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1873 lifter position


Cockney Rebel

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1 hour ago, Cockney Rebel said:

I think I am going to go with the Slix Shot wrench which also takes standard 1/4" bits, giving me a bit more leverage if/when I need it.  Plus it has a wrench for Stoeger firing pins, which could be useful as I have a Stoeger coach gun.

If you use one of these knurled brass magazine tube caps you don’t need a tool. Finger tight is all you need. 

7D4488CC-0FF1-4DC3-9737-46E08FE57B1E.jpeg

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2 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

For a Uberti factory mag plug - A large flat bladed screwdriver thinned to fit the slot tightly will work.  IF you know how to use a gunsmith screwdriver correctly, with a LOT of pressure applied axially into the bit to keep it from wallowing out the slot.

 

Brownells sells a flat tip (1/4" bit) that works fine.   MagnaTip Part 340-6.

Several parts vendors have different "slot wrenches" for that.  

Most cowboy shooters have one you can borrow this time.

 

Uberti often leaves the inside of the mag and mag cap unprotected, and they rust a bit.   Screw cap will be tight upon the first removal.  Then scrub mag tube with 20 gauge shotgun brush until clean.   Clean spring.  Clean cap threads.  Apply anti-seize lube or in a pinch, wheel bearing grease to the threads.  Use a spray lube that dries to touch for the mag tube and spring.   Eezox or Boeshield T-9 are a couple that work well.

 

A complete set of Brownell's MagnaTip bits to fit that 1873 rifle would be:

180-4
210-3
240-3
240-4
340-4
340-6

 

If you haven't yet removed many of the screws in the 1873, you will find many are over-torqued at factory.  A hand impact driver ( 1/4" bit) is the safest way to get the screws loosened.

 

Like: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W2503-Impact-Extractor/dp/B00MXFFPVY

 

good luck, GJ

I am assuming that since this rifle is dated 1977, the screws have been off before.  We will see if my assumption is correct.

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It sometimes is amazing when one finds that a 40 year old rifle has not had a complete tear-down. but I find it is true sometimes nonetheless, especially with cowboy guns.

good luck, GJ

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14 minutes ago, Cockney Rebel said:

mag tube screw

 

If that's the mag tube cap, it's a great thing to see, means you may get it off without any special tools.

 

good luck, GJ

 

 

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Gun directions will be important to understand in the following directions.  Directions on repairs are always correctly given with the gun held in shooting position.    So sights are "up", lever "down", loading gate to "right" side of gun.    Muzzle is "forward" and butt stock is "rearward".

 

OK, your picture is of the bevel on the right side of the frame to allow cartridges to be shoved into the loading gate.  That is the opposite side which now needs to be beveled.  Don't file on the right side.  Unless you want to polish that bevel which looks kinda rough.

 

To fix the loading-gate mortise, I always bevel all the way across the top and left side of the loading gate opening.   I'd take those sharp edges off the frame opening, so that you leave the back surface of the frame intact, but bevel at about a 30 degree angle into the lifter channel.   This gives the cartridge rim a little bit of room to slide over to lie straight in lifter block (rim slides to the left from where it sits when crooked in your gun currently).  If the cartridge will not ALWAYS sit straight in the carrier, it WILL hang up as you try to lift it up from the bottom of the frame.  The bevel does not have to go all the way out to the outer surface of the frame.  All you need is a "smooth path" for the cartridge to be able to slide upwards as the action operates.  

 

good luck, GJ

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OK, here's a couple of pictures of a finished bevel that works well on all guns I've put it on.

 

Note the top bevel does not have to go up to the bolt opening in the frame.  Just a small 30 degree bevel to let rim of case slide upwards.  This is the most important bevel to stop the jams.

 

The left bevel is added because it makes the case lie straight in the carrier when carrier is fully down.  This is a 15-20  degree (pretty shallow) bevel.  The bevel does not get all the way to the rear surface of the existing left side.  Don't knife edge it or cut into the rearward surface, that would give a spot where the rim would catch.

 

Match your gun up with these pictures and look closely at pics and your own gun.  As in most gun work, you need to clearly visualize what you will do BEFORE you select the tool you will work with and the movements you make with the tool before you EVER start to cut on metal. 

 

And, although a Dremel might be faster, you really are not removing a lot of metal.  Resist the urge to think you can hold a rotary cutter firmly enough to do this precision work without having done this a few hundred times.

 

A finishing stoning or polishing on the bevels will make things really smooth, if you have a small stone or cratex (abrasive polishing) tip.

 

good luck, GJ

 

 

mortise bevels.jpg

mortise left bevel.jpg

mortise top bevel.jpg

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