Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

I'm an idiot... Uberti rifle rear sight REALLY stuck


Idaho Spud

Recommended Posts

I was trying to replace my rear buckhorn sight with a flattop sight. I removed the old sight and noticed that the rear sight didn't fit into the dovetail slot.

 

So I sanded it, like many people recommend. And it started to go in, so I figure'd I'd punch it in from there. That was a horrible idea, as you can guess.

 

The rear sight is completely stuck. My attempts to punch it back out have only scraped and smushed the sight further. At this point I don't care if the sight is ruined, I just need to get it off the gun without scraping the rifle any more than I already have.

 

Has anyone dealt with this? I just feel awful, like how the hell did I get it so stuck...

 

 

 

IMG_20240621_190307_990.thumb.jpg.689655572c2c7393f0ca4180d467ddbc.jpg

IMG_20240621_190247_951.jpg

IMG_20240621_190232_524.jpg

IMG_20240621_184551_814.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know which way you got the other sight out, but it looks like you were trying to insert the new one from left to right.  It should be the opposite.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A $25 lesson- don't be lazy about filing the sight down!

 

Thanks Dilli, that did the trick! And yes Abilene, I had tried to put it in right to left when it got stuck

IMG_20240621_195405_496.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Idaho Spud said:

A $25 lesson- don't be lazy about filing the sight down!

 

Thanks Dilli, that did the trick! And yes Abilene, I had tried to put it in right to left when it got stuck

IMG_20240621_195405_496.jpg

 A surprising number of life's troubles can be solved by cutting them in half 

 

 

SideEye.png

  • Haha 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next time, use a brass punch, about 1/4" diameter (aka drift) and a reasonable size hammer.   Let the drift take the damage, not the sight or the barrel. 

 

Sights almost always install right to left and remove left to right.   Using standard orientation of the gun - as if you are ready to shoot it.  Looking from butt towards the muzzle.

 

When you are filing the bottom of the dovetail of the SIGHT to get it to fit, file as close to perfectly level and straight across.  Do not let the centerline "hump up" due to letting the file tip as you cut across.   And don't even try to sand the sight.  You want really good control of the metal you are removing.

 

When you can insert the sight base about 1/4 of the way into the slot just with finger pressure, THEN you can apply taps with hammer and punch.

 

good luck, GJ

Edited by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
  • Like 4
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And you're not an idiot.  Just inexperienced and, more importantly, lacking the proper tools for the job.  And even when you have the arguably proper tools, sometimes professional help is needed anyway.  A good gunsmith shouldn't charge more than beer money to tap in -- or out -- a dovetail.  I had to (sheepishly) ask my regular 'smith to tap out the factory-installed front blade sight on a Browning 1885 High Wall when no amount of my tapping with a brass drift punch would budge it.  Two guys, a properly padded barrel vise, a brass drift punch with a modified face that would not slip off the side edge of the dovetail (they had done this before!), and one good rap with a 5-lb mallet, and voilá, job done.  And yes, I gave the guys beer money.  

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Dilli GaHoot Galoot said:

Cut it across the middle of the dovetail (like in line with the scratches) with a hacksaw, you shouldn't need to cut all the way through

Or use a home gunsmith’s favorite tool, a Dremel.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Nostrum Damus SASS #110702 said:

And you're not an idiot.  Just inexperienced and, more importantly, lacking the proper tools for the job.  And even when you have the arguably proper tools, sometimes professional help is needed anyway.  A good gunsmith shouldn't charge more than beer money to tap in -- or out -- a dovetail.  I had to (sheepishly) ask my regular 'smith to tap out the factory-installed front blade sight on a Browning 1885 High Wall when no amount of my tapping with a brass drift punch would budge it.  Two guys, a properly padded barrel vise, a brass drift punch with a modified face that would not slip off the side edge of the dovetail (they had done this before!), and one good rap with a 5-lb mallet, and voilá, job done.  And yes, I gave the guys beer money.  

We all did it once....

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Matthew Duncan said:

Or use a home gunsmith’s favorite tool, a Dremel.

My gunsmith gives Dremel tools to his customers for Christmas. :D

 

Kajun

  • Like 1
  • Haha 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Mister Badly said:

Sights?

My local range (Bud's) requires all firearms have sights. It is one of the rules. No rule says you have to use them...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might also remove the sharp edges on the left corners of the filed down sight.  Keeps the corners from biting into the dovetail when knocking it into position.  

 

Also maybe paint the bottom flat surface of the area being filed down using a black sharpie.  Every few file strokes, measure the thickness, repaint with sharpie.  Provides a visual indication that you are filing flat.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.