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For Sale: New .38 S&W Starline Brass -Price Reduced


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New .38 S&W Starline Brass For Sale

(Price Reduced)

 

I have three two batches of new unprimed Starline .38 S&W [NOT .38 Smith & Wesson Special!!!] brass for sale at a reduced price of $70 per batch of 200 shipped in the US.

 

Thank you for looking.

 

Professor Thoreau

Life SASS # 2611

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BTT for a Pard

 

Note to potential buyers. I have a couple of 38S&W’s and over many yrs have a sufficient cache of brass. Otherwise I’d seriously consider this.

 

The cartridge dates to (sources vary) 1868ish. A stunning amount of its brass dates way, way back. Even really old stuff can be “camouflaged” as newer if sufficiently tumbled and polished. Translation: a lot of what you find available is old enough to be iffy for reloading and may even be hazardous, especially if it was fired with black powder and not cleaned promptly.

 

I don’t have any Starline brass in 38S&W but will comfortably assume it’s as strong and durable as their other products.

 

IMHO a reasonable price for brand-new Starline brass.

 

Just my 2€
 

Keep on the sunny side 

 

Adios 

 

Fort Reno Kid 

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Professor Thoreau

 

You are very welcome. Perhaps we agree that the 38 S&W is an under appreciated cartridge.  Multi-decades back I recall an article in a shooting publication that gave some more powerful loads for this cartridge that approached 38 Special ballistics. Even in those bygone days before fears of litigation loomed heavy, the author stressed the loads were ONLY for modern, solid-frame revolvers. Looking at old “Gun Digest” and “Shooter’s Bible” publications, one can note that Colt and Smith&Wesson produced modern, solid-frame (as well as strong top-break) revolvers in 38 S&W into the 1960’s and possibly into the 1970’s.

 

Believe the author noted that the 9mm and 38 S&W cases (rimless and rimmed, respectively) were very similar in size and powder capacity. That said, he did NOT recommend using 9mm load data even in a strong, modern pistol.

 

I once loaded some hotter ammo for a WWII-era S&W 38 S&W and it worked fine. Sticking cases were a prudent reminder to ease back a bit on the throttle. Then … and then … awareness of human frailties set in. I realized I’d loaded both factory-equivalent loads and hotter loads and mixed them in.  Not anxious to damage the old pistol and the hand holding it, I proceeded to fire all the hand loaded rounds in the modern pistol until all cartridges were expended.

 

Since then I have only loaded 38 S&W ammo to factory spec. 
 

Side note to those with a revolver in 9mm (mine is a short-barrel Ruger SP101). Look at older loading manuals, the ones that listed light 38S&W loads for top-breaks, and use those in the revolver (they won’t function an auto-loader). You’ll wind up with a pleasant, light-recoiling load that is a joy to shoot. Yes, the Ruger is strong enough and safe enough for +P loads but firing them is not the most pleasant of experiences. The light loads are easy on the hand, the ears, and the pocket book.

 

Apologies for the length and verbosity of this post. Hope there might be a wee kernel or two that provides perspective.

 

Keep on the sunny side 

 

Adios

 

Fort Reno Kid 

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Howdy Fort Reno Kid,

 

A good part of life is sharing and learning.  I thank you for sharing the above good information so we can learn without re-inventing the wheel and maybe hurting ourselves in the process!!

 

Professor Thoreau

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