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Uberti 1873 rifle loadgate modification?


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I have been searching for information on modifying the original loadgate on Uberti 1873 rifles into the thinner center section to allow easier loading. Is this something anyone has done or is it just better to bite the bullet and buy the 1866 loadgate that Shotgun Boogie sell's? I currently have 5 of these rifles and would rather modify originals than spend 250.00 for 5 replacements.

Any input welcome

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Yes, you can hourglass the standard Uberti '73 loading gate.   Only one of my '73's has had a professional action job, and that one is hourglassed.  Someone will pop in with a picture of how much to thin it.

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Anybody have a picture of one of these modified? Even one still in rifle would be good, just not sure how much to take off I have the mill and the tools to do it just need a sample to guide the final look.

 

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Thanks Randy exactly what I was looking for..... of to the cad cam we go :)

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3 minutes ago, Straight Arrow Hombre said:

Remember that heat is the enemy of springs. 

Funny you should mention that, I own and operate a commercial heat treating plant and often thought of the many things I can improve on many of our aftermarket parts. Making and heat treating springs, hardening link arms for rifles case hardening various trigger and hammer parts etc. I should have a black oxide line put in like we had years ago our black oxide was the same product Remington used to do there gun blueing :)

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Try one of those Shotgun Boggie 66 style loading gates on just one of your rifles.

 

 

I had one of the regular loading gates that is done like the one pictured by RSD. It's nice.

But the 66 style loading gate for SGB is still a lot better. JMHO. 

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1 hour ago, Will Burn Powder said:

Funny you should mention that, I own and operate a commercial heat treating plant and often thought of the many things I can improve on many of our aftermarket parts. Making and heat treating springs, hardening link arms for rifles case hardening various trigger and hammer parts etc. I should have a black oxide line put in like we had years ago our black oxide was the same product Remington used to do there gun blueing :)

You could have a hay day with your Uberti 73s. Screws, hammers, and triggers all will benefit from hardening. Also pioneer lifter arms were pretty soft, but I thought I heard that had been rectified to some extent. 

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34 minutes ago, Straight Arrow Hombre said:

You could have a hay day with your Uberti 73s. Screws, hammers, and triggers all will benefit from hardening. Also pioneer lifter arms were pretty soft, but I thought I heard that had been rectified to some extent. 

The biggest problem I face is after heat treating parts need to be case colored or black oxide neither of which I can do. Commercial heat treating makes good parts.....NOT good looking parts :)

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2 hours ago, Turkey Flats Jack said:

Done by boomstick arms in a Miroku 73. Not needed imo. 

20220413_140308.jpg

The huge difference in my opinion is when you have a reload on the clock, I load with my left hand through the loading gate.  
 

Randy

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2 hours ago, Randy Saint Eagle, SASS # 64903 said:

The huge difference in my opinion is when you have a reload on the clock, I load with my left hand through the loading gate.  
 

Randy

The fastest way to do a reload is whichever way you practice it. But over the top is less movements.

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6 hours ago, Straight Arrow Hombre said:

You could have a hay day with your Uberti 73s. Screws, hammers, and triggers all will benefit from hardening. Also pioneer lifter arms were pretty soft, but I thought I heard that had been rectified to some extent. 

I tried PGW lifter arms several years. It wore out after 12 months and I only shoot once a month. The shop I bought them from admitted they don't last long on their personal guns either. I switched over to wire springs (Slix Springs I think) and have had no problems since.

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The Boogie 66 gate has no "lip" to hinder loading for slicker loading. I really like them and best aftermarket accessory I ever got.

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11 hours ago, Turkey Flats Jack said:

The fastest way to do a reload is whichever way you practice it. But over the top is less movements.

TFJ I found to do the top load I needed to modify the 2 back corners of carrier block to get the round to feed in smoothly and not jump up and wedge as it slides across the top. I agree that the over the top is much faster than through the gate but requires practice and a smooth stroke.

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14 hours ago, Turkey Flats Jack said:

The fastest way to do a reload is whichever way you practice it. But over the top is less movements.

This is a video of me loading through the loading gate with my left hand. For me it’s the fastest others may be a lot faster loading from the top.

 Thanks 

Randy

 

 

 

 

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Dang fine/fast reload for sure I am gonna try 2 of Shotgun Boogies gates on my main rifles and then play with factory gates on my backup rifles. I have 4 because I like to shoot 44-40 most but have a set of 357/38 guns for when I run low on large pistol primers :)

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2 hours ago, Will Burn Powder said:

Dang fine/fast reload for sure I am gonna try 2 of Shotgun Boogies gates on my main rifles and then play with factory gates on my backup rifles. I have 4 because I like to shoot 44-40 most but have a set of 357/38 guns for when I run low on large pistol primers :)

I'd like to know what you think of them, I've been thinking trying 1.

 

Randy

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3 hours ago, Randy Saint Eagle, SASS # 64903 said:

This is a video of me loading through the loading gate with my left hand. For me it’s the fastest others may be a lot faster loading from the top.

 Thanks 

Randy

3F1E3559-EDFB-4034-A06B-B8E78CF55774.MOV 554.11 kB · 5 downloads  

 

 

 

This video shows the reload a little better.

 

 

 

Randy

Practice 012.MOV

 

Edited by Randy Saint Eagle, SASS # 64903
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18 minutes ago, Randy Saint Eagle, SASS # 64903 said:

'd like to know what you think of them, I've been thinking trying 1.

I have 2 ordered on the way, looking closely SBGW gates have a lot of good looking features that I have no doubt will make for a better loading rifle. Once I have his I can then use them for models to see how closely I can modify the originals to see how they work. I do the side reload with my right hand but you have me beat no doubt, I will need to do more practicing for now I will stick to top loading :)

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22 hours ago, Will Burn Powder said:

The biggest problem I face is after heat treating parts need to be case colored or black oxide neither of which I can do. Commercial heat treating makes good parts.....NOT good looking parts :)

 

:D

Sharpie.jpg

Edited by Shooting Bull
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