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Posted

What is a great knife sharpener brand.  I see tons with all sorts of promises, but no warranty or negative customers comments.

 

Don't need a razor sharpness.  I prefer a chef's sharpness

 

Don't want any stones, ceramic sticks, or other such. I already have all of those I can use but none do a really great job.

 

I'd like to keep the price under $100.00 if possible.

 

What say you all?

 

Thanks.

 

4T

 

 

Posted
2 minutes ago, Cypress Sun said:

Lansky

 

Inexpensive and easy to use.

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-System/4242367

Ditto. This is what I use plus I added a couple diamond hones.

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Posted
16 minutes ago, Forty Rod SASS 3935 said:

What is a great knife sharpener brand.  I see tons with all sorts of promises, but no warranty or negative customers comments.

 

Don't need a razor sharpness.  I prefer a chef's sharpness

 

Don't want any stones, ceramic sticks, or other such. I already have all of those I can use but none do a really great job.

 

I'd like to keep the price under $100.00 if possible.

 

What say you all?

 

Thanks.

 

4T

 

 

 

That means you're doing it wrong.   Either not enough strokes on one grit before moving to the next finer, contaminating finer grit with coarser grit by not wiping the blade when you transition, or not holding a consistent angle. Orca combination of those.  Most common error is drawing the blade across the stone and then rolling it as you lift - the way you see barbers television shows dulling straight razors on a strop.

 

That out of the way,  a couple of years ago I bought one of these

 

https://a.co/d/5bDtl1A

 

Screenshot_20241223_083747_AmazonShopping.thumb.jpg.268eaddeebf1ea34ee13ce36f70a3674.jpg

 

Under $30.  Works rather well. 

 

 

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Posted

I bought some 8"X10" glass plates and have various grits of wet-or-dry sandpaper spray-glued on. I did this for far more than knives, but do sharpen my knives on them.

 

I find this better than sharpening stones as they are always flat and far larger than any stone I could afford.

 

Did have to learn to sharpen blades, the multiple angles, grinding to develop a "wire" and removing it from the other side. 400 to 800 grit is plenty for for kitchen knives. I maintain the edges with a steel for a while, re-hone a blade when it starts to require more than normal force.

 

The tools I have seen do look handy and quick, but the edge they produce does not last long. Still for a quick edge, a tool in the kitchen drawer is much faster than my plates.

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Posted

Turn a ceramic coffee mug over.

 

Use the exposed unglazed ring. Medium grit ceramic rod.

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Stump Water said:

 

Link didn't copy, so... Work Sharp.

That was why I was asking.  It looks good but gets lousy ratings on some sites.  Maybe I'll try it.  It isn't all that expensive and one of their ads states that I can use it to sharpen axes and chisels, etc.

Edited by Forty Rod SASS 3935
Posted
12 hours ago, Forty Rod SASS 3935 said:

That was why I was asking.  It looks good but gets lousy ratings on some sites.  Maybe I'll try it.  It isn't all that expensive and one of their ads states that I can use it to sharpen axes and chisels, etc.

 

I'll guess the lousy ratings are from people that don't use it right.  I'm sure you could wreck a blade in a hurry with that thing... no different than any other power tool used for removing material.

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Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Forty Rod SASS 3935 said:

Look at my third line.

Did you see how the Lansky system works?

 

Description - How to use

https://onlyknife.com/how-to-use-lansky-knife-sharpener/

 

Video - How to use


 

I like to use the Lansky base that helps hold everything together and lessens the chance of you springing a leak. 
https://a.co/d/aIXFDZ7
 

There’s also a bolt down base. 
https://a.co/d/gV6DFAt

 

 

 

Edited by Pat Riot
Frighin’ Otto x2
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Posted (edited)

Good point.  

 

I'm pretty good with power tools....except saws.  Saws, both power tools and manually operated, hate me.  I've turned a lot of good lumber into chips, splinters, and sawdust

 

A friend had a sign made for my work area :  I don't know what's going on, but I've cut it off four times and it's still too short.

Edited by Forty Rod SASS 3935
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Posted
7 minutes ago, Pat Riot said:

Did you see how the Lansky system works?

 

Description - How to use

https://onlyknife.com/how-to-use-lansky-knife-sharpener/

 

Video - How to use


 

I like to use the Lansky base that helps hold everything together and lessons the chance of you springing a leak. 
https://a.co/d/aIXFDZ7
 

There’s also a bolt down base. 
https://a.co/d/gV6DFAt

Did you read the part where I said I don't want any manual tools of any kind?  :rolleyes:

 

I can sharpen a knife (or an axe, chisel, tomahawk, shovel, straight razor, scissors, and almost anything else with an edge or a point) as well as most and a lot better than some.  I DON'T WANT TO. I'm old and lazy, so there.

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Posted
21 minutes ago, Forty Rod SASS 3935 said:

Did you read the part where I said I don't want any manual tools of any kind?  :rolleyes:

 

I can sharpen a knife (or an axe, chisel, tomahawk, shovel, straight razor, scissors, and almost anything else with an edge or a point) as well as most and a lot better than some.  I DON'T WANT TO. I'm old and lazy, so there.

With that restated, consider finding a professional and drop em off. Pay the man/women, done. No real manual labor at all except the drive!

Posted
39 minutes ago, Marshal Mo Hare, SASS #45984 said:

Ahhh, nothing manual! I don’t think there’s anything under $100 that’s worth looking at. I have some that I’d sell but I don’t want the hassle.

I agree. 

Posted
11 hours ago, Eyesa Horg said:

With that restated, consider finding a professional and drop em off. Pay the man/women, done. No real manual labor at all except the drive!

I did and won't.  I've owned cars that cost less than a drawer full knives would cost if I had them sharpened by a pro.

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Posted

I have used a Lansky for over 35 years and have been happy with the results. Unfortunately, I helped a fellow cowboy order a new one on Amazon (he hates buying stuff online). The clamp has been redesigned and it doesn't hold the knife blade nearly as well as my much older model. 

 

I have the one Subdeacon Joe mentioned and works well for an inexpensive simple sharpener (the Amazon link is below). I prefer my Zwilling butcher's steel, but even my "knife impaired" wife can get a decent edge on her favorite paring knife with this sharpener. 

 

Amazon.com: Chef'sChoice 4643 Manual Knife Sharpeners 15 and 20-Degree for Serrated and Straight Knives Diamond Abrasives, 2-Stage, Gray: Sharpening Stones: Home & Kitchen

 

I've spent the last 5 years picking up used Zwilling and Wusthof German cutlery for pennies on the dollar at estate sales.  Now that I'm retired I have the time to get them sharp and upgrade my collection of kitchen cutlery.  That sent me down a long "rabbit hole" with sharpeners and I purchased two Work Sharp sharpeners (the company Will Kane mentioned). I got the Ken Onion model power sharpener with extra sanding belts and the top manual model. I'm pleased with both, but I could have bought a moderately priced handgun for the amount I have spent. I also acquired a 4 sided wooden and leather knife strop and the stropping compounds they recommended. (JRE Industries Strop Bat, Four-Sided Paddle Strop with Pre-Loaded Compound - KnifeCenter). I've gotten very good at putting a nice edge on expensive kitchen cutlery hunting and pocket knives. The knife strop listed above has enabled me to get my blades shaving sharp better than anything I've ever used before.

 

One last sharping thing I discovered. I investigated sending a number of the Zwilling Henckel knives I had back to Zwilling for their factory sharping service. I had several good knives that had tip damage or minor chips in the edge from their previous owners. Zwilling uses the Knife Aid company in California (knifeaid.com). They do better than original factory sharpening and can fix minor damage.  I was blown away by what an awesome job they did on the knives I sent them. They're also very reasonably priced and will also sharpen other types of knives.

 

 

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Posted

I completely forgot that I bought a set of these a few years ago. I mostly use them on work knives that need a quick sharpening. 
They’ll do 15, 20 & 30 degree edges. 
 

https://a.co/d/f50AgM4

Posted
17 hours ago, Forty Rod SASS 3935 said:

I did and won't.  I've owned cars that cost less than a drawer full knives would cost if I had them sharpened by a pro.

Thinking about what you wrote and yeah, my sharpener did cost more than my second car. (Not adjusted for 55 years inflation though)

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Posted

The easiest to use and did the best for my unskilled, so called talents is the SPIDERCO sharpener: Four stones, mounted in a carry case that set themselves up in pre drilled holes and are idiot proof for me.

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Posted
25 minutes ago, Cold Lake Kid, SASS # 51474 said:

The easiest to use and did the best for my unskilled, so called talents is the SPIDERCO sharpener: Four stones, mounted in a carry case that set themselves up in pre drilled holes and are idiot proof for me.

I have one of those.   Don't find it be very special.

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Posted

Speaking as someone who spent 50+ years making a living as a butcher, I believe the best knife sharpening system is a good set of oil ( or high grade water) stones and a medium or fine "grit" steel 

(The term "steel" is  generic . Good ones can be made of steel, diamond coated steel, or ceramic).

It does take practice but once you learn the proper technique, your knives last longer, your edges can be tailored to the task at hand, and it's  much easier on your hands and wrists . 

A set of quality stones aren't very expensive,  and with proper care and usage can last many years.

All.of this, of course, IMHO.

Choctaw

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