cap and ball nipple set up

[Make do]

A little while ago there was some talk about setting up the hammer so it just missed the top of the cone. So I checked my cap and ball pistols. I took out the lock work and only left the the hammer and cylinder in. Moving the cylinder back and forth over the the nipple I felt a heavy drag and little movement( compared to the nipple being removed so I went to work on the nipple (turns out it was bent a little) and took it down until I could just barely feel a drag on the hammer. Tested it with a cap and it worked fine. So I went ahead and did the other nipples. But I got to thinking - is that the way to go or should I work on the hammer. My mind says work on the easily replaced part (nipples verses hammer replacement). The bent nipple was the correct Slixshot nipples for it but I went ahead and ordered from track of the wolf a nipple set with a shorter cone. Should I just get a new set of Slixshot nipples and adjust the hammer or keep adjusting the nipples?

[Colorado Coffinmaker]

 

I think I know what you are trying to do.  However, there are two schools of thought.  Properly set up, the hammer face will contact the nipple.  This insures positive ignition.

 

The other school of thought is to have the hammer not contact the nipple.  That idea is primarily of those who wish to dry fire Cap Guns.  DO NOT dry fire Cap Guns.  When there is no contact with the nipple, you flirt with "fail to fire."

 

During operation, the hand pushes the cylinder against the barrel breach.  At that point the hammer face SHOULD just touch the the nipple.  The Cap provides the Cushion.  Replace the nipples if you have cut them down and leave the hammer alone except to polish the face and de-burr the safety slot and bottom of the hammer face.

[Kid Rich]

OP that makes my head hurt.

kR