Pee Wee #15785 Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 I am talking to the wife about sending a JM Marlin with under 50 rounds through it to a good gunsmith. What would you ask for the gunsmith to do keeping stock parts as much as he can? I want to use it as a deer rifle along with SASS. What would you have to pay for a good action job? If you had a smith work on your gun, without naming the smith would you tell me what it cost? I need a good high and low price as she is an accountant. After getting the rifle, as I shoot .44-40, getting it slicked up I have to have numbers as to the cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Bill Burt Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 16 minutes ago, Pee Wee #15785 said: I am talking to the wife about sending a JM Marlin with under 50 rounds through it to a good gunsmith. What would you ask for the gunsmith to do keeping stock parts as much as he can? I want to use it as a deer rifle along with SASS. What would you have to pay for a good action job? If you had a smith work on your gun, without naming the smith would you tell me what it cost? I need a good high and low price as she is an accountant. After getting the rifle, as I shoot .44-40, getting it slicked up I have to have numbers as to the cost. $800, plus the cost of the gun, for an 1873. I suspect a Marlin would be considerably less expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Widder, SASS #59054 Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 Normal slicking up a Marlin 1894 should be around $150, give or take. Turning one into a VERY reliable and slick 1894, might run $200, plus parts and return shipping. Any trigger work you want might run $35 more. ..........Widder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazy Eeyour Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 Just shoot it. It will wear smooth after a few hundred rounds. I use a small O'ring over the safety, that I install with circlip pliers. If hunting I cut the O'ring to use the safety. If the gun runs rough I sub out ejectors as that has been the only problem I've had when new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 You'll be amazed what a bit lighter hammer spring does to smooth that Marlin out OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crisco Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 Look at Cody Conagher’s website ( Http://www.codyscowboyshop.com/). He has done a couple of ‘73’s for us and does great work with a fast turnaround. His price on a Marlin action job looks more than reasonable, and I am sure he would consider what you plan to use it for when he does the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snakebite Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 If you are happy with the stock throw of the gun and it doesn't need any repair, then it might be a project that you would enjoy doing yourself. IMO the Marlin 94 is a much easier gun to work on than the 73. The big gains in a Marlin come up front with some simple polishing and spring replacements. It's that last little bit that takes some "fine" tuning that you need a Guru for. You might be happy with what you can do yourself. Just a thought. Snakebite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Widder, SASS #59054 Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 1 hour ago, Snakebite said: If you are happy with the stock throw of the gun and it doesn't need any repair, then it might be a project that you would enjoy doing yourself. IMO the Marlin 94 is a much easier gun to work on than the 73. The big gains in a Marlin come up front with some simple polishing and spring replacements. It's that last little bit that takes some "fine" tuning that you need a Guru for. You might be happy with what you can do yourself. Just a thought. Snakebite YEP. ^^^ Check out Marauders website. Lots of info on tuning various Cowboy guns, especially the Marlin 1894. ..........Widder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pee Wee #15785 Posted November 29, 2021 Author Share Posted November 29, 2021 Would you ask for a fix on the Marlin Jam while the smith had it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snakebite Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 23 minutes ago, Pee Wee #15785 said: Would you ask for a fix on the Marlin Jam while the smith had it? If you are getting the "Jamb", then you need some other work. IMO most folks would not want to tackle the fix. I always used a Hack saw blade, but I'm sure that there are others with much more experience than me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pee Wee #15785 Posted November 29, 2021 Author Share Posted November 29, 2021 no jam, new old stock, only 50 rounds through it. Just asking before putting 100,000 rounds through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Widder, SASS #59054 Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 Pee Wee, The info I'm about to share is from my experience only concerning the JAM. What is well known as the 'Marlin Jam' is a situation where: 1. The timing ramp on the bottom of the carrier has worn a few .000 2. The timing ramp on the bottom of the carrier came from the factory a little shorter or mis-angled. 3. The ammo being fed thru the rifle is shorter than the timing ramp has been tuned. 4. I never recommend bending the carrier upwards. This can cause your carrier tongue to rise to high during cycling and allow rounds from the portal to shoot UNDER the carrier. This is as bad as the JAM. I agree with Snakebite in that you need to let someone who KNOWS about Marlin timing, especially in relationship to your cartridge OAL, set up your timing. Slow timing works better with longer OAL ammo. Faster timing is a must for shorter OAL ammo. Welding a piece of saw blade works very good and can be done locally. A good hard TIG weld properly set will work great, but will wear a little with usage. Sending the carrier to Gunner Gatlin in Michigan is my preferred method to 'permanently' set the timing ramp on the carrier. Gunner inserts a piece of carbide steel in the ramp and it takes a diamond file if you ever try to reshape it. If you are shooting a normal 'short OAL' ammo (such as a .38 special at around 1.40 OAL), ask Gunner to give you about .005 LIFT in your carrier timing. If you are using 1.50+ ammo, such as in most .357 stuff, you may never need any height increase in the timing ramp. If I can help with information in any way, please call me at: 865 / 696-1996. Understanding the Marlin timing helped me create the C45S and .45 Colt ammo feed interchangeably in the .45 Colt Marlin. P.S. - I've handled BRAND NEW 1894's that wouldn't feed anything because the timing was so bad from the factory. AND... I've handled OLD 1894's with a few thousand rounds thru them and their timing was still in great shape. ..........Widder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazy Eeyour Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 2 hours ago, Pee Wee #15785 said: Would you ask for a fix on the Marlin Jam while the smith had it? If the gun is new you could ask to have the sharp point on the lever rounded. See http://marauder.homestead.com/files/Marlin94Fix.html See cure for new guns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pee Wee #15785 Posted December 2, 2021 Author Share Posted December 2, 2021 thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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