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Are you screwed?


Buckshot Bob

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I got this really nice old Marlin 1894 well over 100 years old that I figure had never been taken apart.  All screws were fine. But the one that the carrier pivoted on wouldn't turn.  I put penetrating oil on it every time I had it out. Finally it broke loose.

 

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Hello, thanks for video...
Forgot about that Kroil stuff, dad used to sell it on his MATCO tool truck.
   Seems online is only source for Kroil these days
Shoulda tried your suggestions before shredding the cover plate screw on brand new 1873.

Like the drill press technique.

 

You did not mention impact screwdriver - are those no recommended on guns? 
 

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I have used several methods to break rusted screws free 

 

 when using heat , I will heat untill the oil smokes , then hit it with another dose of oil 

 

 the drill press method , can be a bit of a pain to set up , close to the old "screw Jack " method 

 

 I have set up a temp screw jack with a c clamp , the inpacts will do the job , but are a bit harder to free hand IMO 

 

  Chickasaw 

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37 minutes ago, Capt Kirk said:

Hello, thanks for video...
Forgot about that Kroil stuff, dad used to sell it on his MATCO tool truck.
   Seems online is only source for Kroil these days
Shoulda tried your suggestions before shredding the cover plate screw on brand new 1873.

Like the drill press technique.

 

You did not mention impact screwdriver - are those no recommended on guns? 
 

Our local NAPA's keep it in stock.

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1 hour ago, Capt Kirk said:

Hello, thanks for video...
Forgot about that Kroil stuff, dad used to sell it on his MATCO tool truck.
   Seems online is only source for Kroil these days
Shoulda tried your suggestions before shredding the cover plate screw on brand new 1873.

Like the drill press technique.

 

You did not mention impact screwdriver - are those no recommended on guns? 
 

Brownells sells Kroil and I’ve seen it in a few hardware stores and gunshops/sporting goods stores. Kroil and JB bore paste have been a standby for years for very fouled and dark bores.
I personally would rather use the drill press than an impact driver, there’s just less chance of damaging the gun. But I know many people who do use them. If you break your bit or the screw head typically something sharp is going to be sliding across the gun 

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One thing he did wrong was to use an adjustable wrench to apply additional torque. Watch closely and you'll notice that he kept having to adjust the jaws of the adjustable wrench to keep it from slipping on the hex bit.

 

When you want to add additional torque with a wrench DO NOT use an adjustable wrench. Especially on 1/4" drive hex bits.  Instead use a 1/4" 6 point box end wrench. 

 

Adjustable wrenches will often slip when used on 1/4" hex bits. In addition to rounding the shaft of the bit, it can cause you to cam out of the screw slot or scratch the finish of the firearm.

 

I much prefer to use a quality hex bit extension in the drill press. Allows you to use quality hollow ground gun smith bits and the hex shaft of the extension will allow you to use the same box end wrench you used before. 

 

You also will not risk damaging the chuck key hole in the chuck. 

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If you don't have access to a drill press another technique that you can try is the buddy system.

 

You invite over a friend and have him or her only apply pressure to the screw driver to prevent the bit from camming out of the slot.  It helps if they put their upper body directly over the screw and use their upper body to not only apply pressure but use it to keep the screw driver perfectly inline with the screw.

 

You in turn use a wrench and only apply torque. Taking care to not cause the screw driver to be pushed out of alignment.

 

Successfully removed a lot of stuck screws using this method when I was in the Navy. 

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2 hours ago, Sedalia Dave said:

One thing he did wrong was to use an adjustable wrench to apply additional torque. 

When I was young one of the first things my father ever taught me was to only use an adjustable wrench when you have no other options. It always surprises me how many people’s favorite tools are a set of channel locks and a crescent wrench. 
BTW craftsman, Stanley plus and I’m sure a few other screwdrivers handles are designed to be used with a box end wrench or a socket. I’ve used a Stanley screwdriver with a socket and a  T handle or a box end wrench in a drill press many times 

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I ripped this off but I bet most of you know what I'm talking about...... 

TOOLS EXPLAINED

DRILL PRESS :
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL :
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh*t'

ANGLE GRINDER :
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS :
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER :
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW :
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

MOLE-GRIPS : Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXY-ACETYLENE TORCH :
Used almost entirely for setting on fire various flammable objects in your shop. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race..

TABLE SAW :
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK :
Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

BAND SAW :
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST :
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER :
 Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER :
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.

PRY BAR :
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50p part.

HOSE CUTTER :
A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER :
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.

STANLEY KNIFE :
 Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

ADJUSTABLE SPANNER:
aka "Another hammer", aka "the Swedish Nut Lathe", aka "Crescent Wrench". Commonly used as a one size fits all wrench, usually results in rounding off nut heads before the use of pliers. Will randomly adjust size between bolts, resulting in busted knuckles, curse words, and multiple threats to any inanimate objects within the immediate vicinity.

BASTARD TOOL :
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Bastard' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

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