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Non SASS die info request


Eyesa Horg

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Thinking about reloading 9mm.

For shear convenience, if I could find a conversion with tool head for an SDB would be the easiest. Also, I was looking at a 3 die LEE set that I could use on my turret press.

Would I also need to get a separate crimp die or would the LEE seat/crimp die be satisfactory? I don't expect to be loading lots of them, maybe a hundred at a time now and then. Thanks for your input.

Eyesa

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I seat and crimp ALL my .45 auto rounds in a combination seat/crimp die.    Don't see why you can't use a combination die for 9 MM just as well.  Just adjust according to instructions - depth first with crimping adjusted out of the way, then bring crimp part into play while keeping your intended Over All Length (OAL).

 

The Speer Reloading manual has a long section of instructions for handgun loading, with several pointers for 9 MM especially (which I have never loaded for - cartridge doesn't meet my personal minimum standards for "capability" - like "if it don't start with 4 I'm gonna want more").

 

Some points from that manual that strike me immediately.

 

First, several different manufacturers make a 3-die pistol set for 9 MM.   Including RCBS.  This of course has a combination seater/crimp die.  The explanation right from the Speer manual is:

"Independent tests have shown this system for simultaneous seating and taper crimping usually provides better accuracy than the older system of seating and crimping in separate operations."

 

Second, you will certainly need to apply a taper crimp (never a roll crimp, even if you load bullets that have a crimp groove or cannelure), so the cartridge can headspace properly on the mouth of the case. 

 

Third - like most semi-auto cartridge loading, you have to "plunk test" the loaded rounds, especially as you get started loading or you make any die adjustments later on.  A plunk test is done by dropping a round into the chamber of the barrel (removed from frame/slide) and verifying it fits flush with the end of the chamber.  If you can get a "loaded-round testing gauge," that can be even more convenient to verify the correct sizing of the finished rounds you load.

 

It may make sense to lay in a copy of the Speer loading manual just for the advice it passes on about semi-auto loading.

 

good luck, GJ

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First off make sure the dies you choose are carbide, not only do they require less effort to use but they never scratch and they seem to collect less dirt during use, RCBS makes a good set but Lee offers a die thats undersized .002 ( see Cholla link above ) I use them on my 38 and 9mm reloads, they also make for a stiff neck tension on the bullet to keep them in place in case you’re using one of those pistols you load on Sunday and shoot all week, grab a few extra decaping pins as well because Murphy WILL slip in a military case with a crimped primer every now and then just to test your patience !

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The Lee 4 die sets are really hard to beat for the money, my Dillon dies have always worked well. The lee fcd has been praised by many a reloader 

https://www.titanreloading.com/product-category/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-pistol-reloading-dies/

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Thanks for the info, I've had good fortune loading .45acp with the Dillon SDB dies and using a case gage to get the crimp right. Have also used a barrel for that purpose. A new manual sure can't hurt anything and will add to the library. My Speer manual is from the 90s !

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3 minutes ago, Eyesa Horg said:

Thanks for the info, I've had good fortune loading .45acp with the Dillon SDB dies and using a case gage to get the crimp right. Have also used a barrel for that purpose. A new manual sure can't hurt anything and will add to the library. My Speer manual is from the 90s !

I think your die selection may be determined by what press you decide to use. The Dillon is what it is and if you’re only going to load 100 rounds occasionally do you want to have to switch the press over ? I don’t own a turret press but it seems like the powder through capability of the lee die would be nice because you don’t need to remove the case from the press to charge it. And if you’re press has 4 stations you can take advantage of the fcd 

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I have to agree that the Lee 4 die set is hard to beat for the money and does and danged fine job.  However, the bullet seating and taper crimp can be done in the same position with the 3 die set, it's just a bit more difficult to set up and maintain.  I would also like to comment that especially if using range or once fired brass that there is a lot of it out there with crimped in primers (military).  This makes it almost impossible to seat a new primer unless the primer pocket is reamed back to size.  Personally, I sort all my previously fired 9mm brass by headstamp and only reload the civilian manufactured brass like Winchester, RP, and the like, or use brass manufactured for us reloaders like Starline.  This saves a lot of headaches when trying to load on the press.    

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I seat and crimp separately on my 550B. Just seems to work out better that way. I'm using RCBS dies for decap and seating. I'm using a Dillon crimp die. 

 

A couple of things to be aware of when reloading 9mm luger...

- Some of the brass may be unsuitable for reloading unless it has been full length resized. This is due to Glock, and maybe a few other manufacturers, use of "unsupported chambers". The brass will sometimes have a slight bulge near the base of the brass. Sometimes it's hard to see it before reloading. It's best to use a go/no go gauge on every round reloaded.

- Getting the taper crimp set correctly is imperative. Too little and the round will recess into the case and could cause a compressed powder situation which is not good on the 9mm round.

- On a press with auto-index or even manually indexed, the transition turn between the powder drop and seating will probably spill some powder out of the case. On the 550B, it's not too hard to control if you are smooth with the turn. I have heard others say that they hate reloading 9mm on auto-index machines because there is not much of a way to make the transition smoothly. You milage may vary on that one.

- I've had the best results with Winchester 231 regardless of bullet weight.

- As mentioned by others, brass with crimped primers can be a real pita and hard to spot. Another thing that I've noticed is small flash holes in some brass. I've broken some decap pins on both over the years.

 

Good luck on your 9mm reloading. It's still cheaper that factory ammo.

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1 hour ago, Buckshot Bob said:

I think your die selection may be determined by what press you decide to use. The Dillon is what it is and if you’re only going to load 100 rounds occasionally do you want to have to switch the press over ? I don’t own a turret press but it seems like the powder through capability of the lee die would be nice because you don’t need to remove the case from the press to charge it. And if you’re press has 4 stations you can take advantage of the fcd 

My turret is a 3 hole lee, but I have an extra tool head with my crimp dies mounted. Quick to change heads.

On my SDB, I already load 4 different calibers and it only takes a minute or two to switch tool heads, 4 screws. Add another minute to switch primer size. Easy peasy. That's why I'd like to find a conversation for the SDB. I've loaded quite a few 45acp on it and haven't had any cycling issues, so I think the 9mm should be ok too. That's the reason for the post, to see if anyone has any issues with SDB dies for 9mm. It would be cheaper to go with a LEE die set however, just slower. The lee 4 die set would separate the seat and crimp function as well. Not sure if I have a small primers setup for the lee though! Might have to hand prime!

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Another hint.  Although case lube is not required with a carbide die, you will notice that sizing takes a bit more pressure.  I found it is a lot easier to use a little case lube to make life much easier.

 

You can buy it or mix a 10 to 1 solution of high grade alcohol (91 % min 98% preferred.) and liquid lanolin in a spray bottle.

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7 minutes ago, Marauder SASS #13056 said:

Another hint.  Although case lube is not required with a carbide die, you will notice that sizing takes a bit more pressure.  I found it is a lot easier to use a little case lube to make life much easier.

 

You can buy it or mix a 10 to 1 solution of high grade alcohol (91 % min 98% preferred.) and liquid lanolin in a spray bottle.

I fully agree and always use lube, you can definitely feel the difference. I make my own as well. The red bottle of HEET is 98% alc. and 12oz., just add an ounce of liquid lanolin. Last a long time in a spray bottle and not real greasy. I do tumble loaded rounds for a minute or 2 in corn cob with a little mineral spirits to clean them however.

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2 hours ago, Cypress Sun said:

I seat and crimp separately on my 550B. Just seems to work out better that way. I'm using RCBS dies for decap and seating. I'm using a Dillon crimp die. 

 

A couple of things to be aware of when reloading 9mm luger...

- Some of the brass may be unsuitable for reloading unless it has been full length resized. This is due to Glock, and maybe a few other manufacturers, use of "unsupported chambers". The brass will sometimes have a slight bulge near the base of the brass. Sometimes it's hard to see it before reloading. It's best to use a go/no go gauge on every round reloaded.

- Getting the taper crimp set correctly is imperative. Too little and the round will recess into the case and could cause a compressed powder situation which is not good on the 9mm round.

- On a press with auto-index or even manually indexed, the transition turn between the powder drop and seating will probably spill some powder out of the case. On the 550B, it's not too hard to control if you are smooth with the turn. I have heard others say that they hate reloading 9mm on auto-index machines because there is not much of a way to make the transition smoothly. You milage may vary on that one.

- I've had the best results with Winchester 231 regardless of bullet weight.

- As mentioned by others, brass with crimped primers can be a real pita and hard to spot. Another thing that I've noticed is small flash holes in some brass. I've broken some decap pins on both over the years.

 

Good luck on your 9mm reloading. It's still cheaper that factory ammo.

I like to use a case gauge when setting the crimp. I start large and tighten until they slip into the gauge. So far so good! Hoping 9mm will be as cooperative.

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1 hour ago, Eyesa Horg said:

My turret is a 3 hole lee, but I have an extra tool head with my crimp dies mounted. Quick to change heads.

On my SDB, I already load 4 different calibers and it only takes a minute or two to switch tool heads, 4 screws. Add another minute to switch primer size. Easy peasy. That's why I'd like to find a conversation for the SDB. I've loaded quite a few 45acp on it and haven't had any cycling issues, so I think the 9mm should be ok too. That's the reason for the post, to see if anyone has any issues with SDB dies for 9mm. It would be cheaper to go with a LEE die set however, just slower. The lee 4 die set would separate the seat and crimp function as well. Not sure if I have a small primers setup for the lee though! Might have to hand prime!

Well with the Dillon you’re already separating the seating and crimping steps. I never have owned a sdb . If it’s that easy to switch I personally would go that route, especially if some day you decide you’re going to shoot more 9mm. I’ve got a 550 that’s the first press I had where you seat and crimp in a different die, after doing that I wouldn’t want to go back to doing it in one step like I used to do in a single stage. I feel it produces more consistent results 

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