My inexpensive and safe outdoor alloying and bullet casting workstation

[Mysterious Stranger]

Those of us who want to shoot "buffalo rifles"  at relatively long ranges (600  yards) figure out pretty quickly that we need to cast our own heavy bullets because the commercial bullets available are both expensive, (because of the weight of lead needed AND cost of shipping those heavy weights), and too hard (because the softer bullets we need for 45-70 and heavier calibers at Trapdoor pressures are prone to damage in shipping, so commercial casters make them harder than we want).

 

But lead alloying to get the Brinell hardness numbers we want, and bullet casting using melting pots and moulds, can be seriously unsafe to our bodies if not done carefully. It can also result in serious lead pollution and smoke or fire damage to our homes if something goes wrong.

 

I do want to be able to shoot relatively large diameter (.459" or .460") and heavy (485g or heavier) bullets out of my Pedersoli 45-70 Sharps replica, because the Pedersoli's tend to have larger diameter bores and seem to shoot long range far better with heavier bullets (rediscovering what The U.S. Army found in the late 1800s!). So I needed to figure out how to create a safe and low cost, and outdoor, workstation, that would also not offend my wife's opinions on what is acceptable in the family back yard in a suburban setting!

 

This photo shows the alloying and bullet casting workbench I built a couple of days ago:

 

 

It is outdoors, and it is concrete, for safety reasons (ventilation of lead fumes and fire prevention just in case).

 

The 8 individual concrete blocks that create the 2 support towers for the tabletop weigh 28.6 lb each, and are each 7.5” high by 15.5” long and 7.5” wide. The 1.5” thick  by 24” x 30” concrete tabletop (actually a modular sidewalk slab from Home Depot) weighs 102 lb.

 

So, the entire structure weighs 331 lb, so it is not going to move while I work on it or accidentally bump it. But since it is not mortared, it can be disassembled and removed in the future quite easily. There is a layer of concrete caulk between the tabletop and the 2 tower supports to ensure that there is NO “rocking” between the tabletop and the supports due to concrete surface imperfections or imperfect leveling.

 

This workstation is also obviously pretty weather resistant, even in our harsh Canadian winter weather.

 

The location was carefully chosen. It is not visible by neighbours, or from inside the house, it gets outdoor ventilation even if I choose to not use a fan, and if I accidentally create any tall flames during fluxing with sawdust and bees wax, they can safely go upward without encountering anything that they could burn. The gravel ground cover is obviously not going to catch fire if I ever have a hot lead spill.

 

The workbench is well within range of a 12 gauge extension cord that plugs into a choice of 120 volt / 2400 watt outlets inside the garage, so I have 2400 watts of electrical power available, and 2400 MORE watts if I ever need them, as the garage as 2 separate 120 volt outlet circuits.

 

The entire cost of the 8 concrete blocks, the concrete tabletop, and the concrete caulk came to about $75 Canadian, which beat the cost of ANY suitable commercially available work bench I could find anywhere.

 

I’ve tried to minimize the chances of any safety or damage issues while keeping the cost reasonable, and making the work station "unobtrusive", and I think I succeeded! 

 

I'm working now on assembling all the required tools and techniques. THAT's a much more time consuming and expensive project!

 

[Nostrum Damus SASS #110702]

Excellent.  Did you do anything to prepare the ground for supporting that weight?  If not, you may find that it will settle unevenly and that it may frost heave in the fall and spring.  If you have not done anything to prepare the ground, and you want to, here's what I would do: (1) remove your gravel from the area under the table; (2) measure and mark off with string (on short posts) a rectangle that is two inches larger in each direction than the 24x30 tabletop; (3) dig a 6-inch deep straight-walled hole to match the string; (4) fill the hole with crushed road base and compact it with a hand tamper (a mechanical tamper is overkill for this job) -- you should be able to compact it by at least a half inch; (5) buy another 1.5x24x30 concrete tabletop and lay that on the compacted road base, and make sure it is perfectly level, and adjust the compacted road base as required if the slab is not perfectly level; (6) re-stack your cinder blocks and caulk all seams to prevent or at least minimize water intrusion and freeze cracking; and (7) cover the tabletop on the ground with gravel to hide it.  Preferably the tabletop on the ground will sit slightly proud of the surrounding ground (under the gravel) so that water drains off of the slab instead of ponding on it.

[Mysterious Stranger]

16 minutes ago, Nostrum Damus SASS #110702 said:

Excellent.  Did you do anything to prepare the ground for supporting that weight?  If not, you may find that it will settle unevenly and that it may frost heave in the fall and spring.  If you have not done anything to prepare the ground, and you want to, here's what I would do: (1) remove your gravel from the area under the table; (2) measure and mark off with string (on short posts) a rectangle that is two inches larger in each direction than the 24x30 tabletop; (3) dig a 6-inch deep straight-walled hole to match the string; (4) fill the hole with crushed road base and compact it with a hand tamper (a mechanical tamper is overkill for this job) -- you should be able to compact it by at least a half inch; (5) buy another 1.5x24x30 concrete tabletop and lay that on the compacted road base, and make sure it is perfectly level, and adjust the compacted road base as required if the slab is not perfectly level; (6) re-stack your cinder blocks and caulk all seams to prevent or at least minimize water intrusion and freeze cracking; and (7) cover the tabletop on the ground with gravel to hide it.  Preferably the tabletop on the ground will sit slightly proud of the surrounding ground (under the gravel) so that water drains off of the slab instead of ponding on it.

 

Wow, that's a lot of work! I think I'll wait to see if there is an actual need to do it. If the blocks actually move, It might be a lot easier and faster to just relevel and set them up again. That's minutes of work versus hours! Besides, I can only sell this whole setup to my wife by assuring her it is "temporary"!

 

[Nostrum Damus SASS #110702]

It isn't as much work as it sounds, since you are talking about a 5 sq ft 6-inch deep hole.  In any case, even if you don't do anything else, make sure the work surface is perfectly level -- it'll make a difference when you're pouring ingots of recovered lead.  Leveling the work surface will be tricky if the base isn't level.  Just sayin' ....

[Mysterious Stranger]

22 minutes ago, Nostrum Damus SASS #110702 said:

It isn't as much work as it sounds, since you are talking about a 5 sq ft 6-inch deep hole.  In any case, even if you don't do anything else, make sure the work surface is perfectly level -- it'll make a difference when you're pouring ingots of recovered lead.  Leveling the work surface will be tricky if the base isn't level.  Just sayin' ....

 

Yeah I get the importance of the tabletop being level! Things could get VERY messy otherwise when pouring into ingot moulds!!

[Leadspittinlefty]

Looks nice! Only concern would be rain drops, bird poop getting in pot and causing explosion.

Don't ask how I know this!!

Just Sayin!

LSL

[Mysterious Stranger]

32 minutes ago, Leadspittinlefty said:

Looks nice! Only concern would be rain drops, bird poop getting in pot and causing explosion.

Don't ask how I know this!!

Just Sayin!

LSL

 

Fortunately, we only get 14 inches of rain in an entire year around here, and very little of it in the summer months, and very few birds. The number of birds is now so small that we really notice when we get one. Scientists have said that the bird population worldwide has declined a LOT very quickly. Not sure why, but thta is not good news, despite the reduction in bird poop on our cars!

 

One thiong we get a LOT of around here is WIND. Lethbridge is statistically the 2nd windiest city in Canada. I view the wind as being helpful when casting with Lead, but it sometimes get strong enough here (50 mph or even higher gusts) to tear car doors off their hinges,. Days like that I would avoid casting!!

 

Jim G

[Nostrum Damus SASS #110702]

Funny thing about historical weather patterns is you can toss them in the trash because that's all they are worth these days.  Here is Denver's rainfall to date, where one of my sons is a firefighter.  Notice that they also get only 14 inches of rain annually, historically speaking:

 

[Rooster Ron Wayne]

Seems like a nice setup .

Way over kill to do some casting IMHO.

I cast in my back driveway with a folding table a 5 gallon bucket of water a chair for brakes and go at it .

Hell my Pops used to cast in the garage on the work bench with a beer in one hand and a pot and torch in the other melting down wheel weights .

Them damnd old guys was tough as nails ! 

 

[Texas Jack Black]

 To close to siding and window even though the window looks fixed. Also if you get a flash your deck is close and your location is in a fumes trap with your neighbors home, poor circulation. Your fire dept. would say no way. Also ask your home owners ins.

 

Best Wishes

 

[Eyesa Horg]

Tailgate on my truck with a plank works for me! Good conversation piece with the round burn marks from the muffin tins I use for ingots. I keep the smelting pot on the ground as well as the plank when pouring ingots, less movement or chance of spilling on me body. Casting is done on the tailgate.

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

Working with lead on gravel is bad idea.  Loose footing, while handling heavy smelting pot half full of molten lead can become a lead-encased boot and leg, or worse.  Any spills mean lead lost into the gravel that can't be picked up easily. Gravel retains moisture below surface.  Can't stack up lead alloy ingots or scrap on the ground or gravel without it getting damp.

 

A 4" concrete slab solves all those problems other than moisture from above.  Makes it real easy to clean up with a broom and dustpan - casting especially throws off pin-head lead granules from sprue cutting and the occasional splash.

 

Power - you really need an emergency shutoff that does not depend upon running to the garage and unplugging. 

 

Pedestal design probably ok, but the use of non-mortared blocks means the top (or blocks) can be easily dislodged by kids playing or a slip/fall with heavy pot.

 

Just some initial thoughts.

[Tequila Shooter]

IMO Gravel is a poor choice for a base, the base, no matter how heavy, can shift and move.  Also footing can be tenuous, even grass would be better than gravel.  Also as it looks in the picture it’s too close to the house. 

It’s your house and yourself that you’ll be risking so if you realize the dangers and continue that’s your choice, it’s not for me. 

[Mysterious Stranger]

3 hours ago, Texas Jack Black said:

 To close to siding and window even though the window looks fixed. Also if you get a flash your deck is close and your location is in a fumes trap with your neighbors home, poor circulation. Your fire dept. would say no way. Also ask your home owners ins.

 

Best Wishes

 

 

The proximity to the garage and deck is unavoidable given the size of our lot. The space is NOT a "fume trap" though, as we almost always have some wind here in Lethbridge. And I plan to only MELT the Lead, not vaporize it! I have to work with what I have available, and this is what is available. It's a lot more than many other successful casters have.

[Mysterious Stranger]

3 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

Working with lead on gravel is bad idea.  Loose footing, while handling heavy smelting pot half full of molten lead can become a lead-encased boot and leg, or worse.  Any spills mean lead lost into the gravel that can't be picked up easily. Gravel retains moisture below surface.  Can't stack up lead alloy ingots or scrap on the ground or gravel without it getting damp.

 

A 4" concrete slab solves all those problems other than moisture from above.  Makes it real easy to clean up with a broom and dustpan - casting especially throws off pin-head lead granules from sprue cutting and the occasional splash.

 

Power - you really need an emergency shutoff that does not depend upon running to the garage and unplugging. 

 

Pedestal design probably ok, but the use of non-mortared blocks means the top (or blocks) can be easily dislodged by kids playing or a slip/fall with heavy pot.

 

Just some initial thoughts.

 

Good precautionary thoughts. No kids to worry about in our case. The emergency shutoff is the melting pot's plug into the electrical extension cord, but I can add an electrical splitter box with  its own onboard on/off switch and circuit breaker too. I'm not worried about the concrete tabletop moving. It weighs 102 lb and it sits on concrete blocks that weigh 229 lb.

 

I'm sure I'll discover shortcomings, and also improvements as I learn.

 

I really did not want to play with hot lead at all, but it appears that my Pedersoli Sharps replica needs .459" or .460" diameter cast lead bullets to shoot decently at long distances, and I cannot practically get those commercially premade where I am located. So, I have tried to edcuate myself on the processes and the issues, and am setting things up for as much safety and ease of use as I can foresee. My volume needs are low, so my casting sessions will be relatively small, and likely only 2 or 3 times per summer (too cold in the winter around here!), so this is not an everyday undertaking for me. And, I don't want it to be.

[Uriah, SASS # 53822]

I do it in open garage. Turkey fryer. Mold oven, typically I get one reject, -2 gr.

Lots of room.

[Springfield Slim SASS #24733]

An auto oil drip pan on the floor/ground really makes clean-up of spills/ droplets much easier. The lead doesn't stick to the pan, so no picking at every little spill. And not flammable like cardboard.

[Texas Jack Black]

 Three cinder blocks on end 

[watab kid]

noy happening here - we have had little to0 no rain for two months now , great for mosquitoes and terrible for crop lest you have irrigation , 

 

there is corn here that is waiste high or some that is ankle high the beans look lean , all of my fronds with gardens are watering , i have a well and city water - just sedom use that well - i dont want to mow 

[Pb Mark]

On 7/15/2023 at 9:44 AM, Mysterious Stranger said:

The location was carefully chosen. It is not visible by neighbours, or from inside the house,

Since you live in Alberta, Canada you got me wondering....

Do the "Canadian Environmental Police" have drones that will shoot people caught sitting out in the open melting lead to make bullets?  

[Mysterious Stranger]

3 minutes ago, Pb Mark said:

Since you live in Alberta, Canada you got me wondering....

Do the "Canadian Environmental Police" have drones that will shoot people caught sitting out in the open melting lead to make bullets?  

 

No, the Canadian justice system leaves alone all polluters, gang members, mobsters, and assaulters. It occasionally arrests some of them as a publicity deterrent, but it believes firmly in "catch and release", so the arrest are merely photo ops. 

[Texas Jack Black]

 One last note. If that is your neighbors house I see on the other side of the fence you are close and I see a vent on his house Those lead fumes WILL enter that vent.

 

Best Wishes

[Mysterious Stranger]

1 hour ago, Texas Jack Black said:

 One last note. If that is your neighbors house I see on the other side of the fence you are close and I see a vent on his house Those lead fumes WILL enter that vent.

 

Best Wishes

 

That's actually the CHIMNEY for their gas fireplace. It's also upwind for our prevailing winds (We get all the snow from their roof in the winter right onto our deck and into the spot where the casting station is located). and again, I will not anyway be reaching temperatures where Lead actually vaporizes. It will just MELT. Vaporization requires a couple hundred more degrees. And since I will be using Linotype and pure lead, NOT wheel weights or other salvaged lead alloys, my melts will not have the other crap that many casters encounter that generates smoke and fire. My only "contaminant" should be the bees wax I'll use for fluxing.

 

[The Bald Buttero]

Make sure you wear a respirator even though you are outside.  They are relatively inexpensive these days and sure worth the expense when compared to losing IQ points..

[Mysterious Stranger]

Just now, The Bald Buttero said:

Make sure you wear a respirator even though you are outside.  They are relatively inexpensive these days and sure worth the expense when compared to losing IQ points..

 

I have the 3M respirator.