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Cap -n- Ball Revolvers


Slapshot

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The National Muzzle Loading Rifle Association wrote an article, several years ago, and stated to clean the bore of your black powder firearm, use the plain old blue windshield washer fluid. 

Dip a patch, in the fluid, and run it though the barrel.

Then dip a reversable wire bronze brush, in the fluid, and pass it though the barrel a few times.

Then repeat the patch, dipped in the fluid.

Then run a dry patch though the bore.

Then soak a patch in Rand CLP, and pass that though the bore a few times. 

 

My model 1892 Rossi, that I purchased in the late 1980's, is cleaned using the N.M.L.R.A. recommendation. The bore is mirror bright. 

No mixing anything, just the blue windshield washer fluid, and some patches, and a bronze reversable wire brush. 

 

But...there are lots of ways to clean. Lots of folks have their own method that works for them, and they have confidence in them.

Some are quick, and fairly easy, some are more involved. 

Be sure to remove the cones (nipples), when you clean the cylinder. 

You don't have to take the firearm completely apart, every time you clean it. 

 

First time I ever shot a cap & ball revolver, I was hooked. That was 1964. The black-powder firearms, we have available today, (when there isn't a covid shortage, that is) are so much better made, than the early ones. Better, deeper rifling, for one thing. Better machining. Back then, we did not know about not using petroleum based lubes, and oils. It was a difficult job to clean a black powder firearm, for us, because of that. Petroleum based lubes, and oils, do not work well with blackpowder. 

 

W.K.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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APP cleaning: hot soapy water, dry and lube with a black powder compatible oil.  Note: wash your brass cartridges soon after firing with APP or expect them to develop a dark brown tarnish.  

 

Real Black Powder Cleaning:  I use Wal*Mart multi-surface spray cleaner with vinegar when traveling.  At home spray with the same then wash in hot soapy water, dry and lube with a black powder compatible oil.

image.png.4c73405b96b93d5ae083c10f006d2914.png

 

Duelist1954 has videos on his cleaning method.

 

I recommend treating the nipple threads with anti-seize compound before your first firing.

 

When competing I recommend a TO who understands cap and ball revolvers.  Some inexperienced TOs will call cap-only ignition as a squib.  I also had an unloading table officer give me a MDQ for failing to empty the brass from my revolvers before leaving the table.  A knowledgeable posse marshall overrode him.

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I use boiling hot water to clean most all my guns, C&B and cartage.  Most of the time I shoot black in everything even 1911's.  I use Bore Butter, SPG, or Mobel 1 for lube.  I like boiling water as it heats the gun up enough to get Bore butter and SPG to flow.  I never have to spray my guns down in a 6 stage match.  I can shoot 12 stages and not have a gun become hard to turn.  The Iron Duke uses windex with vinegar.

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What about the brass framed CB revolvers. I understand they are not as strong as steel and can stretch with heavy loads. That being the case are they worth getting and what type loads would one use for the .36 and .44 to not damage them?

 

The ones posted in this thread are sharp looking.

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4 minutes ago, Slapshot said:

What about the brass framed CB revolvers. I understand they are not as strong as steel and can stretch with heavy loads. That being the case are they worth getting and what type loads would one use for the .36 and .44 to not damage them?

 

The ones posted in this thread are sharp looking.

 

I've shot these a lot and so far, knock on wood, they show no signs of a stress problems.  I'm loading a little less than 30g of FFG and round ball. 

 

1062729038_51NavyConfederate44sAug2019.jpg.3a4e213a7b6bee5986265a6b94821a49.jpg

 

I tried BlackMZ and found it was substantially more powerful.  I wouldn't mount conversion cylinders and shoot smokeless loads. 

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Yeah I remember seeing warnings on the conversion cylinders about only using them with steel frames.

 

The brass frames are close to $100 dollars cheaper so was thinking of one for a test run to see how I liked them. Its good to hear that yours have held up good. 

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brass will compress and work harden over time, the Remmy and Spiller and burr guns have wide flat surfaces to take the cylinder hammering, and big barrel threads that must be pulled out if that's going to stretch.  The colts recoil the ratchet teeth into the frame and these can dent and take a set easier than on the remmies, also, the arbor pin has smaller threads that are easier to pull and stretch.  Most Guns of 36 and larger caliber were never made in brass, so if you want something historically correct a Spiller and Burr is a good choice, the 51 navy clones would be a second choice.  Spiller and burr also seems to have a slightly lower chamber capacity and this probably helps keep the powder charges low enough to ensure a long life on the gun.  

 

I like Brass guns, the brass is beautiful and will patina instead of rust when exposed to the BP salts after firing if not cleaned thoroughly.  

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Well, the ratchet teeth are inside the recoil ring so, it's not the ratchet teeth imprinting in the ring, it's the "in between the nipples" that imprints the ring. That happens when the cylinder has the clearance to do so.  Anything greater than .003" barrel/ cylinder clearance is asking for trouble. I've had brass framed Revolvers (in a blind test) shoot "regular" loads  with no problems.  

 

Mike

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I love them all but if i had to pick a favorite, it would be the remington... i have 13 58's... my main match guns are 58's converted with gated kirst conversions (seen in my avatar)

 

for BP i use 777 hornady round balls .454, traditions wads, remington caps

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