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Snakebite

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So, @Snakebite, with the pins, you also use the soap and lemishine?

 

Is it for the abrasiveness of the pins?

 

And for those that don't use the pins, is the fact that the brass is rubbing up against each other in the mixture the abrasive? And, if that's the case, do you tend to have to load more or less brass?

 

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7 minutes ago, Branchwater Jack SASS #88854 said:

So, @Snakebite, with the pins, you also use the soap and lemishine?

 

Is it for the abrasiveness of the pins?

 

And for those that don't use the pins, is the fact that the brass is rubbing up against each other in the mixture the abrasive? And, if that's the case, do you tend to have to load more or less brass?

 

 

Use Strato Sheen it is an abrasive.

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Ha! Nothing like starting a controversy. (It's a slow day... and yeah, LG... I'm out of meds!) Everyone has their favorite method. I have Vibrator cleaners, Ultrasonic cleaners and the Rebel 17 Tumbler. I've used every possible formula that I've seen listed here on the wire. Most of them do a good job of actually cleaning the brass, certainly good enough to reload. However... none of them makes the brass shine like the pins, Lemi-shine and a squirt of Dawn. I know that many folks claim that their brass is like new just using Strato-Sheen. I tried that too. It worked well.... but I was never able to get the brass to shine like it does after using the pins. So I'm all for everyone doing it their way.... I just believe the pins work best, and I don't have any problem separating them using the separator that came with the Tumbler. 

 

Snakebite

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I like the fact that (if) anything gets spilled, a regular magnet picks it up very quickly. Those ceramic magnets cost too much.

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My functional specs only call for clean of fouling and grit.

And since I have no lizard, I at least have use for lizard litter.

 

good luck, GJ

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3 minutes ago, john brown said:

I thought Winter was over?:D

San Antonio had consecutive 100 degree days Saturday and Sunday for the earliest dates in recorded history.  So yeah, it's over here!

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4 hours ago, Snakebite said:

Ha! Nothing like starting a controversy. (It's a slow day... and yeah, LG... I'm out of meds!) Everyone has their favorite method. I have Vibrator cleaners, Ultrasonic cleaners and the Rebel 17 Tumbler. I've used every possible formula that I've seen listed here on the wire. Most of them do a good job of actually cleaning the brass, certainly good enough to reload. However... none of them makes the brass shine like the pins, Lemi-shine and a squirt of Dawn. I know that many folks claim that their brass is like new just using Strato-Sheen. I tried that too. It worked well.... but I was never able to get the brass to shine like it does after using the pins. So I'm all for everyone doing it their way.... I just believe the pins work best, and I don't have any problem separating them using the separator that came with the Tumbler. 

 

Snakebite

How long do you usually tumble them for?

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"Best" is such a subjective term... I've used a vibratory cleaner for more'n 40 years...   It works very well... In my experience it's not "best" for cleaning cases after firing BP in them...   After sliding along a goodly amount of the "learning curve", I found that using a sonic cleaner was "better"... 

 

I truly suspect that "best" is very much like participating in a match... Some folks think the "BEST" way is to move thru the scenario and shoot as quickly as possible.  And then there are folks that might be at the other end of the spectrum and feel that at all costs one should be penalty free.  Still others seem to think costuming and appearances are the end-all and be-all of participation.

 

Exactly which outlook is "BEST"?    Transference of what one perceives to be a problem onto a possibly related or very dissimilar subject is indicative of something...  But, I slept thru that part of my psychology class and can't help you Snakebite!

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 I use the steel pins, Dawn and Lemishine.   It gets them shiny enough. 

Shiny doesn't really seem to matter very much for the shooting, but it is an advantage for quicker brass picking in ranges with gravel or lawn. 

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10 hours ago, Snakebite said:

I like the fact that (if) anything gets spilled, a regular magnet picks it up very quickly. Those ceramic magnets cost too much.

The ceramic separates far easier from brass than SS pins.

I dump the tumbler into a good sized wire "basket". Spillage is not an issue.

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44 minutes ago, Rye Miles #13621 said:

I don't need no stinkin' shiny brass!:P

I guess that being dull is ok.

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3 hours ago, Buckshot Bear said:

20220106_102730.thumb.jpg.2eb6f03a0e1a42d702270e84b54a2b28.jpg.7d64b7bfee27daca2d34010bf905e72d.jpg

 

20220106_143801.thumb.jpg.342aaf2791916f90b15dd46429f5223a.jpg.a2ae38c2724793542198eed0744cd4f8.jpg

Photographic proof that shiney cases before being used are no asset in aiding brass pickers to clearly spot and recover brass in grassy, rocky, dirt, or especially a combination of all three environments.  For your brass to be easier to spot, it should look like the bottom photo AFTER being fired!  Quit fooling yourselves and figure that trick out... report back in detail.

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4 minutes ago, Griff said:

Photographic proof that shiney cases before being used are no asset in aiding brass pickers to clearly spot and recover brass in grassy, rocky, dirt, or especially a combination of all three environments.  For your brass to be easier to spot, it should look like the bottom photo AFTER being fired!  Quit fooling yourselves and figure that trick out... report back in detail.

44WCF !!!

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6 minutes ago, Griff said:

Photographic proof that shiney cases before being used are no asset in aiding brass pickers to clearly spot and recover brass in grassy, rocky, dirt, or especially a combination of all three environments.  For your brass to be easier to spot, it should look like the bottom photo AFTER being fired!  Quit fooling yourselves and figure that trick out... report back in detail.

1 minute ago, Ranger Dan said:

44WCF !!!

Non-responsive.  While it may be better at sealing from chamber gases during the actual firing... once the extraction process begins, its rearward movement sucks those very same gases back onto the case making them only slightly less dirty that other cartridges... ;)  How do I know this... I ran a hundred new cases thru my Lightning and only found 97 in my backyard range.... That's standing in one spot and firing all in groups of 10... not running around a stage with the ejection port facing in several different attitudes... :ph34r:

 

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3 minutes ago, Griff said:

Non-responsive.  While it may be better at sealing from chamber gases during the actual firing... once the extraction process begins, its rearward movement sucks those very same gases back onto the case making them only slightly less dirty that other cartridges... ;)  How do I know this... I ran a hundred new cases thru my Lightning and only found 97 in my backyard range.... That's standing in one spot and firing all in groups of 10... not running around a stage with the ejection port facing in several different attitudes... :ph34r:

 

Jus cuz you caint see em, don't mean they aint shiny. I stand by my statement. 44WCF shiny cases even after firing... :P

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1 hour ago, Hendo said:

That's just silly.

Everyone knows it's Mopar or no car.

:ph34r:

Pretty sure he was talking about p/us... I'm sure there's a good reason Mopar is the 3rd place American car manufacturer... 

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16 hours ago, Hendo said:

How long do you usually tumble them for? Normally two hours or so. Sometimes three if the brass was really ugly.

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4 hours ago, Branchwater Jack SASS #88854 said:

So somebody tell me the reason to use stainless steel pins over the smaller stainless pieces that are cut at a diagonal.

 

Is it because those smaller ones could get stuck sideways in a case?

I've heard that those little diagonal pieces come in from China, and that each one of them have a micro chip built in that monitors every piece of brass that is tumbled. They then send a report to the BATF who logs what brass you have and then puts your name on a list as to what guns to look for when they decide to come to your house and confiscate your firearms. Of course, I might be wrong, I heard it on one of Tucker Carlson's rants. :wacko: 

 

(I must admit that I've not tried them)

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i gotta admit that based on the posted photos this method does make them look brand new , does it reduce serviceable life cycle ? mine get clean and somewhat shiny but over time i see that deteriorate , i dont mind a duller look as long as they are clean and workable - i have gotten some "back" that were BP use and those never clean to the finish shown above , im still contemplating switching my process - gonna take investment im not yet ready to make - my way is working for now , i dont need another headache 

 

oh and if its getting reported i dont need that either LOL 

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20 hours ago, Griff said:

Photographic proof that shiney cases before being used are no asset in aiding brass pickers to clearly spot and recover brass in grassy, rocky, dirt, or especially a combination of all three environments.  For your brass to be easier to spot, it should look like the bottom photo AFTER being fired!  Quit fooling yourselves and figure that trick out... report back in detail.

 

You shoot your brass and I'll shoot mine. 

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23 hours ago, Snakebite said:

I guess that being dull is ok.

The gun don't know the difference and they've never complained about it!:P

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I have tried the tumbler with and without the pins, with and without the stat-o-shine,  with pins the insides are consistently cleaner. For me the deal breaker is how much smoother they run through the dillon when loading. I shoot a lot of black powder, the wife doesn’t but all the brass is mixed. 

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On 5/11/2022 at 12:18 AM, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

I have found my stained brass shoots just as good as that "Bright" stuff.  Wash, Dry, 30 Minutes inna Lizard Litter - DONE.

 

Dirty cars also get you from A to B just fine ..... but a lot of folks take pride in having a clean shiny car.

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