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Travel trailers, what’s most important ?


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Good afternoon all, I know many of you travel the country to different matches and I was wondering what you found most important in your travel trailers ? I am looking to buy my first and last trailer and hope you might have some insights into what you found really important, I will be looking to keep two people and a big dog in comfort for a couple of weeks at most and on the average just a few days, would bet most of the time will be dry camping.

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I will say up front that I do not have a travel trailer. But, in my opinion, the most important thing is how well it pulls. If it fights you, if it sways back and forth, if it bounces on a rough road---

 

When you're pulling it down the highway you don't want to know that it's back there.

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We should be picking up our first and last trailer next month.   Here is what we listed as priorities:

- walk around queen bed.  Don't want to crawl over someone in the middle of the night to get to the restroom. 

- outside shower.

- on-board generator.  Check Arctic Fox and Nash trailers (Northwood Mfg).  I'm getting too old to lift a generator in and out of the truck. 

- compare roof and wall insulation.  I'm not worried too much about snow,  but I want to keep the heat out.

- dual pane windows. 

- cargo carrying capacity.  I looked at trailers with as little as 1,000 lbs. cargo capacity.  Our trailer will have around 3,500 lbs cargo capacity.

Edit: after reading Alpo's response adding the following:

Installed by dealer: 190w solar panel and anti-sway hitch.

 

When you go looking at trailers use a critical eye.  I found saw dust on beds, towel hangers pulled out of one hole and re-hung next to that hole, trim pieces falling off.  And those were new trailers. 

Ensure that your tow vehicle is more than capable of towing what you select. 

 

Good luck, 

Barry Sloe 

 

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Hmmmm....

Started witg one we could afford.

23ft tounge pull with slide.

12 years we used it, but no storage space or room to stretch out.

Had bed in end, had to climb in and out.

Went to a 5th wheel.

Open floor plan.

2 of us, comfortable, plenty of storage...

Outdoor gennies...

This we use for 1 week or over stays. Just stayed 22 days in dry camp for EOT.

Also have small 20' tounge pull again, couch slides. Roomy enough, but only use for weekends (or hunting)

 

Sooooo...

I would look for openess...can you walk around in it at the same time with no issue?

Being able to walk around a bed is a luxery.

Storage is important.

You BOTH have to enjoy it.

(Some RV sales will allow you to stay in their 'hook up' area to try out a used RV you are looking at for a night or two.)

There are lightweight rigs that have plenty of room, but not 4 season.

 

Must have anti-sway/ equalizer bar package with ANY tounge pull.

5th wheel you want a 5th wheel package. Using a Gooseneck hitch can cause undue pressure and damage your 5th.

 

Good luck!!!

 

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Layout….If you look at Toy Haulers they  come with very flexible garage bay layouts.  You could set up a reloading bench in there….They also typically come with generators and things like a fuel pump/tank to fill up vehicles.  Maybe you load a golf cart or lots of room for gun carts etc.  Toy haulers can also drop the ramp door level with the rear and have fences for a fenced “patio” extension which can be great for dogs.  

 

Length and weight…vehicle to control and stop it at loaded weight.

 

If you are dry camping, fresh water capacity. 
 


 

 

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20220220_191900.jpg

 

  .......Miss Sue, ... Miss Sue, ..... there's a strange man sittin' in your back chair ..:o........ 

 

 

  ......... but don't worry, it looks like your loungedog is keeping an eye on him ........   :rolleyes:

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ORR - first off besides $$ you’re limiting factor will be the tow vehicle.  If you’ve got a ½ ton truck forget 5th wheels, so know how much you can safely tow, I wouldn’t recommend going to the max tow weight.  I’d also suggest for any bumper pull trailer to plan on getting an anti-sway/weight distribution hitch, it cuts down on white knuckle driving.  Once you know how much you can tow then it’s a matter of finding what works for you.  Since it’s 2 adults an a dog space will be important, would be surprised how quickly you run out of it.  If you want this to be your first and last purchase I’d suggest renting a couple different size campers before you buy, because you don’t know what you don’t know, renting will let you see what works for you and what doesn’t, most people will go through 2-3 before they find what suits them.  Are you going to be camping mostly in hot or cold weather?  That matters for how many A/C units you may want, and the number of A/C’s determines your power requirements.  One A/C will be a 30 amp connection, two or more will require 50 amps, and as you can guess that will determine how big of a generator you’ll need.  Generally speaking a built in generator is easier since it’s sized for the trailer, the electric hook up is done so it’s seamless when you go on generator power and the fuel supply is built in (it’ll run on propane).  Whether you’re camping in summer or winter insulation is important R/V’s are more car like than house like when it comes to temperature changes so a well insulated unit help.  For construction travel trailers will generally be either fiberglass or aluminum, both have advantages and disadvantages, I personally prefer a gel coat finish YMMV.  Lastly is floor plan, keep in mind that anything behind the rear axle will bounce more than on top or in front of the axles, think of it like a spring board.  I had a 5th wheel that had the living room well behind the axle, one trip (going down I-40) the road was so rough that the couch had come apart, I was able to fix it, but it shows how much movement there can be. 

 

The above is based on my experience, I’ve owned 3 5th wheels, 2 motor homes and 1 travel trailer, I still have a motor home and the travel trailer.

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+1 to @Tequila Shooter, please read what he posted again.

 

If you've never had a TT/5th wheel/camper, there's a whole lot more to consider than just size and options of the camper.  Size matters, but so do other things.

 

DO NOT go to a dealer and ask for advice!  Once they get your money, you're on your own.

 

Be prepared to handle recalls/repairs on your own.

 

Build quality across the board generally sucks on most everything being mass produced.  Especially with these, you really do get what you pay for.

 

The vast majority of the TTs on the market today have cheap wood "frames" and/or supports (and not even 2x4s).  The "paneling" is less than 1/4" (maybe an 1/8"?).  Generally, there is very little insulation or very inefficient insulation.

 

There are different types of slides available.  They all have there own pros/cons.

 

Do you already have a tow vehicle?  What does the sticker inside the door say is your cargo capacity?  That number is how much weight you can put in the vehicle, including the tongue weight of the TT.  If you plan on taking a generator, case(s) of water, camp chairs, fire pits, etc - all of that is going to add up take up cargo capacity.

 

Most TTs tongue weight will be 10-15% of the TTs weight.  Some single axle TTs, the tongue weight will be closer to 20% depending on design.  The dry tongue weight listed on websites and even on the TT is usually on the light side.  Once you determine your cargo capacity, you can look at the TTs overall weight.  Most people exceed the cargo capacity before they reach the tow capacity.

 

The trailer will also have a cargo capacity.  Look at what's posted on the label.  Some trailers have VERY LOW cargo capacity.

 

We had a 26' bunkhouse bumper-pull TT for several years.  It was our first and over time we didn't enjoy it.  The bunk beds were space that we only used for storage when the kids got older and didn't want to go with us.  The layout didn't allow for two people to pass each other without rubbing.  It was heavy for our 1/2 ton pick up.  It was longer than what we needed/wanted.

 

We now have a Geo-Pro 19FBS.  It's far from perfect but it's better for just the two of us.  It seems to be very well insulated for the South MS weather we've been experiencing the last few months.  We've boondocked in it a couple times and the batteries managed to last through the night, though they are not the best and do need to be replaced with appropriate batteries for boondocking.  If you don't plan to boondock/dry-camp without a generator you shouldn't have to worry much about batteries.  It has a slide (which I didn't want) that really opens up the floor space.  It's short and light enough for our 1/2-ton truck to pull comfortably, but it is tongue heavy (potable water tank is forward of the single axle).  We been pulling it local ranges testing everything out and plan to pull it out West this summer for our first big trip.

 

Towing with a 4x4 Ford F-150 extended cab, short bed with 3.5 EcoBoost and heavy-duty payload package.  My truck has ~1900 pounds of payload capacity.  I have an ARE topper on it.  I am getting ~15 mpg (hand figured) with stock size BFG All-Terrain tires when unladen.  I am getting ~9 mpg when towing the TT.

 

I wanted a toy-hauler but couldn't find one that was suitable for our 1/2-ton truck that we liked.

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I would echo a lot of what has been said here.  There are a lot of variables in play here.  Your trailer type, size, load rating, layout, amenities, load distribution and personal preference.  I prefer the units that have an aluminum frame work with fiberglass panels.  I believe they are sturdier than the "stick and tin" trailers but there are still a lot of the old style stick and tin trailers our there.

 

I learned the hard way and I was lucky, don't discount your tow vehicle.  Get it sized right, oversize it if you can.  What the dealer will tell you and the owners manual will tell you that you can haul XXX pounds, take it with a grain of salt.  Sure you can but for how long and under what conditions.  Don't underestimate your tires.  The mistake I made was using light truck tires.  Even with a load stabilizer and trailer hitch sway brake, that trailer pushed my truck around terribly.  I was never so scared hauling that trailer.  I had to use the trailer brake controller in the cab to keep it straight.  Check the load rating on your tires.  Personally, I wouldn't use anything less than and E rating unless I was hauling a trailer that was less than 3000 pounds or 14 feet long.  Make sure you remember to use the trailering mode as well.  I forgot once and burned up a transmission.  That was ugly.

 

Good luck to you.

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:FlagAm: There are so many factors involved in a RV purchase.  We bought our one and only in 2009.  It is a 1998 Holiday Rambler, 32' tow behind.  We went with a tow behind due to needing the space in the pickup bed for stuff.  It has many items on the "required" list that met our needs.  An aluminum inner frame work is best.  A wooden inner frame can loosen in time and if you ever have a water leak, dry rot is common. 

The very first thing is for your to decide what the primary use will be.  If you are mostly going to "camp" where there is hook ups, the fresh water, grey and black water tank capacity is less critical than if you are mostly going to "dry" camp.  Our trailer has 110 gallon fresh water, two 40 gallon grey and one 40 gallon black tanks.  We have gone twelve days dry camping and not run out of water.  You do have to alter your habits however.  Turn on the shower head, wet down, shut off, soap up and then rinse.  Next person in so not to waste any water waiting for it to run hot again.

Same goes for electrical.  Do not skip on battery quality.  We run four 100 amp solar batteries.  If not already equipped, change every light bulb or light fixture to LED. Much less power usage, but remember if dry camping to shut off what is not being used or needed.  Our trailer did not have  gen set so I added one.  Aluminum tool box on the back, 4000W Onan out of a totaled motor home with a 15 gallon fuel cell rated for in the hull boat use.  I also have 345W of solar mounted on two adjustable tri-pods with 50' of cable.  I can place anywhere for most sun exposure.  

Another area to buy the best is tires.  Everything you own behind you is riding on them.  Due to the heat in the Phoenix area, I replace every four years, regardless of mileage.  Wheel bearings are equally important, but many times forgotten.  Industry standard is at 8,000-10,000 miles, clean, inspect and repack.  If buying a used unit, definitely do this.

As stated by another, the back of the trailer has the most whip/bounce as it is going down the road.  Shy away from a unit that has the kitchen in the back for obvious reasons.

Everyone talks about pulling capacity of tow vehicle, but stopping ability is even more important.  The trailer brakes are secondary to the tow vehicle and are typically marginal at best.  Make sure your tow vehicle has enough weight and brake capacity to stop the unit behind you.

Check out the condition of the roof.  Most units have what is called a membrane roof which needs to be treated every so many years and eventually will have to be replaced.  Another area that is often forgotten about.  Our unit has a full aluminum roof so no need except for yearly checking caulk joints.

Storage is another consideration.  Both interior and exterior places to put things is important but be mindful how quickly the weight adds up.

A living area slide out really opens up the interior.  Ours has the dining table and recliner sofa.  

We borrowed different units several times which gave us insight to what we liked and wanted.  If not, rent a few different ones.  Just like buying guns for this sport.  Buy once, buy what fits you the best and have fun.

Chas B

Since all controls for generator are 12V, I ran ten strand irrigation cable from it to the entertainment center.  On/off, hour meter and fuel level.

 

 

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NO.1 and most important as has been said.  It's not towing capacity its cargo capacity. a 1/2 ton truck will pull 20,000 lbs. Try going up a hill or stopping it.

Boondocking/Dry camping is about batteries, solar, and generator capacity, run time. And most importantly the capacity of your black tank. You can add water, and in some cases dump grey water. But the black tank drives time in place. Unless you dump into a portable tank and then take it to a dump station.

5th wheels pul significantly better that tow behinds.

Do not listen to the dealer about towing, extended warrantied, ceramic coating etc.

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Lots of advice here. 

 

Start with the tow vehicle......bigger is better. I have towed a 12,000 pound boat all over the US and Mexico, so I have a little experience. I have a 2011 Denali 28' bumper tow travel trailer that I bought new. I tow it with a 2015 Ford F350 (1 ton) single rear wheel, 4x4, crew cab, short bed diesel. Every truck I have had since 1984 has been diesel (all Fords). You will need a good equalizing hitch and 2 sway control stabilizers. 

 

Once that has been taken care of the trailer is next. I would want fiberglass exterior (instead of aluminum).  I also have the cold weather package for better insulation. You should get the biggest holding tanks you can find (50 gallon would be great). Get two spare tires. Slide outs are a must. Look at the awnings close. Mine is electric with a sensor that retracts the awning when i gets too windy. Also get awnings over your slide out, keeps leaves, snow, etc off of the so you don't have to sweep them off to retract them. Get the biggest axels and wheels you can get.

 

There is more, but most has already been covered.  

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9 hours ago, Wallaby Jack, SASS #44062 said:

20220220_191900.jpg

 

  .......Miss Sue, ... Miss Sue, ..... there's a strange man sittin' in your back chair ..:o........ 

 

 

  ......... but don't worry, it looks like your loungedog is keeping an eye on him ........   :rolleyes:

Hahahaha!!!

Y'all that have not met Shanley Shooter...here he is! And Daisy the watch dog!!!

Yup...we are very comfy in our 5th...traveled all over, pulls like a dream.

Bought used, and have never been rejected from a park by the over 10 yr rule. (Rig, not Shanley)

There are very good, older rigs out there...reasonable too.

I will tell ya, that by the time I signed the dotted line...price was 12k (rig, tow package and trade in)

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29 minutes ago, Chas B. Wolfson, SASS #11104 said:

If a tow behind, this is the best style of hitch to use.  I use one and it does effectively control sway.

71u4iSIkptL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 

 

Yes. This is what we have now.

Adjusted to fit your truck and trailer per height before leaving the RV sales.

Best as far as I can tell.

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Recently went to an RV show. There were three quality levels. JUNK, almost junk and one and only one high quality RV. Was very disappointed in the quality of RVs currently being marketed. You need to inspect them closely. Easy tells are to open wardrobe doors and watch to see how far the frame deflects before the catch releases. Some brands the divider flexed over an inch.  Next is to look at the drawers. Gently push on the bottom of the drawer and observe how much it gives. All drawers will have very thin bottom panels but the better RVs will have the panels braced so that they do not deflect very much. 

 

The only high quality RV at the show was a motorhome made by Renegade. It was easily 10 times the quality of any other travel trailer, 5th wheel or motor home at the show. 

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1) The tow vehicle- it needs to be able to start and stop and remain stable in tow between points A and B and have more than adequate mirrors.

2) The hitch- It needs to be solid and stabilize the load.

3) Tires- obvious, can make or break a trip.

4) Solid construction and weather tight.

 

Comfort and amenities are subjective. Deal breakers in these areas vary person to person.

 

1 and 2 preclude 3 and 4, but 3 and 4 can render 1 and 2 pointless.

 

 

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10 hours ago, Chas B. Wolfson, SASS #11104 said:

If a tow behind, this is the best style of hitch to use.  I use one and it does effectively control sway.

71u4iSIkptL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 

 

These are good but heavy - had one and stored it in an external storage container on the back of the trailer when not in use.  A lot of solid information.  Don't forget that you have to store it and if you don't have the room on your property - that's an additional cost. 

We started with a popup camper that my wife's folks had and gave to her.  Fine for good weather and short 2-3 stays.  We then purchased (used) a hybrid and towed it with a Tundra.  Worked well but in weather again not as comfortable whether cold or hot and if its windy not fun.   We then purchased (again used) roughly the same size but with a slide-out and solid walls.  This was the one with the above tow bar setup.  The Tundra could pull it as well and it served me fine for  ten day stays at EOT or WR.   Finally though I was only  using it once a year and the storage fees made it something that I just didn't need anymore.   The good news is since I bought them used, my depreciation was not significant.   

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For me, being a tad larger than most folks, a high enough ceiling to stand and walk around without whacking my head on something was a priority, as was a shower I can actually take a shower in. Today, I might go with a 5th wheel, but when I bought this one, I normally had a couple kayaks on top of the truck. But, with a bumper pull, it's also very nice to have all that extra dry storage under the topper too, so...

 

Then, four years ago, I came across the tiny 14' Jayco, which is perfect for overnight trips. Shower, toilet, closet, furnace, a/c, 3 way fridge, 2 burner stove, sink, water heater... I can't stand up in it, and I'd have to be pretty damn desperate to attempt taking a shower in it, but it's out of the weather and comfortable to sleep in.

 

The duration of the trip determines the trailer.

 

F350 Crew Cab

30' Crossroads Paradise Pointe

14' Jayco

 

ParadisePointe.jpg.e0d7d1ee62092beffc26c16b6631dad1.jpgJayco.thumb.jpg.ced52a58d92be3522b4e7d603e82dd4a.jpg

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The most important thing is the bathroom/toilet.  If you have a size 6 butt and a size 2 toilet with your face planted up against the door when seated it does not matter what else the RV has.  To go along with the toilet you need decent water capacity.  If your RV has a six gallon water tank you will have no fun after about two flushes.

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On 3/16/2022 at 10:11 AM, Chas B. Wolfson, SASS #11104 said:

:FlagAm: There are so many factors involved in a RV purchase.  We bought our one and only in 2009.  It is a 1998 Holiday Rambler, 32' tow behind.  We went with a tow behind due to needing the space in the pickup bed for stuff.  It has many items on the "required" list that met our needs.  An aluminum inner frame work is best.  A wooden inner frame can loosen in time and if you ever have a water leak, dry rot is common. 

The very first thing is for your to decide what the primary use will be.  If you are mostly going to "camp" where there is hook ups, the fresh water, grey and black water tank capacity is less critical than if you are mostly going to "dry" camp.  Our trailer has 110 gallon fresh water, two 40 gallon grey and one 40 gallon black tanks.  We have gone twelve days dry camping and not run out of water.  You do have to alter your habits however.  Turn on the shower head, wet down, shut off, soap up and then rinse.  Next person in so not to waste any water waiting for it to run hot again.

Same goes for electrical.  Do not skip on battery quality.  We run four 100 amp solar batteries.  If not already equipped, change every light bulb or light fixture to LED. Much less power usage, but remember if dry camping to shut off what is not being used or needed.  Our trailer did not have  gen set so I added one.  Aluminum tool box on the back, 4000W Onan out of a totaled motor home with a 15 gallon fuel cell rated for in the hull boat use.  I also have 345W of solar mounted on two adjustable tri-pods with 50' of cable.  I can place anywhere for most sun exposure.  

Another area to buy the best is tires.  Everything you own behind you is riding on them.  Due to the heat in the Phoenix area, I replace every four years, regardless of mileage.  Wheel bearings are equally important, but many times forgotten.  Industry standard is at 8,000-10,000 miles, clean, inspect and repack.  If buying a used unit, definitely do this.

As stated by another, the back of the trailer has the most whip/bounce as it is going down the road.  Shy away from a unit that has the kitchen in the back for obvious reasons.

Everyone talks about pulling capacity of tow vehicle, but stopping ability is even more important.  The trailer brakes are secondary to the tow vehicle and are typically marginal at best.  Make sure your tow vehicle has enough weight and brake capacity to stop the unit behind you.

Check out the condition of the roof.  Most units have what is called a membrane roof which needs to be treated every so many years and eventually will have to be replaced.  Another area that is often forgotten about.  Our unit has a full aluminum roof so no need except for yearly checking caulk joints.

Storage is another consideration.  Both interior and exterior places to put things is important but be mindful how quickly the weight adds up.

A living area slide out really opens up the interior.  Ours has the dining table and recliner sofa.  

We borrowed different units several times which gave us insight to what we liked and wanted.  If not, rent a few different ones.  Just like buying guns for this sport.  Buy once, buy what fits you the best and have fun.

Chas B

Since all controls for generator are 12V, I ran ten strand irrigation cable from it to the entertainment center.  On/off, hour meter and fuel level.

 

 

P1000659.JPG

P1000132.JPG

IMG_20220316_082633057_HDR.jpg

IMG_20220316_082741905_HDR.jpg

IMG_20220316_142915417.jpg


Where did you get your rear rack at?

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1 hour ago, Sedalia Dave said:


Where did you get your rear rack at?

:FlagAm: I made it.  Frame material 1.5"X3".  The inner piece on each side is welded along 27" of trailer frame and a triangular gusset at the end.  As that piece protrudes out of the skirting, it is welded also to the bottom of the rear bumper.  The rack just clears the center point of the trailer bumper by 1/4".  I used another full length piece of tubing on each side that has an OD = to the ID of the 1.5"X3" tubing.  That is slid into the outer tubing on the trailer and then the rack is slid onto the inner tubing.  Held in place with four hitch pins.   I can remove the two rear pins, one on each side, slide a forklift or bobcat under the rack and remove the entire generator from trailer.  I can place on a small Harbor Freight flat trailer and take the generator to a job site, etc.  Generator has it's own on/off switch and the one outside electrical box houses a 20amp outlet.  The other electrical box is the power outlet for the trailer.  That is why the electrical connections to trailer, controls and exterior lights are connected via old style six prong trailer plugs.  Also, if I ever sell the trailer, I can also pull the two forward hitch pins and remove the inner tubing.  I would only lose the tubing directly welded to the trailer.

This has been in place since 2010.  I also have three AC powered computer cooling fans mounted in the large bottom vent opening inside the generator side.  They are on a toggle switch.  In hot weather, I flip the toggle and when the generator runs, the fans draw air into the compartment.  I do not need to leave the lid open.  On the fuel tank side is the gel cell battery and a 2amp charger that charges when the generator runs.  I have also since pics taken added a 3amp solar panel mounted on the passenger side of box.  Maintains the gel cell when not in use.   Fuel tank is externally vented and the compartment is vented as well.

After borrowing several trailers that used a portable, pull the cord generator, I decided we would need a better solution for power.  The 3 watt light bulb came on inside my head and this is the solution I came up with.

Chas B

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IMG_20220317_095929581_HDR.jpg

IMG_20220317_095810136_HDR.jpg

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:FlagAm: The solar panels actually are two separate circuits.  The large center panel is on it's own MPPT controller wired into the two batteries in the original trailer location.

          The two outboard panels are together on their own MPPT controller wired into the pair of batteries I added.  The outboard panels are hinged and swing face to face with the large panel for storage.  Each system charges all four batteries.  If one system goes down for any reason, I still have solar capability.  Being mounted on trip-pods with fifty feet of cable, I can still park under a tree and also do not have to worry about such things as hail damage.

Chas B

IMG_20201002_113355822.jpg

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No matter what you find, be prepared to repair it. Bought our Forest River brand new with 23 things wrong with it! 3 years and still no properly working fridge! On the second one of some items, awning, bed, fridge etc. They come mostly with 12V only fridges now and they eat the batteries overnight. Add lots of solar or like me run your genny all day to make it thru the night. It is worth all the hassle I think though to stay on site. See ya soon.

 

Eyesa

 

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6 minutes ago, Eyesa Horg said:

No matter what you find, be prepared to repair it. Bought our Forest River brand new with 23 things wrong with it! 3 years and still no properly working fridge! On the second one of some items, awning, bed, fridge etc. They come mostly with 12V only fridges now and they eat the batteries overnight. Add lots of solar or like me run your genny all day to make it thru the night. It is worth all the hassle I think though to stay on site. See ya soon.

 

Eyesa

 

12v only refrigerators?? I know 3 way fridges are mostly gone, but I haven't heard of a newer RV fridge that wasn't propane/120v, let alone 12 volt only. 

RV's are built so fast (time is money, doncha know), they all have problems when new - some major, some minor. The slide on mine chewed up and ate the power cord in short order, and was replaced under warranty with a self coiling replacement. The a/c unit didn't work right either, and the entire a/c unit and its wiring harness were also replaced under warranty. One tail light lens had a broken mounting tab - also under warranty.

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We got our pull behind TT last year. We started by going to several large RV dealerships, not to buy, just to look at everything. Get a feel for what you like and what you don't, specially floor plans. What do you like and what don't you like about various models and accessories, settled on 3-4 model/floor plan/size travel trailers,. Spent the next month or so on the internet finding what is available at what prices and where. If they are close, go take a look. Finally settled on one that was a 10 hour drive away. This is common for RV buying, so don't settle for what is close, search to find what you want. Way more horror stories from "new" buyers than used, so recommend 1-3 yr old used campers. Quite a lot of "take over payments" or "payoff value" sellers. If you find one of these, they are usually the best deals, they just want to get rid of it to buy something different cuz they bought one that is too small or they are upgrading.

Palomino Puma 27' pulled by a F150 3.5 L eco.

Hope this helps.

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1 hour ago, Three Foot Johnson said:

12v only refrigerators?? I know 3 way fridges are mostly gone, but I haven't heard of a newer RV fridge that wasn't propane/120v, let alone 12 volt only. 

RV's are built so fast (time is money, doncha know), they all have problems when new - some major, some minor. The slide on mine chewed up and ate the power cord in short order, and was replaced under warranty with a self coiling replacement. The a/c unit didn't work right either, and the entire a/c unit and its wiring harness were also replaced under warranty. One tail light lens had a broken mounting tab - also under warranty.

Some units have household fridges only...so you need electric to run.

I chose a 10 year old model...and we have only replaced 3 things in 6 years...other than the floor supports (adding more) and wanted redo.

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22 minutes ago, Singin' Sue 71615 said:

Some units have household fridges only...so you need electric to run.

I chose a 10 year old model...and we have only replaced 3 things in 6 years...other than the floor supports (adding more) and wanted redo.

I can kind of understand that, especially in a larger unit, as you're much more likely to be "camping" somewhere with electrical service, and the unit runs on converter power while driving, but I've never heard of 12 volt only, other than those gimmicky portable coolers. 

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Yes, 12 V only. They draw 11A on start and 5 plus running. My first ran for 45min. off for 20 repeat. The second is a bit better and much quieter but has a bad thermostat that is no longer available. The unit isn't even a year old. Forest River could care less, they replaced the original just before warranty ran out on TT. Said I'm on my own now.

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54 minutes ago, Eyesa Horg said:

Yes, 12 V only. They draw 11A on start and 5 plus running. My first ran for 45min. off for 20 repeat. The second is a bit better and much quieter but has a bad thermostat that is no longer available. The unit isn't even a year old. Forest River could care less, they replaced the original just before warranty ran out on TT. Said I'm on my own now.

I did a little reading on the Forest River forums, and... I'll be dawged, 12 volt only refrigerators, unheard of only 3-4 years ago, are starting to be fairly common, at least with Forest River, with names like Nova Kool, Ever Kool, and Ever Chill. Some of the members seem to like 'em, some hate 'em, and some say, "There's no such thing as an RV 12v only refrigerator." :lol:

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Needs active solar installed to keep the Batts topped off. But I think the cherokee/graywolf use a 50 watt panel and it takes care of everything.

 

It's a true compressor fridge not absorption.

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