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51 minutes ago, Dusty Morningwood said:

So, I started to clean factory oil and grease out of the gun this A.M. and noticed that the cylinder face seems to have carbon buildup from firing. It came out of a display with about ten Wranglers. Is this from factory test firing or did I get a returned gun?



The two I purchased earlier in the year also looked as though they had been fired. I was surprised they didn't at least clean it a little bit. The barrel was dirty as well. The other thing I noticed is that either lead has built up on the top strap by the barrel or the cerakote is burning off. I didn't want to use a brush on it yet for fear of chipping the cerokote. I've only put 25 rounds thru each so far just to test. Haven't shot since replacing the springs other than a couple shots to confirm function.

Edited by Eyesa Horg
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I have a friend who has a sports store and use to sell the Heritage.  The early ones had a soft firing pin which would mushroom and stop firing.  He couldn't get the replacement parts to fix the firearm, so he dropped the line.

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On 5/10/2021 at 6:23 PM, Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 said:

I have a detailed article I am working on for the Chronicle.  Took about 200 photos.  But this thread and one a few weeks ago has prompted me to put a short test on the wire.  The gun can be tuned to be super slick and I will go over how to do that in the article.  One problem is the sloppy fit between the base pin and base pin latch.  I handled several in a local store that got in a bunch of them a few weeks ago.  One I inspected would not cock.  About two minutes of inspection and the problem was discovered.  Here is a test for those buying them.  Push the base pin all the way to the rear.  Point the gun at the ground and slowly cock the hammer and watch the transfer bar.  It should go over the firing pin as shown in the first photo.  Now pull the base pin all the way forward and point the gun at the ground and slowly cock it.  (If you point the gun in the air gravity will hold the transfer bar back.)  If the transfer bar goes under the firing pin as shown in photo 2 the gun won't fully cock and I would reject the gun.  This is not an easy fix.  The problem is shown in photo 3.  The base pin latch either sits too low in the frame or does not travel far enough to the right.  The base pin has a circular groove in it.  The latch is round.  The further apart the groove and the latch are from each other the more play in the base pin.  All of the guns I inspected had quite a bit of play in the base pin.  I gave several the quickie test and picked one that passed.  When I started working on the gun there was another unexpected problem with the T Bar.  I'll go over that in the article.




Hey I learn every day here - went out to shoot my new model Ruger Bear cat that I have had problems with it jamming before, and low and behold- It is doing what is shown in picture 2 - Is there a cure? 

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Did a quick test fire yesterday. About 7 paces. Shoots a little high at that distance, but held a little low and last three on target.


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  • 2 weeks later...

My 2 cents on springs is; dont buy new springs until u do 7 or 8 hundred trigger pulls. I firered about 150 rounds trough mine when I got it a month or so ago. Super stiff.  But I have dry fired it about 25 times a night since then and they loosen up and are fine...after about 800 times!  Cheap easy and effective though. 

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