Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

Uberti Remington 1858 New Army (Conversion) guidance


Equanimous Phil

Recommended Posts

Howdy

 

So far, my only wheel guns are Uberti Cattleman with barrels from 4" to 5.5" and I am happy with them. But, I'd like to have some revolvers with longer barrels and I extremely like the looks of the 8" 1858 Remington Army! As none of my pards of our small club owns one, I haven't handled one myself yet. I will visit a retailer on Saturday who has some in stock and if they feel right I will buy a pair in .45 Colt.

 

As I am unfamiliar with those models, what do I have an eye on and specifically check? The guns might be shelf warmers of older production. Were there any significant changes in the last years? I know that they have a rather heavy hammer spring and I probably have to grab a file or look for aftermarket springs. Are there any parts that typically break and I should have a spare?

 

All inputs appreciated!

 

Equanimous Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the 58's hammer spring tension can be adjusted to some extent via a small screw on the front side of the grip a little below the trigger guard. See the below Pic

 

Remingtonapart.jpg?fg_force_rendering_mode=LayoutTree&fireglass_rsn=true#fireglass_params&tabid=ab2f820859879f3f&start_with_session_counter=4&application_server_address=l3harris-w11.prod.fire.glass

If you want even less tension than this affords you can use colt style mainsprings. You will have to fashion a small spacer out of some aluminum as the original main spring is double thickness where it inserts into the frame. See pic below.

 

resources?rid=ba22ad107719e317b5cb1b031a172d8e6ec2c1950ec31cbcad0f0d58118dc2bf&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.henrykrank.com%2Fwp%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2021%2F09%2F78fd153cc5811867bc7edc155236eebb.jpg&cid=__FGL__37403962bf5f4e92c4ed6b95ac275ae81dd33ebe0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000&bdk=cookiesEncryptionDisabled&eid=8

 

When making this spacer be sure the edges that touch the mainspring are radiused so that the spring is not pushing against a sharp edge.

Its been a while since I owned one so I can't remember if a Colt spring needs its length shortened or not. If it does shorten the end that fits into the frame. 

 

Remember that mainspring tension is your friend in C&B pistols. The tension is what keeps the cap from being pushed back into the action when firing. C&B pistols with overly light hammer springs will have significantly more blow back into the hammer channel.

 

About the only part that ever fails is the hand spring. Some seem to last forever while others don't. Replacements almost always have to be fitted to the gun.  The easiest way to fit the new spring is to insert a piece of snug fitting drill rod into the screw hole so that the old and replacement hands are aligned to each other. Clamp in place, then using a jewelers file make the new hand match the old. Go slow and test fit often.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, Sedalia Dave said:

On the 58's hammer spring tension can be adjusted to some extent via a small screw on the front side of the grip a little below the trigger guard. See the below Pic

Good to know!! :)

 

39 minutes ago, Sedalia Dave said:

If you want even less tension than this affords you can use colt style mainsprings.

I have spare mainsprings for SAA at home (Wolff) and can check how much work is needed.

 

39 minutes ago, Sedalia Dave said:

Remember that mainspring tension is your friend in C&B pistols. The tension is what keeps the cap from being pushed back into the action when firing. C&B pistols with overly light hammer springs will have significantly more blow back into the hammer channel.

May be a dumb question... , but is this still an issue with conversion cylinders (45 Colt)?

 

39 minutes ago, Sedalia Dave said:

About the only part that ever fails is the hand spring. Some seem to last forever while others don't. Replacements almost always have to be fitted to the gun.  The easiest way to fit the new spring is to insert a piece of snug fitting drill rod into the screw hole so that the old and replacement hands are aligned to each other. Clamp in place, then using a jewelers file make the new hand match the old. Go slow and test fit often.

Many thanks for that tip!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Equanimous Phil said:

May be a dumb question... , but is this still an issue with conversion cylinders (45 Colt)?

 

Not a dumb question.

 

In cartridge guns hammer spring strength doesn't effect blowby. Only in C&B guns.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I may opine on this subject. The allure of a long barrel quickly fades once used. I would recommend the 1858 conversions with 5 1/2" barrels. I think you would be happier with the shorter barrel in the long run. Just my humble opinion. Good luck with whichever barrel length you choose!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have two 1858's, 1 with 5.5 inch barrel and 1 with 8" barrel. I like the 5.5 way better than the 8. I guess if I had a drop holster it wouldn't be so bad with the 8" but it takes a long pull upwards to clear leather and my shoulder just doesn't like it. So will be cutting the 8" to about 4.5" barrel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your inputs! I guess clearing the leather won't be an issue for me with the 8" but I will have to see how they balance in my hand. I have to add that our game is played in a rather oldfashined style over here (Switzerland) with often smaller and further out pistol targets. You have to aim hard sometimes (and still miss...) So, I also hope for a bit more accuracy with the bigger sight radius. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Equanimous Phil said:

Thanks for your inputs! I guess clearing the leather won't be an issue for me with the 8" but I will have to see how they balance in my hand. I have to add that our game is played in a rather oldfashined style over here (Switzerland) with often smaller and further out pistol targets. You have to aim hard sometimes (and still miss...) So, I also hope for a bit more accuracy with the bigger sight radius. 

 

That's why I have a selection of pistols with longer barrels. For me at least, the increased sight radius helps. I also discovered that thinner grips reduce the number of misses. Even though they don't feel that much different than stock grips.

 

When i started shooting pistols with long barrels I had a set of drop loop holsters made to facilitate drawing and reholstering. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My main match pistols are 7-1/2" 1875 Remington Outlaws. I shoot 38s. They look like 1858s but give a little extra room between the grip and rear of the trigger guard. I've never used the sights though. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Mister Badly said:

My main match pistols are 7-1/2" 1875 Remington Outlaws. I shoot 38s. They look like 1858s but give a little extra room between the grip and rear of the trigger guard. I've never used the sights though. ;)

I'd love to shoot some outlaws. Like my 1858's but the added knuckle room on the outlaw would be great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 1875 are nice guns, for sure. But for me that design somehow resembles more a Colt SAA than a 1858, I guess particularly because of the fluted cylinder.

I look forward to handle the guns on Saturday. Then I will see if it's a match :)

And if I buy, I will need some new holsters for them anyway. Probably, I will have them made with a slight drop, but still with the handles above the belt to be CC compliant.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.