Question on refinishing grips

[Turkey Flats Jack]

I have a pair of grips that I'd like to strip and refinish. They've got such a red hue they almost look fake to me. What's the best way to strip the clear coat? I'd prefer not to sand if I can. Also any recommendations on what top coal to use once I've stained them again would be appreciated. 

 

Thanks,

 

T.F. Jack 

[G W Wade]

Citri-strip works good on Uberti stocks       GW

[Abilene, SASS # 27489]

After staining (after stripping, the wood will probably be light colored), folks use a variety of things to finish.  Tru-Oil, Formby's, etc.  The last one I refinished I used Ballistol for the oil finish and it turned out great.

[Reverend P. Babcock Chase]

Howdy TFJ,

 

I second Citri-strip. Then I recommend TruOil. Lightly scuff with 400 grit between coats, then a final buff with 0000 steel wool. If done right with patience, an almost glass-like finish can be achieved. Or, just a couple of coats of oil to let the grain texture show.

 

Rev. Chase

[John E. Law]

While I am NOT an expert...I just made my first set of grips, I did do a lot of research prior. 

 

I would use the Citri-Strip, that's great stuff and pretty mild chemical wise. 

 

Then, depending on the finish I would use 400 grit plus to get them as smooth as I could. If you have a Dremel or polishing wheel give them a good polish, you can use a dry wheel, and then seal them with some finishing wax. I cannot believe how good mine turned out. About a semi-gloss sheen, the wax brought out the character of the grain (Zebrawood), and they don't slip in your hands even though they're a smooth finish.

 

I myself would NOT put any type of oil like linseed on them. That stuff leaks out of the wood when it's gets hot, even on old wood that's been treated that way and has a dry appearance, and IMO would make a mess.  

 

JEL

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

Take a look at the inside surface of the Uberti grips.  If that is a peachy to light pink color wood, you probably will be more pleased getting replacement grips.   Uberti is kinda  famous for spraying on a combination red stain/polyurethane finish.  Cheap, fast, and even simulates some grain, whether the wood really has any or not.

 

After stripping, if you have trouble with the residual red stain not being able to be tamed by applying a brown stain over it, I've had good luck pulling it out by soaking the walnut for a day in Naptha (aka white gas, aka Zippo fuel).   Not auto gasoline - too many extra additives   Takes out ALL remaining gun oil and oil based stain.  Do this outdoors away from fire sources.

 

Let dry for a couple of days.  Then do the final prep work and apply finish. 

 

Agree - avoid all sanding.  If needed, use some bronze wool to knock off any whiskers and saw dust.

 

Disagree that a proper linseed oil based gun finish will "leak" oil.  I use both TruOil and LinSpeed (both are modified boiled linseed oil finishes).  I shoot in some of the hottest weather around (like Tombstone and Phoenix).   Never have had the finish ooze anything or even soften.  Linseed oil polymerizes (like plastic) with the oxygen in the air, and it can take a few days to couple of weeks for this to happen.   But applied in thin coats and with the correct waiting periods, I have not found any finish that is as deep and easy to repair if scratched or chipped as the gun type linseed oils.   And it's totally "authentic."

 

good luck, GJ

[John E. Law]

1 hour ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

Disagree that a proper linseed oil based gun finish will "leak" oil. 

That's fine to disagree, however the interweb is loaded with articles and forums describing and asking about how to fix tacky linseed oil finishes. YMMV

 

JEL

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

Which is why one needs to follow the directions, and not use standard hardware store "boiled linseed oil" or even worse, raw linseed oil.  They may be cheap, but they have real drying/hardening problems.  I've got over 25 guns with TO or LS finish.  It just plain works, regardless of what various forums have led folks to believe.

 

Each coat MUST be applied very thinly and allowed to set well.   A clean hand is the best application tool.  Certainly not a bristle brush or even a lint-free cloth.

 

And, if you use a rag to spread or pickup linseed for any reason, even for cleaning the floor, realize it is an auto-ignition problem as the linseed oil polymerizes.  Discard those oily rags in a metal covered bucket until they dry out.

 

good luck, GJ

[Eyesa Horg]

2 hours ago, John E. Law said:

That's fine to disagree, however the interweb is loaded with articles and forums describing and asking about how to fix tacky linseed oil finishes. YMMV

 

JEL

I refinished my Stoeger stock with Tru Oil. It has 30 hand rubbed coats to fill all the pores and has never "leaked" oil even in hot sun. It's a beautiful finish and easy to apply.

Back when I did it, I found an article on the Rim Fire forum that suggested a coat of Armor All , then rub on Tru oil with your fingers. It drys really really fast. You can do coat after coat. I did 10 at a time with absolutely no issues.

[Choctaw Jack]

+1 to Garrison Joe's post. I've done lots of stocks using Tru-Oil or my personal favorite, Lin-Speed Oil, and never had a problem with "oozing" or softening.

Some of my stocks have 25+ years on these oil type finishes, and are still in great shape.

Of course, YMMV .

Choctaw

[Dusty Devil Dale]

Some wood species like Cherry or Cocobolo have a natural red hue that can only be covered up using something darker.  

 

For re-coloring, I use water-alcohol soluble woodworkers vegetable dyes, available in many shades and from many sources, such as Woodcraft.   Unlike stain, they are not formulated with wood pulp that plugs grain pores and dulls natural grain luster.  The natural grain remains prominent.

 Any quality dark walnut dye will cover the red color.  You can work with whatever dilution you prefer and build color depth gradually to what you prefer.  Colors can be blended. 

 It washes off your hands and clothes (grudgingly) with soap and water.   It penetrates deeply, dries quickly and slightly lighter in color, and can be reapplied for more color depth. 

 

It can be covered with any of the oils or modern water- based (2-part) polymer finishes mentioned here by others.   

 

Burnishing the wood before coloring, using a stainless steel round burnisher will add to its final luster. 

 

If you use a torch or heat gun for darkening wood or stripping a top coat, be aware that pistol grips can warp very easily under heat.  be sure to keep them well clamped to a flat surface like a flat piece of steel or aluminum until completely cool.  

 

Good luck.  

You'll like working with the dyes if you try them.  

[John E. Law]

16 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

 

 

14 hours ago, Eyesa Horg said:

 

 

11 hours ago, Choctaw Jack said:

 

 

Gentleman, I am not saying Linseed oil is a bad product to finish wood with. I have done several rifle stocks with it, my M1A super match has one of the most beautiful stocks you will find on one of those and I finished it with Linseed oil. Bruce Dow took one look at my rifle and said that it was THE most beautiful stock he'd ever seen on any M14/M1A and if you know who Bruce is that says a lot.

 

What I'm saying is that it can be difficult using it especially on old wood that's been treated and now being refinished. I also said me personally would not use it on handgrips due to this fact that although none of you have ever experienced it IT IS a problem if not done correctly. 

 

IMO it sounded to me like the OP was looking for a simple way to refinish his grips. A polished waxed finish is very easy to do and it provides very nice long lasting results. 

 

Not everyone is an "expert", but if I have offended anyone I apologize.

 

JEL

 

 

[Dusty Devil Dale]

5 hours ago, John E. Law said:

 

 

 

Gentleman, I am not saying Linseed oil is a bad product to finish wood with. I have done several rifle stocks with it, my M1A super match has one of the most beautiful stocks you will find on one of those and I finished it with Linseed oil. Bruce Dow took one look at my rifle and said that it was THE most beautiful stock he'd ever seen on any M14/M1A and if you know who Bruce is that says a lot.

 

What I'm saying is that it can be difficult using it especially on old wood that's been treated and now being refinished. I also said me personally would not use it on handgrips due to this fact that although none of you have ever experienced it IT IS a problem if not done correctly. 

 

IMO it sounded to me like the OP was looking for a simple way to refinish his grips. A polished waxed finish is very easy to do and it provides very nice long lasting results. 

 

Not everyone is an "expert", but if I have offended anyone I apologize.

 

JEL

 

 

Don't ever fret over offending people here on the Wire. Almost all discussions here have a way of finding disagreements.  Just try to stay in a helpful mode and all of the hundreds of "views" (folks who read but do not comment) will appreciate your time and effort  spent.  

 

Your comments about the plant oils are generally correct.  Being pure oils, they are time-stable and do not chemically transform.  They can be hardened, either by dessication (requiring both time and warmth) or by being  chemically combined by the supplier with volatile drying or stabilizing agents. 

With those  treatmens, the pliability and oiliness becomes much less noticeable.  But without them,  the oils will remain pliant and tacky until they eventually absorb deeply into the wood and/or surface-adhere to enough  environmental dirt, grime and air pollutant sludge to polish smooth.  That condition is acceptable-- even preferred--  for many, and gives the aura of an older gun.  But it does occlude wood pores and therefore steal some of the brightness from the natural wood.  

 

There are some very good 2-part polymer clear-coat finishes available now that are impermeable to water, gun solvents and lubricants and which allow custom surface finishing (glossy, matte, etc).

 

They are actually formulated as automotive clear-coat finishes, but they've been discovered by the musical instrument, firearm and furniture  (woodworking) industries and are in broad usage; sold as catalyzed, water- based Urethanes.  Many different ones are available (even in states that restrict most finishing products).

They run on the expensive side; most of the better products are sold only by the gallon at prices North of $200. 

 

They are water soluble, self leveling, and can either be brushed or sprayed.  They dry fully in an hour to a beautiful hard finish that can be final sanded, polished, or treated with light abrasives like powdered rottenstone or Cerium Oxide to get the texture you want.  They are true durable polymers.  

 

It takes so little material to do a gunstock or grips that groups of friends might consider jointly buying the expensive bulk material and sharing. 

 

Results are easy to achieve and  consistently very nice. 

 

Everybody will have their preferences.  Over many years I have tried all of the finishing techniques and I like most of them, for different uses.  All have their place. 

 

I'm just trying to add some breath to the conversation here.