Skiddsteer1 Posted January 4 Posted January 4 Good evening pards! What would you say is the proper tension (or lack of it) for the extractor on top of the bolt for an 1873 rifle? I have been having occasional three point jams. One coming from the magazine tube, another unfired on top of that and finally one fired in the chamber. I suspect that when I go to check it out shortly I might find dirt/grit under the extractor. What do YOU think? Thanks Skid. Quote
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted January 4 Posted January 4 First thing, flush out the area under the extractor with brake cleaner. Then cycle test.... 2 Quote
Go West Posted January 4 Posted January 4 It needs to snap over the rim, too much slop and it may bounce over it when it should extract the shell. Clean and check. 1 Quote
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted January 4 Posted January 4 Tension I use is about 8 pounds on a trigger pull gauge pulling up on the tip of the extractor while mounted in the bolt, using a small loop of wire to connect the gauge hook and the tip of extractor. With bolt open far enough that the nose (tip) will clear the barrel relief cut for the nose of extractor. Now, that's the precise way. What works good enough for me is to open the bolt so your finger tip can pull up from under the tip, putting pressure right into your finger tip. If the extractor lifts up higher than the top of the bolt and it does not really hurt your finger tip, you don't have enough tension any more. But, as said above, the most common problem is the fouling that builds up under the leg of the extractor, and the tip can not lower itself far enough to fully seat over the rim. Check that visually with a dummy round or fired round. If fouling is light, it can usually be flushed out with a spray can of gun solvent and the "straw" that came with the can, while you pull up the extractor up to open the gap. If heavy, then you have to knock out the extractor holding pin and clean out the groove the extract sits in. (Requires removing bolt from action - major disassembly). Some folks need a "bolt holding block" to hold the bolt for punching out that 1/16" diameter pin (as well as a good steel 1/16" punch. I can do it just putting the bolt in a brass jaw vise. It is a fiddly bit of work replacing and fitting (lightening) a replacement, so you may want to seek out your gunsmith to do this job. I find on my main match guns I replace the extractor after about 3 years of hard use. GJ 4 1 Quote
Griff Posted January 4 Posted January 4 I tried replacing the extractor on my 1986 Usberti '73 once upon a time. I ended up replacing it with an assembly from VTI. This was about 4 years after I acquired the rifle from the original purchaser after he'd had the extractor replaced once already. (1st year he owned it, I bought it in 1987). It's the only time I've broken an extractor in the 3 Uberti rifles I have. Must not be using them as hard as I used that 1st one. Quote
Skiddsteer1 Posted January 4 Author Posted January 4 GRIT was under the extractor. Rifle runs and shoots fine now. I love fixing my guns. 4 2 Quote
Go West Posted January 5 Posted January 5 Jim Bowie replaced my extractor and showed me how he did it at Winter Range one year. It's still chugging along. Thank you Jim for all you do. 2 Quote
Marauder SASS #13056 Posted January 5 Posted January 5 14 hours ago, Go West said: Jim Bowie replaced my extractor and showed me how he did it at Winter Range one year. It's still chugging along. Thank you Jim for all you do. So he is not only good with knives, but . . . 2 Quote
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