Removing roll pins

[German Jim]

Having the proper sized punch, when removing roll pins from a firearm, do you:

1.  remove from the right?

2. remove from the left?

3. does it matter at all?

4. does it matter the type (rifle, pistol, or shotgun)?

5. does it matter if the pin is solid or hollow?

6. just do it the same on all your firearms?

7. does it matter on the firearm manufacturer?

 

Oops.  I forgot Top to Bottom such as on a bolt

 

 

Thanks

 

 

[Sedalia Dave]

If it is a true roll pin (hollow spring steel) the direction does not matter. If it is a solid steel pin then it matters. On firearms roll pins need to be removed with the correct punches if you don't want to mar the surface.

 

When it comes to solid pins the make and model matters. For removal, I have seen some that have to be driven left to Right. I have also see some that have to be driver right to left.

 

The only consistent direction across all makes and models are dovetail sights. They are always removed driving left to right.

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

A roll pin is never solid.  It's always a rolled piece of springy sheet stock.   You can see the hole in each end of the pin (unless it has been severely mangled).  It's the springy nature of the pin trying to expand in diameter which helps retain it in it's hole without some other locking mechanism - like peening base metal over the end of the pin, staking, interference fit, riveting the end, adding a second cross pin to hold the pin, etc).  Best to use roll pin punch that best fits the roll pin you are working on.   Using a solid punch can (under severe circumstances) smash the wall of the roll pin and perhaps lock it in place.

 

If you have a solid pin and can't see which end was driven in with a punch, then usually it's been placed in a regular drilled (straight wall) hole, and thus can be tapped out in either direction.  If you do see some punch marks, first attempt ought to be to drive it out from the unmarked end.  In one way, out by backing the pin out (the other way)

 

A "directional" solid pin is very unusual, in my experience.  Just because it's expensive to make either a tapered hole or a tapered pin.

 

good luck, GJ

[German Jim]

Sedalia Dave & Garrison Joe:

Thank you very much.  You guys gave me the answer and specifics.

[Sedalia Dave]

53 minutes ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

A "directional" solid pin is very unusual, in my experience.  Just because it's expensive to make either a tapered hole or a tapered pin.

 

Seen directional pins in a couple of shotgun receivers. Pin was not tapered but had a slightly enlarged head Only a  couple thousandths but enough to make it directional. Also have seen pins knurled on one end. Again only a couple thousandths larger than the other end.

[Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933]

As noted by definition a "roll" is not solid.  In the U.S. they are rolled out of a single layer of steel and have a gap running down the length of the pin.  In Europe they are often rolled and have multiple layers with no gap.  A roll pin punch has a dimple on the tip to center the punch on the pin.

 

 

 

[Griff]

I would call that convex area on the drive end on a roll pin punch a button.   Dimple would imply it's concave... But that is really pickin' nits!  

[Dutch Nichols, SASS #6461]

Larsen you beat me to it about using a roll pin punch!!

Can't tell you how many roll pins I've seen smushed to all get out

due to table gunsmith hacks!!

[J.D. Daily]

On 4/30/2022 at 3:24 PM, Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 said:

As noted by definition a "roll" is not solid.  In the U.S. they are rolled out of a single layer of steel and have a gap running down the length of the pin.  In Europe they are often rolled and have multiple layers with no gap.  A roll pin punch has a dimple on the tip to center the punch on the pin.

 

 

 

There are roll pin starter punches that take a lot of frustration out of installing roll pins.  They are almost a necessity when building AR's.