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How to anneal


Marshall Matt Dillon

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On 4/20/2021 at 4:55 AM, Sedalia Dave said:

 

Brass does not harden over time it gets harder the more it is worked. (bent, pulled compressed ect.) Working the brass changes its internal structure and making it stronger. When cases are manufactured a certain amount of work hardening is desired. This makes the brass strong enough to contain pressures of over 50,000 psi. 

You can over work brass making it so tough that is becomes brittle. this is what happens to the case mouth from contstant resizing and crimping.

 

When you heat brass to a certain temperature you allow the internal structure of the brass to relax and become less tough. The higher the temperature the faster this happens. You can anneal brass at temperatures as low as 600 degrees but it take hours. Temperatures over 775 degrees will permanently damage the alloy composition making it unsuitable for cartridge cases.

 

Unlike steel brass does not get harder when quenched. The primary reason brass is quenched during the annealing process is to prevent the base of the case from being annealed. You want to limit annealing to the case neck only on bottle neck cases and to the depth of a seated bullet in straight wall cases.

 

On 4/20/2021 at 5:01 AM, Sedalia Dave said:


Thank you Sedalia Dave. I appreciate it. 

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18 hours ago, Marshall Matt Dillon said:

How do you decide when the cases are needing annealed again?  2 to 3 shootings? Is there an indicator?  

My thought process has always been, when I start seeing split cases, if I can figure out what batch of cases that's from, I'll anneal those.  I only load .357 Mags and haven't had to worry about black powder blow by so far so I haven't bothered.  I had a 300 BO for a little while, but not long enough to make a difference for annealing the brass.

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I anneal my .45C every time and I’ve never had a problem. I think as long as you don’t overheat the brass it doesn’t hurt it, like I said 2 years now and haven’t had an issue. 

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