Looking For Help - Marlin 39 Century Ltd .22 - Lever/Cocking Cycle

[Ozark Okie]

I recently bought a Marlin 39 Century Ltd .22; its a great handling little rifle but something isn't right in the cycling/cocking process. When you operate the lever, it is very hard to get the bolt moving rearward; much easier after it reaches the half cock position. It appears that the rear of the firing pin (a straight up vertical surface) is the "pusher" against the vertical surface of the hammer. Those two vertical surfaces do not make for a smooth start to the cocking action.  Sort of hard to envision if you are not familiar with the gun, hope the pictures help. 

 

The outside view picture shows the rear of the firing pin pushing against the hammer face This doesn't seem right to me......cocking the hammer with the firing pin?  

 

The inside view picture shows (after takedown) the hammer and trigger just before engaging the half cock notch ..approximately the same position shown from the outside in the other picture.   

 

Don't know if this is pertinent to the problem, but notice that the rear of the trigger is actually rubbing on the lever. Is something bent here.....wrong trigger, wrong hammer,  ??

 

Looking for advice, suggestions. Thank you, I will appreciate any feedback. 

 

 

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

Looks to me, the back of trigger is rubbing the lever.

OLG 

[Widder, SASS #59054]

27 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Looks to me, the back of trigger is rubbing the lever.

OLG 

 

AND...the hammer is rubbing the tang area where its suppose to recess into.

 

Your biggest culprit is probably the hammer spring itself.   

I would have to actually look at the bolt/firing pin set up to make any suggestion about those.

 

..........Widder

[Warden Callaway]

Maybe a drop of Mobile 1 on the lever spade where it rides over the carrier cam?

[Snake-eye, SASS#45097]

My friend had a similar problem. After taking it apart, I noticed that the screw that holds the lever in place was not tightened down completely and that may have been the problems he experienced. Also the lever rides in a slot in the bolt which is next to the firing pin. Check the firing pin to see if it’s damaged to make sure it moves freely in its slot and doesn’t rub against the lever which is right next to it during the levering operation.

[Ozark Okie]

Gentlemen, I appreciate all the feedback.

OLG, you are right the back of the trigger was rubbing the lever. It didn't feel right, but I ground it down making the trigger thinner....figured not much to lose. Widder, I polished the hammer sides and the tang slot the hammer rides in. You can probably see from the picture of the insides, there is quite a bit of wear in there. I don't have any Mobil one, Warden, but did give the lever and carrier a couple of small dabs of white lithium grease.

Finally Snake Eyes, I too found the lever mounting screw to be loose....even when tightened, its very loose on the mounting stud/screw. I did read somewhere - maybe the Marlin Forum - that is doesn't fit tightly, supposed to be loose....tho mine may be on the sloppy side. 

I polished the insides pretty well and as I said, took some metal off the back of the trigger. Its now a lot better that before, but I think more can be done. 

I still cant get over the fact that the rear of the firing pin is what pushes the hammer back...just doesn't seem right. Also, with the gun apart, I tried to hold the bolt in place to see how the lever end (is that the spade?) fits into the bolt and firing pin "notch"....pretty inconclusive. I'll keep pecking away at it. 

Thank you again. 

[Nate Kiowa Jones #6765]

That lever is bent in the trigger guard area. That's why it is rubbing the back of the trigger. Bent like that, the bolt doesn't go into full battery either.

[Warden Callaway]

10 minutes ago, Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 said:

That lever is bent in the trigger guard area. That's why it is rubbing the back of the trigger. Bent like that, the bolt doesn't go into full battery either.

 

Bingo!  I see it now.

[Goody, SASS #26190]

1 hour ago, Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 said:

That lever is bent in the trigger guard area. That's why it is rubbing the back of the trigger. Bent like that, the bolt doesn't go into full battery either.

How in the world did that happen. I mean I can understand when we get an out of battery on one of our center fires. But a 22 doesn't have enough horsepower to bend the lever, does it? I thinking someone dropped that thing hard. Or re-assembled it wrong and tried to force it closed? Be a bear to find a replacement unless Ruger is up and going. I don't think Remington made any. Reckon it could be heated, carefully, and bent back to proper. Would need an undamaged one to see where and how much to bend.

[Warden Callaway]

54 minutes ago, Goody, SASS #26190 said:

How in the world did that happen. I mean I can understand when we get an out of battery on one of our center fires. But a 22 doesn't have enough horsepower to bend the lever, does it? I thinking someone dropped that thing hard. Or re-assembled it wrong and tried to force it closed? Be a bear to find a replacement unless Ruger is up and going. I don't think Remington made any. Reckon it could be heated, carefully, and bent back to proper. Would need an undamaged one to see where and how much to bend.

 

They bend easily by just trying to make a jammed one cycle.   I've had several I've had to adjust a little or a lot.  

[Goody, SASS #26190]

5 minutes ago, Warden Callaway said:

 

They bend easily by just trying to make a jammed one cycle.   I've had several I've had to adjust a little or a lot.  

L I B

[Ozark Okie]

 Nate, Warden, Goody - you guys are right, The lever is bent in the trigger guard area. Hard to imagine how...fell, dropped, run over, who knows??

I'm afraid to try and rebend it...wouldnt know exactly where to start or how to do it, and as Goody said, I would need a template. . I have shaved some off the back of the trigger to eliminate the interference and its cycling well. Probably just going to leave well enough alone...at least for now. Thanks for the feedback.

OO

[Warden Callaway]

I would loosely (just enough to hold it) clamp the forward end in a vice and put the back end on the bench.  Then I would use a clamp to apply pressure in the middle.  Watch for deflection.  When it moves, slack off and see if there is enough movement to try. Maybe draw an outline to measure progress.  Repeat as required. 

 

The problem with a replacement is, it probably won't work until fitted.  I've swapped out levers on a half-dozen guns and most won't work at all and few marginally. 

[Ozark Okie]

Warden, that method makes sense and I can see how I would do it. What I'm afraid is that by clamping/bending in the middle of the trigger guard area, while it would force an bigger opening and move the trigger guard away from the back of the trigger, it would also bend the level portion away from the stock....which would require another bend to bring it back in line.  

 

What would you think of trying to come up with a way to apply backward bending pressure at the lower front of the trigger guard area and push backward toward the buttstock  and parallel to the lower edge of the stock?  The idea would be to move the entire trigger guard and level grip back while keeping the lever parallel to the stock (as it is now).  Now sure how I would clamp that up to be able to apply the bending pressure in the correct direction. 

 

Thanks for sharing your ideas - appreciate your experience because I know you have done a bunch of them. 

 

OO 

 

[Warden Callaway]

Many times things I try is in the spirit of, "Hold my beer and watch this.".  

 

I see it as do it yourself or send the whole gun to someone to fix.  Just sending the lever probably wouldn't work as you would need to try it in the gun. 

[Ozark Okie]

I understand....and of course, you do learn from each of those experiences....adds up over time. 

I'm all in favor of doing it myself.....don't plan to send the gun off; hate to ship guns. I need to be a little more adventurous.  

Hold my beer, please!

And Thanks.

[Warden Callaway]

I'm trying to think of a way to just spread the trigger loop area.  The problem is, about everything is made to clamp stuff together - not spread things apart.  It's not going to take as much force as you think.

[Goody, SASS #26190]

A turnbuckle type arrangement. Like a hat jack.

[Ozark Okie]

Some type of turnbuckle as Goody says...sounds right. 

Another thought. Maybe some form of rod bender tool...homemade?.....that would fit around the front "leg" of the trigger guard. Use it to bend that front leg part of the trigger guard and force the entire trigger guard and lever backwards.

Interesting to think of ways....

[Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174742333607?hash=item28af7468a7:g:6GAAAOSw0mRggaUl

[Goody, SASS #26190]

1 hour ago, Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 said:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174742333607?hash=item28af7468a7:g:6GAAAOSw0mRggaUl

That's the way to go. $60 and no worries. You could even buy it, try it in the gun. If that fixed your problem then use it as a template and bend your original back. If that one worked then sell the one on Ebay again.

[Warden Callaway]

6 hours ago, Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 said:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174742333607?hash=item28af7468a7:g:6GAAAOSw0mRggaUl

 

That's a pistol grip lever.  Looks like he needs a straight grip lever.

 

Besides, the lever on the 39 also sets the headspace.  

 

 

[Goody, SASS #26190]

I would have sworn the Century Limited was a pistol grip. but you are correct.

[Rough 'N Ready Rob]

Something you might try. Put the gun back together every thing tight, holding the gun with the barrel down on a bock of soft wood, action open, lever sticking out rap it with a rawhide hammer or something similar, go easy. 

[Warden Callaway]

5 minutes ago, Rough 'N Ready Rob said:

Something you might try. Put the gun back together every thing tight, holding the gun with the barrel down on a bock of soft wood, action open, lever sticking out rap it with a rawhide hammer or something similar, go easy. 

 

The lever hinges on what's basically a screw with a TALL head - supposed on one side only by a couple of threads. Better to risk damage to the part that's already damaged. 

[Rough 'N Ready Rob]

Warden,

  You may be right, the bolt doesn't go through the lever like on a 94.

Rob

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

I've bent a couple of 73 levers back to shape.  Here's how that was done.

 

Firmly clamp the front of lever and first inch of the trigger guard section in a heavy and solidly secured  vise.   Upside down may work best for you for the downward bend you need to make in the lever.  Get the vise jaws on the flats of the lever and pull up on the finger loop section.  Now, the thinnest part of the trigger bow is usually where the bend happened, and the easiest place to re-bend back to original.   Find a heavy wall plastic pipe, maybe 3 or 4 feet long, that just fits over the finger loop.  If you need to, wrap the finger loop with heavy cloth (canvas) or even thin leather to make the loop big enough to fit in the pipe without much slop, so you have more control over the pressure you put on the lever.   Wedge a couple of wood strips into the pipe to keep the lever or pipe from twisting as you bend.   If  you have a metal pipe, you can forge the cross section of the pipe to be a thin oval and less padding/wedging  is needed.  Don't use a metal pipe without well padding the lever to prevent scratching it.

 

I bend the lever cold, in case it has a heat treat. Figure out about how much you need to bend it to make it original.  Comparison with another gun of same model is very good.   A replacement lever that would fit is ideal.  But a tracing of someone else's lever is almost as good and much cheaper.  

 

Bend about 2/3 of what you think is needed.  Test fit and see.  It really is amazing how closely and accurately you can bend steel parts  like the lever when you get the feel for what the steel takes to make a controlled bend.   Continue until it matches your pattern, and it should work well in the gun.  Don't put a twist between the lever action end and finger loop - that all has to remain on a flat plane to work well.  Check with a straight edge.

 

Good luck with yours.  GJ

[Warden Callaway]

I've never bent a 73 lever but I don't think it'll take that much to bend a 39 lever. 

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

 

4 hours ago, Warden Callaway said:

don't think it'll take that much

Bending is more accurate if you only have to put 40-60 pounds force on the loop end "pipe".   If you put all your weight or lift capability into a bending effort, you have less control and can easily go past your desired point.

 

good luck, GJ

[Warden Callaway]

Any updates? 

 

Inquiring minds, you know.

[Ozark Okie]

Hey Warden, good morning.

Good to hear from you. I'm being very cautious about bending the lever. The gun is cycling well now that I have shaved down the back of the trigger so it no longer rubs the trigger guard. You know the approach.....easier to replace a trigger than a lever.  Haven't had the opportunity to shoot much lately, but I did manage to run 10 rounds through it - cycled well, but had a couple of FTF. Suspect the ammo I was using (old cci bought on sale a couple of years ago.) but could be the hammer spring. Plan to try the ammo in my Henry, then if necessary add a washer to the 39 hammer strut....just hoping there is no problem with the bolt lock up. 

Thanks for asking. Are you working on any interesting projects now? 

[Warden Callaway]

6 minutes ago, Ozark Okie said:

Are you working on any interesting projects now? 

 

Not really.  Went on a trip out to Wyoming and now need to get some work done around the farm.  I'm going to fix a washed out crossing this morning before it comes the next cycle of storms.