Best way to solve this Ubertu Competition Rifle sight problem?

[Mysterious Stranger]

My brass punch set arrived today. Here is how I successfully moved the rear sight over "about" .015":

 

Since I wanted to move the rear sight to the RIGHT (because the rifle is shooting about 3/4" left of POA), I ran a piece of masking tape along the right side of the rear sight's dovetail base. Then I held a .015" feeler gauge vertically against the righthand side of the sight's dovetail, and ran an ink pen with a fine point right alongside the feeler gauge surface. That gave me an ink line .015" away from the dovetail base, to slowly push the dovetail towards.

 

I loosened the screw on the rear sight, and then gently used a mini hammer and 1/8" diameter punch, tapping the left side of the dovetail base to move it gently.toward the ink line on the righthand side. Surprisingly, this turned out to be reasonably easy. The dovetail base moved slowly and predictably as I gently tapped its left side, and I stopped tapping when the dovetail base's right edge was just short of the left edge of the line.

 

I'll test the rifle's horizontal POI versus POA at my next range session.

 

Next, I did a temporary mod to the FRONT sight for testing:

 

In wanted to "see" (pardon the pun" how a larger bead on the front sight might affect my ease of getting a sight picture. So, I grabbed a FIRED Federal small pistol primer with its nickel finish, and pulled the anvil mechanism out of the primer cup. I then cleaned both the inside of the anvil cup and the outside of the front sight bead and the area around it in its mounting blade, with lacquer thinner. Then I let the lacquer thinner evaporate, and dried the bead, the bead mount, and the inside of the primer cup. Then, since I wanted a temporary versus permanent bond, I poured some rubber cement into the primer cup, and slipped it over the OEM gold bead. It does not lay coaxially with the bead, because the bead mount surface under the bead won't let the primer go on far enough, so the primer cup is a bit tilted upward.

 

But that turned out not to matter one bit. When I picked up the rifle to aim it at a wall, that nickel plated primer cup looked BRILLIANT and BIG, and despite its diameter being almost double the size of the bead's diameter, it fits into the notch in the rear sight. Yes, it almost completely fills the notch because of its largher size, but it is so bright and so visible that I was able to get it perfectly into that notch time and time again very QUICKLY.

 

I am hoping the temporary bond will stand up to the light CAS handload recoil, because I want to see how much quicker AND more accurately I can shoot the rifle with this size of bead. If it stands up to 40 or so shots at my next range session, I'll get the local gunsmith, who is going to change the springs, lighten the trigger, and smooth up the rifle anyway, to find a permanent way to attach that primer cup to the front bead.

 

The extra diameter of the primer cup looks like about the right amount to raise the front sight enough to move the POI down the 3/4" or so that the sight needs to be raised to lower the POI to POA. Pure luck. 

[Abilene, SASS # 27489]

Not sure if one like this has been mentioned yet, but this is the front sight on my current main match rifle.  I like it a lot.  It is a Marbles with a Slixbead screw-in bead.

https://www.slixprings.com/products.php?cat=1

 

[Mysterious Stranger]

It turns out that Rusty Wood, my new bullet supplier, is also a gunsmith service. One of their products is customized front rifle sights. They are sending me a front sight for my rifle that is .125" taller than the current front sight, and whose bead is .150" diameter versus the .0978" diameter of the OEM bead (so 60% larger for easier visibility).

 

I have already determined that after the setscrew in in the OEM front sight dovetail is loosened with the corrrectly sized gun screwdriver, the front sight does indeed move sideways (NOT frozen in place).

 

BUT, I think I have read that sight doivetails should only be moved in one direction to remove them, and the new sight dovetail also has to be pushed in only the correct direction. (I have never before had to replace a sight, so no experience with doing so).

 

What are the correct directions?

[Abilene, SASS # 27489]

Remove left to right.  Install right to left.

[Mysterious Stranger]

2 hours ago, Abilene, SASS # 27489 said:

Remove left to right.  Install right to left.

 

This is looking from the rear of the firearm towards the front?

[Abilene, SASS # 27489]

30 minutes ago, Mysterious Stranger said:

 

This is looking from the rear of the firearm towards the front?

Yes.  In and out of the right side.

[Mysterious Stranger]

2 minutes ago, Abilene, SASS # 27489 said:

Yes.  In and out of the right side.

 

Thank-you, Abilene.

[Doc Fill 'Em 67797]

You can also think of installing the sight (right to left) is the same as loading the rifle. You remove the sight (left to right) the same way as the empty brass comes out of the rifle. With your ‘73 it comes out the top and can go anywhere, but you get the idea. 

[Mysterious Stranger]

29 minutes ago, Doc Fill 'Em 67797 said:

You can also think of installing the sight (right to left) is the same as loading the rifle. You remove the sight (left to right) the same way as the empty brass comes out of the rifle. With your ‘73 it comes out the top and can go anywhere, but you get the idea. 

 

Yes! Thank-you that makes it easy to remember! 

[Abilene, SASS # 27489]

6 hours ago, Doc Fill 'Em 67797 said:

You can also think of installing the sight (right to left) is the same as loading the rifle. You remove the sight (left to right) the same way as the empty brass comes out of the rifle. With your ‘73 it comes out the top and can go anywhere, but you get the idea. 

That would be even more true if he had a Marlin