Felt Cowboy Hat for Matches and Every Day Use

[Gray Gunz]

Having recently discovered my love of the Old West I am interested in getting a nice good quality hat that I could be proud to wear at a match and around town. 
I am confused by the X ranking system and have no idea what X I need to standup to everyday use, and match use. I am not opposed to spending a good amount of money on a hat that will last. I just don’t want to the waste my money. 
Please help!

Edited August 26 by Gray Gunz
Can’t type

[Chief Rick]

There is no standardization on what "X" means.  Each maker assigns the "X" value as they determine.  Even straw hats now have an "X" value.

 

Historically, the higher the "X", the more durable and more expensive a hat was.  The "X" designating the amount of beaver fur in the hat body.

 

A 10X had had 10% beaver fur and the majority typically rabbit fur.

A 50X had 50/50 beaver and rabbit, while a 100X was 100% beaver.

 

The more beaver, the more durable a hat typically is.

 

Recommend you got to D Bar J website and check out his hats.  He makes great hats in all price ranges.  I'm particularly fond of his Crappy Cowboy hats.

[Wild Eagle]

Look at Sombrero Brands and South Texas Tack if you're in south Texas.  Teske's if you're closer to DFW.  They have a good selection of felt hats at varying price points.  If you're close to Brenham, Brenham Saddle Shop has a lot of hats also, and if you buy one there, they will reshape it for free for the life of the hat. I think Sombrero does also, but I'm not sure.  If you're thinking of getting a light color hat, you may want to get a cheaper one for matches.  It will get stained by powder, especially black powder, and the stains don't come out.  That adds character but doesn't look too good for a night on the town.  Darker colors should be fine.

 

As far as what X value, usually anything over 30X will be a pretty good quality hat.  100X or as they seem to call them now 1000X are awesome, but they should be for the price.  I have a friend that buys 30X hats and takes them somewhere to have a 100X liner put in them.  He says it feels just like the high-priced hats, but he doesn't feel near as bad when it gets rained on.  He's a working cowboy so expensive hats don't really make sense for him.

 

My last piece of advice is to not go too cheap.  I have a 10X hat that looks fine, but feels like crap to wear so I hardly ever wear it.  Try a few on and you'll notice the difference as soon as you put it on.  The good hats fit like they're custom made for you, the cheap ones feel like it was made from a cereal box.  

 

You live in Texas, you should have no problem finding a cowboy hat close by.

 

[Cpt Dan Blodgett, SASS #75655]

Still wearing the Resistol I bought in Jan 71 when I came home from vietnam.  Bought it at the now defunct Butler and Sons Western Wear on a shopping trip with my dad

[Eyesa Horg]

I've got two Resistols in different colors. Same style and size, but one fits completely different even though the measure the same with a cloth tape! Maybe the odd feeling one just needs to be worn more. They are both 4X, but seem to be pretty thick and well made.

[Sedalia Dave]

I'll second the D bar J pure beaver (100X) hats.  I have 2, a silver Belly that is only worn for special occasions and a pecan colored one that is my main match hat. My main match has has been worn while shooting in the rain multiple times and is still in excellent shape.  All I have needed to do was let it dry followed by a little reshaping and it is good as new. I have other hats that I paid a lot less for that did not survive the first good rain storm.

 

The difference between a quality hat and any other hat is how well they stand up to being soaked. And before you say you are never shooting the rain know that if you shoot club annual, State, regional, or other multi day matches you WILL end up shooting in the rain. I've done it so many times that I lost count.

 

BTW Nothing is as challenging as shooting Frontiersman in a downpour

[I. M. Crossdraw, SASS# 8321]

I use felt hat that I bought from a Western store (don't remember the store name) and works for me and can be worn on a daily basis.  Cost me 35 dollars at the time.  Use to own them expensive hats and after a little while, the brim and crown gets misshapen.   Some felt hat have wire on the brim edge and can be reshaped and I am not afraid to accidentally sit on my hat, which I have done so in the past.   I prefer felt hat as there are also leather ones that gets too hot when worn under the sun.  Here in Florida, I don't think leather hats would work well.

[Sixgun Seamus]

I think I have eight hats of which five were custom made including two from DbarJ. One of those is pure beaver. I have different styles from different makers but they are all quality hats. The one I wear for shooting was a custom made inexpensive all wool hat from Knudsen Hats. I didn't want to spend a lot on a hat when I started. My hat was originally their "Deputy Billy" from their Tombstone collection. I have worn it for 12 years now, been rained on and reshaped more times than I can count. It lost most of it's original block but it transformed itself into my unique signature hat. People don't recognize me if I wear a different hat. It's as clean today as it will ever be meaning it's weathered and has "character". If you want something to shoot in but also wear for "steppin' out" then put some more money into your hat. As said before, dark colors are easier to maintain and won't show cartridge tracks. The real cowboys wore hats as protection and not so much for style and wore whatever they could get their hands on. One of my hats is a Tom Mix Stetson that I bought in 1980. I took it to a good hat shop years ago to have it stretched slightly. The guy asked me if I wanted it cleaned. I told him "No, it took me thirty years to get it looking like this."

[Blackwater 53393]

You’ll find that the pure beaver hat body is lighter in actual weight and usually is a thinner, stiffer felt.  Pure beaver hat bodies can be felted tighter and pressed tighter in the felting process.

 

It is also much more expensive, but with the cost comes far greater durability.  They are also nearly completely waterproof.  They are also harder to shape , but hold their shape much better.

 

I own several custom hats, one or more of each of the three actual grades.  The 15% hat that I wear most often is nearly twenty years old, has been soaked clean through, covered in mud, streaked with black powder cartridge tracks, and once caught fire for an instant when the fine fuzz was ignited by the fireball from one of my 1860 Colt replicas!  It’ll still clean up nicely and I usually touch up the shape and clean it every four or five years.

 

A quality hat is a tool and a statement.  You see a man’s/lady’s hat first.  If you know how to read it, a hat is liable to tell you a lot about the person under it, especially if they wear it all the time.

 

As a costume accessory, you can still see a little of the person behind the character.

 

If you know what your hat is, beaver, wool, or nutrea, you can take a little care and it’ll last a long time.

 

That pure beaver hat, if you don’t burn it up or cut it up, will still be good when your grandkids get it from your estate!!

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

Beware a wool content hat - any amount of wool.  Unfortunately, that is the mainstay of the "cheapo" hat sellers.  You will never be satisfied with a wool hat.

 

Folks above gave you a good review of the minimum (10% beaver) to the very best quality (100% beaver) hats.  I find it hard to get a hat now that is better than 50% beaver, what with the decrease in their population.  A good high-beaver hat will be north of $600, but will hold up to rain storms of a biblical proportion, and last a long time if maintained and kept out of hot parked vehicles (which shrink a hat).  A hat less than $300 would be quite suspect in quality.

 

So, find yourself the best LOCAL hat shop in your part of TX (should be several).  Ask at your SASS club (or the local farm/feed store if you don't have a clue). Get the best hat body you feel you can afford.  It can be reshaped into just about any shape you desire. And never get in the habit of picking it up by the front of the crown - you will pinch a hole in it.  Grab the brim or cradle the crown in your palm.  And that LOCAL shop - will (knock wood) be around to reshape or clean your hat over time.

 

good luck, GJ

 

 

[Go West]

I bought a vintage hat in Tombstone for $75. The felt is thin and stiff. I wear it for non-shooting activities.

[Rip Snorter]

For matches, any mid range name brand hat will last original purchaser forever.  My rancher friend wears hats from his Father and Grandfather.  Of course, made to order.  The mid range Resistol my wife gifted me with 35 odd years ago is finally failing after a lot of years use daily on the ranch. All depends on what matters. I have several made to order.  I don't wear them for work, but they are worth the price in enjoyment.

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

I have couple of D bar J hats and really like them, but Sassy and I both also enjoy our hats from Hat's Custom Hatters in Longview, Tx (noticing you are from Texas) and highly recommend Mike.

[Sedalia Dave]

I'll second Mike's Hatters in Longview.  

[Bugler]

Montana Law Dog Hats are supreme here in Montana! Randy is also a big SASS supporter.

 

Bugler

[Dapper Dave]

10 hours ago, Cpt Dan Blodgett, SASS #75655 said:

Still wearing the Resistol I bought in Jan 71 when I came home from vietnam.  Bought it at the now defunct Butler and Sons Western Wear on a shopping trip with my dad

Thank you for your service sir, and welcome home. 

[Dapper Dave]

4 hours ago, Sedalia Dave said:

I'll second Mike's Hatters in Longview.  

I will third that when mine shows up - the shop is closed until Sep 2nd for the Clinton, Arkansas Stagecoach Races. 

[Fleagle]

the Serratelli 7 X are pretty nice. I don't wear mine much any more. But they are good quality 

Edited August 28 by Fleagle
change wording

[Dr. Zook]

On 8/26/2024 at 1:30 PM, Cpt Dan Blodgett, SASS #75655 said:

... Bought it at the now defunct Butler and Sons Western Wear on a shopping trip with my dad

 27th Ave & Northern Ave...still have one of their wooden tokens somewhere 😀

[Rip Snorter]

20 hours ago, Bugler said:

Montana Law Dog Hats are supreme here in Montana! Randy is also a big SASS supporter.

 

Bugler

And a great guy - I have 3 of his hats.

[Gray Gunz]

Thanks everyone for your advice. I learned a ton! I pulled the trigger on a Law Dog Hats Cowboy Continental in a custom color, charcoal gray. I took your advice and ordered it full beaver. 
I plan on getting a brown hat either from them or one of the other makers you all suggested. 
After pricing everything I decided to go with a custom maker, as they were actually cheaper for what you get. 
I will post photos when I get it. He was kind enough to rush my order so I can wear it at the Comin At Cha banquet!

Edited August 28 by Gray Gunz

[Rip Snorter]

I had Randy duplicate a Brown hat I saw and photographed at Safari Club Vegas years back.  Perfect and a favorite.  When I see yours, if our tastes seem similar, I'll send a photo.

[Cpt Dan Blodgett, SASS #75655]

5 hours ago, Dr. Zook said:

 27th Ave & Northern Ave...still have one of their wooden tokens somewhere 😀

too cool

[watab kid]

i found my hat at a thrift store 20+ years ago and have worn it ever since , i had to adjust fit a little when i got it but its held up just fine - i had three to choose from , THE ONE I GOT  and two stetsons that were well worn , i like what i got well enough to never thinking of changing i dought ill outlive it any more  

[Grass Range]

On 8/26/2024 at 9:26 PM, Bugler said:

Montana Law Dog Hats are supreme here in Montana! Randy is also a big SASS supporter.

 

Bugler

Right on

[I. M. Crossdraw, SASS# 8321]

On 8/26/2024 at 8:28 PM, Sixgun Seamus said:

I think I have eight hats of which five were custom made including two from DbarJ. One of those is pure beaver. I have different styles from different makers but they are all quality hats. The one I wear for shooting was a custom made inexpensive all wool hat from Knudsen Hats. I didn't want to spend a lot on a hat when I started. My hat was originally their "Deputy Billy" from their Tombstone collection. I have worn it for 12 years now, been rained on and reshaped more times than I can count. It lost most of it's original block but it transformed itself into my unique signature hat. People don't recognize me if I wear a different hat. It's as clean today as it will ever be meaning it's weathered and has "character". If you want something to shoot in but also wear for "steppin' out" then put some more money into your hat. As said before, dark colors are easier to maintain and won't show cartridge tracks. The real cowboys wore hats as protection and not so much for style and wore whatever they could get their hands on. One of my hats is a Tom Mix Stetson that I bought in 1980. I took it to a good hat shop years ago to have it stretched slightly. The guy asked me if I wanted it cleaned. I told him "No, it took me thirty years to get it looking like this."

You can only wear one hat at a time, didn't you know.  But I'd be curious to see you wear all eight hats at one time, it might make you look taller too.😁

[Whitey James]

I recently bought a Stetson from a local store in Nashville. The manager of the place said it was a lifetime hat and I could bring it in any time to be shaped or trimmed. I think I paid about $160 for it and it is a 4X Buffalo series Drifter hat in the stone (gray) color. I'm pretty pleased with it and I didn't spend an arm and a leg.

[Dapper Dave]

My Mikes Custom Hatters bowler showed up - fits perfectly, very happy with it.