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Adjusting shotgun’s point of impact?


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I have a new sporting clays gun and have been doing some pattern testing. 
 

One thing that’s obvious is that the patterns are all centered about 4” left, giving a 60/40 horizontal distribution of pellets. 
 

How do I go about fixing this?  Change the guns cast to more right?

A238B241-136C-4286-9529-8D4BCF9BBCAD.jpeg

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If the shotgun has shims to adjust the stock, ad a slight more cast off.  If it does not have shims, the stock can be steamed and bent, or you can sand some wood off where your cheek touches the stock.  Or   :rolleyes:   you can loose weight and get a thinner face, but that is probably not practicable.

 

Good Luck,

Duffield

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1 hour ago, Charlie Harley, #14153 said:

I have a new sporting clays gun and have been doing some pattern testing. 
 

One thing that’s obvious is that the patterns are all centered about 4” left, giving a 60/40 horizontal distribution of pellets. 
 

How do I go about fixing this?  Change the guns cast to more right?

A238B241-136C-4286-9529-8D4BCF9BBCAD.jpeg

 

Not that I know the answer, but adding what kind of gun it is might be helpful...

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1 hour ago, Duffield, SASS #23454 said:

If the shotgun has shims to adjust the stock, ad a slight more cast off.  If it does not have shims, the stock can be steamed and bent, or you can sand some wood off where your cheek touches the stock.  Or   :rolleyes:   you can loose weight and get a thinner face, but that is probably not practicable.

 

Good Luck,

Duffield

The thinner face is actually part of the equation. 

Two years ago I had C4 surgery that did not go well. I came out of the extended hospital stay 20 lbs lighter and with a neck that didn’t move as much and doesn’t tolerate recoil, plus a skinnier face with less padding. Hence, the 20 gauge semi-auto and having to relearn how to shoot shotgun. 
 

With a neck that can’t get my cheek down tight, I’m having to play with changing drop and cast with the shims that came with the Benelli. Looks like I’m going to have to make my own to go further. 

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Ignorant question here—

 

That looks like a very dense pattern.  Since you are trying to just break the targets rather than having to pulverize them, would using a more open choke help?

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4 minutes ago, Charlie Harley, #14153 said:

I have it shimmed all the way down and right already. I’m thing of going further. 

If you know of anyone with a 3D printer and the skills I’ve seen some pretty nice custom ones made .

I keep thinking I need to learn how to work one of those things 

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If you can, take 1 shim and sand the right side down a bout 1/16" leaving the left side original.

Give it a try and see if this does not pull the barrel to the right for you.

If it does but not enough, sand a second shim.

Shims can be replaced if this does not work.

 

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You really need to post this on one of the shotgun websites where people shoot sporting clays, skeet or trap.  SASS shotgun where we shoot at stationry targets that are only 15 feet away really has nothing to do with shotgun shooting sports.

 

Here is a video on a Benelli.  Not your model but it explains the shims.  Before you order new shims you need to know how to identify what you have so you can order one with more cast, drop, whatever you need.

 

 

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"You don't know what you don't know."
I didn't know ANYTHING about shimming a stock!

Closest to anything I've ever seen was when dear old Dad cut the comb down on a really nice double gun because he was shooting over clay birds (worked fine, he was deadly with that fine gun afterward!)

As usual, the OP benefitted more than himself by posting the question and harvesting answers ...

To one and all, my thanks!

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PLUS ONE to Pettifogger

 

CAS - SASS players run out of adjustment after changing the Toe angle for low, stationary targets.  Aerial targets are a whole 'nother game.  I must admit there was a time I played the Shotgun Games, but my guns were set up by military armorers.  All I had to do was shoot.  Ye Gads but that was FUN!!  Got to compete international Skeet all over Europe.  Times change (sigh)

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I don't have a dog in this fight... but do have to ask if the above pattern is from a reliable rest, or is this a consistent shooter pull to the left?

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7 hours ago, bgavin said:

I don't have a dog in this fight... but do have to ask if the above pattern is from a reliable rest, or is this a consistent shooter pull to the left?

I was shooting offhand as if at a clays station. The variance was consistent through every choke tube but most obvious visibly with the tighter choke.

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Charlie, are you a left handed shooter?

One of the best trap shooters I know, says he has a consistent pull to one side that is built into him.
He compensates by changing his point of aim.

My thoughts about shooting from a solid rest or mount is simply to remove the human element entirely.
Whatever is left over, is the gun itself.

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6 hours ago, Charlie Harley, #14153 said:

I was shooting offhand as if at a clays station. The variance was consistent through every choke tube but most obvious visibly with the tighter choke.

If you have no plans to change your technique I would just adjust your point of impact accordingly. Also some shooters prefer to “float” the bird rather than cover it as your gun would be more intended to do now . If this would be something you desire now is the time . 
If you are mounting the gun consistently your ahead of many other shooters , I’ve seen many clays shooters second guess themselves into a state of misery . I put on many adjustable combs and pads on for shooters over the years and then every time they had a bad day they would feel the need to tinker . Many got paralysis from analysis. 

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I'd be in real trouble shims. My right barrel shoots a about 2"-4" left and left barrel is 2"-4" low on my SxS at 8 yards! I don't seem to notice it anymore, must automatically compensate. I loaned it to a Pard who had the rib come apart on his and he noticed the first stage he shot. I forgot to mention it as it's been that way for 10 years of CAS.

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