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Posted

I've got a Cimarron that has a couple chambers that are tight. One of them is so tight that it can't easily be used. I'm not going to spend $100 or more on a chamber reamer that I'll need only once. Similarly, I don't want to pay a gunsmith the same amount to do it. Any suggestions?

Posted

Trying to save money can be expensive.

 

Bite the bullet (sorry).  Get expert help, or invest in the reamer.  I would get the reamer if it were me.

 

  • Like 3
Posted

Following.....one of Jenorado's Vaqueros has a tight chamber.  

Posted (edited)

Bite the bullet and bring it to a gunsmith or use it as a 4 shooter!

Edited by Rye Miles #13621
  • Haha 1
Posted
34 minutes ago, Rye Miles #13621 said:

Bite the bullet and bring it to a gunsmith or use it as a 4 shooter!

dittos this , its a lot of hassle without all the proper tools 

  • Like 1
Posted

Paint inside really tight chamber and make that one the skip one every time.

 

Or fix it

  • Like 1
Posted

What about a dingleberry hone and some lubrication. 

Or 

Some polishing compound and a mop .

 

Screenshot_20250917_062139_Photos.jpg

Screenshot_20250917_062155_Photos.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

I had Taylor’s Smoke Wagon that needed one of the chambers honed. It was brand new. I sent it back and got it in two weeks. They paid for shipping as well.

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Rooster Ron Wayne said:

What about a dingleberry hone and some lubrication. 

Or 

Some polishing compound and a mop .

 

Screenshot_20250917_062139_Photos.jpg

Screenshot_20250917_062155_Photos.jpg

This a really good fix. If the chambers are not too tight you might try sandpaper wrapped around a mandrel and lubed with WD40. I have used this method to loosen up shotgun chambers,

Lucky :D

Posted (edited)

One of our old flattop Blackhawks had chabers so tight I had to use it as a cartridge gage and was setting aside about half my reloads for other guns.

I bought a Lee Factory Crimp die and never had a problem again.

It may be called a crimp die, but it resizes straight wall cartridges.

Edited by Crisco
clarity
Posted

Pay the money and have the gunsmith fix it up. Easy answer. 

 

When I was casting my own 38s, I would shoot them as cast in my Ubertis, no problem. I gave some to a buddy, and he couldn't chamber them in either of his Ruger Blackhawks. Took the bullets back, ran them through a 357 sizing die, and he was able to chamber them with no problem. An alternative would be to determine the chamber dimensions you're working with and set up a sizer that allows you to resize the bullets to your required dimensions. Of course, this could cause issues if your chamber throats are way tighter than your barrel. But that's a different story. 

Posted
16 hours ago, Sgt. C.J. Sabre, SASS #46770 said:

I've got a Cimarron that has a couple chambers that are tight. One of them is so tight that it can't easily be used. I'm not going to spend $100 or more on a chamber reamer that I'll need only once. Similarly, I don't want to pay a gunsmith the same amount to do it. Any suggestions?

Have you tried factory ammo?

Posted

Have you verified you aren't just using very soft brass? My cimarron MWNN conversion did NOT like magtech 38 brass. Every other manufacture could eject without a problem, but the magtech brass would get stuck. Didn't matter the load, even light loads of BP, they'd be stubborn. Something to look into if you're hard-pressed to spend any money on chamber reaming.

Posted

Have this issue with both pairs of my usfa's. Using starline brass and 105's r not usually an issue but 125 or 127 coated or non become an issue. Have a slix spring chamber scraper but doesn't help. Not an issue with my rugers. Always thought it was because of their tight manufacturing tolerances. But....?

Posted

C. J.

 

You can make a simple "Flap Sander" from a wood dowel.  Cut a slot crosswise, use 600 grit wet/dry folded to sand on both sides.  Chuck it up an a cordless drill motor and run it back and fourth at low speed.  About 4 passes at a time. TEST.  after 8 passes, fresh sand paper.  When you get where you want to be, Switch to 1000 grit and polish a bit.

  • Like 1
Posted
21 hours ago, Crusty Knees said:

They are certainly making them Gorilla Tough these days.

I have new Uberti Bolt assemblies, one for 45/44-40 and one for .38.  Both have the link pin in place so tight I can't budge them.  It might as well be welded in place for all the progress I've made trying to take out the pins.

Is there a secret to removing them?  I've soaked them in Kroil, bent a punch, and used Boogie's nifty block for counter pressure.

Don't have any reliable gunsmiths in my dinky, hole-in-the-wall town.

I'm willing to send them off to a gunsmith if anyone is willing to take on such a small job.  However, it's a big job for me, and I'm willing to pay someone to do it.

 

CK

 

I feel your pain. Picking up an arbor press in he morning

Posted (edited)

I'm assuming the gun is out of warranty.  You should call Cimarron anyway.  An under-spec chamber is not something that happens from wear and would have been present when new, so you never know they may say send it in.  Good luck.

Edited by Abilene, SASS # 27489
  • Like 3
Posted
23 hours ago, Sedalia Dave said:

You can rent reamers.

But you can't rent the skill to use them.  Find a pro....warranty is the best way.....or bite the bullet and find a good smith to do it.

  • Like 2
Posted

I’ve been down this road with a pare of nickel plated Uberti 38s. Buy a new finish reamer from Brownels and chase all 6 chambers using lots of light oil. Flush the chips out frequently so they don’t Gaul the surface. A new sharp reamer will do a great job turned by hand and will produce smooth chambers and throats. 
The other option is to have a Smith do it for you.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 9/16/2025 at 10:48 PM, Doc Shapiro said:

You have 3 options that I can see:

Get a reamer and fix it.

Send it to a gunsmith to fix it.

Send it in for warranty work.


Son has a Cimarron revolver that developed problems about a year after he purchased.  Sent it to Cimarron for repair.  Took 3 or 4 months (understand they outsourced it).  Came back fully repaired.  Son’s only cost the shipping to Cimarron.

Edited by Matthew Duncan
  • Like 1
Posted
12 hours ago, Abilene, SASS # 27489 said:

I'm assuming the gun is out of warranty.  You should call Cimarron anyway.  An under-spec chamber is not something that happens from wear and would have been present when new, so you never know they may say send it in.  Good luck.

This.  I know you probably spent $600+ on a firearm but if you need something that a professional can do, I guess you can just bite it and have it done.  You can try what the other pards have suggested and see if that will fix it but at your own risk or have it fix and spend the money to have it done the right way.  You can always call and find out how much it will cost to ream your cylinder.  Good luck.

Posted
On 9/17/2025 at 6:27 AM, Lucky R. K. said:

This a really good fix. If the chambers are not too tight you might try sandpaper wrapped around a mandrel and lubed with WD40. I have used this method to loosen up shotgun chambers,

Lucky :D

Keep in mind that WD-40 is intended to be a moisture displacer and not really a lubricant.  It's much better to use a high quality gun lubricant intended for honing.  Brownells and others sell those products. 

But importantly,  keep in mind that honing as described is imprecise and results will not be parallel cut as with a reamer.   That's a recipe for a lot of blow-back gasses and the metal erosion damage that they can gradually accomplish.   I would not recommend honing on a revolver or rifle chamber.  

Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Dusty Devil Dale said:

Keep in mind that WD-40 is intended to be a moisture displacer and not really a lubricant.  It's much better to use a high quality gun lubricant intended for honing. 

As in many other cases, there is more than one way to skin a cat. I have described a process I have used for shotguns and pistols for years. The results of the process has always been successful. You do it your way and I will continue to do it mine. Do you really believe that the zillions of cans of WD40 are bought just for water displacement?

Lucky :D

Edited by Lucky R. K.
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Lucky R. K. said:

As in many other cases, there is more than one way to skin a cat. I have described a process I have used for shotguns and pistols for years. The results of the process has always been successful. You do it your way and I will continue to do it mine. Do you really believe that the zillions of cans of WD40 are bought just for water displacement?

Lucky :D

As you said, "You can continue to do it your way".  (I promise not to lose too much sleep.) 

If you choose to, you can look up and  read (or not) the manufacturer product spec's for WD-40.  If honing pistol chambers works well for you, then I encourage you to continue. 

 As for me, I'll use precision reamers or have an experienced gunsmith do it and preserve the firearm's value. 

 

Edited by Dusty Devil Dale
  • Like 1
Posted

My post was not intended to change anybody's mind about the way they do something.  I was explaining a method that has worked well for me on several occasions. I don't think I have any precision equipment in my shop.

Lucky :P

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