Reloading Station Design Review

[John Kloehr]

I would prefer to have a dedicated reloading bench, but don't have the space. I have mocked up an idea to mount the press on a platform I can clamp to my work table. Suggestions and input (good or bad) appreciated.

 

The oak piece is a pre-made stair tread. I thinking to glue an additional very dry flat board under it (strength) and bolt the press down with fender washers and nuts underneath. Clearance holes in the second board will keep the hardware from sticking through. C clamps to hold it down to the table.

 

If I limit the width to 21 inches, I can take a strip of oak from the cutoff to make the board just a bit deeper; This allows full-size fender washers.

 

Please excuse the mess in my gun area.

 

 

[Sedalia Dave]

Use these to secure the press to the board. I use them on my workbench and have been exceptionally pleased with how they perform

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KT43MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

[Sedalia Dave]

I'm also a big fan of the quick change strong mount from Inline Fabrication

 

 

They come in three heights plus a flush mount version.

Edited January 21 by Sedalia Dave

[Eyesa Horg]

Looks good. The table will probably be weak link though. If it's good and sturdy will be ok for making due.

[Tex Jones, SASS 2263]

I can't tell the depth of the underlying table, but you might need at least one c clamp on the left side to stabilize the stair tread.  Ideally, the c clamps should also be on the rear of the stair tread, but I would guess that the table is too wide.  There may be some play if the table isn't strong (heavy) enough to prevent movement.

[Randy Saint Eagle, SASS # 64903]

Why not countersink the the hole the depth of bolt head and put it in from the bottom with wing nuts on the top? I agree with Tex, you’ll probably need a clamp or two on the back. 
 

Randy

[Sedalia Dave]

24 minutes ago, Eyesa Horg said:

Looks good. The table will probably be weak link though. If it's good and sturdy will be ok for making due.

 

Unless that table weights the proverbial ton it is going to move around as you cycle the press and cause lots of issues.  Recommend that you use a 2" angle bracket and attach it to a wall stud.  You wouldn't think that little bracket would make much difference but it definitely does.

 

I also agree with the others that you are going to need a clamp at the rear of the board.

[John Kloehr]

I'll consider reversing the bolt direction from the bottom. Might also then not need to drill all the way through the wood I'll laminate underneath the stair tread. Also will be easier to check for and correct loosensing.

 

I do think through-bolts with fender washers will be stronger than the threaded anchors. I have used those anchors in the past. They are handy.

 

Yes, the clamps... I have been looking at various clamps, I found some available with 8" and 12" reach, but the opening size is less than 3". Need a minimum of 6-3/4" jaw opening to clear the apron under the table edge. It is basically a dining/kitchen table.

 

Edited January 22 by John Kloehr

[Colorado Coffinmaker]

I remember some years past, on the "Brian Enos" forum where some apartment dwellers were building their reloading set up into a small closet.  Whatever Works!!

[Eyesa Horg]

1 hour ago, John Kloehr said:

do think through-bolts with fender washers will be stronger than the threaded anchors. I have used those anchors

Those anchors will work well in oak. My bench is a double layer of plywood. I used the anchors for a mount location mid way on my bench. I have a few loaders and other accessories like trimmers all mounted on small plywood boards. Using knob clamps to hold whichever device I'm using down. Has worked well and leaves me a lot of bench room when just using the permanent loaders.

Edited January 21 by Eyesa Horg
Fixing my buddy otto

[Sheriff Dill]

Is the table your mounting something that you use and don’t want holes in? 
 

If you don’t mind holes in it you could always drill holes through the oak tread through the table and bolt it to the table when using press. That way you wouldn’t have to worry about it moving around. 

[Abilene, SASS # 27489]

Piling lots of heavy stuff, like bullets, on the table will help.  My 550 is clamped to an old Black&Decker Workmate.  With the work surface closed, it is the perfect width for the Dillon strong mount, with one c-clamp on each corner and it is heavy enough to stay put, though I do put my hand behind the press and pull as I push the lever forward to prime.

[Longfoot]

You may find that you have to somehow anchor the far end/side of the board your press is mounted to.  I know I did.  It depends on what cartridges you're loading, the degree to which they're being resized and neck tension.

 

When I had only the near side of my rig clamped to the overhang of my work bench, as I levered down on the press handle, the far side of the board would lift and place considerable strain on the near edge of my bench.  It was all point loading at the location of the near clamp.

[Tex Jones, SASS 2263]

Jorgensen clamps might work.  6", 12", 24" 36"

Edited January 21 by Tex Jones, SASS 2263

[Will Kane]

2 hours ago, Abilene, SASS # 27489 said:

Piling lots of heavy stuff, like bullets, on the table will help.  My 550 is clamped to an old Black&Decker Workmate.  With the work surface closed, it is the perfect width for the Dillon strong mount, with one c-clamp on each corner and it is heavy enough to stay put, though I do put my hand behind the press and pull as I push the lever forward to prime.

If you have the table space to accomodate them, a couple of 25 lb. dumbells would do nicely.

[watab kid]

5 hours ago, Abilene, SASS # 27489 said:

Piling lots of heavy stuff, like bullets, on the table will help.  My 550 is clamped to an old Black&Decker Workmate.  With the work surface closed, it is the perfect width for the Dillon strong mount, with one c-clamp on each corner and it is heavy enough to stay put, though I do put my hand behind the press and pull as I push the lever forward to prime.

im also mounted to an old B&D workmate , i have four presses mounted to it three on one side for rifle and handgun and a PW on the other side for shotgun , ive doubled down on the deck surface with multiple plywood layers and i use thru bolts with washers and wingnuts so i can remove if need arises , i put plywood shelf under for materials , bullets weigh that down some , 

[Perro Del Diablo]

19 hours ago, John Kloehr said:

I'll consider reversing the bolt direction from the bottom. Might also then not need to drill all the way through the wood I'll laminate underneath the stair tread. Also will be easier to check for and correct loosensing.

 

I do think through-bolts with fender washers will be stronger than the threaded anchors. I have used those anchors in the past. They are handy.

 

Yes, the clamps... I have been looking at various clamps, I found some available with 8" and 12" reach, but the opening size is less than 3". Need a minimum of 6-3/4" jaw opening to clear the rail under the table edge. It is basically a dining/kitchen table.

 

I had some machinist experience when in high school. These clamps are called deep throat c-clamps. There are more sizes available but may be expensive. 

[John Kloehr]

1 hour ago, Perro Del Diablo said:

I had some machinist experience when in high school. These clamps are called deep throat c-clamps. There are more sizes available but may be expensive. 

I found this 8" reach 12" opening (out of stock):

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00081YR3C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

 

Would require a block to make them work under the table yet still clear the table apron. Also there is a 12" reach version, also out of stock.

 

Still hunting...

 

Edited January 22 by John Kloehr

[John Kloehr]

21 hours ago, Tex Jones, SASS 2263 said:

I can't tell the depth of the underlying table, but you might need at least one c clamp on the left side to stabilize the stair tread.  Ideally, the c clamps should also be on the rear of the stair tread, but I would guess that the table is too wide.  There may be some play if the table isn't strong (heavy) enough to prevent movement.

It is surprisingly sturdy, a Danish design that has served me well for decades.

[John Kloehr]

20 hours ago, Sedalia Dave said:

 

Unless that table weights the proverbial ton it is going to move around as you cycle the press and cause lots of issues.  Recommend that you use a 2" angle bracket and attach it to a wall stud.  You wouldn't think that little bracket would make much difference but it definitely does.

 

I also agree with the others that you are going to need a clamp at the rear of the board.

I have an alternative bench in another room I could use, and could secure to the wall. It is my electronics bench. Will see how stable the first choice is as I would rather keep all my gun stuff in one area. Not that this hobby could not take over the house...

[John Kloehr]

20 hours ago, Sheriff Dill said:

Is the table your mounting something that you use and don’t want holes in? 
 

If you don’t mind holes in it you could always drill holes through the oak tread through the table and bolt it to the table when using press. That way you wouldn’t have to worry about it moving around. 

Really rather not drill the table. Even going to the effort of felt to minimize scratching.

[Randy Saint Eagle, SASS # 64903]

I wouldn’t worry about the table, my loading bench is a piece of 3/4” plywood with legs from an old folding table and it has worked fine with my Dillon 650 for 15 years..  30 years ago a friend loaded with a Dillon 650 mounted to an old folding card table.

 

Randy

[John Kloehr]

17 hours ago, Will Kane said:

If you have the table space to accomodate them, a couple of 25 lb. dumbells would do nicely.

Most of the dumbbells I know weigh several hundred pounds... 

 

Oh, you mean using something like boxes of ammo! 

[Will Kane]

34 minutes ago, John Kloehr said:

Most of the dumbbells I know weigh several hundred pounds... 

 

Oh, you mean using something like boxes of ammo! 

Those would work, too . . . if you could get them to sit still long enough. You'd need a whole lot more table space than I was imagining, though. 🤣

[Griff]

While I'm not constrained by space (much), almost all my reloading gear is mounted thru a flat edge section of counter top glued to a ¾" marine plywood.  Every machine is mounted thru both pieces using T-Nuts to anchor the equipment to.  I have a 3 spots that are spaced so that pieces that I don't have permanently mounted can be mounted on an "as-needed" basis.  Things like a trimmer, primer pocket swager & powder measure.  To keep debri out of the holes when not in use, I slightly counter sunk the top of the counter top and use counter sunk screws to keep a flush top. 

 

I use a Hornady 336 to load my BP shotshells and it's mounted on a Craftsman "Work-Mate" using a formica covered  piece of marine grade ¾" plywood C-clamped in place with the press mounted to that using the same T-Nuts.   

 

[Buffalo gus]

May not be the best picture but my press is mounted on a piece of 3/4” plywood with 3/8” carriage bolts from the bottom. Then it’s held to the butcher block counter top by c-clamps. This works decent enough until I have the room for a dedicated bench. The press stays firmly in place even full lenght sizing 45/70 and other bottle neck cartridges. 

[John Kloehr]

I may have identified a 180 pound dumbbell... Me.

 

After about an hour cleaning this up a bit:

 

 

If I set up at the short end of the table instead of the long side, I can easily clamp front and rear, and mount a bracket to the wall so I can clamp the other end of the table for stability (extendable leaf pushed back in):

 

 

I might have to use smaller washers at the front of the press, should still be able to use the large fender washers at the rear. I had planned to cut the stair tread in half and add a strip to the part I would keep. Now looking at keeping it wider.

Edited January 22 by John Kloehr

[John Kloehr]

Considering the last picture above, for right-handed reloaders...

 

Would you mount the press in the center, more to right, more to the left? And why?

 

I'm thinking move it a little to the right and sit in the middle.

[J.S. Sooner, SASS #73526]

A couple more c clamps and it should work.  One suggestion is mounting height.  I started out loading sitting, then mounted my presses higher to operate while standing.  I also have an articulating light positioned so I can see powder level as I load. 

 

[J.S. Sooner, SASS #73526]

With the press mounted on the strong mount the original ejected cartridge/chute/bin bracket isn't used.  I added it on the left side of my press, mounting with one hole on the left rear strong mount bolt.  With it in this location, I utilize a bin to hold bullet heads closer to where you are going to use them.  Looks funny, but works.

 

[J.S. Sooner, SASS #73526]

22 minutes ago, John Kloehr said:

Considering the last picture above, for right-handed reloaders...

 

Would you mount the press in the center, more to right, more to the left? And why?

 

I'm thinking move it a little to the right and sit in the middle.

I work with less room than you have on both sides as shown.  I have 2- 650''s and 1 - 550 on a 6 foot workbench, side by side.

[Chancy Shot, SASS #67163]

If it was me, I would use 3/4 plywood under the stair tread instead of poplar.  I would move the press to the right.  When I am loading, all the stuff seems to be on the left.  The only thing on the fight is the bin to catch the completed round.

 

(No matter what you do, after a 1000 rounds you will figure out how you should have made it. 🤠 )

 

Chancy

[Griff]

My press is mounted so I can sit on a bar stool and load.  As a right handed loaded, I sit to the left of the press so the handle is to the right of my right leg.   The only thing around my press is my bucket of clean brass on the right, bullets and powder scale on the left.  

[Ozark Huckleberry]

I’ve loaded a bunch of ammunition on a 550 that was just fastened with wing nuts on a piece of 2 inch pine mounted to studs in the back wall of the garage, so I comprende the value of a make-shift loading bench.  At the end of the reloading session I unfastened it and stashed it in a nearby cabinet. Your idea with clamps looks like it would work, if you can stabilize the back end of the board you’re mounting the press on.  
 

An added benefit of your set-up is you have the ability to fairly easily set it up at the range to develop loads, if that would be something you chose to try. 

[Sgt. Hochbauer, SASS #64409]

I have my most used presses  a Dillon 450,550, SDB mounted on a dedicated work bench. But also have a few that are mounted like Buffalo Gus is showing and then use a pair of C clamps to hold secure on another bench. I have also done that with my shotgun presses but they are now mounted on their own separate bench. Lastly all of my benches at one time or another had holes drilled in them to fit a particular press that I was in need to use at the time. They sort of look like swiss cheese with all of the holes.

 

Hochbauer