Marlin Buckhorn,SASS 51727 Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 If you have used teak oil for gun stock finishing would you use it again? Why or why not? Thanks for the input, Marlin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckshot Sheridan Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 It would work fine, and is actually a pretty decent finish. It actually has nothing to do with teak. It falls into the category of a wiping varnish similar to danish oil, Formby’s tungboil finish, and a number of other wood finishes. They are a mix of Linseed and/or Tung oil, mineral spirits, and a varnish of some type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe LaFives #5481 Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 Yes, Formby's brand on two Uberti 1873 rifles. I was quite happy with the results Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
"Big Boston" Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 I did try it but wasn't too pleased with the result. It does penetrate, but seems to evaporate. I want a good result without putting in silly effort. The best lazy method I found was a coat or several of tung oil. Normal sand with fine in between coats. When ready a quick thin coat of Tru-oil. About an 80 to 90% job with about half the work. During WWII, one thick coat of Tung and it was out of the armoury. Tung oil doesn't soften like linseed in the heat. Tru-oil is too spendy to use for the whole job, and it doesn't soak in as well. Perfect for a top coat. Oil soaked stock, acetone. Acetone is a good solvent, sucks the goo out of the wood. Again, down and dirty prep. Also dries out the wood so glue can do it's job. BB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ol Number4 Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 Big Boston, You hit the practice I have used for over 50 years of stock work. The Tru-Oil top coat does seal and protect better than Tung or Teak oil. The Tung and, better yet, Teak oil is best for soaking the wood. Your mileage and finish may vary!! Ol' #4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Mak Jack, SASS #55905 Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 Formbys is the way to go. You won’t be disapponted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bear Claw Brian Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 I’ve done a lot of teak oil work on my saltwater spearguns. Works well in the ocean. For firearms and knife handles I prefer Tru-Oil. Start with the liquid from the bottle, let dry, then hit it with a light 1000 grit sandpaper scuff, then finish with spray can Tru-Oil. Nice, smooth, and durable finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nostrum Damus SASS #110702 Posted January 26, 2022 Share Posted January 26, 2022 Wait wait wait ... Tru-Oil is "too spendy"? $7 for a 3 oz bottle that will last for dozens of stock finishing projects is "too spendy"? Look at the stock refinishing job I did in the thread Each coat used just a few drops of Tru-Oil applied with a finger. Big Boston, you must be using it wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 Stumbled on this looking for something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckshot Sheridan Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 That guy has a lot of good videos on finishing, and can link to a bunch of other options. Most of the sold as special gunstock finishes are just variations on oil varnish or wiping varnishes. Just put in a smaller container and crank up the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nostrum Damus SASS #110702 Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 9 minutes ago, Buckshot Sheridan said: That guy has a lot of good videos on finishing, and can link to a bunch of other options. Most of the sold as special gunstock finishes are just variations on oil varnish or wiping varnishes. Just put in a smaller container and crank up the price. Yup. Tru-Oil is cheap and "tried and tru" so to speak. I guess folks don't want to use it because ... I don't know, it takes time, care, effort, multiple coats, with different types of sanding and buffing between coats? It definitely isn't a quick fix for an ugly stock, but you can get anything from a durable natural looking finish to a mirror-like high-gloss finish with it -- it just depends on what you're after, and how much time and effort you want to devote to the project. Lots of good YouTubes on how to use it. This is one of my favorites: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 59 minutes ago, Nostrum Damus SASS #110702 said: Yup. Tru-Oil is cheap and "tried and tru" so to speak. I guess folks don't want to use it because ... I don't know, it takes time, care, effort, multiple coats, with different types of sanding and buffing between coats? It definitely isn't a quick fix for an ugly stock, but you can get anything from a durable natural looking finish to a mirror-like high-gloss finish with it -- it just depends on what you're after, and how much time and effort you want to devote to the project. Lots of good YouTubes on how to use it. This is one of my favorites: I used it on a replacement butt-stock for a Stevens 311. Took be about a month and a half to get the job done because of all the time it spent inbetween coats while they dried. The time was worth it though, as the finish came out looking very very nice. finish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nostrum Damus SASS #110702 Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 11 hours ago, Sedalia Dave said: I used it on a replacement butt-stock for a Stevens 311. Took be about a month and a half to get the job done because of all the time it spent inbetween coats while they dried. The time was worth it though, as the finish came out looking very very nice. finish When I was young and would nag my mother about when dinner would be served, she would say "do you want it fast, or do you want it good -- you can't have it both ways." Same applies to stock refinishing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Sage, SASS #49891 Life Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 Different wood finishes are usually formulated for the type of wood it is applied to. Teak wood is very oily. That is why it is used on boats, it resists water penetration. The teak oil finish that is used to refinish teak has a lot of spirits in it so it can be thinned out so it will penetrate the oily wood. I would not be my first choice for refinishing a stock. Several of the products (like Tru-Oil) work quite well. I have used it on several hundred stocks over the last 50 years or so. (I used to be a stock maker and did lots of repairs and refinishes). Remember to wait between coats to let it thoroughly dry before applying the next coat. If you don't like the gloss finish and want a satin look, there are ways to achieve it. Use automotive rubbing compound, it will do the job nicely. I also use light mineral oil and powdered pumice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Palmetto Traveller Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 Just completed refinishing a Belgium A5 and used 6 coats of Tru Oil on what was questionable wood. Came out very well. Will definitely use this technique again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eyesa Horg Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 Re-did my Stoeger stock with Tru-oil. Came out very well. Used Amour-All between coats as suggested on the Rimfire forum. About 10 coats of hand rubbed in under 15 minutes. Each coat hardens amazingly fast with a light coat of Amour-All before applying the Tru-Oil coat. If the oil goes on a little heavy and wrinkles, just sand it out and go again. I sanded all the lame Stoeger checkering off first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marlin Buckhorn,SASS 51727 Posted January 30, 2022 Author Share Posted January 30, 2022 Thanks for all the reply's. Stock is sanded now I just have to put the finish on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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