Lubing a .45 1911

[Buckshot Bear]

After some opinions on lubing a .45 1911, some authors (and video makers) expound on running them dry and some expound on running them heavily lubed. 

 

Also there seems to be two school of thoughts of slamming the slide shut on an empty chamber.....as in really bad for the pistol and other authors say that's a lot of baloney.

[Pat Riot]

Lube? Yes

 

Slam? No

 

That’ll be $25

 

[Muleshoe Bill SASS #67022]

Is there a question in this?

 My first introduction to the US Model 1911 pistol was a pistol where the slide rattled around on the frame with a maybe a 1/18 inch play. Shot about a 2" group mostly at 25 yards. 

My first personally owned 1911 worked pretty well. I used it in mortal combat once. I was deer hunting at a girl friend's fathers' ranch in the Texas Hill County. I was happily ensconced in a oak tree when a buck decided to use the tree as it's rub that morning. I had nodded out a bit and when the tree started to sway and shiver, I looked down at the buck and without thinking, I pulled the 1911 and unloaded all 8 rounds at it. 4 rounds through the skull, shot off both antlers and last round broke the spine. When her father came to pick me up at my blind, he gave me a look.... She broke up with me a couple days later.

 

Lube.. oh yeah nothing like grease the rails with lithium grease. and that is about it.

[Alpo]

Slamming. My opinion.

 

If you lock the slide back, insert a loaded magazine and drop the slide, the slide goes forward just as fast as the recoil spring will pull it. For this example we will say it is traveling at 50 mph. It rushes forward at 50 mph until it reaches the back of the magazine where the slide encounters the cartridge. Overcoming the inertia of the cartridge held into the magazine slows the speed of the slide down from 50 mph to 25 mph. The slide pushes the cartridge out of the magazine and forces it up the ramp and into the chamber, and slam shut on the back of the brass cartridge. The steel face of the slide stops and dumps all the energy from the recoil spring against brass. This is the way the gun was designed to work.

 

But if there is no magazine in the gun, there is nothing to slow it down. The slide moves forward at 50 mph and slams into the face of the chamber, still at 50 mph. There is no soft brass to cushion it, so the steel face of the slide slams into the steel face of the chamber at 50 mph.

 

Is that hard on the gun? I really don't know. You do it to my gun, and I will beat the crap out of you.

 

[Pat Riot]

5 hours ago, Muleshoe Bill SASS #67022 said:

Lube.. oh yeah nothing like grease the rails with lithium grease. and that is about it.

Unless you carry your gun in a cold climate or leave it locked in a cold vehicle and expect it operate properly, then consider oil in the colder months. 
I had a bit of a surprise years ago when I retrieved my 1911 from my cold truck, stiffly racked the slide and it slowly moved forward and stopped where the resistance of the bullet in the magazine held it open. This was with the red mil-spec grease. 
From that time on ,I oiled the rails in cooler months. 

[Buckshot Bob]

If you have the sear surfaces cut down to minimal engagement dropping the slide on a mt chamber probably isn’t going to help anything. Wilson combat recommends against it, so take that for what it’s worth to you. But if everything is heat treated properly I’m guessing you would have to do some extensive dry firing to cause excessive wear. 
As far as lube goes , yes, I’d like to see your safety glasses covered with oil spot’s after the first couple of rounds.  

[Pat Riot]

1 hour ago, Alpo said:

Is that hard on the gun? I really don't know. You do it to my gun, and I will beat the crap out of you.

I equate releasing the slide and slamming it with that “Hey look how cool I am flipping the cylinder closed” on a revolver. 
And I feel the same way. Not with my guns. 
 

 

Years ago I have an acquaintance that was trained in small arms in the Air Force. His primary job was aircraft maintenance so I don’t know how much official training he got but I did see his “Expert Marksman” medal.

He would let his slides slam home. He would also flip his Ruger DA revolvers cylinders closed claiming “This ain’t no sissy Smith & Wesson”. Well, he bent the crane on his Security Six and he cracked a rail either on the frame or the slide, I can’t remember which, on his Springfield 1911. Knucklehead! 

[Texas Joker]

Pull the dipstick out o your hummer and touch the end to the rails rack a slide and mount up.

 

 

[Widder, SASS #59054]

I ain't an expert on gun care but this method has worked for me and given me good reliability with my 1911's

for years.

I use a good liquid lube, such as Strike Hold, and put a drop or such on my rails about every 40-50 rounds.

If the gun gets dry, I still have good reliability.

 

This little lubrication seems to be sufficient.    ALSO, I don't slam the slide on an unloaded pistol.

Good or bad, I don't know.    But it can't be helpful.

 

P.S. - my 1911's consist of three 10mm,   two .45 ACP, and three 460 Rowlands.

And I'm not a big fan of grease.

 

..........Widder

 

[Pat Riot]

18 minutes ago, Widder, SASS #59054 said:

And I'm not a big fan of grease.

The only grease I use on guns is Mobil 1 grease. Thanks to @Sedalia Dave for turning me on to it and the oil for gun maintenance. I use it on my Garand, AR-15 and leverguns. Pistols / revolvers get oil - Mobil 1 10W30.

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

A few drops of oil.

Never slam with magazine removed(why would you?).

[Jack Spade]

It really depends on what you are doing with the gun.  For storage I just use a light oil.  Probably would do the same if I am concealed carrying my 1911.  But if we are talking about running a 1911 in competition like wild bunch, I have found if you want it to run reliably, use grease and lots of it.  The last 3 wild bunch matches I have shot I see guys guns shoot ok for the first stage maybe two, then the problems start.  I had the same results until I started greasing my gun pretty heavily before the match and I greased areas I had never thought to grease before.  Read this blog post and give it a try. https://www.cherrybalmz.com/post/secrets-of-1911-reliability-how-to-lube-for-maximum-performance I don't use their products but I may in the future.  I live in Florida and it is hot most of the time so I use Lucas oil red n tacky grease.   After going to this method and greasing heavily before a match I have not had one single hiccup or failure the last three matches. 

[DocWard]

23 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

A few drops of oil.

Never slam with magazine removed(why would you?).

 

As I recall, way back when, it was part of the battery of arms for the 1911 in the military. That is the argument some use for it being OK to do. When I went into the Army Reserve, we still had 1911s, and when I got to my unit, I was trained on all things small arms by a Special Forces NCO that was in our unit while doing contract training. He distinctly advised against doing so.

I'm a bit of oil kind of guy.

[Rip Snorter]

I can recall guys in IPSC days with a can of Breakfree spraying the guns between stages and shaking off the excess.  Mine have always worked just fine with light oil on the rails and internals.  As to dropping the slide without a magazine, a hard NO.  If you are really picky ride the slide with your off hand when chambering.

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

1 hour ago, DocWard said:

 

As I recall, way back when, it was part of the battery of arms for the 1911 in the military. That is the argument some use for it being OK to do. When I went into the Army Reserve, we still had 1911s, and when I got to my unit, I was trained on all things small arms by a Special Forces NCO that was in our unit while doing contract training. He distinctly advised against doing so.

I'm a bit of oil kind of guy.

Seen a far share of damaged bbl links from idiots letting the slide repeatedly slam.

 

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

1 hour ago, Rip Snorter said:

I can recall guys in IPSC days with a can of Breakfree spraying the guns between stages and shaking off the excess.  Mine have always worked just fine with light oil on the rails and internals.  As to dropping the slide without a magazine, a hard NO.  If you are really picky ride the slide with your off hand when chambering.

Race guns maybe. I shot stock class with SWPL, and rarely saw such.

[Rip Snorter]

Just now, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Race guns maybe. I shot stock class with SWPL, and rarely saw such.

Long time ago, race guns, then sometimes also called Space Guns were just making the scene and setting the stage for the game as we knew it to be gone.

[Pat Riot]

1 hour ago, DocWard said:

 

As I recall, way back when, it was part of the battery of arms for the 1911 in the military. That is the argument some use for it being OK to do. When I went into the Army Reserve, we still had 1911s, and when I got to my unit, I was trained on all things small arms by a Special Forces NCO that was in our unit while doing contract training. He distinctly advised against doing so.

I'm a bit of oil kind of guy.

When I went aboard ship I recall soon after we got a new Gunnery Chief. He let me help out in the Armory. I recall one of his first edicts right after witnessing his gunners clearing and stowing weapons after a drill was “If I catch any of you swinging d***s slamming home the slides on any of these weapons you’ll be doing EMI for two weeks at the very least! Do I make myself clear?” There were affirmations all around. One week later a second class petty officer Gunners Mate was written up and assigned EMI for two weeks. The guy had been in the Navy 6 years. He was not happy. He never slammed a slide again…and neither did anyone else. 

[Forty Rod SASS 3935]

23 hours ago, Pat Riot, SASS #13748 said:

Lube? Yes

 

Slam? No

 

That’ll be $25

 

But.....but.....but it ain't got no zerks and I hate WD-40 on my guns.

[bgavin]

WD40 encourages rust.

[One Gun Jimmy]

I have used white lithium grease for years.

I use it on any mating surfaces. 

 

I worried at first about the thickness in small areas

 

I have found no adverse effects.

 

Also once you get it full of stuff you can just wipe it out and the gun is super clean as the grease holds most of the carbon....wipe...re-apply...done.

 

The slide drop on a round is interesting

 

So the reason it's stated is not only inertia.

 

Some guns (glocks come to mind) if it straps the round from a mag then the round slides up and under the extractor instead of the extractor popping over the round.

 

I see the logic and have heard second hand that it is a documented issue.

 

I personally think it's true, but way to minor to care.

 

The extractor on a G17 and many others is the same as a G18...the G18 is a 1300rnd per min machine gun.

 

If dropping a slide on a loaded chamber, and the extractor hitting brass is more stress then a 1300RPM machine gun can handle then I don't understand metallurgy at all.

 

I load my carry guns about 50/30/20 one in the pipe and drop vs topping the mag vs just carrying mag -1.

 

YMMV

[Alpo]

I believe you misunderstood the question. Either you did or I did.

 

What you are referring to is dropping around into the chamber and then dropping the slide so that the extractor is forced over the rim. That, by the way, is supposed to be hard on the extractor.

 

The question, as I read it, is you have the slide locked back on an empty gun, and then you push down on the slide stop and let the slide slam home on empty gun.

 

No cartridge - neither in the magazine or in the chamber.

 

Steel slapping steel.

 

 

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

1 hour ago, bgavin said:

WD40 encourages rust.

No it don't! 

Been using as a wipe down for decades. 

[Dutch Nichols, SASS #6461]

 It's more than stripping a round to slow it  and most folks don't understand how a 1911 runs.

 Upon ejection as the slide moves forward it starts to strip the next round. As it does the rim

starts to slide UNDER the extractor. Nose of bullet hits feed ramp and bounces UP into the barrel hood.

It the rear of the cartridge,  then comes up fully under the extractor and the bullet nose  settles in to the chamber.

as the slide closes. Yes the slide slows  in doing this,but the big

Difference is your trigger finger is holding back on the trigger. This keeps constant pressure on the sear

and does not allow the sear and hammer to "bounce" off each other.  Match triggers have a .018-.022 ( thousandths)

hook / engagement surface which isn't much. Let them bounce off each other a few times and it will cause chattering on the surfaces and soon your hammer will follow every time you do it.

 Old timers or those used to mil spec triggers say it's OK because their engagement surfaces are so great they

may never allow this to happen. But then again an 8 lb trigger is no fun!

[bgavin]

28 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

No it don't! 

Been using as a wipe down for decades. 

I wiped down my Harley chrome in the fall and it was rusted in the spring.

Told my neighbor who was sub repair at Mare Island.  He said enables rust and proved it by sawing open an empty WD40 can which was heavily rusted on the inside.  He said WD40 is a rust breaker fluid, not a lubricant or rust preventative.

You are welcome to do as you see fit with your expensive firearms.  I will use my past experience of WD40 causing rust, and will not put it on any of my guns.

[One Gun Jimmy]

58 minutes ago, Alpo said:

I believe you misunderstood the question. Either you did or I did.

 

What you are referring to is dropping around into the chamber and then dropping the slide so that the extractor is forced over the rim. That, by the way, is supposed to be hard on the extractor.

 

The question, as I read it, is you have the slide locked back on an empty gun, and then you push down on the slide stop and let the slide slam home on empty gun.

 

No cartridge - neither in the magazine or in the chamber.

 

Steel slapping steel.

 

 

It's me.

 

It definitely says slamming closed on an EMPTY chamber.

 

I don't know how bad it is, but I do NOT do it and would never to someone else's gun.

 

I'll get back under my rock hahaha.

 

 

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

1 hour ago, bgavin said:

I wiped down my Harley chrome in the fall and it was rusted in the spring.

Told my neighbor who was sub repair at Mare Island.  He said enables rust and proved it by sawing open an empty WD40 can which was heavily rusted on the inside.  He said WD40 is a rust breaker fluid, not a lubricant or rust preventative.

You are welcome to do as you see fit with your expensive firearms.  I will use my past experience of WD40 causing rust, and will not put it on any of my guns.

Don't store the toys in a humidor 

You do know what WD stands for? 

I have seen several of the cans opened up(I open my empties for just that reason)and have never seen anything but a shiny inside.

 

 

[Eyesa Horg]

1 hour ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

No it don't! 

Been using as a wipe down for decades. 

Although I used it once to lube lug studs on a trailer. A year later had to use a 3/4 drive impact to remove them! About 30% broke and most of the rest stripped the threads off! Removed them originally with a T cross lug wrench. Lubed the hinges on a Conex and a month later needed a six foot hardbar to open the doors. Borrowed a Sig once and had to clean it as it malfunctioned every other shot. Talked to the owner and he had been using WD exclusively, it was all gummed up. I don't use it for anything but adhesive remover nowadays. I'm sure others mileage may vary!!

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

2 minutes ago, Eyesa Horg said:

Although I used it once to lube lug studs on a trailer. A year later had to use a 3/4 drive impact to remove them! About 30% broke and most of the rest stripped the threads off! Removed them originally with a T cross lug wrench. Lubed the hinges on a Conex and a month later needed a six foot hardbar to open the doors. Borrowed a Sig once and had to clean it as it malfunctioned every other shot. Talked to the owner and he had been using WD exclusively, it was all gummed up. I don't use it for anything but adhesive remover nowadays. I'm sure others mileage may vary!!

All I use it for is a wipe down to remove my acidic fingerprints. 

Not to clean with......

BTW, I use copper anti-seize on the wheel studs.

[One Gun Jimmy]

1 minute ago, Eyesa Horg said:

Although I used it once to lube lug studs on a trailer. A year later had to use a 3/4 drive impact to remove them! About 30% broke and most of the rest stripped the threads off! Removed them originally with a T cross lug wrench. Lubed the hinges on a Conex and a month later needed a six foot hardbar to open the doors. Borrowed a Sig once and had to clean it as it malfunctioned every other shot. Talked to the owner and he had been using WD exclusively, it was all gummed up. I don't use it for anything but adhesive remover nowadays. I'm sure others mileage may vary!!

This WD-40 thing is interesting, must be some other factors....scares me a little.

 

I use it as a coating on my lathe bed....never had rust but it does get applied often.

 

I know it evaporates?

 

Have used it on cylinder heads and blocks for storage aswell.

 

Not saying it ain't true either way...as stated YMMV 

[Eyesa Horg]

3 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

All I use it for is a wipe down to remove my acidic fingerprints. 

Not to clean with......

BTW, I use copper anti-seize on the wheel studs.

Copper anti- seize is also my go to for many years too. The wife hates it, as it seems to find it's way to things I never touched in the house!

[Eyesa Horg]

5 minutes ago, One Gun Jimmy said:

This WD-40 thing is interesting, must be some other factors....scares me a little.

 

I use it as a coating on my lathe bed....never had rust but it does get applied often.

 

I know it evaporates?

 

Have used it on cylinder heads and blocks for storage aswell.

 

Not saying it ain't true either way...as stated YMMV 

Not sure, but I think the real issue is it softens rust and after it evaporates the two parts are now welded. I've used it years ago on cast iron table saw, shaper tables. Now I use Johnson's carnauba floor wax.

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

2 minutes ago, Eyesa Horg said:

Copper anti- seize is also my go to for many years too. The wife hates it, as it seems to find it's way to things I never touched in the house!

It's magical like that 

[Widder, SASS #59054]

I don't use WD-40 to lube anything..... BUT, I use it and Kroil in a 50/50 mis to clean crud out of 

firearms that have some hard build up of crud from not being cleaned.

It works well for me, but that is all I use it for.

 

For lube, I use Strike Hold.   I ain't saying its the best because there are many great lubes

available.   It's just one of the better ones I have found.

Another lube I like is LUCAS products for gun lubes, including their blue grease, although I don't

grease a lot of my guns.

 

..........Widder

 

[DeaconKC]

I've got several 1911s here, from an actual WW1 1917 built Colt to Argentines, custom 38 Supers etc. I use fresh Wolff springs whenever I pick one up, then use Miltec grease on the rails and a light oil on everything else. Slamming home on an empty chamber, nope.