Problems - Slix Springs in my 1873 44-40

[Red Oak]

Can't get Slix Springs to work in my 1873 44-40.  Currently running them in my two other 1873's in 38.  Finger lever side installed with no issues, functions as expected and per isatallatoion instructions.  On the lifter arm side, spring installs just fine and I can work the action as expected.  However, there is little to no spring pressure holding the carrrier down.  Turn the rifle over and the carrier falls over 1/8 of an inch toward the bolt, it's just loose.  I can easiy push the carrier up from the bottom with no resistance.  I'm sure it's me, but after doing two other rifles 2 years ago was expeting this one to go smoothly.    Any thoughts.

[PaleWolf Brunelle, #2495L]

Contact SliXprings regarding troubleshooting issues.

[Abilene, SASS # 27489]

"Some fitting required" - did you bend the wire to get more tension?  I also was not able to get those springs working when I recently tried them for the first time.  The carrier spring had insufficient tension as you describe, and when I bent it just enough to keep the carrier up then it seemed it had too much tension.  I couldn't find a middle ground.  So I decided to mess with it later and went back to my "poor man's" method of adjusting the stock spring tension with the mounting screw which has never failed me.  The instructions do mention something about a gunsmith!

[Red Oak]

I did play with bending the spring per installation instructions, but it didn't seem to help.  When compared to the factory spring, the Slix Spring looks a tad short in length.  I'll fiddle with again this morning.

Thank you

Red Oak 

[TN Mongo, SASS #61450]

Of our family's 5 Uberti 73s, four work well with Slix Springs.  One, however, is a problem child and has issues like your rifle. My very competent cowboy gunsmith explained dimensions sometime differ from rifle to rifle with Uberti 73s.  That rifle is now running well with tuned original springs.

[Red Oak]

Just spent another hour fiddling with it.  Gave up, put factory springs back in.  I may check with a local Cowboy Gunsmith and get an opinion.  I've done this on 2 other rifles with no issues, and they also required some "fitting" of the part.  Thought for sure I could get this one done, but not so.  Thanks for the responses.

Red Oak

[Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933]

These springs are relatively foolproof but anything can vary.  The gun, the springs, both.  If you loosen the sideplate does it work?  Sometimes what can happen is the spring is pinched between the lever or lifter arm and the sideplate(s).  In this photo the side plate is on the side with the purple arrow.  The green arrow is pointing to where the spring touches the lifter arm.  Sometimes the leg is a few thousands too long and the spring can get pinched when the sideplate screw is tightened.  Solution?  Remove a little material from where the green arrow is pointing.  Just something to think about.

 

 

[Red Oak]

11 hours ago, Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 said:

These springs are relatively foolproof but anything can vary.  The gun, the springs, both.  If you loosen the sideplate does it work?  Sometimes what can happen is the spring is pinched between the lever or lifter arm and the sideplate(s).  In this photo the side plate is on the side with the purple arrow.  The green arrow is pointing to where the spring touches the lifter arm.  Sometimes the leg is a few thousands too long and the spring can get pinched when the sideplate screw is tightened.  Solution?  Remove a little material from where the green arrow is pointing.  Just something to think about.

 

 

Hey there Larsen,

Yep, had to clean up burrs on the end then remove just a little for fit, not much.  I'm curious, where / what position should the spring tab be resting on the lifter arm when the action is closed?  Seems like the factory spring sits further back on the lifter cam surface than the Slix Spring part.  I'll be cleaning my main match rifle this weekend so will be comparing the two.

[Ol Number4]

Not only can you "bend" the spring leg for more tension  BUT you will probably need to bens the spring "tab"  forward or rearward, to see that it fits over the top of the lifter lever  cam so it forces the carrier down better.

 

BTW,  I have never found a 73 or 66 which could not be improved with a bit of bend at the tab for better effect.

 

Good luck,

 

Ol' #4

[Red Oak]

1 hour ago, Ol Number4 said:

Not only can you "bend" the spring leg for more tension  BUT you will probably need to bens the spring "tab"  forward or rearward, to see that it fits over the top of the lifter lever  cam so it forces the carrier down better.

 

BTW,  I have never found a 73 or 66 which could not be improved with a bit of bend at the tab for better effect.

 

Good luck,

 

Ol' #4

This:  "BUT you will probably need to bens the spring "tab"  forward or rearward,"  Talked with Pat today, this appears to be my issue.  He sent pictures of his rifle and sure enough, I need to bend the spring tab more toward the trigger to be in correct position. Will work oon it again this weekend.

 

[Ole Tan]

Hey Red Oak- I’m having an issue with my slix springs as well. When you say bend the spring tab forward or rearward, do you mean straightening the 90 degree bend at the end and then shortening or lengthening and then adding a new bend?

Or bending it the existing 90 laterally? 

any advice is appreciated. Thanks 

 

[Red Oak]

8 hours ago, Ole Tan said:

Hey Red Oak- I’m having an issue with my slix springs as well. When you say bend the spring tab forward or rearward, do you mean straightening the 90 degree bend at the end and then shortening or lengthening and then adding a new bend?

Or bending it the existing 90 laterally? 

any advice is appreciated. Thanks 

 

Sent you a PM

[High Spade Mikey Wilson]

On 10/3/2024 at 9:43 PM, Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 said:

These springs are relatively foolproof but anything can vary.  The gun, the springs, both.  If you loosen the sideplate does it work?  Sometimes what can happen is the spring is pinched between the lever or lifter arm and the sideplate(s).  In this photo the side plate is on the side with the purple arrow.  The green arrow is pointing to where the spring touches the lifter arm.  Sometimes the leg is a few thousands too long and the spring can get pinched when the sideplate screw is tightened.  Solution?  Remove a little material from where the green arrow is pointing.  Just something to think about.

 

 

This happened to me. I kept filing the end of the spring until the side plate no longer interferred with the spring and it works fine now.

[Rye Miles #13621]

When my springs came in I was reading the instructions and said some fitting required. Off to the gunsmith it went. He had to do some bending and filing. Took him about an hour I was actually there the whole time watching snd helping a little. 

[Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933]

A lot of gunsmiths charge more if you stay and "help."

[German Jim]

On 10/3/2024 at 6:43 PM, Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 said:

These springs are relatively foolproof but anything can vary.  The gun, the springs, both.  If you loosen the sideplate does it work?  Sometimes what can happen is the spring is pinched between the lever or lifter arm and the sideplate(s).  In this photo the side plate is on the side with the purple arrow.  The green arrow is pointing to where the spring touches the lifter arm.  Sometimes the leg is a few thousands too long and the spring can get pinched when the sideplate screw is tightened.  Solution?  Remove a little material from where the green arrow is pointing.  Just something to think about.

 

 

Exactly!  That's what I had to do on mine many years ago.

[Palo Verde, SASS # 56522]

On 10/5/2024 at 1:36 PM, Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 said:

A lot of gunsmiths charge more if you stay and "help."

 

Rates at least double! 😉

[El Sobrante Kid]

The best sign I ever saw, read, "Shop Rate, $xx/Hr., Double if you want to watch, TRIPLE if you want to help"

[Red Oak]

Problem solved, had to bend the short leg at the 90 degree turn to sit further rearward (toward trigger) on the lifter arm cam area,  First photo is factory spring, second is example rifle with spring installed, third is my rifle with spring adjusted to be in correct contact area on lifter arm cam.  I'm no expert / nor skilled gunsmith, but I did talk with Slix Springs and this is working.  

Regards

[Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933]

You also got first hand advice from Ol Number 4 who is Mr. Slixsprings.

[Ole Tan]

Thanks Red Oak. This is super helpful. Will give it a shot. 

[Ol Number4]

The other issue that prevents proper fit is that the cam lobe is worn on the lifter lever.

 

The replacement is designed so you can use a small 1/2 round file to re-cut the can profile and then bend the tab so it fits like the picture in the instructions.  Oh yes.,  look at the "instructions".  They really are simple to read.

 

Thanks for letting me reply.

 

Ol'  #4