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I won a Franchi Affinity 3 Shotgun


Pat Riot

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Only thing I know about them is a good friend was gonna buy a used one from someone.  They went out to a field, he loaded three, seller threw a van into the air, friend shot at the can. It went full auto, fired all three.  Seller said, “Oh yeah, it’ll do that every once in awhile “. :)

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Just now, Pulp, SASS#28319 said:

Only thing I know about them is a good friend was gonna buy a used one from someone.  They went out to a field, he loaded three, seller threw a van into the air, friend shot at the can. It went full auto, fired all three.  Seller said, “Oh yeah, it’ll do that every once in awhile “. :)

Sounds like a gunsmith is in order. That would be fun…once. :lol:

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1 hour ago, Pulp, SASS#28319 said:

Only thing I know about them is a good friend was gonna buy a used one from someone.  They went out to a field, he loaded three, seller threw a van into the air, friend shot at the can. It went full auto, fired all three.  Seller said, “Oh yeah, it’ll do that every once in awhile “. :)

 

When sellers can throw vans into the air...I'd buy anything that he asked me to.

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If you’re looking for chokes there’s always Briley, I have a Merkel SC gun with them and they are excellent, I’ve used allot of Trulocks  and found them to be excellent quality and pattern well and typically a little more affordable that Briley 

https://trulockchokes.com

If you want to spend the big bucks , but they seem to be the recognized king and are definitely great quality 

https://www.briley.com
 

Ive measured allot of chokes over the years and I’ve found both of these are more consistent than most factory chokes and are usually offered in far more constrictions to get you the pattern density you’re looking for. Allot of people also seem to like Carlsons I just have very limited experience with them.

Years ago Hastings used to make chokes for most popular manufacturers in .002 increments with a numbering system on them . I don’t know if they still do but it was the best set up I had seen to get you to the exact constriction you are looking for. It was probably also great for sales because I remember a few guys that bought just about every one that fit their discipline “trap, skeet or SC” to experiment with 

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Thanks @Buckshot Bob  Good info. 
 

The gun came with IC, M & F chokes. My first goal is to get an extra full or turkey choke and pattern it for turkey hunting. That starts April 17th. 
My next goal will be to hit a shotgun range and talk with a pro about setting my gun up for me and maybe some skeet, trap, sporting clays shooting and maybe later down the road some upland bird hunting. 
 

It’s funny, in all the time I have been shooting I have never really dabbled in shotguns except for cowboy action, Turkey hunting and tactical shooting. I shot a little trap and skeet, but it wasn’t much and I don’t think a Mossberg 500 with the 26” modified barrel that came with it really counts for a trap & skeet gun. :lol:
 

 

 

 

I’d like to plug Otto with a shotgun…

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@Buckshot Bob

I have a question.
What grease should one use for shotgun chokes? Is there a specific type? Would Mobil 1 grease be okay?

I read that choke threads should be greased, but I cannot find any info on type of grease. 

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20 minutes ago, Pat Riot, SASS #13748 said:

@Buckshot Bob

I have a question.
What grease should one use for shotgun chokes? Is there a specific type? Would Mobil 1 grease be okay?

I read that choke threads should be greased, but I cannot find any info on type of grease. 

Pat, I use Birchwood Casey choke grease, but I think any anti seize type grease would work. I've never had an issue removing one. Just don't tighten them like an Uberti tech.:P

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17 minutes ago, Pat Riot, SASS #13748 said:

@Buckshot Bob

I have a question.
What grease should one use for shotgun chokes? Is there a specific type? Would Mobil 1 grease be okay?

I read that choke threads should be greased, but I cannot find any info on type of grease. 

I’ve used this for over 30 years and never had a stuck choke tube, I always used it on customers guns and never had it come back to bite me. But if one of the choke tube manufacturers has something they recommend and you like it better I wouldn’t hesitate to use it . I think the key is actually using something and removing it occasionally and cleaning it. The birchwood casey looks allot like nickel anti-seize. Also makes a mess like it 

image.jpeg.ea1ce38f3e98e0672b1c8cab498eaccb.jpeg

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25 minutes ago, Buckshot Bob said:

I’ve used this for over 30 years and never had a stuck choke tube, I always used it on customers guns and never had it come back to bite me. But if one of the choke tube manufacturers has something they recommend and you like it better I wouldn’t hesitate to use it . I think the key is actually using something and removing it occasionally and cleaning it. The birchwood casey looks allot like nickel anti-seize. Also makes a mess like it 

image.jpeg.ea1ce38f3e98e0672b1c8cab498eaccb.jpeg

Thank you very much. I will buy this. 

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3 minutes ago, Pat Riot, SASS #13748 said:

Thank you very much. I will buy this. 

Also forgot to say when you use it before you open it massage the tooth paste tube a little bit. The oil in the grease tends to separate a little when the tube sits for a while 

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3 minutes ago, Buckshot Bob said:

Also forgot to say when you use it before you open it massage the tooth paste tube a little bit. The oil in the grease tends to separate a little when the tube sits for a while 

Yes. Thank you for the reminder. Anti-seize tends to separate. I just ordered a tube from Amazon. 
 

Another question:

Benelli Mobil chokes have the threads near the top or wrench end of the choke. Should I just grease the threads or the threads and the tube?

image.thumb.jpeg.55f770a1379c2ea87af676197b5297a9.jpeg

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I do just the choke tube, lived up to the "ski" in my last name and near got a finger stuck in a barrel many moons ago! :rolleyes:

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1 minute ago, Pat Riot, SASS #13748 said:

Yes. Thank you for the reminder. Anti-seize tends to separate. I just ordered a tube from Amazon. 
 

Another question:

Benelli Mobil chokes have the threads near the top or wrench end of the choke. Should I just grease the threads or the threads and the tube?

image.thumb.jpeg.55f770a1379c2ea87af676197b5297a9.jpeg

I would do the threads liberally and put some on the body, choke’s don’t always seal perfectly at the rear shoulder on the choke . It’s enough of a perceived problem browning did this 

https://www.browning.com/products/shooting-accessories/choke-tubes/invector-ds.html

I have a new model Browning sweet 16 with these chokes. But I honestly never tried them when I got the gun I bought a set of Trulocks , trulock does not use the brass band and I haven’t had any problems with them. I personally prefer the extended knurled chokes for the ease of changing them, and because I believe they protect the muzzle. I’ve seen it quite a few times where someone falls hunting or drops their gun and damages the muzzle. Then you can have a heck of a time getting your choke out and straightening the bbl. Where if you have the extended choke in you just throw it away and buy a new one. The point also could be made that the extra length of the tube allows the taper of the construction to come over a longer period of time resulting is a better pattern, but that’s effect is probably minimal.

Some people find the look of the extended chokes offensive on a hunting gun, I agree on a SXS , but I use them on all my semi autos and O/U shotguns. Some doubles the bbls are too thin and close together to use extended tubes. 
The Beretta choke tube design is a good one , personally I’ve always liked the square threads they just seem to me that they are more durable and I like that they are at the front, carbon always seems to leak by the rear seal gumming up the threads on the rear V thread design. But in the end both work great as long as you maintain them. 

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4 minutes ago, Buckshot Bob said:

I would do the threads liberally and put some on the body, choke’s don’t always seal perfectly at the rear shoulder on the choke . It’s enough of a perceived problem browning did this 

https://www.browning.com/products/shooting-accessories/choke-tubes/invector-ds.html

I have a new model Browning sweet 16 with these chokes. But I honestly never tried them when I got the gun I bought a set of Trulocks , trulock does not use the brass band and I haven’t had any problems with them. I personally prefer the extended knurled chokes for the ease of changing them, and because I believe they protect the muzzle. I’ve seen it quite a few times where someone falls hunting or drops their gun and damages the muzzle. Then you can have a heck of a time getting your choke out and straightening the bbl. Where if you have the extended choke in you just throw it away and buy a new one. The point also could be made that the extra length of the tube allows the taper of the construction to come over a longer period of time resulting is a better pattern, but that’s effect is probably minimal.

Some people find the look of the extended chokes offensive on a hunting gun, I agree on a SXS , but I use them on all my semi autos and O/U shotguns. Some doubles the bbls are too thin and close together to use extended tubes. 
The Beretta choke tube design is a good one , personally I’ve always liked the square threads they just seem to me that they are more durable and I like that they are at the front, carbon always seems to leak by the rear seal gumming up the threads on the rear V thread design. But in the end both work great as long as you maintain them. 

Thank you Bob. I do appreciate it. Using extended tubes makes sense. I will look into getting a full set later on. 

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Just now, Pat Riot, SASS #13748 said:

Thank you Bob. I do appreciate it. Using extended tubes makes sense. I will look into getting a full set later on. 

Definitely shoot the gun a few times before you spend the money on accessories. Not saying you will, but you could hate it. Is it gas or inertia? Gas typically shoots softer, inertia typically has less maintenance. Since you generally point a shotgun unless you’re hunting deer, turkey or people where you would aim, the fit of a shotgun to you is extremely important. Did the gun come with a set of shims for cast off/on, comb height? Also do they sell pads or spacers to adjust lop ? This all used to have to be done manually but some manufacturers have got very good at having setups that allow the consumer to adjust the gun to themselves. I’ve also seen aftermarket shim sets for some of the more popular models. You’re gun may have other parts in common with berettas other than the choke tubes 

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11 minutes ago, Buckshot Bob said:

Definitely shoot the gun a few times before you spend the money on accessories. Not saying you will, but you could hate it. Is it gas or inertia? Gas typically shoots softer, inertia typically has less maintenance. Since you generally point a shotgun unless you’re hunting deer, turkey or people where you would aim, the fit of a shotgun to you is extremely important. Did the gun come with a set of shims for cast off/on, comb height? Also do they sell pads or spacers to adjust lop ? This all used to have to be done manually but some manufacturers have got very good at having setups that allow the consumer to adjust the gun to themselves. I’ve also seen aftermarket shim sets for some of the more popular models. You’re gun may have other parts in common with berettas other than the choke tubes 

It is an inertia system. 
The shotgun did come with shims for the front of the stock for adjusting aim but it didn’t come with length of pull shins. I believe these can be purchased from Franchi. 
 

And you’re right about shooting it for a while before buying lots of accessories. Learned my lesson on that a long time ago. :D Thank you. 

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