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Brand new Varquero, Already having projects


SouthSide Rider 112668

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New guy here! In both Sass and this forum, so excuse any forum errors. 
 

just bought 2 brand new .357 vaqueros. $1600 and 10 Rds later one  is already acting up :mellow:

Shot the 10 rounds flawlessly, no problem unloading. Placed them back in there cases and drove home.

 

when I pulled the one out it would not cock! hammer will pull back roughly 1/4 of the way back and freeze’s up. Pulled the cylinder out, put it back in, just put the cylinder pin in still nothing. 

 

Just wondering how much I’ll be Sh!t out of luck waiting around for ruger to fix it! 
 

so well  for spending extra on a more “quality” gun 

 

I’m sure someone else has had this problem with there Rugers and has a “happy ending” and/or how to fix the problem. ( I’d rather it not be sent out for weeks on end if it’s just a common burr that just has to be removed. 

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I know you said you pulled the cylinder. But be sure the cylinder pin is all the in. It acts upon the transfer bar and won't allow the gun to cock if it is not fully seated.

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I would get rid of them. I will give you $750 sight unseen!   

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Good advice listed above.  Rugers our quality guns and seldomly have serious problems.  I have had to send a few Rugers back over the years, but never for any really serious problems.  I've always been well treated by their service department.

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Howdy

 

There is a spring loaded plunger at the rear of the cylinder base pin.

 

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When you cock the hammer, the transfer bar rises. The job of the spring loaded plunger is to push the transfer bar back as it rises. If the cylinder pin is not securely locked all the way to the rear, the plunger cannot do its job, and the transfer bar can get caught under the frame mounted firing pin, preventing the hammer from being cocked.

 

This photo shows the position of the transfer bar with the hammer at full cock. Notice the transfer bar has cleared the firing pin. If the cylinder pin is not pushed all the way back, the transfer bar can get caught under the firing pin.

 

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Alright shooters, did some more digging after school today and compared it with my dads varquaros. 
transfer bar is getting stuck behind the firing pin, for whatever reason with the cylinder removed it doesn’t get stuck. 
also note the transfer bar is “crooked” 

 

send er back to Ruger? 

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1AAE7E2B-10DA-4784-8ACF-E778742E4529.jpeg

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Send them to either Lassiter or Jimmy Spurs. Jimmy might be quicker. They either one can do a great action job…and get rid of the transfer bars. You can only load 5 safely then…and they will put in a halfcock notch. Fantastic action jobs. I have a few of them…about 350 or so apiece. Well worth the money.

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Before I sent them to Ruger I'd take them to a match and ask if there's anyone that can look at them in person. Very hard to troubleshoot just with pics on the internet.  

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10 hours ago, SouthSide Rider 112668 said:

Well I swapped the center pins, did not help. Tried swapping the cylinders, ( couldn’t) 

 

“bad gun” center pin on the left, 

 

doesn’t make sense that, after you unjam the xfer bar it will work fine until you open and than close the loading gate. 

3A27AA21-4778-459D-9597-272775813970.jpeg

Time to call Ruger

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13 hours ago, Tyrel Cody said:

Before I sent them to Ruger I'd take them to a match and ask if there's anyone that can look at them in person. Very hard to troubleshoot just with pics on the internet.  

I agree with TC here. Before I'd send them off I'd take them to a match and have someone who knows the rugers take a look. A lot of the shooters know rugers very well and can most likely determine if there actually is a problem or if it's an assembly issue, up and to including completely stripping the gun down, inspecting the plunger and pawl springs, gate detent spring, strut, ect. making sure they are all correct, and reassembling. It only takes a few minutes. If you don't install them just right it could cause issues and the factory isn't perfect. You may end up having to send them back anyway, but it may save you a lot of wait time.

 

Also, if you do have plans to do action work on them just avoid sending them to Ruger and get them to Jimmy Spurs, Lassiter, or any of the other smiths that do awesome work in this sport. They will just remove or repair anything Ruger would do to repair this issue anyway and again you'll save some down time.

 

JEL 

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58 minutes ago, John E. Law said:

or repair anything Ruger would do to repair

and charge you for it...

 

Hope there isn't a fatal flaw...

 

Oh, and Ruger is usually very fast in dealing with repairs...but...what do I know (rhetorical question).

 

Phantom

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