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Update - Well poop... got hit tonight


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Driving home tonight my '02 Miata SE, Zelda, was rear-ended.

 

Quite dark out, driving in the middle of three north-bound lanes, speed approximately 65 mph when *WHAM* I was hit.  Rear-ended by a '20 RAV 4.  I have no idea what her speed was, but my lighter car was literally punted.  Momentarily lost control, but recovered; the hit was hard enough that the bluetooth earbud was ripped from my right ear and bounced off the back window.  I have a headache and a goodly sized knot on the top of my head from colliding with either the headrest or the convertible top frame.  image.png.f1977fbb65828654936575769361ce61.png

 

Also, the engine immediately died... more on this in a moment.

 

Not sure of the extent of physical damage just yet; the "tupperware skirt" is split, trunk lid bent in, and the quarter panels don't line up with the doors properly - hopefully repairable, as I love my li'l ride.

 

Now, back to the engine issue:  She did re-start later, after the responding CHP officer asked me if she was driveable.  However, when I tried to merge back onto the highway, the engine died after about 20 yards.  She'd restart, then the same thing.  Ended up taking her home on the back of a AAA truck.  :(

 

So, a question:  Might anyone know if this car has some sort of collision sensor(s) that would prevent it from running above an idle?  If so... is this something that can be re-set?  Or could the engine have been damaged... or perhaps the fuel pump?  Any thoughts appreciated.  

 

RodandZelda1123NewClutch.thumb.jpg.2df5d868c0af08e88369475d8a625bfb.jpg

Edited by Hardpan Curmudgeon SASS #8967
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I know ZERO about the car, but I'm glad you're not too badly banged up and I hope that you don't have a concussion.

I hope the other driver was charged.

Edited by Cold Lake Kid, SASS # 51474
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35 minutes ago, sassnetguy50 said:

 

Well... that was exciting for a moment.  The '02 is a Miata NB; unfortunately, the "B-series" that Autozone's part fits are pickups.  Evidently the good folk at Mazda elected to not include this switch in the roadsters.  :(

 

For what it's worth (not much, in this case!)  both my '99 Ford F-150 and my '01 Dodge Ram are equipped with the inertia switches.

 

But thank you for the research and link!  :)  

 

Edited by Hardpan Curmudgeon SASS #8967
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45 minutes ago, Cold Lake Kid, SASS # 51474 said:

I know ZERO about the car, but I'm glad you're not too badly banged up and I hope that you don't have a concussion.

I hope the other driver was charged.

 

She was.  Not ticketed, but charged with responsibility for the collision.

 

I actually feel badly for the woman who hit me; she was driving her severely Alzheimer's afflicted mom, and was evidently at her wit's end and distracted. (Mom thought the responding CHP officer was either her nephew or an old boyfriend; he was neither). That said, I am going to have myself some Tylenol and find a very soft pillow!

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1 hour ago, Hardpan Curmudgeon SASS #8967 said:

 

She was.  Not ticketed, but charged with responsibility for the collision.

 

I actually feel badly for the woman who hit me; she was driving her severely Alzheimer's afflicted mom, and was evidently at her wit's end and distracted. (Mom thought the responding CHP officer was either her nephew or an old boyfriend; he was neither). That said, I am going to have myself some Tylenol and find a very soft pillow!

You’re a better man than I am Gunga Din!!:P

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Glad to hear you weren't seriously hurt.  Sorry to hear about your baby.  Hope your injuries aren't serious.  Rest up and take care of yourself.  Hopefully, you'll be able to fix Zelda up easily and be back on the road again soon.

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After watching numerous car crash videos, I did notice that the windshield wipers and emergency flashers seem to come on in many of them. So something is affecting electrical components.:wacko:

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Had someone in a big pickup hit my Magnum at a light.  The nice young guy in the truck ticketed and responsible, I think he was fighting with his GF on the phone.  Severe damage, but drivable.  Insurance company totaled it out but I kept it.  I had to look around for a body shop that would work on it, but found one that did an unbelievably good job, not perfect but cosmetically excellent and for less than insurance (eventually - Oct to Jan!) paid.  I love the car, and will be driving it as long as I can.  Don't give up, you can probably find a good body shop.  Good luck! You might want to get a checkup, head injuries are no joke.

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Wife and I are looking at various cars for when our granddaughter graduates from high school.  Supposedly some Subaru have a sensor that detects if you are about to hit the car in front of you, and hits the brakes. But if it does, and the car following you doesn't stop, whose fault is it? Not sure I like the idea. An alert driver is the best thing. I'm with Scotty on Star Trek..."Th' more they overthink th' plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain!"

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37 minutes ago, Trailrider #896 said:

Wife and I are looking at various cars for when our granddaughter graduates from high school.  Supposedly some Subaru have a sensor that detects if you are about to hit the car in front of you, and hits the brakes. But if it does, and the car following you doesn't stop, whose fault is it? Not sure I like the idea. An alert driver is the best thing. I'm with Scotty on Star Trek..."Th' more they overthink th' plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain!"

When the car brakes itself it will activate the brake lights.  The car that hit you will be at fault the same as if your foot hit the pedal.  It was their failure to allow adequate reaction and stopping distance.  Many brands have this feature but it is not perfect https://youtu.be/PF0AcyMFtMA

 

If your EFI car doesn't have an inertia switch then the fuel shutoff is probably activated by the airbags firing which sends a signal to the computer to stop power to the fuel pump(s).

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Well... my medical advisor instructed me to get myself on down to the ER - particularly important since I'm on blood thinners.  I did, got checked out, and had a brain scan.  The good news is they found one - brain, that is.  Also good news, no brain bleed detected.  Did get roundly scolded by the ER doc for not reporting in immediately after the collision - but all's well, and so forth.

 

The Kid and I will crawl under the car tomorrow and begin our own damage assessment.  Although the physical damage appears to be relatively minor, she took one hell of a whack, and I'm told there's a good chance it could be far worse than it looks.

 

Damn - I want 'er fixed, not some low-ball insurance payout!  Hell... she's just three weeks into a brand new clutch and tires!  :(

 

 

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Alrighty.  Perhaps not so bad.... After crawling underneath, here's what we found:

 

Trunk lid is bent (as is the luggage rack, darnit).  Taillights cracked. "Tupperware" bumper cover is split. Impact bumper itself (the hidden, square tubular steel bumper assembly) is bent and crushed.  The sheet metal forward of the bumper assembly is slightly bent.  

 

REGARDING THE ENGINE:  It now has a P0335 code - Crank Position Sensor.  She'll run fine until reaching a speed of 35 - 40 mph, then shut down.  Restarts immediately.  Wotinell??

 

Curious.  Wondering how a rear collision could cause the CPS to fail - or could it be something else?  

 

Also curious - the tremendous price range for crank position sensors - from $19 (Amazon) to $24-$73 (Rock Auto) to as much as $177.33 (Mazda OEM).  :huh:

 

Can/is there a significant difference between the lower and higher priced sensors?  

 

And my haid still hurts, but getting better.  :wacko:

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21 minutes ago, Hardpan Curmudgeon SASS #8967 said:

Also curious - the tremendous price range for crank position sensors - from $19 (Amazon) to $24-$73 (Rock Auto) to as much as $177.33 (Mazda OEM).  :huh:

 

Can/is there a significant difference between the lower and higher priced sensors?  

Yes, there is.  I'm not going to say you need to buy the OEM, but I'd steer clear of Amazon.

 

The quality of the wires, connectors and connections are areas where the Chinese products can cost in the long run.

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Collision could have knocked the sensor wiring harness into the fan belt, or knocked the sensor out of alignment. Or broken it. Or just loosened the connector. It is a hall-effect sensor and works by being close but not too close to some spin-y part. Been a while since I worked on a Miata.

 

Be careful crawling around for a few more days, whiplash can get a bit worse before it gets better, and you may be sensitive to sudden twangs and twinges (pulled muscles) for a few more days.

 

On edit. The sensor should read several hundred ohms resistance. I remember 400 or 500, maybe you can look up the spec. And either get an OEM sensor or at least a better brand from a chain like Napa. Avoid Chinesioum from Amazon or local consumer auto parts stores. Final through on sensors... Quite often the sensor is telling the truth about a problem and we replace them thinking they are the problem. Your crankshaft may not have the right position for some other reason.

Edited by John Kloehr
Ohms is a word, Otto!
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2 hours ago, Chief Rick said:

Yes, there is.  I'm not going to say you need to buy the OEM, but I'd steer clear of Amazon.

 

The quality of the wires, connectors and connections are areas where the Chinese products can cost in the long run.

Oem all the way, I hate walking. 

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I thought when crankshaft position went wonky the computer took feed off the camshaft position sensor?

 

It's shutting down cause it can't predict detonation timing for spark.

 

 

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Oem spec at least. Most of the parts are made in the same factory with badge engineering being the difference.  

 

Quality control on the line is the major difference most of the time.

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4 minutes ago, Eyesa Horg said:

And OEM likely went to the low bidder.:ph34r:

Well, sure. Low bidder for a certain specification.

 

But non-OEM also went to a low bidder, and with a lower spec.

 

Like mil-spec. Lowest bidder at the minimum acceptable quality (fit, tolerance, finish, corrosion resistance, function...). So non-mil-spec does not meet one or more of those minimum requirements so it will be even less costly. Sure, it may not fit or function, it may corrode, it may not actually do the job 1 time in ten or worse.  But there is good-enough cheap and not good-enough cheap.

 

I have been playing with modern Hemi engines for the last couple years. These engines are seriously sensitive to sensor quality. A few lessons have come through including considering the sensor may be telling the truth. And don't get a sensor at the local parts emporium, more likely to introduce a new problem than fix "the code."

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38 minutes ago, John Kloehr said:

Well, sure. Low bidder for a certain specification.

 

But non-OEM also went to a low bidder, and with a lower spec.

 

Like mil-spec. Lowest bidder at the minimum acceptable quality (fit, tolerance, finish, corrosion resistance, function...). So non-mil-spec does not meet one or more of those minimum requirements so it will be even less costly. Sure, it may not fit or function, it may corrode, it may not actually do the job 1 time in ten or worse.  But there is good-enough cheap and not good-enough cheap.

 

I have been playing with modern Hemi engines for the last couple years. These engines are seriously sensitive to sensor quality. A few lessons have come through including considering the sensor may be telling the truth. And don't get a sensor at the local parts emporium, more likely to introduce a new problem than fix "the code."

Chrysler seems to be the worst for that, and on older stuff national backorder or discontinued. 

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I spent most of my adult life as a forklift mechanic.  We often had to tear lifttrucks apart after impacts(think 4000 pound counterweight with walls, other trucks, trailer doors and even the ground after truck drivers moved the trailer). Motor mount flex or break, the drivetrain can carry impact the length of a vehicle, the sensor may be out of spec because the crankshaft has moved fore or aft a significant amount. Check the rear suspension for flex or cracking. Is the trans tailshaft seal suddenly leaking? Is the wiring harness pinched or cut somewhere other than just at the point of impact? None of this is likely to be readily apparent from a "quick" look underneith. I hope it is something simple and easy to find and fix...my fear says otherwise...

On the other hand get your own frame checked for impact damage too. Glad it wasnt a lot worse.

 

Imis

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