Lubing a .45 1911

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

Got over 120,000 (yep, by count of primer purchases - I use a different primer in my 1911s than I do in any other large pistol primer fired piece) cast bullet rounds fired on my main match Colt Series 70 Government.    So, this dismisses many theories of lubrication, and hot air from video self-judged experts, and shows the practical field experience from that service.  Here's the techniques I have used over the 50 years I have owned that gun.  

 

Drop slide on an empty chamber - I strongly resist this, I do not want to have to redo the trigger job I did 15 years ago.  It releases at 3.8 pounds and never has doubled.  I wish our WB clear and show empty check did not hint that this is OK to do.  I try to ease slide down slides with a drag on left side of the slide.

 

Lube the gun - I like Mobil 1 Grease and LOVE BattleBorn (from Breakthrough Clean Technologies) synthetic grease.    All my military guns get mainly grease on sliding contact points, and oil on parts where there is no danger of the lube getting out onto wood or control surfaces where I grip or fire the gun.  Slide contacts can be easily spotted as missing blue or polished surface on stainless guns.  There is nothing on 1911s that is a rotating high speed motion.   It's all linear or sliding of two surfaces that are held together with springs. 

 

Grease kept refreshed every six months (washed off and reapplied as a very thin film) works for my guns.   Mobil 1 can weep a little of it's liquid oil components at 120 F, but BattleBorn never seems to lose any oils, so that is what I use most of the time anymore.    Oil, which I only use on something like a firing pin spring bore or extractor bore, due to minimum motion of parts and a trapping design to help retain the fluid.  I don't use enough gun oil in enough different places on guns to make a brand recommendation.

 

If my gun is exposed to a dust storm, I tear it down, wash and relube.   If I wanted to replace a gun after 20,000 rounds, I'd probably run it mostly dry.  If it were going to an extreme environment (hot, dirty, cold, corrosive), then I'd trust what the Top Kick or the Gunny tells me to do.

 

I understand your mileage probably varies from my usage profile.  Adapt your lubrication as you need.  If you don't know, trust those who have field experience.

 

good luck, GJ

[Buckshot Bear]

1 hour ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

I wish our WB clear and show empty check did not hint that this is OK to do.  I try to ease slide down slides with a drag on left side of the slide.

 

 

 

Joe, I've only shot a few WB matches so far and all the competitors I've watched drop their slides.

I've shot a gazillion IPSC matches and I can't ever remember a shooter that I RO'd not slamming their slide closed (though of course not all IPSC shooters shoot a 1911).

Is this just a 1911 'thing' that dropping the slide can damage the pistol?

 

@Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Would you be able to enlarge on exactly how you close your slide on clear and show empty? My wife and I are competing in our first away shoot this Sunday and I'd like to practice with her your method, but I didn't 100% follow exactly.

 

 

[Rip Snorter]

2 minutes ago, Buckshot Bear said:

 

Joe, I've only shot a few WB matches so far and all the competitors I've watched drop their slides.

I've shot a gazillion IPSC matches and I can't ever remember a shooter that I RO'd not slamming their slide closed (though of course not all IPSC shooters shoot a 1911).

Is this just a 1911 'thing' that dropping the slide can damage the pistol?

 

@Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Would you be able to enlarge on exactly how you close your slide on clear and show empty? My wife and I are competing in our first away shoot this Sunday and I'd like to practice with her your method, but I didn't 100% follow exactly.

 

 

Off hand in front of the rear sight, release the catch and close the action harmoniously, you'll get a better outcome.

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

Slow the slide drop -  pressure on the left side of the slide as I take off the slide stop.  Using either the side of my right thumb, or the palm of the left hand on the slide.  The second method is a little more reliable.  Enough to let it ease down, not slam down.  Bouncing the sear in the hammer full cock notch is what you are trying to prevent.  The lighter the trigger pull, the more likely a hard closing of slide is going to bounce the hammer back off the tip of the sear, then mainspring flips hammer back forward again against sear.   I too have read Wilson's recommendation to try to avoid this on match quality trigger jobs.

 

Is this a 1911 thing?   It's what I have seen recommended for 1911s.  Don't shoot many other semiauto pistols enough to worry about it, or study expert advice.

 

good luck, GJ

[Creeker, SASS #43022]

Oil:

Systems that ongoing replenish the lubrication (i.e. something with an oil pump - like your car)

OR

for trapped parts that mostly contain the oil

OR

for confined areas that a thick grease might impede movement

OR

for corrosion resistance.

 

Grease:

Areas that do not ongoing replenish lubrication (i.e. frame rails, lever links, cylinder rods)

OR

areas that a "normal" oil would weep from or move away from under use.

OR

mating areas that exhibit tolerances that an oil film will not keep filled

 

I like white lithium grease especially on the interior of my 73 and cylinder rod of my revolvers (cowboy and modern)

I run a RED automotive disc brake grease on the slide rails of my semi autos

(brand is IMO immaterial as the stresses in an automotive environment are so far beyond anything our firearms are subject to that any quality grease is sufficient)

 

As for dropping the slide on an empty chamber (on any semi auto); it is just like dry firing on an empty chamber - a few times is probably not going to hurt anything; but why do it?

It still bugs me to drop the bolt closed on my AR - because the "CLUNK" just makes my teeth hurt.

 

 

[Forty Rod SASS 3935]

7 hours ago, One Gun Jimmy said:

I have used white lithium grease for years.

I use it on any mating surfaces. 

 

I worried at first about the thickness in small areas

 

I have found no adverse effects.

 

Also once you get it full of stuff you can just wipe it out and the gun is super clean as the grease holds most of the carbon....wipe...re-apply...done.

 

The slide drop on a round is interesting

 

So the reason it's stated is not only inertia.

 

Some guns (glocks come to mind) if it straps the round from a mag then the round slides up and under the extractor instead of the extractor popping over the round.

 

I see the logic and have heard second hand that it is a documented issue.

 

I personally think it's true, but way to minor to care.

 

The extractor on a G17 and many others is the same as a G18...the G18 is a 1300rnd per min machine gun.

 

If dropping a slide on a loaded chamber, and the extractor hitting brass is more stress then a 1300RPM machine gun can handle then I don't understand metallurgy at all.

 

I load my carry guns about 50/30/20 one in the pipe and drop vs topping the mag vs just carrying mag -1.

 

YMMV

I'll bet your wife hates that lithium grease.  

[One Gun Jimmy]

24 minutes ago, Forty Rod SASS 3935 said:

I'll bet your wife hates that lithium grease.  

Ow I see what you did there

[Colorado Coffinmaker]

Over the last eight or ten years I worked as a CAS gunsmith, I developed a preference for MOBIL 1 grease where grease is needed and Mobil 1 motor Oil where Oil is needed.  For the 1911 I like Mobil 1 grease (lightly) on Frame Rails, Slide Rails and Link. Just a drop or two of oil on other moving parts.  Prior to my affection for Mobil 1, I used Slide Glide.

 

Other mating surfaces get a dab of Astra Glide 

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

21 minutes ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

Over the last eight or ten years I worked as a CAS gunsmith, I developed a preference for MOBIL 1 grease where grease is needed and Mobil 1 motor Oil where Oil is needed.  For the 1911 I like Mobil 1 grease (lightly) on Frame Rails, Slide Rails and Link. Just a drop or two of oil on other moving parts.  Prior to my affection for Mobil 1, I used Slide Glide.

 

Other mating surfaces get a dab of Astra Glide 

What oil weight do you use?

[Widder, SASS #59054]

4 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

What oil weight do you use?

 

A Quart usually weighs about 32 oz.   

 

..........Widder   (yea, I know I'm a Smart A$$)

 

 

 

 

[Colorado Coffinmaker]

Ya Widder, Datz about right 

 

Lump Lump - My fav is 5w-30.  Used sparingly, a quart goes a Loooooong way.

 

PS:  Reading back, I neglected to say why  like Mobil 1.  My last 10 or so years I primarily worked as a smithy to the Black Powder crowd.  Needed a really great lube the played really well with BP.  Mobil 1 lubricants are superb for BP guns and that Heathen Smokeless Stuff.

 

 

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

2 hours ago, Widder, SASS #59054 said:

 

A Quart usually weighs about 32 oz.   

 

..........Widder   (yea, I know I'm a Smart A$$)

 

 

 

 

Go back to your basement and stay there 

[Creeker, SASS #43022]

14 minutes ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

Ya Widder, Datz about right 

 

Lump Lump - My fav is 5w-30.  Used sparingly, a quart goes a Loooooong way.

 

 

Sparingly? 

 

So my current method of dunking the entire firearm in a tub of straight 50 weight is doing it wrong?

I always let them drip dry after.

[Colorado Coffinmaker]

Creeker.

 

Well, yes actually.   HOWEVER:  If the practice works well for YOU I certainly wouldn't tell you to stop.  Over lubing can be a hinderance.  So long as they get lubed . . . . . . . 

[Widder, SASS #59054]

9 minutes ago, Creeker, SASS #43022 said:

Sparingly? 

 

So my current method of dunking the entire firearm in a tub of straight 50 weight is doing it wrong?

I always let them drip dry after.

 

I lube my 97's with bionic 'harmonic' oil.   

 

..........Widder

 

 

[Smokin Gator SASS #29736]

Garrison Joe. Just curious. When you say you refresh the grease every 6 months, how often are you shooting the gun during that time.?

I've used various oils on my 1911s. Sometimes I  don't clean between matches but will check to see if it needs a little lube. Usually it doesn't. 

[Buckshot Bear]

Talking about Mobil 1 grease, around 15 years ago I bought this from the Brian Enos Forum.....cost me packet with exchange rates and postage

to get it down here in Australia.

I always thought I paid a lot for what just  looked like Mobil 1 grease.