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Original 73 Winchester


Longmire44

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Looking at picking up an original Winchester 73' in 44-40. I was wondering if there is anything particular to look for when picking one up? Anything to watch out for? Been watching Gunbroker but it's hard to pay decent money for something without looking at it first. Thanks for any advice.

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Most original 73s will have considerable collector "price premium" applied.  Making the purchase cost fairly high.  If the price is a low ball, be aware that parts to fix what is most likely keeping the price low will be real expensive or have to be made by hand.

 

If you are planning to "just shoot" the gun, buy one of the replica 1873 rifles instead (most made by Uberti or Miroku).   Only a few original Winchesters are shot in SASS because lots of wear and tear will happen during matches. 

 

16 minutes ago, Longmire44 said:

anything particular to look for when picking one up?

Tons of ways to get a bad one.  Always better to inspect and even test fire.   GunBroker is an easy way to not understand what you are buying, unless it is a new replica gun by a reputable manufacturer.   Although it is slightly safer than buying at a gun show or from a local ad.  If you have no experience with the 73, buying a new replica may well be your best, safest path.

 

good luck, GJ

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Thanks for the advice. I actually have a Uberti 73 chambered in 357 already. Just looking to pick up one to occasionally shoot.

I keep checking the local gun shops but they usually don't come across vintage Winchester's. Not sure how much they pop up in the classified section.

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I have an original 3thd version in 38WCF.  Shooting it is literally stepping back to horse and buggy days. Mine has a rotten bore but still shoots good enough.  Parts for original are hard to find.  I guess they can be "slicked up" but it would distract from the collector value.  

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I bought mine from a SASS member here on the Wire Classifieds. Probably the only way I would buy one other than in person. If you go the GunBroker route, I'd only buy from a reputable FFL dealer with verifiable feedback. In full disclosure, I did buy an original '92 that way and was very happy with it.

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3 minutes ago, Warden Callaway said:

I have an original 3thd version in 38WCF.  Shooting it is literally stepping back to horse and buggy days. Mine has a rotten bore but still shoots good enough.  Parts for original are hard to find.  I guess they can be "slicked up" but it would distract from the collector value.  

 

I shoot mine (38WCF from 1890) once or twice a year, usually on the last stage of a match where I'm not shooting clean. It always makes me smile, no matter how badly I've shot up till then. 

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29 minutes ago, Rattlesnake Slim said:

 

I shoot mine (38WCF from 1890) once or twice a year, usually on the last stage of a match where I'm not shooting clean. It always makes me smile, no matter how badly I've shot up till then. 

I debated on the 38 WCF, but have decided to pursue the 44WCF. Seems like it's a little easier to find components for, not much these days. I have been slowing picking up everything to reload it. 

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One thing to look out for is cracks in the "knee joint" of the toggle links. Years ago I had one that did have cracks in the left-hand link. At the time, I was writing an article on shooting the '73 for Handloader Magazine. I contacted Val Forgett at Navy Arms and he very kindly provided me with a set. I had to fit the rear surface to the recoil surfaces in the receiver, but after that it functioned fine.  The only problem I ran into was the groove diameter of the rifling was .430", and the chamber was tight enough to accommodate only .428" bullets.  Shooting .429" jacketed softpoints with smokeless powder produced acceptable accuracy, but it worked much better with BP and soft lead bullets.

In point of fact, I have found groove diameters of many old Winchesters to run all over the place. If you are looking for a shooter, best see if the seller will let you slug the barrel.

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5 minutes ago, Longmire44 said:

I debated on the 38 WCF, but have decided to pursue the 44WCF. Seems like it's a little easier to find components for, not much these days. I have been slowing picking up everything to reload it. 

 

Me too. But the 38WCF was what was in my hands at my favorite toy store.  It wasn't hard then to pull together 38WCF brass, dies, etc then.  

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1 hour ago, Abilene, SASS # 27489 said:

A 44-40 in shootable condition will cost more than a 38-40 or 32-20, if that makes a difference.

I have been noticing that for sure. I passed on a couple 38-40 that looked pretty decent. Definitely second guessed myself a few times.

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My 73 is in .32-20.    I bought it in that caliber because that's the caliber it was in when I found the gun.

I have absolutely come to love the caliber.   As it is, I have that 73, a 92, and a Colt Lightning.   I have found that .32-20's are much less expensive than .44-40s, So much so that all of my .44-40 rifles, with one exception, are reproductions.  (The one original I have in that caliber is a Colt Lightning.)

Anyway, if you really want a real Winchester 73 to use as a shooter, I recommend the .32-20.  Bullets cost a lot less, and brass is easier to find than .38-40.   .44-40 is relatively easy to come by components for too.   The real problem with a .44-40 Winchester is that a good shootable one is likely to be bookoo expensive.  You can still get the .32 for a surprisingly affordable price.

BUT, finding revolvers in .32-20 can be problematic...  :)

 

That being said, if you want real Colts to go with that real Winchester, Colt Bisleys in .32-20 seem to go for far less than a "standard" 1st Gen SAA or even other Bisley Colts.

To that end...  :)1524673119_73andBisley.thumb.JPG.46cb6896547755ec0e4e2f743aa12f9e.JPG
 

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Got original Winchester 92 in 32WCF. Got several Marlins in 32WCF. Got a Colt generation in 32WCF. Got a pair of Cimarron Lightning with extra cylinders in 32WCF. 

 

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Thanks for everyones help. I got a little ahead of the game and already bought everything to reload the 44-40. I have most everything to cast my own bullets. Probably should have waited but I just couldn't help myself.

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I have owned four complete-game-working original 73s and one parts gun.  I shot only bp/subs in my .38 WCFs and eventually sold them.  My first 73 is a .32 WCF that I still shoot occasionally.  That lighter powder load and thicker chamber (due to the smaller chambering) was my choice.  My 92s are in .38 WCF and have a much stronger action.

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Most original '73's found for sale are full length rifles.  A .32 '73 is gonna be a pretty heavy gun!  That's one reason I bought a '92 carbine in 32-20 (plus '92's cost less than '73's).  

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7 hours ago, Abilene, SASS # 27489 said:

Most original '73's found for sale are full length rifles.  A .32 '73 is gonna be a pretty heavy gun!  That's one reason I bought a '92 carbine in 32-20 (plus '92's cost less than '73's).  

While I will say that my 92 with a 20" round barrel is much lighter than my 73 with a 24" octagon one, I do not find the weight to be all that significant.

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I have one I would sell, 1873 made in 1891, 3rd model saddle ring carbine 44-40 round barrel.  The good, the original wood is in good shape with no cracks. I think the only things it needs mechanically are a firing pin spring and a magazine spring.  Everything else is there and works. No cracks in the toggle links.  Has some very minor pitting on the side plates and frame.   The bad, the bore is rough like most of these that shot black powder.  It is missing the butt plate but they are available, the rear sight isn't correct but again they are available, and someone years and years ago blued it.  Although the bore is rough it would probably shoot but if I was going to shoot it a lot I would probably have it re-lined.  If you are interested send me a pm and I can get you some pics. 

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