front of the carrier, the 'TONGUE' is also being set to

come up higher.   The TONGUE is that portion that hangs down on the very front of the carrier.  And its the

TONGUE that keeps the next round in the portal and prevents it from shooting out UNDER the carrier when

the carrier rises up to the chamber entrance.   When that 'tongue' portion isn't at its proper length,

there's nothing to keep the next round in the portal (or mag tube as some would call it).

 

 

I've fixed a few (not many, but a few) Marlins that had a badly worn tongue, rounded tongue, or trimmed

down tongue buy having my welder pro put me a glob of weld on those tongues so that I could

lengthen and reshape them correctly........including one of mine that had some badly rounded edges.

 

And a badly rounded edge on a .32 is more critical than a .44 or .45 because the rims are so small.

 

Just thought I would share more of my experiences.

 

..........Widder

 

 

 

[Griff]

On 10/18/2025 at 10:54 PM, Widder, SASS #59054 said:

Focusing on the lower portion of the timing ramp is the big reason I was able to create the Widdermajik, which is the

Marlin that will feed both the C45S (Cowboy 45 Special) and the .45 Colt interchangeably.

 

..........Widder

When you say "lower", are you referring to the rear portion of the ramp, as it's mounted in the rifle?

[Widder, SASS #59054]

Howdy Griff.

 

The 'lower' part of the ramp when its out of the rifle..... The area that aims towards the front of the carrier.

 

Basically, the timing on the Marlin is simple, yet can be complex because its more than just the ramp on

the bottom of the carrier.

 

The INITIAL timing on the Marlin 1894 occurs during the down stroke of the lever, which ONLY makes the

carrier rise about a 1/4 of an inch (.25)

The downward movement of the lever causes the snail cam on the lever to roll upwards on that carrier ramp.

 

Before I go further, let me explain what happens during the downward stroke of the lever.

If you remove your bolt and put the lever back in the rifle, put a dummy round in the rifle thru

the loading gate.  That round appears to be held by the loading gate but in reality, that round

is being held in position by the lever inside the receiver.  AND...that round is already about 1/2

way on the carrier.

As you lower the lever, the round will follow the lever back and drop down on the carrier

when the lever get vertical in the receiver.  At the same time, the front of the carrier

has to rise enough in order for the front of the carrier to block the rim of the next cartridge

immediately as the preceding bullet tip clears the portal.

 

Slow timing is beneficial for longer cartridges and Fast timing is beneficial for shorter cartridges.

Thats why many Cowboys have better performance with .357 length ammo then they do with

.38 length ammo....when the timing ramp has worn a little and the timing has slowed in its

INITIAL rise.

 

The SECONDARY timing on the Marlin 1894 occurs during the upward stroke of the lever.

The timing ramp on the bottom of the carrier has nothing to do with this SECONDARY timing.

Anyhow, the upward stroke of the lever causes the carrier to rise upwards to the chamber.

This rising of the carrier is created by the plunger in the carrier riding on the flat portion of the lever....(that flat

section that extends out from the edge of the snail cam.

 

Anyhow, the height the carrier rises and the duration it stays up is in direct relation to the plunger stud in the carrier

riding on that flat section.   Usually, this is only about 1/4" and sometimes less.

I've seen a couple Marlins where the carrier popped up to far and caused the round to miss the chamber.

Oddly, if a carrier pops up too far, with enough force, the wings on the carrier can hit the top of the receiver and

'bounce' downward enough to cause the front of the carrier to misalign with the chamber.

 

When someone is having issues with their ammo not feeding well into the chamber, the things I mentioned above

are just a couple of things needed to check before trying to fix the problem.

 

Sorri for being long winded but one of my biggest fears is hoping I explain Marlin stuff that's easy to follow.

 

Hope you are doing well.

 

..........Widder