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Any one use steel targets that have a hole in them that a hanger goes through. If so, how have they worked for you? Any problems with splash back.

 

Our targets have a hanger welded on the back of the target and the hangers break over time. Looking for a better solution.

 

Silver Rings

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I make stands out of 5/8" rebar and weld a 3/8" diameter muffler clamp to hang our targets. All of our targets have a 1/2" hole in them and have not noticed any more splash than the other clubs I shoot at. Simple design, easy to make . 

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26 minutes ago, Silver Rings SASS # 27466 said:

Here is an example of something like I talking about.

https://shootingtargets7.com/products/steel-challenge-accelerator

I use targets like those at home & mount them with carriage bolts. Works fine.

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We use AR500 targets like that for cowboy and also steel challenge (much hotter ammo and jacketed).  We get occasional splash back, and it might be from a hit right next to the hook, but better than what we experienced for years with mild steel targets hanging from hooks on the back.  

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This is what we use.  The advantage is we can put enough targets and stands for 12 stages on a trailer and move it from stage to stage during setup and tear down.  Cheap, too.  The cleats on the feet keep them from tipping over under warthog usage.  The little foot on the back leg keeps them from sinking into soft earth.

 

We are a little far down the road to change now.  If you already have targets with rear hangers, I would work on fixing them, not going to the holes.

 

 

target.JPG

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Ours are very much like Chancy Shot's. Haven't had any problem with splash back. There is a little give to them when hit reducing the bullet energy a little and reducing the bounce back.

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I have made several of all types.  If drilling the hole, I drill 5/8 - 3/4 inch holes.  If you make too small a hole it is difficult to get the targets back off if they are the hanger type..  I use machine bolts or carriage bolts that the head is larger than the hole for ones hung with bolts.  If you want a lean to the target, the angle iron welded to the back is the easiest way.

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Ours are similar to the one posted by Chancy Shot above.  The hook on ours is a bit smaller and we also have a smaller hole drilled into the bottom.  A steel length of wire goes through the bottom hole and holds the target at the proper 20 degree angle.  No trouble with back splash off of them if they are placed at the correct distances.

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We had 5 buffalos and 5 cowboys made by a popular target maker that no one wanted to use because the stands were bulky, awkward and heavy. The targets had flanges welded to the back for bolting on to the stands; we never used em. When the whole nonsense started last year, I took them home and in my lockdown time, I angle ground the flanges off, had a local welding shop plasma cut some square holes in them, some carriage bolts and locking nuts and they slip right onto our regular "fork-top" stands. The carriage bolts have the domed heads so, less splash back than regular hex heads or other types of mounts. If ya leave a little space on the bolt, we get a nice ring. You can leave the bolts/nuts on or take em off. They work great!

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9 hours ago, The Rainmaker, SASS #11631 said:

We had 5 buffalos and 5 cowboys made by a popular target maker that no one wanted to use because the stands were bulky, awkward and heavy. The targets had flanges welded to the back for bolting on to the stands; we never used em. When the whole nonsense started last year, I took them home and in my lockdown time, I angle ground the flanges off, had a local welding shop plasma cut some square holes in them, some carriage bolts and locking nuts and they slip right onto our regular "fork-top" stands. The carriage bolts have the domed heads so, less splash back than regular hex heads or other types of mounts. If ya leave a little space on the bolt, we get a nice ring. You can leave the bolts/nuts on or take em off. They work great!

When I make the bolt on targets I put a coiled spring (compression spring) between the stand and the target.  That allows some give and still has the ring when hit.

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17 hours ago, Silver Rings SASS # 27466 said:

Any one use steel targets that have a hole in them that a hanger goes through. If so, how have they worked for you? Any problems with splash back.

 

Our targets have a hanger welded on the back of the target and the hangers break over time. Looking for a better solution.

 

Silver Rings

We have MANY of them. Use to have targets with hangers but did away with that system. The secret to hanging targets is to make sure they have plenty of free space to swing back when hit. Don't use rebar for stands either. A cross bar to limit left and right movement helps too. Just make sure they csn swing back.

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19 hours ago, Chancy Shot, SASS #67163 said:

This is what we use.  The advantage is we can put enough targets and stands for 12 stages on a trailer and move it from stage to stage during setup and tear down.  Cheap, too.  The cleats on the feet keep them from tipping over under warthog usage.  The little foot on the back leg keeps them from sinking into soft earth.

 

We are a little far down the road to change now.  If you already have targets with rear hangers, I would work on fixing them, not going to the holes.

 

 

target.JPG

 

I have made similar stands to this one, but I have the base turned around toward the back.  The hits do not cause the stand to topple and I don't need the long nails to hold it in place.  Plus, I use hot rolled steel which is smooth, not rebar.  Rebar is cheaper and could be used for the bottom wrap around support.

 

 

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Howdy Silver Rings, luckily our club has allowed us to have plenty of targets from the three major suppliers. The very best design is from Arntzen Targets. We have since cut drilled and wielded all our targets to this type of hanger. I can honestly say I cannot remember the last time we had any splatter from our targets. Arntzen has retired and now Made Targets carry all of his products, the best targets and stands IMHO. He still had some sheet steel and videos on his site. Good Luck:)

Target Stand - Folding Target Stands | Arntzen Targets (madetargets.com)

Arntzentargets.com 

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Try this, 4x4 upright. Drill hole for tight fit of rebar, slightly angled up and at desired height. Base is 4 2x4s crossed to form a friction fit for 4x4. Length of 2x4s equals what works.  Use and 1 or 2 inch piece of old water hose to offset target, on rebar, so the steel will ring when hit. I'd suggest using the CCA replacement type wood for construction, that way they can be stacked outside on the ground.

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