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Stripping/refinishing Stoeger SxS


Orient Express

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So I decided to strip and going to refinish my Stoeger Surpreme coachgun. I used citristrip which I wrapped in plastic and left for about 18hrs. I'm a bit disappointed in that it doesn't appear to have stripped much. The walnut has definitely lightened up but I would like it lighter before I apply Tru Oil. I'm now doing a second round of citristrip but realistically can I expect much more to be removed?

 

Also, the checkering is very feint as I think it's only pressed in. Can anyone please recommend some basic checkering tools I can use to recut them. I have no idea what LPI Stoeger uses.

 

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I have refinished a few stocks but I'm not an expert. That being said, once you get the old sealer and whatever finish is there off, the only way to lighten the wood would be some sort of wood bleach. I know they have it but I've never used it. I have tried Tru Oil but I didn't care for it. I have had good success with Minn Wax Wipe On Poly. 

 

As for recheckering your stocks, I have never tried to do it but I know Brownell's and Midway sell the checkering tools and the guy from Midway has videos of how to do it. 

 

Good luck!

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When I did my Stoeger, I sanded all the checkering off. I found info on refinishing on the Rimfire forum. Used Tru oil. Mixed with some mineral spirits for the first coats to seal the wood. Spray a light coat of AmourAll on and spread with fingers. Apply Truoil with fingers, it will dry real quick. You can just keep repeating this for as many coats as it takes. I did about 10 at a time and let set overnight. I did a total of 30 and it came out excellent. It was a tad too shiney, so I lightly scuffed it with 4ott steel wool. If you mess up a coat, just sand out with 400 and keep going. Tru Oil makes future touch up easy as well.

 

Good Luck

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I used citristrip on my supreme. It had what felt like 1/8” of poly on it. Let it sit for a couple hours and wiped it off. Looked like yours. I like the darker walnut finish so i just keep putting on linseed oil. Personal preference. Look into oxalic acid as a lightening agent. I still think it will darken over time. Furniture i built in walnut years ago darkened significantly even inside. Good luck. 

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Hydrogen Peroxide will bleach the wood and bring out some of the impurities.

Test it on an unexposed part of the stock before doing the whole thing. 

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Just did my (non supreme) Stoeger. Citristrip, 2 coats of Teak Oil to penetrate, 400 grip sand, 2 coats of Tru-Oil each followed by 400 grit sand, 3 coats of Tru-Oil with 4 ought steel wool, final coat of microcrystalline wax. I splintered the forend and eliminated the checkering. Reshaped the pistol grip to a rounded knob but avoided touching the checkering. Came out darn near like a fine, high end shotgun.

 

Rev. Chase

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20 hours ago, Orient Express said:

So I decided to strip and going to refinish my Stoeger Surpreme coachgun. I used citristrip which I wrapped in plastic and left for about 18hrs. I'm a bit disappointed in that it doesn't appear to have stripped much. The walnut has definitely lightened up but I would like it lighter before I apply Tru Oil. I'm now doing a second round of citristrip but realistically can I expect much more to be removed?

 

Also, the checkering is very feint as I think it's only pressed in. Can anyone please recommend some basic checkering tools I can use to recut them. I have no idea what LPI Stoeger uses.

 

28bf92fa29c0e87c6fcb20af9f9218a4.webp.011e13621a7ba0cceb4fcf9304487845.webpbd4451fdcc623fa749832490e1f06e33.webp.72477fc32e48d68b9fb47e19322c4466.webp

Use wood bleach (Oxalic Acid) to lighten the color further.   Even after it dries, it will keep lightening until you neutralize it.   Most good hardware stores sell it.   Keep the powder away from your eyes, mouth, skin and clothing.  

(All of the big guitar makers bleach the wood nearly white before coloring to assure even color.  )

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