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Short stroke using cut/weld lever?


Matthew Duncan

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In order to load the rifle (‘66 or ‘73) do you need to open the action a little for the link to clear the loading gate?

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Someone I know had a cut/weld gun, and recently the loading gate wouldn't push in.  My first suggestion was that it might be hitting the lifter spring, which can happen in some cases especially if the mounting screw is not tight which allows the spring to rise enough to interfere.  He took the rifle apart later and noticed the gate was hitting the edge of the links.  My thought was that perhaps he had had an AD which bent the lever or something a bit, but he was sure that hadn't happened in the stage which preceded the beginning of the problem.  So, he calls the 'smith who did the cut/weld, who told him to shave off a bit off the link where it was hitting.  That surprised me, but he did and it seems to work fine now.  FWIW.  

 

I would suggest checking to be sure the gate spring is tight and if there is any up/down play in the gate that could into play.

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27 minutes ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

No.  If the rifle was built correctly, the Ladle should clear the link with no problem.

 

In my admittedly limited understanding, the lever geometry is changed, and an action job done.  Other than that, do the other internals stay the same? 

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2 hours ago, Matthew Duncan said:

In order to load the rifle (‘66 or ‘73) do you need to open the action a little for the link to clear the loading gate?

 

Are you having a problem?  If so you need to provide more details.

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7 minutes ago, Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 said:

 

Are you having a problem?  If so you need to provide more details.

No Problems…just asking.

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26 minutes ago, Crusty Knees said:

 

In my admittedly limited understanding, the lever geometry is changed, and an action job done.  Other than that, do the other internals stay the same? 

Cam lever is modified too.

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15 minutes ago, Crusty Knees said:

 

Ok, I don't know these things.  I'm sorta trying to find out stuff as I go.  I've just figured out what end of the screwdriver to use :lol: 

 

I’m trying to figure these things out too.  There is difference in the ends of screwdrivers?  :o

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29 minutes ago, Matthew Duncan said:

There is difference in the ends of screwdrivers?

 

Yes there is.  Here is how the screwdriver should be employed.  If you use the pointy end you might mar the finish. ;)

 

286374804_DSC_0003(1).thumb.jpeg.5f7e61328a42f69e971c2e868d2a700e.jpeg

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3 minutes ago, J.S. Sooner, SASS #73526 said:

Well, I would look at the change more like a divorce anyway.  Unless, like some that have cut and weld, ss kit and unaltered rifles in their harem; not married to any gunsmith.  

If a part breaks...falls out of tolerance...whatever...on a "kit" SS, you can always resort to:

 

A: Put the stock parts back in.

B: Have a new part sent to ya.

C: Send back to the guy that built it

D: Shoot your back-up

E: Go fishing

 

If a part breaks...falls out of tolerance...whatever...on a Cut/Weld, you can always resort to:

 

A: Send it back to the guy that built it

B: Shoot your back-up

C: Go fishing

 

Phantom

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I only have one '66, a Uberti, and I did a bit of clearancing to solve that issue. The ladle runs real close to the toggle. The stock links were clearances enough, the short stroke one, not so much. If the ladle gets loose at all it wanders about a bit and it will not clear the toggle. 

 

1141417544_Stocktoggles.thumb.jpg.b504cb0f6fc779b04306f1cc01dc728a.jpg

 

As you can see in the picture, the RH link has a bit of clearance work from the factory. The ladle doesn't have much clearance in a 66. 

 

1573784719_Comparetoshortstroke..thumb.jpg.5fde64074b9d3993c217432870dc2773.jpg

 

It gets a bit interesting when the geometry changes for the short stroke. And if you JB the ladle, don't get too carried away. 

 

BB

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2 hours ago, Phantom, SASS #54973 said:

If a part breaks...falls out of tolerance...whatever...on a "kit" SS, you can always resort to:

 

A: Put the stock parts back in.

B: Have a new part sent to ya.

C: Send back to the guy that built it

D: Shoot your back-up

E: Go fishing

 

If a part breaks...falls out of tolerance...whatever...on a Cut/Weld, you can always resort to:

 

A: Send it back to the guy that built it

B: Shoot your back-up

C: Go fishing

 

Phantom

Or in my case give it to Shotgun Boogie at EOT and let him fix it.

 

 Randy 

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  Do you really save anything by going with C/W v. one of the newer kits with lower cost?

(I am just asking here)

 

Replaceable interchangeable parts, as a concept, was adopted by industry way back in the Elias Howe (Sewing Machine mfg.) days, specifically to get away from the cost of hand fitting each part in manufacture and repair.  

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24 minutes ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

Don't confuse having been "over Buffed" to the point of being prematurely worn out as "slick."  

Just another in the long line of “flavor of the month” gunsmiths. Seen many come and go. Eventually someone fools people into thinking they have built a better mousetrap. 

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48 minutes ago, doc roy l. pain said:

Just another in the long line of “flavor of the month” gunsmiths. Seen many come and go. Eventually someone fools people into thinking they have built a better mousetrap. 

Who's fooled folks into thinking that they've built a better mousetrap?

 

Seems to me that those gunsmiths that have come along after the Cut/Weld era have significantly bettered the SS design.

 

Phantom

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