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Is Sliphammer rough on revolver actions?


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Does the slip hammer style of shooting (Holding the trigger down and using thumb to release the cocked hammer) cause any damage or increase the chance of failure on Uberti revolvers? 

 

I'm particularly interested in the effect on the new floating firing pin models.  The trigger has that arm that holds the pin in the hammer, and I'm wondering if that causes wear or bends if the trigger is held down while cocking the gun.

 

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I don’t know if it is any harder on them or not...but I personally do not like the safety firing pin. I will be selling my Uberti revolvers before long. Have switched to Rugers. Had bad luck with the one that does have the safety firing pin. It is now shimmed to make it a solid pin. In the middle of a state match...the firing pin quit coming out far enough to set of a round. Went around about four times. Done with that setup. And mine are short stroked...so they do not have the four click parts to convert them.

Edited by Old Man Graybeard
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I have a set of them and it works okay, but the first one I got must have been made by an Italian with covid because the plunger had a burr on it and jammed.   I had a gunsmith friend fix it, but it’s an easy fix knowing what to do today.  It also had the legs on the bolt just overlong enough that it hit the safety plunger giving the trigger a funny hitch, and sending the bolt out of time.  I few light passes with the file and a polishing stone on the legs fixed the interference issue and the hitch.   
the newer Uberti made this year, needs the safety pin pulled and polished.   I can feel it rubbing inside the hammer as I pull the trigger.  I’ll do this when I do a thorough takedown cleaning.  
As far as the funky trigger assembly goes, I don’t see any undue wear on the tip of the trigger or plunger where they rub together though.   
Cancelling the safety takes some 5/16” hardened steel drill rod and some filing and fitting to get rid of it, if you want to do that.   I started doing that, but found that the timing and hammer issues was the bolt, and also the bolt/ sear spring so I put it all back in once again. 
Last,  the reduced power wire bolt/ sear springs don’t work great when trying to shoot single action and not slip hammering.   So use a flat spring.  

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I don't personally have any real world experience with the "New and Improved" (gag, choke, puke) retractable.  But running the gun hard for "Sliphammer" ain't real good for the locking bolt or slots.

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Probably less wear on the internals.

Your bypassing the sear and trigger mechanism. Doubt slip hammering will wear anything prematurely. I wouldn't try that method on small knockdown targets. 

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I had trouble with my Shortstroke Uberti's with over cocking.

While I don't slip hammer I could always get the gun to replicate the error by slip hammering for the gun store guy to show him what it was doing.

 

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11 hours ago, Assassin said:

Probably less wear on the internals.

Your bypassing the sear and trigger mechanism. Doubt slip hammering will wear anything prematurely. I wouldn't try that method on small knockdown targets. 

 

Don't know for sure but this^ is what I'm figuring. 

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Doesn't seem to be an issue with my Ruger Vaqueros with the transfer bar still in it from the factory.

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