Best ultrasonic cleaner solution

[The Revenuer]

I just recently purchased a Lyman ultrasonic cleaner for gun parts.   I used there solution for cleaning the cylinders for our stainless steel Vaqueros and it did a decent job.  
 

I’m curious what everyone else is using for cleaning solution and what all parts do you clean in the ultrasonic.  
 

Thanks! 

[Creeker, SASS #43022]

I got my ultrasonic cleaner when I used to work at a pawn shop and the shop upgraded to newer units.

So mine is a smaller unit (designed for jewelry) (ultrasonic and heated) that is only sized for internal parts and pistol frames.

 

I use the same thing that we used in the shop - Pine Sol.

 

Mine is good for loosening crud and preparing the part for wipedown and further scrubbing if needed (cylinder faces, 73 carriers, etc.) but guns get a lot nastier than wedding rings and I haven't seen it "clean" a crud covered, powder burned, grease encrusted part to showroom shine without some additional effort (no matter what cleaning solution I have used).

[John E. Law]

I use the Simple Green Extreme Marine formula and it works great. Don't let the name fool you it is a lot milder than plain Simple Green. Simple Green can damage some finished such as TiN. 

 

JEL

 

[Yellowstone Vic SASS#32968]

Right or Wrong…this is my procedure…

 

I use “simple green professional”. 
 It is purple in color and pH neutral. 
 

Regular simple green is not pH neutral and definitely will cause issues with aluminum. 
 

Ultrasonic works well but heavy crud still has to be scrubbed.  Regular cleaning is a prudent approach. 
 

I run my tank heater at 120 deg F and follow cleaning with a hot water rinse,  full lubricant immersion (WD40) because all the oils

have been stripped and then a blow dry with compressed air. 
 

Pistol barrels, revolver cylinders, “long gun accessories”  and jewelry, have all been through mine.

 

Vic 
 

 

[The Revenuer]

1 hour ago, Creeker, SASS #43022 said:

I got my ultrasonic cleaner when I used to work at a pawn shop and the shop upgraded to newer units.

So mine is a smaller unit (designed for jewelry) (ultrasonic and heated) that is only sized for internal parts and pistol frames.

 

I use the same thing that we used in the shop - Pine Sol.

 

Mine is good for loosening crud and preparing the part for wipedown and further scrubbing if needed (cylinder faces, 73 carriers, etc.) but guns get a lot nastier than wedding rings and I haven't seen it "clean" a crud covered, powder burned, grease encrusted part to showroom shine without some additional effort (no matter what cleaning solution I have used).

How far do you strip down pistol frames before putting them in the cleaner? 

[Toranado, SASS # 58447]

I've used Chem-crest 235.  A very good cleaner but a bit expensive right now with the cost of shipping.   Recently I've been using: UltraSonic GunCleaner Solution from Northwest Enterprises.   Purchased on Amazon.   Reasonably priced and delivered with Amazon Prime and has worked well.

 

I take the grips off (not in cleaner) and disassemble the cylinder, pin, ejector housing accessories and place all in the Ultrasonic cleaner with hammer cocked to get some stuff in there.

[Creeker, SASS #43022]

28 minutes ago, The Revenuer said:

How far do you strip down pistol frames before putting them in the cleaner? 

If I can, I usually avoid placing springs into the unit (probably doesnt hurt them but I just do).

SAA revolvers get completely torn down - but they're easy and the grip frame removal helps them fit better submerged.

 

Semi autos get torn down to major sub assemblies depending on how ambitious Im feeling.

 

I generally dont put polymer components in the unit.  Again, likely wouldnt hurt, but...

 

I have a big tupperware container that I pour the Pine Sol into for soaking the parts too big for the ultrasonic.  A toothbrush for knocking the crud off after.  Put the lid back on the tupperware and seal it up when Im done.  Throw it out when I can no longer tell what color the Pine Sol was originally or find parts in it.